: 98 catera temp gauge doesnt work



dmj3812
03-05-11, 11:33 PM
i just purchased a 98 catera. the temp gauge soesnt work. No check enginge light. Car doesnt seem to be overheating the fan runs fine. Oil is clean and radiator is full. Their is a hissing noise coming from top of engine. and car seems to idle a bit high in park after car is warmed up does anyone have any ideas I would really like to fix it is a great car.

retho78
03-06-11, 09:38 AM
Maybe the wire is unhooked from the sensor by the coolant bridge...just my guess. Also, the hissing might be a loose vacuum line.

dmj3812
03-06-11, 10:25 AM
Im pretty sure the hissing is a vaccum line i hear it right on top of engine where the flat plastic piece is does anyone know where sensor is and I can also smell antifreeze after car is warmed up. but I dont see any signs of a leak and tank is full

hijiliak
03-06-11, 04:03 PM
Were you able to fix the problem?
Same with my car/catera 1998- on the dashboard, the engine temp indicator isnt working - always reads cold even after running the engine for some time.

What is the fix for this? is it a relay/fuse or sensor?

retho78
03-06-11, 06:01 PM
The coolant bridge is under the intake area, have to take some other parts out to get to it. I think there is vacuum line that hooks up under the upper intake area. Once you loosen the four bolts on top of the intake and remove the throttle body (black) pipes, then lift the intake a little you might be able to see the vacuum line.

retho78
03-06-11, 06:06 PM
Check this link out and you can see the coolant bridge and sensors. Scroll down, looks at pictures 4 and 7, picture 8 shows the coolant bridge raised up. There is one sensor on top of the bridge and another one behind the bridge, right side.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/192624-anti-freeze-leak-need-help-2.html

Thanks.

hijiliak
03-06-11, 06:47 PM
Do I need any "special tool(s)" to do this work?
I know the car is metric--

*Do I need a set of torx as well?

Anything else I should be a ware of... other than disconnecting the battery--

*Do I need to drain the engine coolant to do this work?

Hijiliak. :)

hijiliak
03-06-11, 07:11 PM
oh, one last point of interest:
For my 1998 catera, do I buy the one with or without the plastic sensor connect?

rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1313753,parttype,2188

many thanks
Hijiliak

retho78
03-06-11, 07:59 PM
I'm guessing just the standard tools are required. I would first check and see if the wire is disconnected on top or back of the sensors before buying the replacement. The one on the top is the metal looking kind sensor (AC delco 88924792) and the one on the back has a plastic end with a different style of wire connector (90541520), The one on the top has only one wire and the wire end slides on the tip of the sensor. If you have to replace the sensor(s), then I would drain the coolant out.

Thanks.

RetiredAssassin
03-07-11, 08:11 AM
I fixed mine yesterday and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be, but you have to be extra careful when it comes to the removal and installation of the plenum, I'm not sure if my 2000 looks different than yours but I use regular sockets instead of torx just be careful and you will be ok, mine came off the sensor because my crankshaft positioning sensor went out and when I installed the new one that little cable came off, at first I had no clue what it was till I decided to do a little bit of research on that and found out about it. Good Luck and keep us posted. BTW if you cannot find links in the catera blog, look for them in omegaowners.com it is basically the same car as the catera and they have good information in there too.

P.S I used this link as my starting point, just so you know what to look for.

cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/223214-where-coolant-temp-sensor-located.html

And this one to guide you on how to remove the plenum, good luck omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1285583967

retho78
03-07-11, 08:01 PM
If you have to remove the coolant bridge, then you'll have to buy new rubber/metal washers,a total of 4. I think the part numbers are available in the link I posted previously.


Thanks

dmj3812
03-08-11, 12:52 AM
I still havent fixed problem now the car is smoking just a little

retho78
03-08-11, 05:32 PM
Oops! What did you do?

dmj3812
03-08-11, 09:09 PM
still trying to locate the leak it is steam from radiator line somewhere i think if you are facing the car it is coming from upper right hand side of engine

retho78
03-08-11, 10:24 PM
Probably the upper radiator hose going to the thermostat got loose.

dmj3812
03-09-11, 01:45 PM
and the overheating light stays on is it overheating

hijiliak
03-09-11, 02:42 PM
73278
I'm guessing just the standard tools are required. I would first check and see if the wire is disconnected on top or back of the sensors before buying the replacement. The one on the top is the metal looking kind sensor (AC delco 88924792) and the one on the back has a plastic end with a different style of wire connector (90541520), The one on the top has only one wire and the wire end slides on the tip of the sensor. If you have to replace the sensor(s), then I would drain the coolant out.

