: Rear clunking/ knock from suspension?



9ine3reefleet
05-06-11, 08:51 AM
Whats up guys,

This morning on my way to work (not highway, city route) I heard a very annoying clunking/ kncoking noise coming from the passenger side rear especially when going over a bump or while turning. My front wheel does when that when making sharp left turns but i know what that is and the knocks were not that "violent" sounding, yet loud enough for me to hear it through my favorite song and make me turn it off to investigate.

Thanks in advance for any insight folks.

deVille33
05-07-11, 04:47 PM
Sounds like your tailpipe hanger strap broke.

9ine3reefleet
05-08-11, 07:22 PM
Thanks deville for the response but I wish that was the problem. Doing my research, that was other peoples problems too but I checked today and the tailpipe was stiffer than ever. I jacked it up the other day and everything looked o.k. as far as suspension goes but then again I dont know exactly know what I was looking for. "Just something outta" place I guess. I bounced on the car and it wont make the sound so I wanted to jack it up and rotate the tire but didnt because I thought shifting to neutral would release the e-brake (I was in a rush) but when I let it down I realized that if I shift it quickly to neutral then it wont, so im gonna give it another go probably tomorrow. The thing about it is that the noise is not consistent enough (e.g. didnt hear it today and dont hear it on highway at all).

92 brougham
05-08-11, 08:49 PM
Check your stabilizer links . The noise might sound like it's from the back but really in front

csbuckn
05-09-11, 12:09 AM
Rear axle? Lift the car up again and move the tire up and down, kinda like as if it was hitting a bump, if it moves up and down, its the rear axle bearings. Some in and out is normal but you should have no up and down.

9ine3reefleet
05-09-11, 08:10 AM
Brougham, I cut off all music and let my windows down to listen this morn and I am pretty sure its the rear. HOWEVER, I'll look at it today. Did my research on stabalizer bars, its pretty much a sway bar but in the front right? I am looking for connected parts that are broken right?

9ine3reefleet
05-09-11, 08:30 AM
Csbuckn, and all others too. When I lifted the car it SEEMED to haved to be lifted a little further than usual. I use the hydraulic pump jack and though its jacked very high the tire is barely off the ground. I admit that I am "scared" to lift any higher. How much arm strength should be used to lift that type jack? maybe I am paranoid. Also how much force should I use to attempt to move tire up and down? I dont want to move the car too much while jacked up (paranoid again)?

BTW, I heard it this morn too. It usually kicks in about 20-25 mins into my 45-50 min commute.

Thanks for the feedback thus far.

9ine3reefleet
05-09-11, 09:11 AM
I dont want to move the car too much while jacked up (paranoid again)?

To ease my own paranoia, JACK STANDS.

92 brougham
05-09-11, 01:11 PM
Brougham, I cut off all music and let my windows down to listen this morn and I am pretty sure its the rear. HOWEVER, I'll look at it today. Did my research on stabalizer bars, its pretty much a sway bar but in the front right? I am looking for connected parts that are broken right?

Yeah sway bar in the front...check the 2 end links and the bar itself . Check what csbuckn said about the rear end . Also check out the drive shaft universal joints they'll make noise when they're bad .

9ine3reefleet
05-25-11, 03:24 PM
**Update**
Thought the sound was coming from the rear. Perhaps not. I took my car to Tires Plus to get an alignment this morn and had to have a u joint and center link replaced- $600. I had to have them SHOW me why and they did. While up in the air, he had me move the tires from side-to-side oin car and I saw how loose they were. I wasnt going to have them do it but I qualified for their Credit card and it paid for it. 0% intrerst for six months do a hundred a month should do it. I'm hoping this is where the sound was coing from because I didnt hear it anymore. however, it was close to home so ill wait til i go to work tomorrow and if I dont hear it tomorrow then Ill know for sure thats what it was.

deVille33
05-25-11, 09:43 PM
U-Joint can cause a clunk, usually with a change in in force on / off the acellerator or by shifting from forward to reverse. The tech should have illustrated that to you. Center link is more appartent in the steering manner of the car. A worn center link will have you working the wheel to correct steering direction and the car will have a odd feel in cornering.

9ine3reefleet
05-26-11, 12:00 AM
U-Joint can cause a clunk, usually with a change in in force on / off the acellerator or by shifting from forward to reverse. The tech should have illustrated that to you. Center link is more appartent in the steering manner of the car. A worn center link will have you working the wheel to correct steering direction and the car will have a odd feel in cornering.

Yea my steering wheel is way stiffer than it was, not necessarily a bad thing but I was used to the "free" wheel I had before. I miss it. Feels like I am driving my fiance's Honda. The ride is much better, but i def realize that I need a balance though as the car will veer to the right.

9ine3reefleet
05-26-11, 01:07 AM
**Update**
Thought the sound was coming from the rear. Perhaps not. I took my car to Tires Plus to get an alignment this morn and had to have a u joint and center link replaced- $600.

O.K. its 1 in th a.m. where I am at and I am doing some investigator work because this Tires Plus thing has been eating at me all day. First of all its the idler arm not the u-joint. Sorry. Looking at my receipt I see an 1 idler arm @ 83.72 and 1 center link @ 244.92. Part #'s k6187t and ds1116, respectively, come up as Moog manufactured parts--are those o.k.? I saw the Napa guy come to the shop with the parts so I searched napa and saw the same center link on their site for 58.99. WTH!! Searched for idler arm too but to no avail. However a web search showed the highest price which was 46.99. I feel so stupid. I knew I hated them for some reason. Every customer who came had something "extra" that needed to be taken care of before what they actually came in for could be done. I also heard the salesman tell someone that "we are down 73 cars" which is further motive to treat customers this way. I really have to get my auto-knowledge-game up and just start doing things myself, or at least know how much stuff costs. I am calling them in the morning just to get them to tell me exactly where there parts come from so when I call the customer service line they dont give me the run-around about prices. I am so pissed and feel violated.

