: Parking Brake Adjustment



911ss
09-28-07, 01:17 AM
i have a 2005 cts-v. any instructions or words of wisdom before adjust the parking brake? im very good at working on cars, would just like to know what im getting into before i do it. pics or instructions would be awsome!

Mystical_Ice
09-28-07, 02:21 AM
hey bro,

is it still under warranty? if so why not try to get them to cover it? :) i mean i'm all for working on my car too, but to be honest, these days, if the warranty will cover it, i'll do that instead :p

Mystical_Ice
09-28-07, 02:21 AM
plus i hear it's a pretty hard job.

lindsay was saying it's a 1 hour job for their techs, but consider it a few hours if you've never done it before`

911ss
09-28-07, 02:27 AM
i have no way as of right now to get the car to the dealer and have no ride while its there. if i open it up and it needs new pads i can go ahead and change them myself, should be under warranty but it seems like a crap shoot if the dealer will honor it. im pretty sure i have a good idea on it, just wanted to see if i were by chance missing something.

Lindsay Cadillac
09-28-07, 08:07 AM
Here's the procedure from the service manual...

nikon
09-28-07, 11:41 AM
I gotta say, the looks pretty easy, if you don't get all technical with it I don't see why you'd even have to remove the caliper/rotor....that is assuming that the brake adjuster is easily found.......so for my question

wheres the park brake adjuster?

I mean, all it'd take is turn it once, try it, turn it again, try it........this doesn't seem like rocket science to me.

lunarx
09-28-07, 12:15 PM
If you over tighten the PB then the rotor can't be removed (for servicing).
Also it might drag more than normal.

I adjusted mine to the point of not dragging and to where the rotor could still be installed/removed, but it did not really make much difference.

Does anyone have a tight brake pedal?
My PB works but you just need to step all the way down on the pedal.

911ss
09-28-07, 01:26 PM
Here's the procedure from the service manual...

thats awsome, thanks alot!!!

Lindsay Cadillac
09-28-07, 01:29 PM
I gotta say, the looks pretty easy, if you don't get all technical with it I don't see why you'd even have to remove the caliper/rotor....that is assuming that the brake adjuster is easily found.......so for my question

wheres the park brake adjuster?

I mean, all it'd take is turn it once, try it, turn it again, try it........this doesn't seem like rocket science to me.
The adjuster is under/behind the rotor. That's why you have to remove the caliper and the rotor...

ahahnu
09-28-07, 02:46 PM
I thnk the last time I had this done at the dealer they charged me $75. By the time I got back home it still had to be pushed all the way in and made the clunking noise. Not worth it IMO. Just use it as is and park in gear. Remember to turn you wheels in if parking facing down a hill and turn them out when facing up.

WheelHop
09-28-07, 07:31 PM
Just got charged $100 to fix it.. I have to put it all the way to the floor, but it holds decent. Not much better, but decent.

50 4Ever
09-28-07, 08:07 PM
Had mine adjusted with other warranty work (NAV Replaced), no charge. Catches about 1/2 - 2/3 way down and holds real good.

Twitch
09-28-07, 09:23 PM
Had mine adjusted with other warranty work (NAV Replaced), no charge. Catches about 1/2 - 2/3 way down and holds real good.

:yeah:
I think most half-decent dealers would just do it.

Jschmank
09-28-07, 09:34 PM
Had mine adjusted under warranty too. Prior to the adjustment I had to press it all the way down and now it catches just like a normal parking brake about halfway to three quarters down.

WheelHop
09-29-07, 11:56 AM
"GM won't pay us for it (the adjustment) because it's a wear item." - Dealer Rep

50 4Ever
09-29-07, 08:54 PM
"GM won't pay us for it (the adjustment) because it's a wear item." - Dealer Rep

Isn't a clutch a wear item? I had it replaced under warranty. It depends on your relationship with the deaalership and what else you are having done at the time. I agree if you go in and that's the only thing you need done, there is a very high probability they will charge you their hourly rate.

z06bigbird
09-29-07, 11:33 PM
On my 64 SDV, I could adjust it with 2 ignition wrenches. Oh, for the good old days?

