: Replaced my turn signal switch today.



turbojimmy
05-27-11, 02:52 PM
Pray that you don't have to do this.

My car hasn't had hazard flashers since I got it. After narrowing it down to the switch, I picked up a CarQuest 53-58723 part locally. Despite the catalog saying it's correct for 1994-1996 Fleetwoods, it is wrong. Don't buy it. I'll explain later.

If you have the misfortune of having to do this job, be aware of the following:

1) You will need a steering wheel puller.

2) You will need a compressor to compress the steering wheel lock plate.

3) Mark where the airbag coil is positioned before you remove it.

4) When the manual says to "gently pull the wiring harness through the column" they mean "gently pull on the wiring harness and it will move .005 inches, at which point you will have to pull really hard and the connector will get caught on everything imaginable on the way up". the manual fails to mention that there's a nifty little "wire protector" in between the base of the column and the tilt portion of the column. You cannot remove the wiring harness with this in the way. Despite what the manual says, you need to take the 3 bolts out and separate the tilt portion from the base of the column. All sorts of things will fall out, some big, some small. Some plastic, some metal. Some slathered in grease, some not. It's like a jigsaw puzzle to reassemble.

Oh yeah, the CarQuest piece of crap. The factory switch looks like this:

http://turbojimmy.4t.com/turn_signal_switch.jpg

The CarQuest part is missing the hole on the bottom to secure the turn signal lever to the switch. I didn't notice til I was done, so I just secured it with the one bolt. It will loosen up, and I will then need to spend the money again for the correct part. Bastages.


I got it all put back together eventually. My hazards do work now, but my steering wheel lock does not. There's no way in hell I'm taking this thing back apart today, but it's going to bug me unless I fix it soon.

After this job, I'm actually looking forward to replacing the distributor cap.

MoistCabbage
05-27-11, 03:13 PM
Yeah, those columns aren't exactly fun to work on.


4) When the manual says to "gently pull the wiring harness through the column" they mean "gently pull on the wiring harness and it will move .005 inches, at which point you will have to pull really hard and the connector will get caught on everything imaginable on the way up". the manual fails to mention that there's a nifty little "wire protector" in between the base of the column and the tilt portion of the column. You cannot remove the wiring harness with this in the way. Despite what the manual says, you need to take the 3 bolts out and separate the tilt portion from the base of the column. All sorts of things will fall out, some big, some small. Some plastic, some metal. Some slathered in grease, some not. It's like a jigsaw puzzle to reassemble.

Very accurate description.:yup:

turbojimmy
06-03-11, 10:54 PM
For the record, I corrected the steering wheel lock problem today. It requires tearing the whole thing back down to the base of the column again (removing the tilt portion of the column). So here's the deal....

If you ever remove the tilt portion of the column for any reason, two things will happen:
- the high beam mechanism will fall apart
- the spring for the steering wheel lock will pop out of the pawl

I put the high beam mechanism back together, but failed to notice the spring for the steering wheel lock had popped out of the pawl. When this happens, the lock pin does not engage when you turn off the key. During reassembly, make sure the spring is inserted into the pawl that operates the ignition switch. When you turn the key off the pawl rotates counter-clockwise, applies pressure to the spring and the lock rod pin pops out. There's a fairly decent picture of it in the service manual that I chose to ignore until I became frustrated enough to crack open the book hours later.

Upon bolting the tilt assembly back onto the column, and before doing anything else, operate both the high beam lever and the ignition switch to make sure that both are working. When you shut off the ignition switch the lock pin should pop out about 3/8".

If you have the misfortune of doing this job, you'll see what I mean :-)

Cadillacboy
06-04-11, 04:27 PM
You must be a skillful DIYer , kudos to you .
:highfive: