: Drivers Door Micro Switch Replacement "How-To" Part 2



Neutrocuted
04-24-11, 09:56 PM
If you are looking for the beginning of this "how-to" CLICK HERE! (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/228338-drivers-door-micro-switch-replacement-how.html)

3. Remove the outside handle.

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020601a.jpg
Pop open the yellow linkage connector inside the door that goes from the key lock to the latch. It is far easier to do this while the housing is still screwed to the door.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020608a.jpg
The yellow linkage connector spins so make sure that the latch is spun towards you when you re-connect it for easy access should you have to disconnect it again. Disconnect the antenna wires from the housing. It is a connector that is clipped to the housing itself.
Also notice that I had just washed my car before this repair and notice the water inside the door. That’s why you don’t want to rip the rain shield.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020579.jpg
Remove the black plug to access the angled torx screw that holds the key tumbler cover on (no pic of the plug). You will need to pull the outside door handle slightly to get it off.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020550.jpg
DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW FROM THE HOUSING. Screw it only far enough to get the housing off, that’s it.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020539.jpg
If you look at the housing picture on the box you will see the angled torx screw and hopefully understand why it’s on an angle and how to get to it.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020609-1.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020591.jpg
To remove the outside door handle you need to pull the handle outward half way, reach inside and hold the spring load by the black counterweight at the top, move the handle back flush with the door (unsprung), slide the handle rearward then out.
For future reference, IT DOES NOT REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY! If you try to reassemble the same way you will break off the switch tips, requiring another housing! (don’t ask how I know)
4. Remove the housing

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020592.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020599.jpg
Once the handle is off the only thing holding the housing to the door is the outer torx screw. Remove the second screw completely. Hold the housing from the inside to keep it from falling down inside the door.
The housing itself should not be defective (unless it is physically broken) so even though you bought the whole “Housing K” assy. does not mean you have to replace the whole thing.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020553.jpg
Just switch out the micro switches. They snap out easily. The key tumbler locking pin is a real mother to get off and back on again. (don’t ask how I know)
5. Practice re-assembly!

After it is disassembled, install the outside door handle into the housing with the old micro switches still in place as if it were on the door, to get a feel and to see how it re-assembles. Re-assembly consists of inserting the outer door handle into the forward and rearward slots of the housing, in the rearward position of the housing, flush with the housing, then snapping the handle forward. You do not need to hold the spring action counterweight to do this. The outside handle actually has a cam on it that will make the spring lever pop into position and will not touch the micro switches. Be sure to use enough white grease everywhere, that will assure smooth operation between the plastic-on-plastic action that occurs on every door opening, as you will see while you play with the 2 pieces.
6. Reassembly

This is done in reverse of the disassembly process except for the outer handle installation.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020588.jpg
Also, when replacing the key tumbler cover you will need to apply a lot of force to the cover and apply a lot of force to the torx driver while turning the driver, otherwise the screw will miss the threaded hole of the cover.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/neutrocuted/P1020585.jpg
Notice that the key tumbler is flush against the hole after it is tightened up.
Don’t forget to reinstall the black hole plug!
I hope this helps. Any additional tips are welcome. GOOD LUCK!

ddalder
04-24-11, 10:36 PM
Nice work!

One thing I did with my antenna upgrade "How-To" was to add the link for Part 2 and the bottom of Part 1, and the link for Part 1 at the top of Part 2. Just made it a little easier for searching :)

Neutrocuted
04-24-11, 11:52 PM
That's a great idea! Done!

Neutrocuted
04-25-11, 06:36 AM
Thanks for the compliment!

It really took a lot of time to try and get it all organized. I had no idea on how much.

I'm going to change my cabin filter again soon and was thinking of doing one for that.

whiseboy@hotmail.com
04-25-11, 02:54 PM
what where the symptoms of this problem. The problem we are having is the doors won't open from the outside yet the open from the latch on the inside.

chazglenn3
04-25-11, 03:43 PM
Thanks for the compliment!
I'm going to change my cabin filter again soon and was thinking of doing one for that.