Twitch
09-30-07, 09:40 AM
On my 64 SDV, I could adjust it with 2 ignition wrenches. Oh, for the good old days?

Yeah, but it's "better" now :bang2:

teer1998
01-25-11, 01:05 AM
I just ordered new rotors and brake pads for my 2004 CTS-V. I thought as long as I was in there I would adjust the parking brake so I don't have to push it through the floor to get the thing set {even then it won't hold}.

I've searched around the forum as best I could and haven't come across anything, but I'm a forum idiot.

The dealership said the brake wasn't adjustable. I'm calling BS on that, anyone have a thread or experience that could help me out?

Thanks!
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wCphbDD3iAmwD3hdZ0PpFhkU6Lk65bJS7bIsdFbPHPU?feat=d irectlink

teer1998
01-25-11, 01:10 AM
I'm the black Cadillac, second from the left. Sunroof cracked cause its hot in Texas.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Y6r1TRMcQ7Q/TT5Y0GqsVHI/AAAAAAAAA3U/sxmiKTUSJWU/s640/P6140380.JPG

Andringa
01-25-11, 01:01 PM
James from Lindsay Cadillac posted the adjustment procedure in this thread.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/118664-parking-brake-adjust.html

CadzillaTN
01-25-11, 10:24 PM
I just pump mine like a jackrabbit until it bites.

BirdmanTamu
01-26-11, 04:13 PM
If you're only making an adjustment, it's not that bad.

You'll want to inspect the shoes while you're there to make sure you have some pad left. When I inspected mine they crumbled on one side and were gone on the other.

Had to replace the whole assembly and that wasn't as easy. You'll need to notch a flat head to get the spring set up.

Now when I push my PB down it stays, and so does the car.

CancerJCC
01-26-11, 04:47 PM
You'll need to notch a flat head to get the spring set up.


They make a brake adjustment tool for that also.

areohhhbee
01-30-11, 12:13 AM
my V's e brake doesnt bite either, thanks for the help

areohhhbee
01-30-11, 12:23 AM
it doesnt seem to have anything on adjustment, just how to replace the pads, and even that doesnt seem to help in most cases... is there any hope?

CancerJCC
01-30-11, 11:59 AM
it doesnt seem to have anything on adjustment, just how to replace the pads, and even that doesnt seem to help in most cases... is there any hope?

I kind of wonder. Most of these threads guys either have a useful one or not. Unfortunately mine is the latter and It won't hold the car from rolling out of my garage! (Very little incline). Perhaps one day I'll swap shoes and see.

BirdmanTamu
01-30-11, 12:33 PM
it doesnt seem to have anything on adjustment, just how to replace the pads, and even that doesnt seem to help in most cases... is there any hope?

Not sure what "it" you're referring to, but post 3 in this thread has a link to another thread which has the adjustment procedure in it. And if you read the entire thread it talks about exactly where the adjuster is.

Also, replacing the pads and setting it up properly is exactly what cured my problem.

CancerJCC
01-30-11, 10:14 PM
Also, replacing the pads and setting it up properly is exactly what cured my problem.

Nice to hear this, perhaps I will order some new shoes and try them out.

teer1998
02-14-11, 02:54 AM
Thanks, I should have read this before starting my project tonight. I replaced the park brake and still having issues. I will follow the instructions on the linked thread and see if I can get the issue corrected. The thread said 1 hour labor, but it was considerably more at first crack. Getting that spring set is a major PIA. I'm sure there is some super secret ninja tool that would have made the project easy, but if you're a novice to intermediate mechanic plan for 2 hours or more to replace the park brake.

Will let you know how it goes and post some pics of the project once I am happy with everything.

New drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic pads {hoping this will reduce the brake dust}.

fre1102
03-04-13, 08:25 PM
So I thought I'd have at the parking brake drums again. My parking brake pedal goes to the floor and it won't stop the car from rolling. I've tried the 'back up' procedure. There is plenty of meat on the shoes--almost as much as on the new shoes I bought, *knowing* that the shoes were worn out before I even looked at them.

