10-01-04, 06:27 PM
my car just keeps on running after i shut the ignition off!! it also back fires realy hard during this time :suspense: :suspense: does anyone know what i could do to solve this and is thjat backfiring hurting other things like my carb!!???
You should start with a complete tune-up, paying close attention to timing and idle speed. If this fails you may have a problem with carbon buildup in the combustion chambers :helpless: . Hope this helps :)
68' Big Body
10-02-04, 04:53 AM
This could be an issue of the carb since the automobile sat for so long, these things get gumed up you know. Might be a good idea to get the $17.50 rebuild kit for it and spend 2-3 hrs overhauling that sucker... You could try carb cleaner first (add it to a 1/2 tank of gas) and see how that does, but I always just do the rebuild.
10-03-04, 12:04 AM
i did give it a tune up and set the timing at 5 deg. retarded(what the book called for) but that didn't seem to help. i don't know how to work on carbs or tune them so i took it up to minekie mufler today and they're going to tune it up for me. but thats after they put in a dual exhaust cause once we got it on the lift we found the y-pipe was crushed flat and both mufflers were blown to shreds as well. so i'm thinking that maybe there was just to much back preasure (it wasn't breathing at all :eek: ) also i put a pertronix ignitor 2 kit in it so i was wondering if that would make it want i difrant timing...any ideas!!??
10-03-04, 01:14 AM
i read another title to a post you put up and it was about overheating. theres your answer. get that cooled down and see if the deisleing goes away. bet that the overheating is causeing the majority of your problems. if it stll doesn't go away tou might check the wiring for the petronix kit you put in and try calling the company and see if they have had any problems with other customers.
68' Big Body
10-03-04, 01:54 AM
Good Lord son, you doing it huh......? Dual Exhaust. that's just bad assed!!
If you don't mind, what did they charge for Dual Exhaust? There are a few places here newar the Base and they all want about $400 for the setup. I don't know if that's a fair price or not but those were all Muffler Shops. Perhaps I should go see the folks at Minekie about my exhaust cause the 'Y' pipe is all smashed in on my Fleetwood and I need new rear shocks also. It's got the air shocks on there now with the filler in the trunk, but I think they are trashed already and need replacing. The carb really isn't that tough to rebuild, really it takes like 2 hrs and you mostly just clean stuff and replace gaskets.
10-03-04, 08:22 AM
I posted in your other thread about over heating. With the addition of the dieseling symptom this definetely sounds like a vacuum advance issue. Without the proper advancement of the points plate dieseling and overheating occur. Check that vacuum advance I'd bet the farm that is your problem. You can even remove the dist. cap and watch as you suck on the vacuum hose and see if you notice the points plate shifting. If nothing moves then the vac. advance is bad.
10-04-04, 01:38 PM
hey phil, the guy at minikie said he'll try to keep it under 300 bucks. less than i expected to pay. he wont have the finnal price for me until he gets into it a bit further. he said they couldn't go all the way back with the exhaust like the stock exhaust cause of the way the fuel lines were. the old pipe went over the axle and all the way back. but on the passanger side the fuel lines are right by the axle, and going over the axle with an exuast pipe would cause vapor lock. so if your lines run the same way you may want to point that out to the mufler guys. mine are just going to have one mufler on each side and dump right before the axle. they are ging to set the timing and adjust the carb while it's there(not included in the 300) so i'm hoping that will solve my diesleing problem and over heating....we'll see :suspense:
10-04-04, 01:44 PM
Huh, Meineke ran mine all the way back, never had any problem with vapor lock. the only problem is they cut it a little too close with the bends, and when there are people and stuff in the back of the car, it clunks over bumps. I found it hitting on one of the brackets for the 4 link suspension. You'll really like the sound, even if you go for the OEM style mufflers.... :cool:
10-04-04, 01:51 PM
i just told them to do what they thought would work best and thats what they told me. i don't mind it dumping early. did the dual exhaust free up any horsepower for you? what does it sound like? i was hoping it would be kind of loud, especialy if i stomp on it. :burn:
10-04-04, 02:01 PM
It's louder, but still not really loud. The car is very quiet inside. At idle, it sounds mean but subdued. The dual exhaust was a major improvement on sound. I need new mufflers anyway, so i'm considering going for a tad bit louder via Flowmaster 50 series mufflers.
10-04-04, 02:22 PM
sound like fun! did the dual exhaust do any thing for your car perfomance wise??