Thanks.

great ty. I went into the stealership yesterday and I got them to print a schematic-- theres two sensors: one is the engine coolant temperature sensor (72); the other is the engine coolant temperature gauge sensor (61). please forgive my scribble.

retho78
03-10-11, 08:55 AM
Did you check the sensors on the coolant bridge, are the wires connected to the sensors?

dmj3812
03-11-11, 07:34 PM
think it might be the heater core

RetiredAssassin
03-12-11, 12:03 PM
Sorry it took me a while to reply to this post and hopefully you figured it out already, it seems to me that you have quite an issue there so if you can please recap all you have done to fix the problem so we can help you a little more and troubleshoot this biootch, so We can get it up and running.

dmj3812
03-24-11, 02:10 PM
Well finally I finally broke down and took car to a mechanic. Valve cover gaskets leaking. Paid 900 got temp gauge fixed and valve cover gaskets done. Mechanic says the car is in excellent condition and very well maintained.

dmj3812
03-24-11, 02:13 PM
still have hissing on top of engine something in the bridge on top.

RetiredAssassin
03-24-11, 03:10 PM
Great!! Well I'm sorry that you had to pay that kind of money but these beautiful cars are like a bad dog, once you get them you learn to love them to the point that it is really hard to get rid of them, but I'm happy for you I really am.
Well with that taken care of now We move on to the air leak and since you got the head gasket replace than it is not the plenum, but one of the small hoses right next to it or by the master cylinder right in front or above the head covers of the car it is more likely to be in the right side of the engine compartment ( the drivers side), since it is going to be difficult to pinpoint the air leak I recommend a piece of rubber hose or the long tube of the house vacuum and put your ear in one end and pass the hose or tube around and under the engine compartment, that is the best way to pinpoint a air leak, once you find it then either tape it or replace it. Good Luck buddy and have a nice day!

dmj3812
03-26-11, 02:07 PM
Well whatever they did to replace gasket must have fixed air leak i dont hear it anymore. Now I just have minor issues to deal with. Car is now running great. This is one of the best cars I have ever owned. Thanks everyone for all your help. Now on to the minor issues Heat on passenger side of car doesnt work only get cool air drivers side works great. Definetely needs a tune-up. I think plugs and wires would do a world of good. Front heated seats dont really get hot. I will be posting pics of my baby later. I think I may b stuck on this car for a while.

CaddyshackCadillac
03-26-11, 09:05 PM
How did they fix the temp gauge?

elbrown4183
03-27-11, 02:11 AM
Here is some input. I just got done tearing apart and rebuilding the passenger side head for my 98 Catera. NOW it runs like a top! SMOOTH as silk.

I agree with they guy up top about the connector on the coolant bridge. I think I knocked mine off too after I did all this work. Dangit. Easy fix though. 30 minutes tops!

Tools you will need ALWAYS.
Universal Torx E8, E10 and E12 - Snap on is the best place to get them. You will need extensions of various kind.
13 MM Ratcheting box to get that stubborn Exhaust bolt under the heat shroud. I use the BluePoint again by Snapon
10MM socket/universal
14MM socket/universal
15MM socket/universal
Magnet - for when you drop a bolt (and you will!)
Inspection mirror
TORK E50 and E55
A Good light
YOU MUST GET the GM Tool(s) kit for locking the cams, and crank. It is a complete pain without it. I found it on eBay for $80! If you pull the timing belt and DO NOT have one of these, then you are screwed!

If you are doing a timing belt. ASK ME...I GOT THIS SH*T DOWN! I can do on in my sleep!
I had to replace my PCV /OIL Separator. The rubber flapper check valve in there rots after time. Since you cannot get just the rubber flapper, you have to buy the whole unit. It requires sealant for installation. If you have not replaced it or are unsure, then replace it.

If you smell oil or coolant, then you have either a valve cover leak, or an oil cooler (aka heat exchanger leak)
Check the Coolant Pump too.

All these cars need is some TLC and patience. If your car is old and you are unsure of what it needs, I would do this.
If you have over 100k. Do the heads. While you are at it, pull and check the coolant pump. (Mine was leaking BIG time due to age)
Pull and replace or reseal the oil cooler
Check the Valve cover seal channel itself. Apes like to over-torque them and crack the channel. If cracked, replace them.
Check all seals and vacuum lines. There are tiny seals where the Throttle body connects. On the Throttle body itself are seals, replace those.
(Note - all these seals come in the Felpro head set, you get everything you need - Pricey - yes...But then you are done)
Now, bear in mind too. IF you pull the heads, they are stretch bolts. You cannot re-use the old ones, so if you know you are going to do a head job on it, ORDER YOUR BOLTS first. Same for the CAM shaft bolts. You will need a E55 Torx for the HEAD bolts and and E50 for the Cam Bolts. Napa auto has the best deal on these.
Get new belts, Timing and Accessory. You do not need the timing belt kit if the wheels are in good shape.