I've got the shop manual, and I've read it, several times. Clearly something is getting lost in translation.

Can anyone explain to me the process to manually adjust the parking brake, and the parking brake shoes--specifically the shoe adjuster--in plain English? As in, "Pull out the little silver tab. 'Pull out' means to pull the tab away from the car, as in out, not a rotational movement. While holding the tab, rotate the little splined adjuster collar clockwise", or whatever the instructions are.

For that matter, is there any adjustment in the cable union near the differential? It looks like there might be, but I can't tell for sure.

Basically, I've got the thing apart, and NOTHING moves. It's all stuck. There's no obvious corrosion, so my initial thought is just plain operator error--I don't know what the hell I'm doing.

The last time I saw drums were on my '68 Mustang, and I dealt with those by replacing the OEM drums with discs off a Ford Granada.

Drums bad. Stupid way to stop a car. Especially stupid way to hold it in place.

There, rant off. Can anyone explain this to me as if I was a retarded five year-old (the jury's still out on that actually being true anyway, so, you know, don't be afraid to get too simple.

Thanks. It's either this or remove the adjusters with explosives, and I like the car too much for that.

izcain
03-04-13, 10:19 PM
They work fine when adjusted correctly.

You should be able to hit the adjuster with some penetrating oil and spin them out a touch. Then just go back and forth until the slack is taken up in the drum and they are almost touching the liner. Don't go to far or else you risk rubbing on the drum and creating a ton of heat and burning them up.

A flat tipped screwdriver will turn the adjuster nut just fine. It did well for me yesterday. If not you may need to remove the adjuster and free it up.

fre1102
03-04-13, 10:22 PM
I'm sure they work great when they work. :-)

How does the little tab work? Do I need to move it while I'm trying to turn the splinted adjusting collar?

izcain
03-04-13, 10:33 PM
well in theory yes but you can just use the tip of the screwdriver to pry/spin the adjuster without doing anything else. It will spin but you can only go a couple teeth at a time. "Ginger" is the word lol

fre1102
03-04-13, 10:37 PM
I'm taking the damn thing off then. Mine won't move no matter what.

Dammit.

izcain
03-04-13, 10:55 PM
Maybe this will help maybe not.

fre1102
03-04-13, 11:14 PM
Yeah, I've got that; I need to know how to adjust it without disassembling it first.

Or I wanted to know, anyway. I guess it'll be easier to just take it apart.

izcain
03-04-13, 11:57 PM
Well the adjuster should turn if it doesn't and it is froze im sure you can just take the adjuster off and leave everything else there and free up the adjuster. Mine was frozen a bit and required some work back and forth and clean up to get it to spin. probably why they didn't self adjust in the first place.

carlson_mn
03-05-13, 01:20 AM
Yeah, I've got that; I need to know how to adjust it without disassembling it first.

Or I wanted to know, anyway. I guess it'll be easier to just take it apart.

Not sure if you were able to get the help you need yet, but I believe the V is like most late model cars when it comes to adjustment. There's a rubber plug on the surface of the drum that you remove. You then look through that hole and spin the hub until you see a gear. You spin that gear by pushing in on it hard with a screw driver or a pick or whatever works for you. As it spins it adjusts the shoes inward or outward. This gear is aligned vertically but I'm not sure if you spin it toward you or away from you to expand the shoes, I'd have to experiment myself. If you need to look at it remove the caliper and the drum cover and it should be pretty obvious then. This is on my to-do list once it warms up. If you knew all this hopefully it helps somebody else.

If you skip to 4:10 of this way-too-lengthy tutorial you will have a good visual of the system. If the V isn't setup this way somebody let me know but I'd be surprised if it isn't.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_VH2QzP6oE

Andringa
03-05-13, 04:33 PM
^^^Disregard the post above, it doesn't make sense with our brakes.

