: Wiring for amplifier, anyone know a good firewall opening?



MudAnt
04-22-11, 04:17 PM
I'm installing an amp in my trunk, and I have all the wire routing figured out except for getting the power cable through the firewall to the battery. The only opening I found is right by the steering column where the (Cruise control?) vacuum hose goes through. Even though my cruise control doesn't work, I'd rather not interfere with any of the vacuum hoses (You guys know all about the 307 and it's vacuum-powered craziness). Plus, I'd like to fix the cruise someday.

Anyone know of a better place to run a wire through?

outsider
04-22-11, 04:36 PM
Mine goes through where a little rubber boot was...I'll go outside after work and try to get a picture for you!

csbuckn
04-22-11, 05:51 PM
Just run it with the cruise control. You can take the rubber grommet out around the hole or just push it through.

AElayyat
04-24-11, 01:15 AM
On my 85 Fleetwood the shop drilled a hole for the power cabel.
On my 90 Brougham, I routed the wire through a rubber gromet, but this car has the 5.7 so the battery is on the passenger side of the car.

MudAnt
04-24-11, 01:03 PM
I managed to jam the wire through the original grommet without removing the cruise vacuum hose, though I just realized I made the mistake of running 8 gauge wire :cookoo:
I'm going to be taking it all out again and running 0 gauge instead, don't want to set my car on fire!

Caddylover86
04-24-11, 03:19 PM
yea 0 gauge is the way to go. but also make sure you do the big 3 upgrade as well otherwise its pointless. cause if your car is still running the factory wiring for the power and the ground to the chassis thats all your car can handle. until you add or replace them with 0 gauge it will be like sucking a milkshake through a coffee stir lol. plus your electronics in your car will love the extra juice

MudAnt
04-24-11, 04:00 PM
I've heard "the big 3" before, but don't remember what it means. I'm still new to the aftermarket audio scene

Caddylover86
04-24-11, 05:30 PM
the big 3 are the power wire from the alt to the batt, the ground from the engine to the bat, and the ground from the bat to the chassis. here are some pics from my chevy but its the same either way. hope this helps.

csbuckn
04-24-11, 10:10 PM
Does the one from the battery to the chassis have to be that big? Mine is small like speaker wire. Its the stock ground wire that has the small chassis ground wire coming off of it. It melted and broke from the chassis.

outsider
04-24-11, 10:40 PM
i think I ran 4 gauge when I did mine and my car hasn't ever got on fire.

Caddylover86
04-24-11, 11:47 PM
you have to match the ground from the amp with the one from chassis. so if you are using 0 gauge for the amp you want 0 gauge to the chassis. otherwise even if you use 0 gauge for the amp and keep the stock chassis ground, your chassis ground doesnt support the 0 gauge. so your amp will be asking for a higher amperage ground and your little stock wire cannot support it, hence the need to match them both.

csbuckn
04-25-11, 12:50 AM
Are you talking about the amp ground wire or the ground wire from the battery? It would seem that the battery has about 4 gauge on the power and ground.

Caddylover86
04-25-11, 02:06 AM
im talking about matching the amp ground wire and the ground going from the battery to the chassis of the car. since you ground your amp to the body of the car you want to have the same amount of "flow". so for example lets say your amp requires at least a 4 awg power and ground to operate. you would want your ground to the chassis to be the same gauge or bigger than the one thats going to your amp. same for your power wire. but the power wire can differ based upon how much wire you use to go from your engine bay to the trunk. but thats a whole other story simply your stock wires arent made to handle the amount of current that your subs and amp need. so to keep everything flowing nice and smooth you install bigger wires so now your car can handle the extra flow! now to determine how much and what size you should run for your power cable from the batter to the trunk you need to measure. its all about wire amperage etc. just go to the12volt.com and you can find out alot about wiring your car, amps, subs etc.

Caddylover86
04-25-11, 02:11 AM
also as a side note the 4 awg cable going to the positive of the battery is usually going to the starter!!! so you can go bigger with that, i didnt i just changed the small ones going from the alt, to the battery and then i did the ground since the 4 awg for that is just ground on the engine somewhere(usually in the front) and then the little one that goes to the chassis from the battery.