That would be most helpful if you figure out a good method. I think removing the hood strut so the hood can lay back against the windshield would make things easier, but I haven't tried it yet...just a suggestion :)

Neutrocuted
04-25-11, 10:17 PM
what where the symptoms of this problem. The problem we are having is the doors won't open from the outside yet the open from the latch on the inside.

That is pretty much it. If the door doesn't open from the outside it could be the switches... but it could be something else also. That's why I suggest testing the switches. But when you say doors, as in both or all, that might be something else. How do you gain entry now?

Neutrocuted
04-25-11, 10:21 PM
That would be most helpful if you figure out a good method. I think removing the hood strut so the hood can lay back against the windshield would make things easier, but I haven't tried it yet...just a suggestion :)

When I changed it before my biggest problem was getting it around the non-movable retain hooks without destroying it. I don't remember the hood getting in the way, but I'll pay closer attention to that to see if disconnecting it will make access easier. I am about easier!

whiseboy@hotmail.com
04-29-11, 05:36 PM
Basically it's the front doors, the back doors are working fine. we are going to check the switches now but are also going to check the wiring harness as well. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, what's the best way to test the switches?

Neutrocuted
04-30-11, 06:16 AM
Check out part 1. I have a link to it at the beginning of part 2. I explained how I checked the switches there. Let me know how you make out!

Good Luck!

1BadCadSTS
05-03-11, 05:09 PM
do you happen to have the part number?

Neutrocuted
05-04-11, 12:15 AM
The drivers door is 19120306, passenger door is 19120307.

jaymevb
05-11-11, 11:28 AM
could you go into more detail about how you checked the switches? i'm not sure what a continuity tester is or how exactly you tested them.

KRSTS
05-11-11, 01:47 PM
If you dont know what a continuity tester is, then I recommend you NOT try to repair this:halo:

jaymevb
05-11-11, 04:24 PM
if you don't have something useful to contribute, i recommend not typing anything :p

ddalder
05-11-11, 09:40 PM
if you don't have something useful to contribute, i recommend not typing anything :p
I don't want to seem negative, but I agreee with KRSTS. The reality is, there are some complex systems in these cars and if you don't have at least some background with electronics you probably shouldn't be trying to fix this yourself. I don't think KRSTS meant this in a negative manner, nor do I. The fact still remains that sometimes it's just as important to take this type of advice as suggestions on how to move forward and create more problems for yourself. A continuity tester is one of the most basic tools used in this type of work. Your lack of knowledge doesn't mean you aren't an intelligent person, only that you probably don't have an adequate level of knowledge for this type of work.

ddalder
05-11-11, 09:41 PM
Inadvertent duplicate of previous post... Removed.

EChas3
05-11-11, 10:49 PM
OK, the STS has a complex system. But that's no reason not to explain that a Volt/Ohm/Meter (VOM) is a common tool used to diagnose a wide variety of electrical issues. Most do-it-yourselfer's have a digital VOM and a lot of much more sophisticated tools.

If you don't have a VOM and know the difference between Ohms of resistence and volts DC, take your problem to a professional. In the long run, you'll save time, trouble and money.

If you are handy with electronics, this thread provides all you shouid need.

A wise man knows his limitations. (No offense intended to anyone. We are all ignorant of something.)

Neutrocuted
05-12-11, 12:52 AM
A continuity tester can usually be found on most multimeters and are sold at most auto parts stores as a stand alone device for $5 or $10. It simply has 2 probes that when touched together will activate a signal (a light or a beep) that an electrical current has passed from one probe to the other, completing an electrical circuit.

When ever you turn on a light, when the light comes on it means the circuit is complete. If the light does not come on when the switch is activated that means the circuit is not complete, something is not conducting the electricity and the electricity cannot continue along the circuit to make it complete.

I'm reasonably sure KRSTS wasn't trying to insult, but you will need some basic electrical understanding to touch the probes to the correct posts on the connector to perform the tests and understand your results.

May I suggest reading the test procedure again. Look at the connectors and decide which 2 pairs of terminals/posts you want to test. I don't know if I can make it any clearer. I only did this because I thought I could make it clear to everyone but I guess I didn't take into consideration people that don't have auto repair experience.

