: Transmission rebuild - how many hours?



WesH8398
04-02-11, 12:53 PM
I'm thinking I would like to have my transmission freshened up since it doesn't shift as well as it should. I've already changes the fluid (Amsoil) and done the PISNUOFF shifter. It's still grinds into 2nd on cold morning shifts and it's tough to get into gear on coasting downshifts sometimes. Something's not right.
I went to a reputable local transmission shop and he said he'd look up the job and get back to me. He called back and said I would be looking at around $900 in labour (I'll provide rebuild kit from online source). Seemed pretty steep to me, given he's only about $60 an hour. What do you guys think? Does it take that long to pull the trans and freshen it up?
Also, would I be better off saving up and having the clutch done at the same time, since the LS7 clutch replacement is on my wish list? How much would I save doing it that way?

Stepside
04-02-11, 08:29 PM
Wow, $60/Hr. The Dealer gets $120/hr. in NJ & shops are $75-$100+.
And if you have a stock clucth and Flywheel . . then, it's a no brainer . . Get New.
Should not be more than a days labor. How are the motor mounts.
$$$$ adds up quick . . . doesn't it?

darkman
04-02-11, 09:47 PM
The standard flat rate allowance to remove, inspect and overhaul the transmission is 13.9 hours.

WesH8398
04-02-11, 11:06 PM
Wow. I wasn't expecting the standard allowance to be that high for a T-56 trans. Guess the mechanic wasn't on crack with his $900 quote. Would I be better off just looking for a used T-56 that's in better condition than mine (how would I know that though, right?) and just doing a trans swap? Or is the rebuild the way to go?

MM's are done (CS). As I said, I would like to do the LS7 clutch swap sometime in the future though, so maybe I'll hold off and do the clutch and the trans rebuild at the same time. How much time/labour do you figure would be saved by doing them at the same time?

darkman
04-02-11, 11:28 PM
Well down here, I would pull the transmission and ship it to RPM Transmissions for expert work and upgraded parts, while the clutch was being done. I do not know if that is a practical solution for you.

Dan_Gurney
04-02-11, 11:41 PM
If you are pulling the trans, and planning on doing the clutch in the near future, do the two together... you are right there.... just doesn't make sense to have the trans pulled twice. (plus twice the chance that something goes back together wrong)

WesH8398
04-02-11, 11:56 PM
Well down here, I would pull the transmission and ship it to RPM Transmissions for expert work and upgraded parts, while the clutch was being done. I do not know if that is a practical solution for you.
Absolutely not, unfortunately. And sounds waaaay out of my price range too. It's my DD. And I'm in south-western Ontario (Canada) so shipping would be crazy.


If you are pulling the trans, and planning on doing the clutch in the near future, do the two together... you are right there.... just doesn't make sense to have the trans pulled twice. (plus twice the chance that something goes back together wrong)
I'm not planning on doing the clutch in the near future, but it's just one of the things on my wish list. Now that I'm getting a realistic price range on rebuilding the trans, I probably wont be doing that for a long time either. LOL In reality, I shouldn't be putting any (more) money into this car for a few years. We'll see though. If I had to pick one, I'd have the trans rebuilt before the clutch job. If it was gonna save me a fair amount of dough on labour, I'd just save up and have both done at once though. If it's just a matter of an hour to drop the trans again for the clutch, then maybe I'd do the trans first, then save and do the clutch later. Man, it sucks when money IS an object!! LOL :wifeyapping:

Josh61513
04-03-11, 10:38 PM
Have you flushed the clutch fluid yet? If not do a search on here. Helped my shifting significantly in my '04 V.

WesH8398
04-03-11, 11:23 PM
Thanks but...


I've already changed the fluid (Amsoil) and done the PISNUOFF shifter.

Josh61513
04-04-11, 10:47 AM
I was referring to the hydraulic clutch fluid and assumed you were referring to the transmission oil itself when you mentioned Amsoil. You have changed both?

WesH8398
04-04-11, 11:13 AM
I should have clarified, sorry. Yes, I was referring to the trans as well as the clutch fluids. Both were done with Amsoil fluids last fall. I used a motive speed bleeder for the clutch as well.

AG'S-V
04-04-11, 12:29 PM
Mine is also doing the same, will randomly not want to go into gear during upshifts/downshifts and will grind every so often.

I've flushed the clutch and it's still doing it...1 month of warranty left and 69k miles :(

repenttokyo
04-04-11, 01:58 PM
what does amsoil offer as a clutch fluid?

WesH8398
04-04-11, 05:24 PM
I used THIS (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf3.aspx) stuff. The manual calls for DOT 3 fluid. You can also use DOT 4 fluid. I compared your run-of-the-mill (Prestone, etc) DOT 4 specs to the specs of Amsoil's DOT 3, and the Amsoil DOT 3 was as good or better than the other DOT 4's.

Josh61513
04-04-11, 05:37 PM
Might be stating the obvious here, but a short shifter reduces your leverage to shift with. It doesn't explain your grinding issue but in an instance where it would have previously taken say 5 lbs. of force to push the shifter into gear it will now take say 7 lbs. AKA a short shifter actually makes it more difficult to change gears.

Also, D&D performance knows these transmissions extremely well and aren't located too far from you, near Detroit. I don't know if they do installs but they do sell parts and completely rebuilt transmissions and would make great recommendations.

C66 Racing
04-04-11, 09:37 PM
what does amsoil offer as a clutch fluid?

AMSOIL offers two brake fluids that can double as clutch fluids.
AMSOIL Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Specialty%20Products/BF3PB.htm) (Product Code BF3SN)
Dry Boiling Point - 525F, Wet Boiling Point - 313F
AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Specialty%20Products/BF4PB.htm) (Product Code BF4SN)
Dry Boiling Point - 580F, Wet Boiling Point - 410F

I use the DOT 4 for both clutch and brakes in my Corvette track day car, but AMSOIL recommends the DOT 4 for the CTS-V clutch and the DOT 3 for the brakes.

I've found that air in the clutch line is hard to get out by just replacing the fluid and a true bleed is required. Never did that on the V, but it is a PITA on the Vette as the clutch bleed port is located almost on top of the clutch housing up in the top center of the tunnel both over a stiffener plate with something like 30 bolts holding it in place, and the center section of the exhaust. Not fun. But, I think before I paid for a tranny rebuild, I'd try a clutch bleed first.

repenttokyo
04-05-11, 01:32 PM
the bleed is an absolute pain in the ass for the V, but well worth it.

Ak Jim
04-06-11, 04:39 AM
Until you get it fixed avoid grinding into second gear when cold, just shift from 1st to 3rd until it warms up.

WesH8398
04-07-11, 04:57 AM
Jim - I've just been starting in 2nd when it's cold. First is pretty useless on the roads anyway, I can start in 2nd barely slipping the clutch at all.

Josh - yes, I did/do realize the drawback of the short shifter with regards to leverage. Thats not the issue though. It's definitely gears being blocked out (only on downshifts and only sometimes) and a little grinding when cold.

C66&others - I didn't just add fluid. I bled the system while adding the new fluid via a Motive "power bleeder". Yea it was a PITA. More so since it didn't make any difference for me. :(

AG'S-V
04-07-11, 03:30 PM
Just dropped mine off at Sewell Caddy for this

Fingers and toes crossed they do something about it...last clutch flush did nothing for me.