MudAnt
04-26-11, 01:45 AM
Picked up some 0-gauge wire today, was unsuccessful at installing it. Much to my own surprise, I managed to get it through the firewall, but that's about it. It's way too big and stiff to follow the same path I had the 8-gauge wire running :( . I think if I take a few more things apart I can get it in.

Since my amp only accepts 4-gauge at it's power terminals, I'll have to get a power block and a short piece of 4-gauge for the power and ground, right? I've heard it's better to run the audio cables on the opposite side of the car, so I'll be doing that as well.

I've also heard of some people running their power cables underneath the car. Is this an option I should consider? Wouldn't you have to make a nasty hole in the trunk to get the wire back in?

csbuckn
04-26-11, 11:01 AM
I was gonna run 0 gauge under the car at one point, and some install places told me they do it also but I was able to keep it inside and completely hidden. You're right, 4 gauge for power and ground and keep your RCAs on the other side of the power wire for less "signal noise". I know that 0 gauge was a pretty penny, wonder what that stuff is hittin for now-a-days.

turbojimmy
04-26-11, 06:25 PM
I was gonna run 0 gauge under the car at one point, and some install places told me they do it also but I was able to keep it inside and completely hidden. You're right, 4 gauge for power and ground and keep your RCAs on the other side of the power wire for less "signal noise". I know that 0 gauge was a pretty penny, wonder what that stuff is hittin for now-a-days.

I got mine for like $3.25/foot for Sound Quest wire. I only got enough 0-gauge to do the "Big 3" (6 feet of black, 3 feet of red) for: ground to the frame, ground to the block and hot to the alternator. I got 15 feet each of black and red 4 gauge from Parts Express @ $1.95/foot to get to my power inverter in the middle of the car (for the Xbox). I also had to get a 0-gauge distribution block for the grounds and a 4-gauge block for the hot. And a 100-amp ANL fuse box for the power inverter. Lots of $$ for just wiring, but I know it's done right. My inverter is only 410 watts, but I left a lot of head room for audio system power in the future. I want speakers in all 6 doors and some subs. On the to-do list, right behind exhaust and rims...in time....

Caddylover86
04-27-11, 01:02 AM
lol yeah 0 gauge is pretty hard to bend how you want it, also hard as hell to cut! yes you should run the rca and power wire on opposite sides, otherwise you can get interference from you alt. never ran cables under the car but i guess if you can find a nice place to tuck them then sure. but if you snag something you are in for a hell of a project of re wiring your system again. and as far as a power block???? are you talking about a capacitor? or like a kinetic battery or sumthing?

MudAnt
04-27-11, 10:44 AM
No, just a distribution block. Something like this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211FBXS024/StreetWires-FBXS024.html?tp=3001

Also with the 0-gauge cable, should I be soldering the connectors after crimping them on?

csbuckn
04-27-11, 10:13 PM
I've never soldered anything and I've ran countless subs.

turbojimmy
04-27-11, 11:33 PM
I've never soldered anything and I've ran countless subs.

I got one of these for $20. Works awesome. Haven't actually hooked anything up yet, but the crimps look great!

http://turbojimmy.4t.com/hobart_tool.jpg

csbuckn
04-28-11, 10:51 AM
Looks like a neat tool. I usually crimp as much as I can by hand then put it down on the ground and hammer the crimp to finish it off. That would be for the thick 0 gauge stuff. Turbo, how does that thing work?

turbojimmy
04-28-11, 11:57 AM
Looks like a neat tool. I usually crimp as much as I can by hand then put it down on the ground and hammer the crimp to finish it off. That would be for the thick 0 gauge stuff. Turbo, how does that thing work?

You put the terminal in it along with the wire and hit it with a hammer. I use a little sledge. A regular claw hammer doesn't have enough weight behind it to be effective.

http://turbojimmy.4t.com/crimper-1.jpg

http://turbojimmy.4t.com/crimper-2.jpg

I got all this wire (0 gauge and 4 gauge) for my "Big 3" upgrade and my inverter installation. I wanted to make sure I got the terminals crimped on right, but the bigger the wire the harder it is. I looked around eBay and the "real" crimpers are very expensive for such large wire. This thing works just as well. I've seen them as low as $17 on eBay.