Don't feel bad! I'm trying to fix a 1982 Yahama Virago that needs the carbs synced and am having a hard time figuring it out. Just remember 1thing... almost anybody can do almost anything, once they know how to do it. Google it! That's what I do when I don't know something. I have never worked on carbs before but I was able to tear them all the way down, clean all the varnish out, clear all the passages out, and put them back together. So get in there and 'git r' done"!

Hope this helps.

EDIT: I didn't realize you guys chimed in! It took me so long to get to responding that you guys pretty much covered my point! Thanks guys!

Marlin
05-12-11, 06:46 AM
Yea the STS I am working on the Pass door will sometimes open and sometimes not. If I lift the handle without the fob the red light will light up so I know it can see I am pulling the handle. But when unlocked or the drivers door is opened the Pass will not open, but the 2 rear will.

So the most common issue is the 19120307 handle/switch for this?

Thanks

Neutrocuted
05-12-11, 10:50 AM
Sounds like it might be a bit more than the switches IMHO, but, test the switches for both doors first. Eliminate that factor. If you have a bad switch you know you have to replace it. Replace the switches and everything might start working correctly again.

I can tell you this, my doors acted really weird before I replaced the switches, but after the first attempt. After breaking one of the switches on my first attempt, I put it back together, non-functioning, using my key for entry as before my first attempt. If I stood close to the drivers side of the car I would hear the doors unlock about once every 45 seconds or so.

I put new batteries in the fob and there was no change. Since I knew the housing switches were bad I just waited until my 2nd housing came, installed it and everything went back to normal. Since the computer controls almost every friggin' thing on these cars I guess if something isn't right the computer does whatever it wants to!! I really don't know.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

FranchiseSTS
05-12-11, 08:07 PM
Neutrocuted.. Thank you the clear directions and pictures. They are very well done and are a huge help. I have finally found the time to get to replacing my Micro Switches. I have the door panels off and hopefully will finish this tonight or tomorrow...

Well anyways.. now that the door panel is off I want/need to put Dynamat on the door due to the excessive rattle heard from outside my driver side door.

What I want to know is if anyone knows if I can/should remove the other parts on the door (power window regulator?) and put the dynamat down, or should I go around them because that cant or shouldnt be removed.

Hopefully I've explained my question...

Neutrocuted
05-12-11, 11:48 PM
Well anyways.. now that the door panel is off I want/need to put Dynamat on the door due to the excessive rattle heard from outside my driver side door.

What I want to know is if anyone knows if I can/should remove the other parts on the door (power window regulator?) and put the dynamat down, or should I go around them because that cant or shouldnt be removed.

Hopefully I've explained my question...

Before you do the DynoMat thing, since you have the panel off, reach down inside the door to see if you can find anything.

My passenger door had an awful rattle and I was very suspicious because the window tint has a bad scratch, the rubber window wipes are not straight and there was damage to the outside door trim applique, signs that I believed were from an attempt to break in using old fashion methods. Down inside the door I found a broken-off housing counterweight and broken glass. After I got all the crap out the speaker can go to full power with full bass with no problems, except that I think the system as a whole is a tad underpowered!

Please let me know what you find and results of testing!

FranchiseSTS
05-13-11, 12:06 PM
So... I go to switch out the MicroSwitch and at step one, I've made a dumb mistake. I for whatever reason didn't take into account that you owned an 06 and I had an 08. I ordered the replacement part prior to your post with the pictures but on the assumption the micro switch was my issue, after reviewing several threads on the symptoms. It was a $80 gamble I was willing to take.

My issue is that my 08 has a different connection configuration. Instead of 2 rows of 3, It is 1 row of 6. From what I see, everything else looks identical.

My question is should I simply splice and solder the new harness to the old connection, or should I just reorder a new MicroSwitch from an 08+ to be safe.

FranchiseSTS
05-13-11, 12:23 PM
My previous question about how to remove the other electrical components from the door was ridiculous. I think at first I was too worried about breaking a clip but after using some pliers, it comes off extremely easy. Now I'm going to see if I can figure out this rattle, and microswitch.