My Explain it to a 5 year old attempt:
Look at the picture that izcain posted.
Look at your rear brakes. Remove the rear rotor, look at the back side, it should look like a drum in the middle.
The parking brake works when part #1 in the picture makes contact with the inside surface of the rear disc "drum".

Pulling on the parking brake cable basically pushes one end of part #1 away from the other end.
If pulling the cable doesn't push them apart far enough to stop the car you need to use the adjuster to push the two ends farther apart.

You do that by turning the little gear looking adjuster thing.
There is a "tab" that locks the adjuster in place. (push in = lock the adjuster) (pull out = unlock the adjuster)
The tab should pull straight out towards you about 1/8".
Once the tab is in the unlocked position you should be able to spin that adjuster ring to push the ends of part #1 apart.

Once you get it to move and are able to adjust it, it's just a matter of making the two ends of part #1 as far apart as possible with out having it in constant contact with the rotor "drum".
You accomplish this by making it a little bit bigger at a time and sliding the rotor back on to see if it rubs or not.

Goodluck.

Andringa
03-05-13, 04:34 PM
*double post

FuzzyLogic
03-05-13, 05:00 PM
How is this so complicated? The little tab is supposed to prevent the knobby, spring-loaded adjuster from rotating after you adjust it to your liking. Don't touch the tab unless you overtighten the brake.

Grab a screwdriver and a hammer. Jam the screwdriver in the knobby adjuster and hit the end of the screwdriver with the hammer to spin/expand the adjuster until the parking brake shoe has been expanded enough so that the rotor will barely fit over the parking brake shoe. Don't overdo it, otherwise you'll be running with the parking brake on all the time. Done.

fre1102
03-05-13, 10:17 PM
Okay, here's what I've figured out, and notes in case this happens to anyone else.

In my car, on the passenger side, the adjuster detent (number 9 in izcain's daigram above) was faulty. On mine, it doesn't move in and out like Fuzzy says, it's stationary and captive on the adjustment screw (number 10 in the diagram). I don't know if it's supposed to work like Fuzzy describes on some cars, but on mine it appears that the detent is supposed to hold the adjustment wheel in place, yet it's not an absolute prevention to it moving. It's bent like it's supposed to be spring-loaded, so that with enough force, the adjustment wheel can turn.

On mine, the detent was either poorly manufactured, or embrittled as it aged, or something, but it lost its springy-ness. It was locking the adjustment wheel in place. I took the whole adjuster assembly off the car and couldn't turn the wheel with vice grips. I disassembled and cleaned it and it still wouldn't turn.

My solution was a drift and some careful hammering. I got the detent 'back' off the adjustment wheel enough that it will turn with enough force.

So, if you're searching this topic and reading this, the adjustment wheel SHOULD be turning with enough force. A screwdriver as described in this thread should do it. If it's not turning, you're not doing it wrong, check the detent tab to make sure it's allowing the wheel to turn. It's left (clockwise) to expand the adjuster (remove movement from the pedal) and right (counterclockwise) to free it up some.

I just did the passenger side tonight. I'll see what the driver's side looks like tomorrow.

odla
03-06-13, 12:47 AM
Can you post pics? It would help even more.

Chirpin4th
07-05-13, 11:53 PM
About to tackle this job in a few... Left is counter and right is clockwise. Right?

----------

So for expansion do I turn left or clockwise?

FuzzyLogic
07-06-13, 12:26 AM
You'll see it expand or contract as you rotate it one way or the other. Your objective should be to make it so big that you can barely get the rotor back on. Note that the parking brake can be slid around a little bit, so if the rotor won't go on immediately, don't assume that it's too big--check and make sure that the parking brake is centered first.

carlson_mn
07-06-13, 01:37 AM
I did this last month. First thing you need to do is not read any of the service manual instructions on this job they will confuse the hell out of you. After you take your wheel and rotor off the only tool you need is a flat head and a hammer like Fuzzy has said. No need to struggle trying to hold the locking tab out while you adjust it. Only problem was one of my parking brakes kept getting off center as Fuzzy was saying and it would get jammed up on the rotor making it pain to get adjusted right, - when pulling the rotor back off the metal arm that holds the parking brake on would come detached (easily put back on). Just made a 2 minute adjustment more of a 30 minute adjustment on that side.

