: '96 STS starting trouble & heat only on right side



jolley@5
04-26-11, 02:43 AM
Hello, bought my dad this car seemed like a great deal at the time (one month ago). The biggest problem is when starting, it cranks and cranks before turning over. Once running it has a hint of rough idol to it. Took it to a shop and they told me it was the fuel pump, so a few hundred dollars later it has a new pump and still does the same thing. Now they say its the fuel injectors. Any ideas from your experiences?

The next issue is it was blowing cold air even on max heat, so they told me the freon was out. Another hundred dollars, now it only blows some what heat from the right side. So they told me it must the blend door behind the dash and it was a 14 hours of labor at $95 and hour!

Can't afford their guessing anymore so I turned here and found it to be very helpful. I pulled the codes like you all suggest to others, was able to find some of the meanings. Hope someone can help with the rest.
PC0603 = memory loss
IP1552 = loss of Kam
AC1340
PZ1558 = PZM EEPROM check sum error
PZ1972
PZ2473

Any help/advice would be great and so helpful.
Thanks Landy

Ranger
04-26-11, 10:36 AM
'96 was the transition year to OBDII. Any codes not found in OBDII http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html will be found in OBDI http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

For the rough idle, check for a leaky FPR and Clean the TB for starters.

As for the heat issue, I too would suspect a blend door actuator and you should find a code for that. I suspect the B1340 code you listed.

Lastly, and most importantly, any shop that suggests that low refrigerant is the cause of a lack of heat is either stringing you along, trolling or just plain incompetent. FIND ANOTHER SHOP!

89falcon
04-26-11, 06:28 PM
hard start....rough idle....problems with vacuum operated valves.....

Vacuum leak?

jolley@5
04-27-11, 02:57 AM
Thanks Ranger & Falcon for the input. I didn't make any headway today busy working on the CTS thats also dying on me. I did check price and availability on the FPR and found out they made a stainless and a nylon one. By chance do you know how to tell which this car has? They have to order the stainless so hopefully it's the plastic one. I discovered that if I turn the key over and wait 45 seconds before starting it seemed to start much nicer. Do you think it could still be the injectors on top of the FPR? I'm holding hope that this will be only the regulator. I have to go get a manual for the CTS tomorrow so I will get one for this car too. Then I will be able to pull the TB and get that cleaned out like you suggested. Found most of the codes off the link you put up, very helpful thanks.

DevilleDan
04-27-11, 05:02 AM
This thread caught my attention because I have a 1997 Eldorado here doing same engine starting thing. I almost drain the battery getting it to start and then it idles rough but starts fine all day until it sits again. Dont panic, but I was already TOLD this car overheats so I assume I have coolant in the wrong place at the wrong time. I am sure that is not case with your car or a 95.00 an hour shop that knows anything about Cadillacs of this vintage would be doing other tests for head problem symptoms and other tests before just throwing costly parts at it.

As far as the heat issue, as Ranger was more polite about, the shop blaming your a/c charge on no heat is completely incompetent. Even further, I think you have been had big time on that climate ACTUATOR. (electronic motor with an arm) It is a VERY common problem for the LH or RH actuator to go bad on these cars and they are both very easily changed in MINUTES from under passenger side of dash or behind glove box. (especially the one that controls heat for drivers side) Both actuators are same part number and you can swap from one to another to test them before buying another. Since I can change them so easy, I go with used ones and avoid paying the higher prices for new ones.

Yes, the BLEND DOOR is a much larger job and would require removing dash and console, etc BUT that is just a metal MECHANICAL flap and unless it suffered severe physical damage it could not go bad. The little electronic actuator simply pulls or pushes it for hot or cold and is very common to go bad. Also there are other little vacum servos buried way up in there but they only affect the airflow modes.

When one of these cars suffers a hot one side / cold the other it is almost always going to be one of those little actuator motors or the metal box called the programmer, or a climate control. Too late now, but hopefully this helps other people in future searching for answers. Ok, I vented enough here, but PLEASE, find a different shop LOL

Ranger
04-27-11, 12:02 PM
Jolley, the fuel rail is black nylon, but there was a recall for the '95 - '97's. They where changed to stainless steel. Just lift the beauty cover and see what you have. There is no difference in the FPR's, only the retaining clip.