Neutrocuted
05-13-11, 12:25 PM
Remember, the inside of the door is exposed to car wash water/weather/the elements. Splicing wires usually leads to corrosion unless you solder the wires and protect with epoxy or the likes, IMHO. But it sounds like it should work, but 1 false move and who knows how far you'll go down the ole rabbit hole!!! And, I don't know squat about later models. Send your VIN to Chris at Rippy and maybe he can give you the correct part number and a good price on the part. Don't forget to tell him you are a Cadillac Forum member!

I will amend my "How-To" to include a caution to check the part # with the VIN!

FranchiseSTS
05-13-11, 12:57 PM
Remember, the inside of the door is exposed to car wash water/weather/the elements. Splicing wires usually leads to corrosion unless you solder the wires and protect with epoxy or the likes, IMHO. But it sounds like it should work, but 1 false move and who knows how far you'll go down the ole rabbit hole!!! And, I don't know squat about later models. Send your VIN to Chris at Rippy and maybe he can give you the correct part number and a good price on the part. Don't forget to tell him you are a Cadillac Forum member!

I will amend my "How-To" to include a caution to check the part # with the VIN!


Yeah, that's what I was leaning towards. The actual splicing and soldering, while it would work, but to save the possible headaches down the line I think buying the correct part is how I should go. Do you have his member name or the web address because I'd much prefer to purchase from someone here. I'll spend another 80 to just be 'sure'.

Oh and I'm so glad I asked and you responded to my question about DynaMat.
So I purchased the car with a clean title but I was informed there was body work/replacement of the driver side door prior to purchasing. Before I purchased the car I took it to a Cadillac dealership for an inspection and while everything on the car checked out, the one thing the noted other than new brakes will be needed soon, the mechanic said there were no production labels on the door. This obviously meant the door was replaced but the color match was perfect and I only noticed a slight difference where the chrome is on the door sill so I wondered where the door came from.

I figured it out just now. The door is much dustier and dirtier on the inside than my passenger side door. So I'm pretty much positive this door came from another matching STS.

So after taking your advice to look and feel inside the door everything seemed fine. I decided to check again and found something heavy pinned to the bottom of the door. After some wiggling I finally got it out...It was the complete door hinge from the previous car, just sitting inside the door. My door sounded like a trunk with 3 subs in it. Now, I get why. The strange thing is that a month ago when I got the car it barely rattled, not close to what it was doing until today.

I apologize for the long winded post but thanks again for the advice. DynaMat would solve nothing for an extra hinge in your door. That is not the most reassuring sign of the quality of the repair shop that did this but oh well. At least I have 3yrs and another 50k miles under warranty.

Neutrocuted
05-14-11, 12:41 AM
Sent PM. Please be sure to let me know how the sound systems sounds post-surgery!

I worked at an auto dealership when I was young and a customer came in 2 days after he bought a brand new car and complained about a rattle coming from the rear of the car. The mechanics kept the car for a week... everyone drove it to try to determine what was rattling/banging in the car. They even had a guy ride in the trunk to see if he could determine what was making the racket.

The dealer gave the guy another car (upgraded) and called in the big shots. They couldn't figure it out either. Then one of the big shots said cut off the quarter panels. They cut off the drivers side first because that's where it sounded like it was coming from and they found an empty 5th size bottle of Jack hanging by a string that was attached between 2 welded sections. What a scream! So ya just never know!

FranchiseSTS
05-15-11, 01:01 PM
Sent PM. Please be sure to let me know how the sound systems sounds post-surgery!

I worked at an auto dealership when I was young and a customer came in 2 days after he bought a brand new car and complained about a rattle coming from the rear of the car. The mechanics kept the car for a week... everyone drove it to try to determine what was rattling/banging in the car. They even had a guy ride in the trunk to see if he could determine what was making the racket.

The dealer gave the guy another car (upgraded) and called in the big shots. They couldn't figure it out either. Then one of the big shots said cut off the quarter panels. They cut off the drivers side first because that's where it sounded like it was coming from and they found an empty 5th size bottle of Jack hanging by a string that was attached between 2 welded sections. What a scream! So ya just never know!

