: Aftermarket HID lights for Base and Luxury models
02-03-11, 06:04 PM
Adding aftermarket HID lights to our halogen light fixtures is not all that difficult. It will require you to drill a large hole into the light box. If you donít feel this is for you, donít proceed. I use DDMtuning.com or VVME.com for purchasing the lights. I am using 55wt HIDís with H10 bulbs. You may want to use 35wt. which is the standard voltage for HIDís, either will work. You will also need to purchase error code eliminators. So, either 35wt or 55wt. next is the bulb. H10 is the bulb in our cars for low beam and fog lights. Next is color of the bulb. Ranges very slightly. True HIDís use the color of 4300k to 4500k. the higher ďkĒ value the bluer the bulb. I personally would not go higher than 5000k. Kids love to go higher. I am using 4500K from DDM tuning. VVME uses 4300k. I have both. Error code eliminators are capacitors. They are for smoothing out voltages in our systems. Daytime running lights run on 12.1vts using a pulsing signal to reduce the normal 13.6 vts. that our cars run on. This pulsing is the only reason we need the code eliminators. Everything can be purchased at one time at either store. So, the total including shipping should be around $85.00 or so. VVME has pretty good instructions and also include mounting brackets. DDM tuning doesnít include instructions or anything extra. The wiring is fairly self- explanatory but you may want instructions. You may call or PM me or use the web and look on ďyou tubeĒ. Any good company will work for buying the kits.
First remove the front bumper cover as in the bumper cover DIY. Next remove the headlights. Be careful to not break the small tit on the top back tab of the light. Push the lens toward the back of the car and carefully pull up on the tab. Find a suitable place to drill your hole. I used a flat spot just below the large access cover for the low beam. Use a hole saw, not a blade bit or something else. The hole will need to be measured to fit the rubber seal that comes with the lights. IT will probably be close to 1Ē. Drill the hole and vacuum out the housing. Make sure you leave all the bulbs in place and watch out for the wiring inside the housing. Fit the bulb into the housing first. Donít touch the bulb portion with your hand. Next fit the rubber grommet into the hole you just made. You may find it easier to remove the two wires with the bayonet ends on first to make it easier. Then reinsert the ends. Those ends go into the connector that the old bulb used. Make sure the bayonet ends cannot touch when you are done. Also make sure there is a snug connection. Black is negative and the blue wire is positive. Black to black and blue to red. Find a place for the ballasts and eliminators. I used the inside of the housing. The side of the housing facing towards the engine. The ballasts mounted about ĹĒ below the top forward tab and as far forward as I could. I placed the eliminator next to the ballast and even with the plug for the headlight. I used double faced tape for mounting after lightly sanding the housing. Use tape to locate the ballasts and eliminators and trial fit the lights before you use the double faced tape if you are going that direction.
Put the headlights in the car and start up the car. Leave the lights in ďAUTOĒ. If you are in a garage the low beam headlights should come on, move the car outside and the DRLís will come on. If you need to check the car by yourself leave the car in drive and set the parking brake, carefully open the door and quickly check the lights and return. If everything is working put the bumper cover on and your done.
You da man......Hope there are before/after light shots
02-04-11, 09:19 AM
Sorry, I can't add any more photos because I have used all the alotted mb of data that I'm allowed with pictures in other threads. I will tell you that they are ten times better than the old lights. This DIY is the best thing you can do for the car. I would go 55watt on the bulbs. forget the 35's.
Am interested in a periodic update on the performance of the HID system....How are the plastic housings holding up? (Have seen comments from Rippy on possible deterioration) Also my service writer express this concern (and of course warranty issues) on the $950.00 headlight assembly....How good are the entry seals for water tightness? (Have experienced this problem on other types of systems) If you would just rather PM the info, that's fine.
03-06-11, 10:34 AM
The seals are the exact seals that are used with the halagen bulbs. The housings that the bulb sits in has lots of room to disipate the heat that the bulb creates. I have had the light housings out at least three times and they look fine. In fact, I have held the whole light assembly in my hand and had the lights on and you can not feel the extra heat at all. Meaning any more than a standard halagen bulb. These issues that are coming up are just fear tatics. I have had a set of factory HID lights in my hand and they are really not much different than the Haligen frames except for some minor changes for the HID boxes and some other minor changes that include the leveling motor. The seals from the aftermarket entry hole is only as good as the type of hole you put in the frames. You could seal those seals with silicon sealent as well if you wanted. I have no lens fogging issues at all with my lights.