HUF
05-26-11, 07:12 AM
O.K. its 1 in th a.m. where I am at and I am doing some investigator work because this Tires Plus thing has been eating at me all day. First of all its the idler arm not the u-joint. Sorry. Looking at my receipt I see an 1 idler arm @ 83.72 and 1 center link @ 244.92. Part #'s k6187t and ds1116, respectively, come up as Moog manufactured parts--are those o.k.? I saw the Napa guy come to the shop with the parts so I searched napa and saw the same center link on their site for 58.99. WTH!! Searched for idler arm too but to no avail. However a web search showed the highest price which was 46.99. I feel so stupid. I knew I hated them for some reason. Every customer who came had something "extra" that needed to be taken care of before what they actually came in for could be done. I also heard the salesman tell someone that "we are down 73 cars" which is further motive to treat customers this way. I really have to get my auto-knowledge-game up and just start doing things myself, or at least know how much stuff costs. I am calling them in the morning just to get them to tell me exactly where there parts come from so when I call the customer service line they dont give me the run-around about prices. I am so pissed and feel violated.

Moog is good. Their center link is $92.79 and the idler arm is $30.99 at rockauto.com. Shops get parts for less, by the way.

HUF
05-26-11, 07:15 AM
U-Joint can cause a clunk, usually with a change in in force on / off the acellerator or by shifting from forward to reverse. The tech should have illustrated that to you. Center link is more appartent in the steering manner of the car. A worn center link will have you working the wheel to correct steering direction and the car will have a odd feel in cornering.
I have got very poor steering wheel returnability. What could be the problem? This is my first RWD so things are still new to me. Sorry, if this is off-topic.

deVille33
05-26-11, 08:52 PM
I take it you mean your steering wheel returning to center unassisted? Does the problem persist in both directions right and left?
The power unit may need some assist on sharp corners, like a push to start it in motion toward center, but if you have to crank it all the way, it maybe the flow valve inside the pump unit has debris caught in it. If it is more in one direction, you may have a pressure hose interior failure.
Jack the front of the car off the ground and up on jack stands. Remove the return hose from the pump and put it into a catch pan. Start the engine and turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock. If you see chunks of rubber in the fluid, it's time to buy a new pressure hose. Filter your fluid and you can reuse it or if you wish replace with new. Use steering fluid, not ATF.

HUF
05-26-11, 09:01 PM
I take it you mean your steering wheel returning to center unassisted? Does the problem persist in both directions right and left?
The power unit may need some assist on sharp corners, like a push to start it in motion toward center, but if you have to crank it all the way, it maybe the flow valve inside the pump unit has debris caught in it. If it is more in one direction, you may have a pressure hose interior failure.
Jack the front of the car off the ground and up on jack stands. Remove the return hose from the pump and put it into a catch pan. Start the engine and turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock. If you see chunks of rubber in the fluid, it's time to buy a new pressure hose. Filter your fluid and you can reuse it or if you wish replace with new. Use steering fluid, not ATF.
It feels as if a tensioner on the gear is overtightened despite I never touched it. The steering wheel just does not return to center position when I finalize a turn (no matter what direction). Anything else besides debris in powersteering system that could cause the symptom?

jayoldschool
05-26-11, 09:11 PM
Steering return is a function of caster angle. You need more.

HUF
05-26-11, 09:14 PM
Steering return is a function of caster angle. You need more.
Thanks, Jay. That's what I was thinking too, sounds more like a mechanical problem. Will check the alignment. Too bad I cannot do that myself... Arghh... hate to take my car to a shop...

deVille33
05-26-11, 09:14 PM
O.K. its 1 in th a.m. where I am at and I am doing some investigator work because this Tires Plus thing has been eating at me all day. First of all its the idler arm not the u-joint. Sorry. Looking at my receipt I see an 1 idler arm @ 83.72 and 1 center link @ 244.92. Part #'s k6187t and ds1116, respectively, come up as Moog manufactured parts--are those o.k.? I saw the Napa guy come to the shop with the parts so I searched napa and saw the same center link on their site for 58.99. WTH!! Searched for idler arm too but to no avail. However a web search showed the highest price which was 46.99. I feel so stupid. I knew I hated them for some reason. Every customer who came had something "extra" that needed to be taken care of before what they actually came in for could be done. I also heard the salesman tell someone that "we are down 73 cars" which is further motive to treat customers this way. I really have to get my auto-knowledge-game up and just start doing things myself, or at least know how much stuff costs. I am calling them in the morning just to get them to tell me exactly where there parts come from so when I call the customer service line they dont give me the run-around about prices. I am so pissed and feel violated.

If you only needed the idler, they took you to the cleaners on the center link. Moog is a good quality product line, but not usually sold through NAPA in Moog packaging. You will pay more for a Moog product, but for $245.00 they wrote in a very good mark-up.
You need to buy some equiptment and learn how to use it. Some GOOD jack stands will aid you so that you may explore your car more safely and try to learn about the mechanical aspects of the different parts and how they work and how to maintain them.
Several people here would be glad to describe proceedures and priciples to help you gain mechanical and technical knowledge. With a few tools you could have done this job yourself in less than 3 hours.

9ine3reefleet
05-27-11, 09:39 AM
Deville, yea they got me. I called back to the shop and a tech picked up tellin me the salesman wasnt there. After i told him tht the prices were stupid high he went on to tell me tht their prices are like dealership prices...WOW?!? Really? Live and learn. They hav FOREVER lost a customer. I will def start doing things myself. F-up or not im doing it.