Caddylover86
04-28-11, 01:20 PM
yeah it took me awhile to crimp that 0 gauge lol. but yeah ive never soldered anything either. i usually just crimp the hell outta the wires and wrap them tight with electrical tape, it does the trick for me.

MudAnt
04-28-11, 08:53 PM
Can I just use Vice Grips?

turbojimmy
04-28-11, 09:52 PM
Can I just use Vice Grips?

No - not on 0 gauge anyway. Unless you have big ass vise grips. A hammer on a concrete surface or a vise would work.

The-Dullahan
04-30-11, 03:27 AM
Yes, you would AND I would suggest metal insulation for the wires, ESPECIALLY since you have snow and salt (Salt eats more than steel and wire coating HATES temperature extremes) so it is better to just go through the car.

I ran my wires through the hole and down the side by the driver's side door, 0 gauge and all (For the rear batteries) and did not really have a problem. I DID however do this in a car with no rear seats, so the whole rear sear/trunk thing is alien to me.

MudAnt
05-01-11, 02:08 PM
I now have everything I need to install everything, except the little screws that attach the cables to the amp! I got it for less than half price from my friend who works at best buy, but it's open box and missing a few things :(

The-Dullahan
05-02-11, 11:53 PM
Go to Lowe's or Home Depot or a store like that. You can find those little screws easily, whether they are the kind you just screw into a matching hole for the terminal, holding the wires on as with spade connectors or the kind that tightens down with an hex key into an actual socket for the stripped wire ends, as with most distribution blocks.

Personally, I never found 0 AWG difficult to bend or cut and I've ran well over thirty feet of it in my Cadillac alone. Just get bigger pliers. That and I use a cross pein when I crimp wires, especially larger gauge like 0 AWG, same as csbuckn . I do not typically weld or solder the terminal on, but when I crimp two pieces of wire together, I take a piece of copper pipe just big enough to slide the wires together inside with a bit of room, full it with solder, heat it up and make a stronger permanent connection, then cover the whole thing in a few layers of heat-shrink.

Angelo Gargarello
07-23-11, 02:13 AM
I know this may be an old post but if any one could tell me the best way to hide the wires on a 86 Fleetwood that would be great going to try to hide it under the carpet but was not sure if that is the best way to go with 10 Gauge wire also where would be the best place to ground it when installing in the trunk?

beatz02
07-23-11, 05:10 AM
Yes, hide the wires under the carpet.

If you ground to the chassis, be sure to sand the area down to bare metal.

Angelo Gargarello
07-23-11, 09:28 AM
Okay will do thanks. Started at 6 it's 8 and all I got ran was the red and white and my remote wire half ran took an hour to rip the dash apart to run it :/ (installing a amp takes time!!)

Stingroo
07-23-11, 09:48 AM
10 gauge wire?

How small is your amp?

Angelo Gargarello
07-23-11, 10:23 AM
like small got if off my friend and a sub for 20 bucks. But I went to best buy and the guy said it will work fine.

The-Dullahan
07-23-11, 01:09 PM
Ten Gauge? If you are running a piece of Ten Gauge from the battery, all the way to the trunk as power wire, while it will basically be the simplest install in the history of the world, how much amperage are you actually trying to get out of it on the other side?

I usually use ten gauge for turn-on wire, as it's actually the smallest wire I keep spools of that I really use for the cars. Anything smaller I use for other projects.

Angelo Gargarello
07-23-11, 11:44 PM
The 10G wire came in an AMP starter kit so I know it will power it I just didn't have the 200 to blow on the good wire that is when I get out of school :)

csbuckn
07-24-11, 03:36 PM
From the engine, its under the brake booster. From inside, its above the brake peddle. You will see bigger vacuum lines coming out of a circular rubber grommet, just pull the grommet up a little and push the 10g through.

Angelo Gargarello
07-25-11, 01:44 PM
Ya I hooked it up; ran the power cable next to the speedo cable coming up from the trans and it fit fine. About to upgrade to a 0 once I get my check and run a split box under the dash for lights and any thing else that would need power.