bolide
07-08-13, 08:18 PM
That "locking tab" as you guys call i , is actually a self adjusting mechanism. If the screw jack assembly is not frozen and able to rotate freely, every time you apply the parking brake that little tab attempts to turn the screw to take up any play due to wear of the shoes. You can rotate the screw to expand the shoes but you can't rotate it backwards to close them unless you lift the tab out of the way.

jeffctsvmanw
09-22-13, 09:30 PM
2006 CTSV Parking Brake adjustment

Tools Required
Lug nut wrench / 4 way
T-30 and ratchet, small extension
18MM socket and ratchet
Medium screwdriver
The Way I did it

I installed new Raybestos rear rotors and Hawk brake pads. Upon inspection the parking brake shoes were partly incinerated from dyno run with park brake on.(360 HP at wheels after releasing parking brake!!) Replaced those with Raybestos shoes.

To do on your CTSV.
1. Jack up one side
2. Pull Wheel
3. Undo Caliper mount bracket bolts -18mm - rest caliper on upper suspension
4. Pull Rotor- T-30 bolt, remove rotor
5. I cranked out knurled adjuster 10 clicks / knurls and test for rotor -the gap by knurled ring to the tube was about 1/8 ,. Do shoes drag on rotor removal? NO=Go to 6 yes=step 8

6. crank out knurled adjuster 10 clicks / knurls and test for rotor for / drag
7. repeat unit shoes just drag when pulling off ,= perfect
8. Install- T-30 bolt,
9. Use clamp or block to push pads back in to clear rotor
10. Install 18mm caliper mounting bracket bolts
11. Install wheel
12. Repeat other side

This got my parking brake working like new.

odla
09-23-13, 12:05 AM
Good to know. Thanks for the write up.

odla
05-19-14, 01:11 AM
Is it two hours per side or for both sides?

darkman
05-19-14, 07:56 AM
Well the original source (in the thread cross referenced in post 3) reported 1 hour with the caveat that unless you have performed the task before it would likely take you two hours. The actual flat-rate allowance is 0.8 hours to adjust both sides. The allowance, to replace both sets of parking-brake shoes is 2.4 hours.

odla
05-19-14, 08:51 AM
Great. Thanks for the clarification.

-STS-
11-09-14, 02:42 PM
Is all this really necessary? On my Mercedes all I had to do was remove one bolt from the wheel, put a screwdriver in an rotate the wheel until I found the click-wheel, click it all the way inn, the three back. The wheel would then just scrape a bit, which will be worn off after a quick drive, and everything was perfect.

darkman
11-09-14, 03:54 PM
Is all this really necessary? Apparently.

Whitten
12-03-14, 02:32 PM
Props to Lindsey for posting the document up all those years ago. I will be doing this service myself after just having my car at the dealership to fix this problem. I had my rear diff replaced this past January under my aftermarket warranty and when I got the car back my parking brake pedal went to the floor and no longer prevented movement. Asked several times to have it addressed each time they said I would have to pay for the service. Took it in the other day for recall work and they asked if I knew my parking brake was in need of adjustment to which I glared at them and replied yes I am aware and no I am not paying you to "fix it" after you guys never reinstalled it properly to begin with when you had the rear cradle out of my car in January.

Tj985
02-20-15, 11:37 AM
no park brake after Good year took the rear hub off to no park brake after Good change a stud. Looks like it has air. found park brake reservoir empty.

My parking brake doesn't work after Goodyear took the rear hub off to change a stud. How can I get the parking brake to work normally again?

Oh, and I found a reservoir that is not part of the parking brake system empty, so that other system looks like it might have air in it.

darkman
02-20-15, 01:28 PM
Perhaps the clutch fluid reservoir was empty - the parking brake is cable operated.

odla
02-20-15, 03:56 PM
Yea they probably didn't adjust it after they changed the hub. Take it back.