Any time you modify a light housing it will not be covered by a warranty. I modified my car with about 4000mi on my car and now have close to 13000mi on it and everything is perfect. Lastly, the performance is fantastic. It is like night and day.
With the 55wt system in my car it is so good I don't know why people are not doing it. I have done the factory fog light kit on my car as well and have installed the 55wt lights in them and the combination is unbeleiveable. I have never had anyone flash me or commented that my lights are in their face. I had my wife come at me with another car, a very low sports car, and she said their was no problem with glaring. I also followed her in the SUV and there was no problem. The cut off line is exactly the same as the factory SRX HID light. We have a neighbor that has the premium model and together they look the same only mine is brighter.
03-06-11, 11:39 PM
You are so encouraging I may put them in my Yukon. $ 59K and NO HID's.............................
Love 'em in my SRX
03-18-11, 10:38 AM
The HID installition is really very easy, it just takes a little time. The results are phenomenal.
My dealer installed 55 watters along with a relay but they are strobing while the car is in gear during the day, headlamps in Auto. Any ideas?
07-27-11, 09:56 AM
BWCLEMONS, the first poster, mentions the capacitors needed. The Luxury model uses the standard headlites at reduced/pulsed voltage, for it's DRLs, and the HID don't like it. So installing the capacitors "smooths" the current and alleviates the problem. Some folks on other forums have just removed the Daytime Running Light fuses and greatly increased the lifespan of their bulbs. The Performance & Premium models have a separate bulb for the DRL's.
Be advised, if you can remove fuses on the Luxury SRX, you will then have NO DRL's at all. Not the best safety situation. The US Post Office found a 40% decrease in accidents on their small vehicles, by adding daytime lights of various kinds. Motorcycles must have them in NY and a decrease in accidents was seen!
Just talked to the dealer (great guys by the way) and they did install the caps yesterday so he is going to research more...
07-27-11, 10:31 AM
They must be the correct "farad" (capacitance) rating. I heard 3PF ?? They ARE polarized also! ( won't just attach any direction) Maybe DMM (first post) could advise spec??
Think they have decided to use another bulb for the DRL and leave the Zenons out of that loop.
Its going back tomorrow so we shall see...
07-28-11, 04:06 PM
Sorry, I can't add any more photos because I have used all the allotted mb of data that I'm allowed with pictures in other threads...Go to one of the many photo hosting websites like Photobucket.com and you can upload tons of photos for free. Then all you have to do is copy the URL address and paste it in your post like the images below ... no need to worry about storage size limits anymore.
07-31-11, 11:47 AM
Think they have decided to use another bulb for the DRL and leave the Zenons out of that loop.
Its going back tomorrow so we shall see...
That would make it like the Factory HID system. Good move!
They installed a relay to run the HID's straight from the battery in full on during the DRL. and I said what about lamp life so they gave me a 4 year unl. mileage warranty on them.
They know I will trade it by that time...
11-27-11, 07:55 PM
Here are some pictures for this procedure
2012 SRX Luxury
02-15-12, 11:34 PM
Ok, got a question. I just got a Luxury level 2012. How do I convert the low beams and high beams to HID?
02-16-12, 11:31 AM
Don't do the high beams.
I now have 36000 miles on my car and every is working perfectly. I love the conversion.
02-16-12, 12:29 PM
Yes, bwclemons is right. You should never put HID's in a non projector bulb casing. It makes it a real pain for everyone else you meet to have 3x the light output just splashed all over the place. HID's should always be in a projector style light housing.
02-26-12, 10:36 AM
I have read all of this and tried everything I can think of but I am still having problems.
any help would be GREAT!
2010 Luxury SRX. I installed HID lights and a relay kit I was told I needed.
When the car is NOT started the lights come on and look great BUT when I start the car up the relay keeps clicking and the light pulse.
I tried running lights withour relay but hen they dont come on at all.
Am I missing something.
thanks in ADavnce!
You didn't mentioned you installed a ballast for each HID light. Do you have those?
02-26-12, 06:57 PM
A relay will not work. You need to get Error code eliminators and take out the relay. These Day time running lights use a pulse signal and that is causing the problem. They cost about $15.00. Check out DDMTuning.com or go to your favorite store that has HID lights and they will know what you need. Error code eliminators are special capacitors that smooth out the voltage going to your lights.
02-26-12, 08:36 PM
Yes Ballast is installed Sorry.
02-27-12, 09:05 AM
It's not the ballast. The ballast runs the bulb, similar to a fluorescent light. You need the error code eliminators to smooth the pulsing voltage. Remove the relay. It doesn't do anything on our cars. Who ever your getting your information from is misinformed. I have 35000 miles on my car with HID's on my headlights and my fogs. My car works beautifully.
02-27-12, 09:22 AM
so do I need both the relay and code eliminators ?
thanks again for everyones help.
02-27-12, 09:30 AM
No. Remove the relay. The error code eliminators plug in just before your ballasts. They are plug and play. It will be a one minute job if you can reach your Ballasts.
02-27-12, 09:47 AM
AWESOME!!! thanks I will get them.
any chain auto parts stores that sells this so I can pick it up today?
02-27-12, 11:02 AM
I would doubt it. If you can find a store around that sells HID lights, they would have them. Usually an after market car accessory store will have them.
03-01-12, 08:10 PM
ok The code emiminators show up today.
I disconnect the relay, connected them, turned car on and one BLEW UP one smoked!
yes i checked they were hooked up correctly pos-pos neg-neg
besides scaring the piss out of me now I have no clue..
03-02-12, 09:40 AM
Not good. Did you disconnect the relay system you had installed completely from the system? The Error code eliminators should have been connected to normal light system, then plugged into the ballasts then to the lights. One on each side. (left and right). You will have to call or email your supplier and get another error code eliminator to replace the one that smoked. There is no reason for the eliminators to smoke normally, unless they are faulty. There should be no way to install them wrong as the plug for the lights go into the eliminators then plug into the ballasts. Have you removed any of the plugs from any of the system when you added the relays? Make sure you check all of the fuses to make sure none are blown before you start again.
03-02-12, 10:58 AM
yes I connected it direct to Ballast on each side.
I spoke with them last night and they are sending me some "kit" with code eliminators and relay build in.
Also they said the slim Ballast will stop the lights from flichering.
03-02-12, 04:33 PM
Make sure the eliminaters are installed before the ballasts, not after the ballasts. If you do, the eliminators will fail. You don't need the relays though. Relays don't do anything on our cars. Relays are for systems that can't handle excessive power or use a low constant voltage for the DRL's. Our cars power and wiring system is adequate for HID lights. The only reason we need anything else on our cars is because the engineers are using a pulse signal to reduce the voltage for the Day Time Running Lights. When the DRL's are not in use the lights use constant bus voltage (14.5vts) when the alternator is running or 12.3vts when the car is using the battery alone and not the pulse voltage. That is why when you turned the lights on the lights worked perfectly and when you started the car the DRL's came on and the lights did not work and the relay clicked. It was all because of the pulsing voltage of the DRL's. I have the slim ballsats also.
03-02-12, 05:38 PM
Make sure the eliminaters are installed before the ballasts, not after the ballasts. If you do, the eliminators will fail.
if I only instal the lights and ballast there is only 1 way to put them togeather, so I am not sure I understand.
You don't need the relays though. Relays don't do anything on our cars. Relays are for systems that can't handle excessive power or use a low constant voltage for the DRL's. Our cars power and wiring system is adequate for HID lights. The only reason we need anything else on our cars is because the engineers are using a pulse signal to reduce the voltage for the Day Time Running Lights. When the DRL's are not in use the lights use constant bus voltage (14.5vts) when the alternator is running or 12.3vts when the car is using the battery alone and not the pulse voltage. That is why when you turned the lights on the lights worked perfectly and when you started the car the DRL's came on and the lights did not work and the relay clicked.
I dont understand. if I connect just the Balast and the lights the lights don't power on, ever. (weather car is on or off)
with the relay connected the lights come on. then I have that flicker and relay clicks
It was all because of the pulsing voltage of the DRL's. I have the slim ballsats also.
I am so confused????
03-02-12, 08:00 PM
Send me an email at: email@example.com
I will give you my phone number and we can talk.
I think you may have something installed wrong. I don't mind if you call and I'm sure we can get through this. It's too bad the error code eliminators blew up. We will need these to complete the install though.
01-23-13, 10:30 AM
On a 2012 Luxury SRX, the DRL's are just the little LEDS on the sides of the housing, right? OR am I missing something? My wife just got one and the low beams bulbs don't seem like they're the ones that kick on at 75% like a traditional DRL. If so, can I avoid having to even worry about adding the resistor (error code eliminator)?
Really thinking about whether I want to go on the headache of installing from under hood, or removing entire bumper and headlight assembly. Gotta love a car manufacturer trying to make things more difficult to work on to give the illusion of being higher end. ;)
01-24-13, 10:03 AM
I have a 2011. First check if the low beams are on when the car is on and in drive during daylight. Have someone help you. The DRL's only come on when the car is in drive. If the lows do not come on and only the side led's then you really don't need the resisters but I would use them anyway. Next you can stuff all of the HID and resisters into the back of the housing and close the large access cover so there is no need to cut a hole into anything. Try to do the install without taking off the front first. If you can't manage it then go the other route. Good luck and keep us posted.
01-24-13, 12:42 PM
Nope. On my 2012 Luxury, the daytime running lights are provided by the low beam headlights and they are on at a lower power as mentioned. The small LED lights are also on.
01-24-13, 08:31 PM
Darn it, didn't know about the fact that they'd be on when in drive. Ok, so a resistor, which I have leftover can be added. They get HOT though, might be tough to leave them in the housing although I'd MUCH rather not have to cut the hole in her brand new SRX ;) . I'll likely take the advice and just remove the bumper and not be hard headed, thanks for the advice everyone.
01-26-13, 09:09 PM
Ok, I so made my own set of pictures to post after my attempt to do this today. I have to say THANK YOU for the great write up from the OP...really helped. Only difference for me is I just dropped the top of the bumper down and left it connected to the undercarriage covers, it was plenty of room to get at the 3 remaining headlight bolts.
I got the HID's to fire, but since the DDMTuning kit I am transferring from her accord is wired backward, when I shoved all wiring into the headlight housing, it kept getting disconnected. I can remedy that but wanted to test if they'd flicker (it's the digital thin ballast) and alas, they did. I really would love to find out what this code eliminator is so that I can order one that I'm guaranteed will work on this car.
Please do post up exactly what part needs to be ordered, from where, and where to install it. I would be very grateful! :)
I chose to start at the top
I got to use my trim removal tools, didn't even break one clip
The 10MM bolts on top
4 screws on side
then you can access the 7MM bolt holding bumper to fender
3 10MM sockets under
and this is as far as I needed to drop the bumper, pull directly OUT away from car, starting on edges where the 7MM bolt was, then work your way to center, then the upper center, lift toward car and up to unlatch those two "tits" as I saw them called
01-26-13, 09:10 PM
then you can remove all
using small flathead, use your lap/leg to hold up light while you tug on plug and unclip the plug
While light was off, figured it was a good time to install the chrome dipped bulbs I bought her, this eliminates the orange hue in the headlight when the not signalling, easy cheap mod that looks cook IMO.
01-26-13, 09:10 PM
and when you signal
Since mission failed with the HID's until I figure out the DRL situation, I didn't snap pictures of that.
IMG_0354 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockstar143/8418469156/) by swimex37 (http://www.flickr.com/people/rockstar143/), on Flickr
01-27-13, 12:59 PM
I see you are getting the capacitor thing done on the other thread. Good luck, and keep us informed.
01-27-13, 03:34 PM
I figured that since the response and search for HOW TO was so scarce, I'd post the DIY in both threads, hope you fellas don't mind. I live on acurazine so I'm used to the traffic, helpfulness and pictures of DIY's from there. I'm hoping some pictures and explanations help someone that might be timid to attempt. :)
So, the ebay chrome dipped bulbs are defective...figured that out after the 2nd time lowering the bumper. SO...that said, this last go I tried something...and was successful. I did NOT touch anything under the car, left all 3 bolts fully in and tightened and still had enough slack with top and side bolts/screws removed to drop the bumper down enough to get at all 3 other bolts per headlight. In swapping back to the factor amber turn signal bulbs I literally dropped, replaced bulb and put everything back together in 20 mintues.