Wow..yeah that's real crazy. So yesterday because I have to wait on getting a new micro switch I decided to only install dynamat behind the subs in the door, like the triangle section. It didn't take too much time or very much material but I was very satisfied with the results. On my passenger side that has never replaced, the slight outside rattle has been completely eliminated. On my drivers side door that had been replaced and where I found the extra hinge sitting inside, the dynamat completely took away the rattle on the door. Now, because the door is silent, I hear a slight very faint squeak from the mirror area. Its only noticeable when I have the stereo turned way up, but still it drives me nuts. I think if I can remove the paneling around the top of the window and put dynamat over the mirror section, this might eliminate this.

So my question is.. how do I go about removing the top trim panel. The door panel was simple but the top trim section with the weatherstripping seems like it could be more difficult to remove without ruining it. I could be being ridiculous and too worried about messing it up but has anyone removed this section, and how should I go about doing so?

Oh..and you asked about the sound difference.. It seemed to enhance the sound but I could be just making it up. When I get the time I will probably finish off the door because I have lots of left over dynamat.

EChas3
05-16-11, 08:07 PM
Adding 'damping' to a speaker enclosure usually improves bass response.

FranchiseSTS
05-18-11, 12:36 PM
Adding 'damping' to a speaker enclosure usually improves bass response.

I watched a few online tutorials about installing dynamat and products like it. They showed putting the dynamat on the outside of the door, where the plastic rain shield is. However, I was watching a show on HDNET where they put the dynamat on the inside of the door, on the body itself (does that make sense). Is this a good idea, it seems like it is, and relatively easy to install there. They showed how it made the door sound more solid, when you taped on it, which made sense. I have a few sheets left over. This should improve the bass response more right?

mike sts
03-02-14, 11:30 AM
I know Im responding to an old thread but does anyone know If the
micro switch can be purchased separately from the housing

B1n2fra
03-02-14, 12:45 PM
I know Im responding to an old thread but does anyone know If the
micro switch can be purchased separately from the housing

Nope. Unless you go to a junk yard

Ludacrisvp
03-02-14, 12:49 PM
So how hard would it be to "convert" the rear doors to electric handles? Hmmm.

ddalder
03-02-14, 03:52 PM
So how hard would it be to "convert" the rear doors to electric handles? Hmmm.
There is definitely some work involved, in fact I really don't think it is possible.

Each door handle has two switches, one that connects directly to the RCDLR (separate inputs left and right side) and on that connects to the respective door module. In addition, each door has an antenna that connects to a separate input on the RCDLR. I can't see any way to add these components in such a way that the car will be able to recognize and properly respond to a handle pull. Then there is the process of converting to an electric latch in the rear doors.

I've thought about this myself but I came to a lot of dead ends...

mike sts
03-03-14, 08:35 AM
one more question when you lubricate the parts with lithium grease before re assembly do you put any around the lock when doing the driver side? I think locks need a special powder type lube but forgot

B1n2fra
03-13-14, 10:10 PM
The drivers door is 19120306, passenger door is 19120307.
Are part numbers 25979141 and 25979140 also compatible with the sts also. I seen them listed comapatible for an sts and cts.

Neutrocuted
03-19-14, 10:05 PM
Sorry... can't help with compatibility question.

KGFellers
04-18-14, 06:50 PM
All your info has been great. I have an additional question however......does the outside door handle have a mechanical connection tothe inside unlatching mechanism? I found some frayed wires leading to the lock mechanism and taped them but the door will still not
open from the outside.....I still have to use my key to get in. All other doors are ok. Fobs are ok. Thanks again for the help.

dannyquest
04-18-14, 06:57 PM
Just the inside door handle has a mechanical connection rod going to it. Danny

Ludacrisvp
04-18-14, 06:58 PM
Correct.
For the front doors no mechanical connection from outside.
(Rear are different)

B1n2fra
04-18-14, 10:59 PM
Correct.
For the front doors no mechanical connection from outside.
(Rear are different)

Except the key hole on the drivers side

Ludacrisvp
04-19-14, 11:47 AM
Except the key hole on the drivers side

Oops ... There is that too.

B1n2fra
04-19-14, 03:08 PM
Lol.