: Car in the shop...



King335i
03-25-11, 12:22 AM
I just dropped my coupe off today with my buddy at his shop, gettings some goodies installed, but more on that later!

One thing though, my wheels are being painted black and while they are off I wanted to take advantage of that to try and fix the annoying wheel clicking issue. I know some people have posted fixes, but I wouldn't know where to begin searching.

How have you guys fixed this issue?

As well, what are the torque specs for when he puts the wheels back on? 160nm?

And last but not least. My buddy followed me to drop the car off and noticed that the last 3 LEDs on the right side of my center brake-light are out. I noticed condensation in there too. Anyone have any issues with the coupe brake LEDs going out?

Domsz06
03-25-11, 08:09 AM
your gonna paint your wheels? why? powder coat them. Much stronger and more durable.

just clean the matting surfaces of the wheels and tighten to 165 ft-lbs and I haven't had any issues.

No led's for me.

Torxila
03-25-11, 09:11 AM
I agree on the powder coating vs painting.

Make sure the contact area of the the wheel lug (Conical area) is not powder coated or painted. (Plays hell with the variation in the coefficient of friction) If it is, sand back down to bare aluminum. Might be easier to make little cardboard circles/discs to stick down in there and save all the sanding/grinding.

Correct Torque is 140 ft lb, or 189NM

Regards,
George

cdog533
03-25-11, 10:54 AM
I think they raised the torque spec to prevent clicking. 160 ft lbs if I recall. We've talked about using white lithium grease or anti-seize between the two mating surfaces to avoid the clicking. Try one of those.

MReiland
03-25-11, 11:07 AM
I think they raised the torque spec to prevent clicking. 160 ft lbs if I recall. We've talked about using white lithium grease or anti-seize between the two mating surfaces to avoid the clicking. Try one of those. Not speaking for GM here, but you may want to also consider some sort of very thin shim between the rotor and the wheel also to stop the interaction of the two surfaces that are causing the clicking. The thought of grease right near the lug nuts makes me a little uneasy. If the surfaces are cleaned exactly to the bulletin the official answer is that it shouldn't click any more.

King335i
03-25-11, 05:08 PM
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

I previously took my car in to the dealership to deal with the wheel clicking issue, and they told me that they could hear the same clicking and would perform the TSB. It stopped clicking, but only for a few days.

As far as powdercoating goes, there isn't a shop near here that can do that, so I'm having the wheels painted in rallye black which I think my mechanic said is a member of the acryllic family and therefore more durable than regular paint? I don't know.

I will pass all of these suggested options on to my mechanic, see what he says.

Thanks again!

King335i
03-25-11, 05:20 PM
Also, is there any consensus on what the actual torque spec is? My mechanic seems hesitant to do 160ft-lbs because he says that would be too tight, and I know there is a difference between the stated torque spec in the owner's manual, and the updated torque spec for the TSB.

Can anyone chime in on the definitive answer for this one?

thebigjimsho
03-25-11, 05:56 PM
I have only heard my wheels click when I tightened and torqued them on the ground. If done in the air, I have never heard the click.

Teutonaddict
03-25-11, 06:07 PM
I have only heard my wheels click when I tightened and torqued them on the ground. If done in the air, I have never heard the click.

Hmmmm. Interesting. Might just be superstition, but can't hurt to try this... Thanks Jim

King335i
03-25-11, 10:35 PM
Fair enough, thanks for the suggestion.

My mechanic was wondering if I could obtain a copy of the TSB for him to take a look at. Does anyone have a copy of this TSB?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

baabootoo
03-26-11, 12:00 AM
Again, a little different here but close. I thought that the exact NEW torque spec was 158 ft/#; old/normal is 140. Where you DO need lube is on the threads and seat, so you get the correct torque value ion the first place. If you torque dry, guess what, it will be too ow to begin with. ARP makes some stuff that works great. I also disagree with lubing any other surface since friction is what prevents the wheel from moving, not the lugs per se.

King335i
03-26-11, 06:07 PM
Does anyone have a copy of the TSB related to fixing the wheel-click issue?

King335i
03-28-11, 04:51 PM
I know that somebody on these forums knows at least the TSB number.

Please guys, help a fellow owner out here?

Can we at least get a solid consensus on the torque spec?

cdog533
03-28-11, 06:47 PM
#PIC5136B: Clicking Noise From Front Wheels - (Jun 2, 2010)
Subject: Clicking Noise From Front Wheels
Models: 2009 - 2010 Cadillac CTS-V
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=17757

158 ft-lbs is the new spec. my 160 was an estimate.

Domsz06
03-29-11, 08:40 AM
i know my rims are powdercoated, I didn't clean the mating surface, I torqued to 165, I hit them with a 550 ft/lb air gun, lowered the car and torqued to 165, and they don't click.....

As far as the type of paint your using.... Not sure it will really matter. Where do you live? I just can't believe there isn't a powdercoater near you. Powdercoating is done like everywhere lol.....