Here you go:
To get rid of flicker on HID's when using them in your low beam DRL on your 2010 to 2012 Cadillac SRX (and then some).
DDM Tuning kit, has a second set of wires with female/male plugs used for a harness, which the SRX doesn't need. We have voltage enough to power a small village in Nigeria
First, go to Radio shack and buy a pair of (sold indiv.) 4700 ua 35V capacitors
Cut the sacrifice unused wiring for use and pull through rubber grommet. Chose to keep the rubber grommet in once piece in case i needed to run the HID kit outside the housing assembly (in this case I didn't, everything tucked into headlight so no OEM splicing or drilling).
Cut back and strip the wires
add some heatshrink...can't tell you how many times I realize this after i've already soldered and it's too late
twist everything together, capacitor should have arrows pointing at the ground/black wire
electrical tape added to ensure nothing makes contact with anything inside the housing
and bam...no way around it, looks about a billion times better. Wife wasn't happy about her new car being disassembled numerous times but thanked me profusely (:mizouse:) after seeing what all the hard work and research was for.
I hope this helps someone out. Wife's happy!
02-02-13, 10:09 PM
Forgot to post up that I finally did get the correct glass based bulb to be installed as the turn signal bulb. All went well, save for dropping the amber bulb somewhere into the engine abyss and I wasted an hour looking for it to no avail. Oh well...
IMG_0372 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockstar143/8439890522/) by swimex37 (http://www.flickr.com/people/rockstar143/), on Flickr
IMG_0371 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockstar143/8439890908/) by swimex37 (http://www.flickr.com/people/rockstar143/), on Flickr
03-09-13, 04:55 PM
I surprised no one has caught this. The SRX low beam is an H11 bulb and not an H10 as said in the begining of this how to post. :hmm: I know because I have my car all apart, hole drilled in the bucket ready to install the H10 kit I ordered and the bulbs are wrong. Won't fit, wrong base. The factory bulb in the car is marked H11. I get to put it back together, reorder the right bulbs and do this again... I would think it is a good idea to correct the first part of this thread, so other won't try this only to find out thet have the wrong bulbs.
11-25-14, 09:57 AM
H11 or H10? I'm going to order right away. HATE the existing low beams...
H11 is the correct bulb.
On a related topic, I've run into a conundrum with my '10 SRX Luxury. I did the HID conversion 1 year ago - seamless following the instructions on this thread.
The passenger side quit 2 weeks ago (after a year of flawless performance). I though a ballast had failed, so I ordered a replacement setup from DDME. I decided to replace both sides predicated on the idea "if one pukes, the other side isn't far off". Plus it's a 45-minute job to drop the bumper cover to get the headlamp assemblies removed which is by far the easiest way to service the bulbs.
What I discovered was there was no hot feed to the R side low beam. So - opened the engine compartment fuse box to check the low beam fuses only to discover there weren't any in the appropriate locations (position #46, 47)! WTF?! The driver side low beam works - without a fuse?!
Anyhow, genius that I am, I place a 10A fuse in the passenger side low beam slot (#46) and voila, the low beam lights up.
I am well & truly puzzled. Does anyone know of a second fuse controlling the low beams (elsewhere) or a relay, etc?
02-20-15, 07:30 PM
Has anyone done a conversion to LED lights instead of HID? If so what parts did you have to order and how much did it cost?
02-21-15, 06:50 PM
DDMTUNNING.COM is giving me 2 options for error eliminators a checkout a BOW3 and a 4700uf capacitors which do i buy
02-23-15, 03:47 PM
I think I saw the install with the 4700uf cap!
02-23-15, 09:47 PM
OK it was mentioned earlier in this thread that pulling the DRL fuses would kill the low beam headlights use as DRL's. Is this accurate? Will the headlights still work on normal power? I plan on installing LED fog light bezels and using those as my DRL's, so I don't need, nor want, the headlights to be on during the day, especially after conversion to HID's