: Removing front valve covers from 99 STS engine in car.



mwise101
01-28-11, 03:44 PM
I'm having lots of trouble getting this dang cover off. I've tried everything. Removed front 2 bolts and rocked the engine, removed headlights and pulled radiator forward, etc. I'm having a hell of a time getting it off. I don't know what's going on. Don't remember ever having such trouble.

mwise101
01-28-11, 04:53 PM
Nevermind. Got it. Wound up jacking up engine front after unbolting the front motor mount from underneath. It came right off. I didn't have enough clearance (pretty much what I suspected). Just wasn't thinking logically. LOL

Anyways, It seems I had to retorque almost every nut holding the heads on. It seems that either they came untorques or I was using a faulty torque wrench the first time (bought a new one rather than borrow one). I turned each bolt a good 120 appx.

97EldoCoupe
01-28-11, 10:30 PM
Yeah always use a good torque wrench, and make sure to have them calibrated once in a while. When you're done using it take the tension off the spring by turning it to the lowest torque setting. I bought 14 torque wrenches (CDI / Snap-On) from the Northstar/ Livonia Powertrain plant auction and they all had recent cal tags on them.

The front cam cover is a PITA to remove on '98+ Sevilles. Luckily the 2000+ Devilles have a removable rad support brace on top that gives you all kinds of access and clearance. Seville owners like us are not so lucky :(

97EldoCoupe
01-28-11, 10:33 PM
Oh- and if the studs have the correct torque load on them, the nuts will never back off. They are fine thread on top and the pressure on the nut from the torque will keep the nuts from rotating. Did you use Fel-Pro head gaskets or another type?

mwise101
01-28-11, 10:50 PM
I used a gasket kit from ebay. LOL. I want to get some cometic ones tho. Thanks for the advice about unloading the wrench. Didn't know that. I'm pretty sure that I used a bad wrench now. I remember feeling like it didn't feel like enough torque but didn't realize they should be calibrated. I told my dad. LOL. I'll unload my wrench right now. It seems to have helped overheating issue. I'm going to replace the belt b/c it still seems to overheat slightly after running a while. It only seems to do it at idle though. Once I get a little speed (say 35 mph) it cools back down. It hasn't gone over the first tick though past halfway yet. This is with the a/c on.

ejguillot
01-29-11, 12:39 AM
The calibration issue is why I bought BEAM type torque wrenches instead of the click type. A beam type wrench will not go out of calibration (bend the indicator back to 0 if it's off), is unaffected by surface rust and dirt (I keep mine clean), and reads accurately from 0% to 100% of the rated torque (click types go ftom 20-100%). They do require some care in their use, to make sure you're reading the indicator correctly.

miwise
01-29-11, 12:43 AM
One other thing. Seems check engine lights are gone for now. All codes now history since retorquing

97EldoCoupe
01-29-11, 08:44 AM
That's good news Micah. About the gasket sets on ebay- some of those are really, really crappy gaskets. I don't mean to be rude in any way- I've seen some of those gaskets and the inner core is nothing but steel window screen mesh. Always stick with a name brand. I won't even use Rock Products gaskets, I've noticed some are inferior to the top brands.

ejguillot- I have a couple of those torque wrenches, never thought of the benefits to using them. Good info :thumbsup:

Submariner409
01-29-11, 09:41 AM
I have a couple of those torque wrenches, never thought of the benefits to using them. Good info :thumbsup:

I use both types and compare them often. Two of my "everyday" click torques are Craftsman pieces and I check them against the Snap-On beams frequently, and they're right on, BUT I unload them after use. There ARE places and times when you're happy to have a click unit.............

97EldoCoupe
01-29-11, 09:46 AM
That's for sure Jim - many places you can't really see the indicator....

miwise
01-30-11, 02:01 AM
That's good news Micah. About the gasket sets on ebay- some of those are really, really crappy gaskets. I don't mean to be rude in any way- I've seen some of those gaskets and the inner core is nothing but steel window screen mesh. Always stick with a name brand. I won't even use Rock Products gaskets, I've noticed some are inferior to the top brands.

ejguillot- I have a couple of those torque wrenches, never thought of the benefits to using them. Good info :thumbsup:

Yeah. I know. I was gonna do the cometic stuff. Im wishing I would have now

JoeTahoe
01-30-11, 09:15 AM
I have the Snap on diga-torque Wrenches 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 and they are the best torque wrenches i have used in 25yrs. They are pricey and the new model also does deg.. But these are also very pricey. You can not beat a beam style for the proper torq. and long life. But some times you can not see the dial so you really need that audible noise or click.

mwise101
01-30-11, 05:26 PM
Yeah. My family and friends are all trying to talk me into scrapping the car. They don't think it's worth messing with any further. I truly didn't know there were so many different types of torque wrenches.