Is this a lot of work? YES!
Is it hard? YES!
Will you be tired after wards? YES!
Will you have a nice ride after? YES?

My story. I bought this neglected POS 98 Catera for $900.00 I have put $1500.00 into it. Took me 6 months! Did all the work myself. Now I have a Suh-WEET ride. I love it! The last thing to do is put the stock caddy chrome rims on it with new tires and give it a good bath!

Let me tell you, I got GOOD working on this car. You master this one, you are ready for anything. When you can do the timing belt yourself on one of these, you win!

I also replaced front and rear shocks/struts. These were easy.

Take care of your Catera. It is a nice little car!

dmj3812
03-28-11, 08:29 PM
temp gauge was just an unhooked wire. Car is still smoking a little hope its just burning off old oil

dmj3812
03-28-11, 08:33 PM
also Mine has the stock chrome caddy rims

hijiliak
03-30-11, 12:59 PM
Thank you! I fixed mine too! At first, it I thought I was in over-my-head, but as soon as I got into it-- it was quite easy. I replaced both the sensor and the sender; bought the gaskets too, but I didnt mess with them because they all looked new. I didnt even take off the plenum. Once I knew I had everything back together correctly and added fresh coolant... the car started right-up and within a minute the dashboard temperature needle started to move. I was very happy. Initially, the sensor was unhooked and the sender (electrical) had trace amounts of coolant in the plug-- so I used computer 'canned air' to dry out the plug, connected it to the new sender and wrapped a piece of electrical tape around it.

The last people who worked on my car (I know) did shotty work-- they replaced that black box the spark plug wires plug into, and the rings/washers for mounting the engine coolant bridge-- So once I started into it, I noticed the sensor wasnt even connected, and they more than likely got coolant into the electrical plug.

Now, I still need my main fan to work... and the (2) aux fans.

hijiliak
03-30-11, 01:27 PM
this hissing-- is it coming from on top of the engine? Do you have trouble breaking? I had a similiar issue. On the top right side of the manifold there is an air/vacuum output/assist from the manifold-- this is were I too had a hissing (of air) and my breaks failed, as if I couldnt push the break pedal down. The dealer...stealership wanted like $400 for the sub-assembly of this plastic part(s). I fixed it myself-- went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8" nylon 90/elbow, and a small amount of high temp plastic tubing and hose clamps and rebuilt it for less than $4.


still have hissing on top of engine something in the bridge on top.

hijiliak
03-30-11, 01:36 PM
this hissing-- is it coming from on top of the engine? Do you have trouble breaking? I had a similiar issue. On the top right side of the manifold there is an air/vacuum output/assist from the manifold-- this is were I too had a hissing (of air) and my breaks failed, as if I couldnt push the break pedal down. The dealer...stealership wanted like $400 for the sub-assembly of this plastic part(s). I fixed it myself-- went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8" nylon 90/elbow, and a small amount of high temp plastic tubing and hose clamps and rebuilt it for less than $4.

dmj3812
03-30-11, 05:23 PM
no the hissing has stopped when they changed the gaskets they must have gotten it. I think my head gasket might be leaking also because im still losing oil and mechanic said it looked like it might have a little leak but he couldnt tell at the time, too much oil on under side of car. He put some kind of die in oil I go in tomorrow morning to put car on lift and under black light to find new leak.

dmj3812
03-30-11, 05:26 PM
pretty sure hissing was coming from 1 of 4 air line on top of motor. No problems with brakes but transmission is a little funny have trouble shifting into 2waits sometimes till 4000 rpms to shift and a slight jump. Mechanic says that the transmission fluid is the cleanest hes seen in a while.

hijiliak
04-01-11, 09:03 AM
That's interesting, becuase I also have (a slow small) oil leak as well. It doesnt seem to be too bad, and the oil level is good. I even tightening the oil filter.

