: Jake's studs make me happy in the pants.



ponyboyt
02-09-11, 09:02 AM
What a difference. This car is like no other ive driven. No cold carbon rap, hell this thing starts ultra quiet in the morning its been as low as -18c here. It sounds like its already warmed up as soon as it starts. None of the usual cadillac issues, this car is almost perfect. She sat for quite a while and has a couple minor bugs (most of which ive already fixed) but is now officially my DD.

I am very scared. Of killing it :( My friends were teasing me because i let some dude go from a light in a mazda. My 98 gave me bad vibes...

well, shes at 1000km's now, changed the oil at 750ish. Maybe didnt need it, but one of the cylinders was full of rust since it was full of coolant. Jakes oil came out looking like any oil should look with only 750km on it.

We'll see how the next few months go, man i cant wait to get these snows off. NO TRACTION! (dry)

mhamilton
02-09-11, 09:41 AM
I wish my engine was that quiet on a cold start! Now in addition to the noise, I also seem to have even more cold start vibrations than before I tried cleaning the carbon :(

ponyboyt
02-09-11, 10:14 AM
Its really remarkable. Ive heard newer engines tick/knock when started in -20 degrees. This thing is just ultra quiet, ultra smooth. No vibration whatsoever. I knew it was a good find, but still some things i didnt expect.

Mechanically it is a code free car. (99 pearl STS everything but ONstar, 158,000 km's). Just a few minor electrical bugs. A bit of a whistle from the sunroof. Otherwise its a tight car, suspension all works, hell everything works.

This will be the last pearl white car i put money into. Was originally from Toronto, has a few scrapes. It's retarded how much it will cost to paint. I think ill stick to black from now on.

roym01
02-09-11, 10:38 AM
ponyboyt,

I also have a 99 pearl white STS. How much to repaint properly?

stoveguyy
02-09-11, 10:42 AM
refresh my memory here. did jake fix your motor? if so, did he replace rings? how does he clean combustion cambers? if he does HG job, does he leave rings alone usually?

ponyboyt
02-09-11, 10:43 AM
A place i know well, with reasonable prices, well i dont have a quote.... but its over $4000 to do the whole car. There are a lot of coats of pain on this car.

I have replacement front/rear bumper covers in almost perfect condition. The rear of the passenger rear door is rusted on the trim, i have another almost perfect door im just gonna change it. Bubbles started forming in the paint on the drivers side 1/4 panel. That needs work and paint. I will probably see about a quote for that. I think thats all i need.

ponyboyt
02-09-11, 10:47 AM
refresh my memory here. did jake fix your motor? if so, did he replace rings? how does he clean combustion cambers? if he does HG job, does he leave rings alone usually?

I believe he can do rings yes. It will be extra. Mine didnt need it. I drove the car about 3000km before i sent it to him and it was still showing oil half way up the stick before the tow truck hooked it up. Im not sure what he does to clean the cylinder, although im curious myself. I assumed he did something to mine as one was rusted, so i changed the oil in case there was leftover dust. His oil came out nice and clean.

oh, AC Delco filter is ok right?

Submariner409
02-09-11, 10:58 AM
I like a WIX 51522 oil filter for the Northstars in our cars.

Unless the engine is extremely high mileage or was a chronic oil burner there's normally no need to replace the rings - or even remove the pistons. BUT, if you do main and rod bearings you might as well pull the pistons, clean the cylinders and slide on a new set of rings. If you do rings, pay attention: These rings go on the piston one way and one way only. Read the directions. Put the second ring on upside down (it's a tapered face ring) and you have just created the world's largest oil pump !

Ranger
02-09-11, 11:45 AM
I am very scared. Of killing it My friends were teasing me because i let some dude go from a light in a mazda.
If Jake replaced the HG's and studded the engine, drive it like you stole it and are trying to blow it up. You won't (can't) "kill it" or even hurt it. Run that engine like it was designed to be run.

stoveguyy
02-09-11, 12:20 PM
need jake to chime in here. probably cleans piston tops. combustion chambers also. i did that on my motor. has annoying cold rap now.

ponyboyt
02-09-11, 02:24 PM
i had a 98 with a brand new crate engine from GM with 25,000 km on it, drove it like i stole it, and it blew up like it was stolen.

I is scared.

Jake did say the main bearings were great in this one. Im pretty sure i told him it didnt burn oil, as it was not low after xxxx km's. He didnt pull the pistons on mine, no need.

Ive given her a few snaps here and there, shifts at 5800 in D. I let it do 2-3 at WOT with shifter in 2 last night on the highway, went to just above 6000 and i let off. That was the first time it saw that high RPM.

Highway is the only place to do it anyway, these tires (firestone 235/60/16 winterforce) fronts are almost new and they just wont hook dry pavement. Pointless giving it more than 25% throttle. Im not gonna wreck my snow tires :P Hell when the pavement is cold the traction comes on in 2nd.

If it blows up, im setting it on fire and buying a honda.




ya right.


need jake to chime in here. probably cleans piston tops. combustion chambers also. i did that on my motor. has annoying cold rap now.

im going to do everything i possibly can thats been suggested here on this forum to prevent that from happening. Waiting for the 500km mark on the trip meter and i will check the oil. (it was on the tip of the stick at 300km after leaving Jakes, i drove another 300 or so waiting to see if the light would come on, it never did, then i just changed the oil.) Hoping consumtion is super low, which it should be on this engine.

