: How To: Replace rear knucke bushings (98 Deville)



iametarq
03-07-11, 11:01 PM
After finding out GM does not sell replacement bushings unless you buy the whole knuckle, I went looking for other options. I think these knuckles cross with the 93-97 Seville also? And last year Eldorado? Verify this before ordering!

I assume no responsibility for anything what-so-ever for you doing this job yourself. These are merely guidelines, consult a professional if you doubt yourself.

I found www.cadillacbushings.com and bought their kit. For whatever reason the 4th bolt did not fit through the hole in the new bushings. So I went to my hardware store and bought a new 1/2" hardened bolt and 2 washers, a lock washer, and a nut. Not a big deal. But check your bolts when you get your kit. I thought I had tested all 4.

Before doing this, I soaked everything the night before with PB Blaster or the like.

Here's how to get it done.

1) I am assuming you know how to remove the wheel, and all brake components. Getting the Parking Brake cable disconnected proved to be a royal pain in the a$$ on mine since it was extremely rusted, move it out of the way when disconnected.

2) Hang the caliper out of the way not to damage the fluid hose and disconnect the wheel hub harness on the back of it.

3) Jack up the lower control arm with a floor jack to relieve some tension

4) Remove the 18mm bolt on the stabilizer bar from the knuckle.
http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8272.JPG

5) Remove the lower bolt and nut from the knuckle and lower control arm. The nut is 21mm. I don't recall the bolt head size, used a crescent wrench to keep it from spinning.
http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8275_bottom_left.JPG

6) Remove the third and final bolt from the upper control arm, I believe it was 18mm.
http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8274.JPG

All bolts:

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8279.JPG

7. The knuckle is out. Press out the old bushings. I took it to my local mechanic who used his press. $70 for an hour of labor. He also put my new bushings in for me.

OLD:

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8277.JPG

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8278.JPG

NEW:

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8281.JPG

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8284.JPG

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8285.JPG

8) Using a few tools get the holes aligned. A 3/8 ratchet extension worked great, better than the screw driver.

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8286.JPG

9) Once the new bushings are in, reverse the dis-assembly process. Tighten lower control arm knuckle bolt to 75 ft lbs, Upper bolt to 44 ft lbs, and the stabilizer arm bolt to 42 ft lbs.

http://autos.marktarquini.com/cadillac%201998%20deville/suspension/rear%20knuckle/.cache/640x480-IMG_8287.JPG

DONE.

KHE
03-31-11, 01:24 PM
Nice write up. Before bolting the toe link to the knuckle, get the rear hub at the approximate ride height so it doesn't pre-load the link too much. Easy to do with the floor jack under the knuckle and a tape measure to measure the distance from the hub to the top of the wheel well. Also, use some blue lock-tite on the toe link bolt - the shop manual states to replace this bolt but the bolt is not available from GM so the locktite works well.

MagicRat
11-13-11, 11:12 AM
Nice write-up.
I just did mine last night using the same kit you show in your pictures.

The instructions with the kit show a c-clamp pressing-out the old bushings. On mine, a c-clamp simply was not up to the job. I have an OTC-brand ball-joint press which made quick work of the old bushings, when used with a 1/2 inch impact wrench. I used a 13/16 socket with the press for the lower bushings, the upper bushing were smaller and could be pushed out directly, with the press.

As you suggest, the old bushings need substantial pressing force to get them out. The new bushings pressed-in with a simple shop bench vise, after I cleaned-out the rust from the bushing bores.

I did not pre-load the lower arm before tightening, so the suspension seems "stiffer". I do not know if this will settle down or if must loosen the bolts and load the arms again.

doublel@mac.com
11-02-12, 07:39 AM
Question: So can this procedure be done without messing with the rear spring? Also should both rear wheels be off the ground or one wheel at a time or does it not matter?

iametarq
11-03-12, 01:01 AM
I think you would be fine doing this job with the other rear wheel on the ground. I don't think it was possible to do this without messing with the spring. I didn't remove it at all, but it came into play when putting everything back together.

jammgm
04-06-13, 10:30 AM
Is there a way to determine if your bushings are bad? Is it just visually inspecting them?
I have a 98 Eldo ETC and wonder what condition they're in.

Ranger
04-06-13, 05:44 PM
If they are bad you'll know it. It'll start knocking when you hit a bump.

jammgm
05-29-13, 01:05 PM
Thanks.. I had them inspected at my last oil change and took a look myself.
The only bushings that looked worn is the link that connects between the rear stabilizer bar and the control arms and will replace those.