My issue: when the car engine is cool/not warmed-up, the car drives fine and the dashboard oil pressure (psi) reads high and steady. However, when the car is running warmed-up, at slower speeds - especially slowing down, I lose (dashboard) oil pressure (psi); the oil gauge falls below 1/2 way and I loose my power steering. Then, once I accellerate, the pressure comes back up and power steering works normally. My power steering fluid is full and is clean. Any suggestions?

dmj3812
04-02-11, 02:03 PM
maybe a relay, im no mechanic so im not really sure. I think im gonna have to drop an new engine in it soon

dmj3812
04-21-11, 08:42 PM
well I think i got the oil leak under control changing the valve cover gasket was a good choice. I also put in some oil stop leak. I am still losing a little oil but not enough to worry about. Last week the car just started running really rough spuddering and not alot of power on the gas pedal. I cant afford the mechanic bill so I decided to troubleshoot this myself. I had no check engine light so I decided to look at the fuel system. sems like the easiest fix would be a fuel filter so I changed it today. The car is running much better still has some hesitation and still not running quite right. But, there is definetely a big difference in how it is running. My next step is to replace air filter and spark plugs.. Does anyone have any suggestions

dmj3812
04-30-11, 09:45 PM
Ok well i guess no one has any ideas. I took car back to shop I got valve gasket done at and they hooked it up to a computer for free..LUCKY It turned out to be a blown coil pack. The coil pack is 250.00 They wanted 650 for whole job including part. I just did the work myself took me a good afternoon. Car is running like a champ again . Any one attempting to change this out should note that u need a special socket to remove bolts holding on the coil pack. it is a 6 star female socket that u need I picked up a set for 15 bucks not bad. Still have an air leak on top of engine think I need to replace upper intake. Anyway gonna change air filter tomorrow and other three spark plugs, I changed the 3 on the left side of engine last week but to get to the other three I needed that socket. Car is running great hope this is the end of my big problems. Also gonna get thte radiator flushed and change the oil.

dmj3812
05-02-11, 11:30 AM
Does anyone know what that black box on top of engine is called or how to get it off I need to fix an air leak

hgqguy
05-02-11, 02:30 PM
That's interesting, becuase I also have (a slow small) oil leak as well. It doesnt seem to be too bad, and the oil level is good. I even tightening the oil filter.

My issue: when the car engine is cool/not warmed-up, the car drives fine and the dashboard oil pressure (psi) reads high and steady. However, when the car is running warmed-up, at slower speeds - especially slowing down, I lose (dashboard) oil pressure (psi); the oil gauge falls below 1/2 way and I loose my power steering. Then, once I accellerate, the pressure comes back up and power steering works normally. My power steering fluid is full and is clean. Any suggestions?

The oil pressure is acting normal. it should drop as you decelerate when the car is warm. the power steering is a separate issue, but it is a speed sensative system I do belive.

Oil "pressure" means just that.. when you are accelerating harder you need more/higher pressure.. when the car is at idol you dont need lots of pressure.
it is higher when cold because the oil is thicker.. then once warm it thins out. Unless the car is running in the red, then there is no issue with your oil pressure.

hgqguy
05-02-11, 02:32 PM
pretty sure hissing was coming from 1 of 4 air line on top of motor. No problems with brakes but transmission is a little funny have trouble shifting into 2waits sometimes till 4000 rpms to shift and a slight jump. Mechanic says that the transmission fluid is the cleanest hes seen in a while.

The transmission is supposed to wait to shift when the car is cold.. so reving to 4000 rpms is normal when car is cold. Suggestion.. you need to let your car warm for 2 minutes or so befor you go and you wont have the reving.. also you will avoid blowing out your headgasket by letting the car warm up !

dmj3812
05-03-11, 07:07 PM
Yeah I know I always let car warm up but the wife is a different story. Im not sure what the smoke is that is the only thing bothering me right now the car is running beautifully. I took the piece off the top of the engine, their is a rubber o ring on the bottom of the piece. I called cadillac dealership to try and replace. It is a special o ring it has a L shape coming off bottom of it. Cadillac informed me that all pars for that black box have been discontinued. I took it to the autozone, and by the way when i took it off it broke more and let me tell u it made the car run like crap. anyway back to autozone I took it apart again and matched up size of o ring a little big but seals it perfectly. I also put metal clamps on all 4 leads coming into back of box Car is running awesome . Just need to get rid of this smoke and figure out temp. Im not sure should my fan kick on when motor reaches certain temp or should it be keeping cool whole time .

dmj3812
05-05-11, 08:12 AM
been reading around and the aux water pump is gonna be my next goal. Symptoms of a bad one are higher temps and sometimes smoke from engine. At this point I am willing to exhaust everything.

Mariosierra
10-21-11, 03:39 PM
can some one send me a picture where is the temp sensor on this 98 catera pls... thank you