Ranger
02-09-11, 03:29 PM
i had a 98 with a brand new crate engine from GM with 25,000 km on it, drove it like i stole it, and it blew up like it was stolen.

WOW! That's odd.


Ive given her a few snaps here and there, shifts at 5800 in D. I let it do 2-3 at WOT with shifter in 2 last night on the highway, went to just above 6000 and i let off. That was the first time it saw that high RPM.
She was just about to shift when you backed off.

tateos
02-09-11, 03:38 PM
I cleaned the piston crown and combustion chambers when I did my HG job - lots of buildup in the combustion chambers - nice and quiet and it ran better than ever after that. I don't understand the exact reason why, but I do think that the inevitable deposits do somehow affect the way the engine runs. - not just octane creep, but a slight, gradual loss of power and smoothness and quiet running.

ponyboyt
02-09-11, 04:39 PM
see the thread RIP my 98. Thats the one that blew up... a week or so before it went, it had started burning large ammounts of oil. Light was coming on every 400-500 km's. Possible broken ring? Who knows, i sold the car and the next day it put a rod through the top of the block right under the starter. That car had tons of power, didnt tick, ran quiet, just randomly smoked (oil) usualy on long bends (on-ramps). Either the RPM gage was off on that car (it shifted at 7000) or it spend the last 6 months being over-revved on a regular basis :histeric::thepan:

97EldoCoupe
02-09-11, 08:45 PM
Hello all. Rough day. UPS delayed a shipment of studs to a Cadillac dealership that was already overnighted - so my neck is on the line right now. That customer is a long ways from home and the dealership cannot delay.

I always clean the piston tops (crowns) first, take a good brand of carb cleaner and spray all around the rings and let it soak in as I tape up and drill/tap the block. Blow around the rings with compressed air. A lot of carbon comes up from the rings and it all gets wiped out. Same with the combustion chambers.

My '98, (the wrecked one), I had a couple mis-shifts down the 1/4 mile and it bounced off the rev limiter at 6700ish rpms both times, the engine is still fine - actually that engine (minus the cams) is going to be installed into a hearse just north of Calgary, Alberta in a couple days. I tore that one down, rings were free, ring grooves were clean, no carbon build-up on the pistons or combustion chambers other than a light haze. I maintained that engine for the last 25,000 miles (40,000 miles) with oil changes every 5,000 kms, Quaker State 10w30. No wear on the custom ground cams, or lifters either. If there's something I could stress to people; use a quality oil and change it every 5k (3,000 miles). It is worth it. Use the throttle. WOT runs help keep everything clean.

Sub - if you read this - sorry for not responding yet to your PM but thank you that is a great idea- I will likely talk to Mike about that- and my potential customer-

Sorry guys gotta run. Catching up with everything and workin hard.

Ponyboyt (Mason) - I will warranty the HGs - you will not blow them or pull studs no matter what even if you run NOS- the engine is your call but I would not be worried at all about the WOT runs. Just make sure it is shifting normally, I have seen Northstars overrevved, past the shift point and held there (bad shift solenoids) and the result is always a smashed block). If and when it hits the rev limiter let off. Otherwise, I honestly would not worry. Enjoy that beautiful STS Mason, and thank you-

ponyboyt
02-10-11, 12:33 AM
haha ya, thanks Jake. I enjoyed her a bit tonight. My avg L/100 went from 14.4 to 15.9 :P

stoveguyy
02-10-11, 10:57 AM
i never had an oil burning issue. did not think to spray carb cleaner around piston edge with heads off. have read that shop will spray solvent into cylinder and than wait too long (over 2hrs) before sucking it out and solvent crud will dry into ring grooves and mess up job. but this comment is for cleaning rings and that is not the cause of cold knock. supposed to be crud on piston top and combustion chamber causing interference and making piston rock/knock till motor warms up.

tigers2007
02-12-11, 06:24 PM
I got mine back from Jake not too long ago and I too have been driving it like an escaped convict. Fun car with the peace of mind and strength of the studs. Should we change our oil within the first 1000 miles? (I'm probably about 1500 into it since I picked it up...). Jake if you're still reading this thread, what oil do you put in there? I'll be honest, I haven't even checked the oil level yet.

Submariner409
02-13-11, 09:49 AM
Jake's probably busy or still moving stuff from Ontario. I would guess that he uses the recommended (pre-2000 engine) 10W-30 oil and 1,500 miles on a top-overhauled engine is a perfectly OK time to do an oil and filter change. Use exactly 7.5 quarts of oil which will bring the level to the middle of the hashmarks on the dipstick - any higher is overfilled.

For your flat-tappet style of cam followers, do some reading up on the use of Fleet or Marine HD 10W-30 oils. Shell Rotella, Chevron DELO, or Pennzoil LongLife.

Northstars like the cold oil level here on the dipstick.........

<----- ADD XXXXXXXXXXXX OPERATING RANGE ---------------------------<O

EDIT: For a newly overhauled engine you ALWAYS get fanatic about oil level checks. For the first 1,000 miles or so you check that oil EVERY 250 MILES. One leak and you could lose a LOT of time and $$$$.