10-05-04, 01:42 AM
Honestly, I didn't have the car long enough with the single exhaust to really compare....
as stated before, check timing and idle...need to clean carb also..get spray-can type carb cleaner. With carb cold, take off air filter and spray carb completely. Don't be afraid in using to much carb spray, you won't. Let that set in for a few minutes. Start engine, then with one hand have carb spray and in other hand grap hold of the throttle. Spray cleaner directly into air intake of carb. She'll wanna bog down and die but throttle up so she won't. Spray generously. Next, take a small towel in one hand and throttle in other. Throttle up a bit and cover air intake with towel (make sure towel doesn't go into intake!). Just as she's gonna die, quickly remove towel...you'll hear a huge sucking sound..thats good..the carb probably sucked up half the air in your garage.. and in doing so, delivered all that carb spray to the inner labrinyth of carb parts...good luck...also, your car might be octane sensitive...try increasing the octane up to 91 or higher using a octane booster
10-14-04, 02:01 PM
well my drive to texas went just fine! i got the new exuast and timing set and it runs just fine. i didn't have any troubles with the car on the way down and got 14.5 mpg!!! not bad for driving through the rockies. anyhow my car seemed to have no power comeing down here. it seemed completely gutless :( i'm wondering if all that backfireing may have damaged the carb. i think i'm just going to buy a rebuilt one because i realy don't wanna rebuild the one i have. if any one has any segestions on a good place to buy one let me know.
10-14-04, 04:38 PM
There is no good place to buy a rebuilt. The boxed ones are usually junk. Find a local shop that has a good mechanic over 50. You could also send it out to a place like Jet Fuel Systems if you can put it down for a while.
10-14-04, 05:22 PM
Hate to sound like a broken record. Did you ever check the vac advance? Another symptom of a bad vac advance is no power. When mine was bad I could floor the car and it would barely accelerate. Just thought I'd add this, might be totally wrong. Leave the end of the hose connected to the dist. connected. Find the other end that is connected at the 3 way splitter you mentioned and disconnect it there.
Suck on it. You should feel it tighten up to a point where you can no longer draw air. If you keep sucking and sucking and it never tightens up then you have a bad vac advance. What happens is when you push on the accelerator the points plate shifts within the dist. This is caused by the vacuum from the carb. As you accelerate more vacuum is created and shifts the points plate advancing the timing to allow for the difference in fuel/air mixture and allows the car to burn the mixture properly. If the vac advance is bad when you accelerate there is no advancing of timing to allow for this and there is "no power." Try it, it may be your problem. A new vac advance is $8.00. Alot cheaper than a carb. Although I replaced my carb as well with an Edelbrock 1411 and love it. Put it on straight out of the box and she ran perfect. $269.00 I beleive at Advanced Discount Auto. You also have to buy the $30.00 adapter plate. There is another thread on this subject somewhere back aways. Remember even after buying a new carb I still felt a somewhat sluggish pedal and motor. That and an old Cadillac mechanic led me to the vac advance and all is well. Once I replaced the vac advance combined with a new carb when you put your foot into that 472 now she kicks down a gear and flies. Just replacing the carb may not be answer. Take the time and check that vac advance. It's simple and worth it. Don't take anyone's word for it. Do it yourself.
10-15-04, 01:57 PM
thanks for the advice i'll definetly have a look at that when i get home from work. could a bad vac advace make it really hard to start as well?? i looked at that carb and it seems like a good deal, but would i have to use the adapter if i got the edelbrock manifold or is that manifold set up for the q-jet?
10-16-04, 09:02 AM
Hard starting probably is the carb. Mine did the same thing. It would crank and crank before finally firing up. After I put the new carb on starting was better. Than after the vac advance was replaced as soon as you turn the key, VROOM, she starts right up. Also when you shut the motor down you notice a big difference in the sound and feel of how it powers off. If you get the Edelbrock manifold I believe the 1411 will bolt right on but check with Edelbrock to make sure. That manifold I'm told makes a huge difference in performance. Thought about putting one on my car but she's been running so good didn't want to mess with it. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Sounds like you're almost there.
10-16-04, 06:26 PM
The Edelbrock 2115 intake manifold will fit, you'll need new gaskets for it though. It's setup for a spread bore carb, the Q-Jet is a spread bore so it will bolt on. I believe it has bolt holes for both spread bore and square bore carbs.
10-16-04, 09:25 PM
edelbrocks are a great carb
10-17-04, 04:36 PM
thanx for the advice. i checked out the vac advance and it seemed to be just fine, how ever i did find on the threeway conecter under the distrubiter there was a bare conector :helpless: so i put a plug on that. i dont know if that made a difrence cuase i haven't started it up yet.
anyway i think i'm going to do the edelbrock(1411) carb and while i'm at it cad company's ported edelbrock manifold. has anyone used this manifold?