first of all the suspense is killing me and second of all is there anything i should know during the break in period? and can anyone tell me on a scale of 1 to 10 how much im gunna like having an 18lb flywheel ?
The complete rotating assembly weight is what counts. The dual disc pressure plate is really heavy, but the entire assembly is still waaaayyy lighter than stock. You will love it - I say 9.0
Don't know specifically about the Monster setup, but your motor will rev up much easier with the LWFW. My UUC FW drives just like stock in normal driving, too. Hope you have the same experience.
From a general point of view, when guys post threads like this, you know they're geeked.
Forgot about break-in. Just don't launch hard and slip the clutch, or power shift for a few hundred miles. You can do WOT while in gear, but just be easy while changing gears. When installing the flywheel, I always clean the oil off the steel contact surface before putting the clutch disc onto it.
im just gunna drive it to my school in CT have it there for a weekend then drive it home that will be an easy 300 miles knocked out there and my car usually never see's any real type of city driving
I'd say a 10! I love mine. It eliminated all the dual-mass parade clunking. It feels butter smooth compared to stock. The pedal effort is actually less than stock. The only down-side is that you will probably need about 1500 miles of break-in before the chatter goes away completely, which isn't a big deal at all for all the performance benefits these clutch kits provide.
I would say do the stop and go 500 miles before you beat the hell out of it. A couple WOT's is ok after already accelerating, but I wouldn't do it from a dig.
It sucks, but that flywheel and clutch have to get married before you can beat them :lildevil:
I don't know if my mechanic had to loosen or remove the headers, but he did need to loosen the motor mounts (at least on one side) and rock the motor forward for extra room. He said it was really tight around the bell housing.
It is almost worth it to remove the intake manifold to get to the top 3 bell housing bolts. My '07 LS2 had more room than an '04 with an LS6 that I helped out with did. I'm not sure if the body changed at all between the years, but there is definitely more room on the '07.
I think there are more differences between the LS6 and LS2 Vs then people know. There were several differences when we did the axle install back to back on a LS6 V and my LS2.
I think the motor mounts or trans mount may have changed also. I installed some slightly used stock motor mounts and trans mount (I have no idea what year they came out of) and now my new motor sits about 3/4" higher in the front and the intake tube hits the hood pad and when it's really cold, the bell housing slightly hits the tunnel.
Thanks Tony. Maybe that's all it is and after a few heat cycles they'll 'settle'.
OP - Sorry for the mini thread jack.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Cadillac Owners Forum
4.8M posts
369.7K members
Since 2002
Cadillac Forums is the perfect place to go to talk about your favorite Caddys including the ATS, CTS, SRX, Escalade, LYRIQ, Vistiq, concept and future Cadillac models.