jolley@5
04-27-11, 05:52 PM
Just put the new FPR in and voila it started right up!! Even let it sit for about two hours and still no problems!! And it was super easy like the post here said it was. Course buying the manual was a what made it so easy. Not bad for a girl wanna-be mechanic! Hope this is helpful Dan. Ranger, I called and that recall was done May 2006. Thanks for checking that out, you are super cool!! Yes the new clip caught me off gaurd, I ended up using the factory clip since the new one wouldn't fit. Now off to takle the heat blend door thing :( I wrote down everyones advice on this and heading out, stay tuned........

jolley@5
04-27-11, 09:01 PM
Hot digity dog there is heat on the driver side!! You were right Dan, it was the lower actuator on that black box underneath the passenger side. Once I poped it off and pushed in the arm/bar, the heat started. So nice since it's a very cold spring here in WA. Now I need to get a new one, you suggested used and I will check the wrecking yards. But I don't know the proper name for it. I will call the dealer for a price on it just in case I can't find it anywhere else. Thanks guys for all your help, fixing these two things made such a big difference.

Ranger
04-27-11, 09:40 PM
Hot digity dog there is heat on the driver side!! You were right Dan, it was the lower actuator on that black box underneath the passenger side. Once I poped it off and pushed in the arm/bar, the heat started. So nice since it's a very cold spring here in WA. Now I need to get a new one, you suggested used and I will check the wrecking yards. But I don't know the proper name for it. I will call the dealer for a price on it just in case I can't find it anywhere else. Thanks guys for all your help, fixing these two things made such a big difference.

Part #34 might be what you are looking for.
http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=1996&artnbr=6M09-053&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=65O&modelcode=K&makecode=K&modelseries=EA&uid=1&modelid=1147577584&capuid=1&majorgroup=09&grouptype=B

RippyPartsDept
04-27-11, 10:02 PM
i would call that a clip or something like that just by looking at the illustration....

if you want to PM me your VIN i'll get back to you tomorrow with the specifics

jolley@5
04-27-11, 11:35 PM
Thanks Rippy but I'm a newbie so I can't PM yet. That does look like it Mr Ranger. I called the dealer and it's called Temp Valve Actuator part # 16180230 and sells for $190.48!!! ACDelco has them part # 15-72215 for around $102 with free shipping. Found a dude on Ebay has 10 of them at $28 w/ $6 for shipping and a good feedback score. Think I may go that route, what do you guys think?

Ranger
04-27-11, 11:41 PM
I'd go for it.

You can also try Rippy, rockauto, gmotors, gmapartsgiant or Amazon just to name a few. but you won't beat that Ebay price.

RippyPartsDept
04-28-11, 01:49 AM
i'm pretty sure 10 posts is the requirement for PM privileges ... try it

jolley@5
04-30-11, 12:36 AM
I went ahead and got the one off ebay. But I have another part I will contact you about very soon. Still trying to figure out what it is, some kind of solenoid. Thanks and talk to you soon Rippy.

DevilleDan
05-02-11, 12:26 AM
Keep us posted on your repair. Ebay is the way to go for these. Once you learn how easy they are to change you wont mind spending 30 dollars and do it yourself now and then if you keep car long enough. If in future you ever need to change the top one for the passenger side, the trick is to remove the two screws for the heater core cover and drop it down to access the two small screws for the upper acuator. Once again, I dont want to put salt in old wounds, but I dont see what this shop could of done, if anything but run up a high bill.

Some of the climate parts you may of noticed on eBay were offered for sale by me, but I just sold the last individual actuator last week. I also recently put together a few climate "kits" that include one of these actuators plus a few other common parts that save people time and money by buying all common to fail climate parts at one time instead of separate. As a newbie also, I dont feel comfortable steering people directly to my ebay store or saying the name of it in a thread so I dont. The important thing is that you were able to get the solution to your problem here at the forum and it sounds like you can easily do this repair yourself. A 5.5 metric socket or 7/32 standard socket should remove this in about a minute! :)

jolley@5
05-16-11, 12:47 PM
*****UPDATE*****
The car is running great....still!! Heat from both sides and starts everytime. So anyone coming on here looking to fix your problems here is a recap.
Fuel pressure regulator (don't start with the fuel pump lol) buy the repair book around $30 it will pay for itself the first time you use it!
Blower door actuator, easy to get to just lay upside down under the dash and have someone change all the settings on the fan and see which one isn't moving!
This site is awesome! I am very thankful to have found it and thankful for all you guys willing to help a complete stranger!
Ranger, DevillDan, RippyPartsDept, & 89Falcon you guys ROCK!!

RippyPartsDept
05-16-11, 01:23 PM
thanks for the follow up ... good to know what worked and hear a success story!

many people don't come back to let us know if their problem was solved or not