: 99 STS Project



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JoeTahoe
01-16-11, 11:32 PM
http://http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01360.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01362.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01364.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01365.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01368.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01373.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01375.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01377.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01378.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01379.jpg Hopfully tomorrow nite i will have more pics

maeng9981
01-17-11, 12:43 AM
Hey, I envy your garage! The lift and everything? Man, that's perfect. Sure wish I had something similar. I am about to drop the cradle off of my Seville, I am ready, tools are ready, but the space is not.

Anyway, is it easier to keep the calipers intact or take it off and hang on the wheel well?

JoeTahoe
01-17-11, 08:34 AM
on the seville it is easier to leave them and unhook the master cylinder thanks for the comments on the garage.
Joe

JoeTahoe
01-17-11, 10:57 PM
day twohttp://http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01387.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01389.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01390.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01391.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01393.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01394.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01395.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01402.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01403.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01404.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01407.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01408.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01410.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01411.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01415.jpg

98eldo32v
01-18-11, 01:47 AM
I see we're going all the way in........

How many miles are on that motor? You still have the cross hatch marks in the cylinder bores?!

JoeTahoe
01-18-11, 07:41 AM
130000miles and yes you can see the cross hatch, over all good shape still need to pull the cams and valves. The wierd thing is no threads came out with the head bolts, the 01 ESC I did had one bolt that pulled the threads this 99 looks like the antifreeze and the head gasket did not do well still had dex in it looked clean. This is getting gm rings and new rod, main bearings

Submariner409
01-18-11, 09:28 AM
Nicely done.

Sure blows up the high mileage "sludge" advertising, doesn't it !!!!! :stirpot:

98eldo, There is no GM provision for honing or boring a used Northstar. You just stick new pistons and rings in the block as-is. Take a hard look at those two cylinder bores - that final crosshatch hone is NOT done by hand. The hones are computer-controlled. New pistons now have an anti-scuff skirt coating.

JoeTahoe
01-18-11, 06:13 PM
sub or any one with some input, I am gonna replace the TCC solinoid in the trans while it is apart and service the trans. The ?? is I use Allison TRANSYND full syn. ATF (castrol makes it) at work in all our Allisons. Do you think useing this at 130000 miles is a good thing or not worth the risk if there is any risk??

Submariner409
01-18-11, 06:39 PM
sub or any one with some input, I am gonna replace the TCC solinoid in the trans while it is apart and service the trans. The ?? is I use Allison TRANSYND full syn. ATF (castrol makes it) at work in all our Allisons. Do you think useing this at 130000 miles is a good thing or not worth the risk if there is any risk??

If the fluid meets GM specs for either DEXRON-III or -VI, why not ??? I mean, I sure wouldn't use Kendall HYKEN 10W logsplitter hydraulic fluid, but LOTS of bottlers sell GM spec'd ATF products.

JoeTahoe
01-18-11, 07:25 PM
thanks sub this is the same atf that gm uses in there Duramax/Allison HD trucks. I have used it for 10yrs on my own rebuilds and at work on over the road coaches

JoeTahoe
01-19-11, 12:05 AM
well i got the heads apart and it is bad news needs both exhaust cams, 14 lifters and all exhaust valves. I will have pics up tomorrow. I really need to talk too Jake@Northstarperformance

98eldo32v
01-19-11, 12:06 AM
Sub and Joetahoe,

Are you guys stating that there's no need to re-hone. I mean yes I can still see the cross-hatch marks but no re hone?!

Joe, are you putting in standard size bearings? Are you getting the crank journals resized?

Submariner409
01-19-11, 01:10 PM
98, I have been through the 2002 Seville Helm/GM Seville Service Manual several times this morning - general maintenance and engine repair. It is silent on the need or method to hone the cylinders when replacing rings. It DOES state that any cylinder wear or deformity out of specs is cause for block replacement. It also states that you DO NOT turn the crank journals - if standard bearings will not fit to spec (Plastigage), replace the crank.

There was another thread on Northstar cylinder honing a couple of years ago and I believe the consensus was, because the Northstar has an aggressive cylinder hone pattern and uses low-tension rings, there should be no need to do a "glaze break" dingle ball job. You could call CHRFAB and ask them if it's necessary in a stock engine. AJXTCMAN seems to have built dozens of Northstars - he'll know too.

I'll cop out on this one and defer to Jake or one of the other high-volume Northstar repair members. The two Northstars that I was involved in repairing were not disassembled past the short block.

JoeTahoe
01-19-11, 02:41 PM
does any one have Left and Right exhaust cams that they are willing to sell, Left #1647437 and Right #1647436 Thanks for any input, Joe

98eldo32v
01-19-11, 03:34 PM
WOW!!!

I have the 98 FSM. I'm glad I do, but basically you're telling me pertaining to the crank that if standard size bearing DON'T fit, I'm done?! So, all these rebuilds that are going on, are they replacing the bearings with standard size bearings? No clean up of the journals at all?! WOW!!!

Pertaining to the low tension rings, is that a possible source of the oil consumption at times on some engines?

Submariner409
01-19-11, 05:07 PM
If you have the GM FSM, what does it say in the section - Engine Mechanical - pertaining to crank, bearings, inspection, Plastigage, and replacement ? (Not far after the section on damaged bolt hole thread repair work.)

I use low-tension top rings in Olds 455 rebuilds and have no problems with either bore wear or oil consumption.

You'll notice that the manual also makes no mention of cylinder wear ridge removal............

JoeTahoe
01-19-11, 05:31 PM
here is the bad news pictureshttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01416.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01417.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01418.jpg

JoeTahoe
01-19-11, 05:39 PM
sub is exactly correct on the FSM and this is the second northstar I have had apart and no ridge and no cylinder wear all though oil rings are pretty dirty and do not move freely

tateos
01-19-11, 09:27 PM
Thanks for all the pics... and keep 'em coming!

Yes - the general explanation on high oil consumption on these engines seems to be leaks, and sticking rings - not too often wear or due to low tension rings.

Was the wear on the cams and lifters not apparent until after you disassembled the heads? Just curious, because I didn't disassemble mine when I did my HG project, nor did I detect any signs of significant wear. The tops of the lifters were all like mirrors - I think maybe some of the cam lobes might have had a bit of a worn appearance - it was 3 years ago, so I forget exactly. Now, I'm wondering if I would have seen more if I took the heads apart...

JoeTahoe
01-19-11, 10:06 PM
yes it had a slight tick to it I wish I could find two good used cams. Jake@Northstarperformance says he dosnt even have any cams so it looks like my shop will be out of service till the wife says it is ok to get two new cams from GM. The vavles and lifters are aval. in the after market but I cant find any cams. It will just hert my over all expensives on a clean sleeper Cady. But I still will only have around $3000 in it + all my time. I am wishing it was a 2000 or newer because of the valvetrain updates that is the only wear problem I see in the engine. In the end it will be worth it to pull up to some kid with his soupcan exhaust, bass pounding tail lights and neon lit up neon or civic and blow him away.

98eldo32v
01-20-11, 12:52 AM
You had a ticking noise and it did THAT to those lobes........DAMN.

You should have some salvage yards near you that may have some engines that your can salvage the exhaust cams from.

I know the pull a part around here has had some northstars and guys were pulling cams off of the engines. As of late, they are just taking the whole drivetrain.

If I go to the pull a part, I'll look around for you.....

98eldo32v
01-20-11, 12:59 AM
Hope this helps..........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cadillac-Northstar-Camshaft-Exhaust-Intake-DOHC-93-99-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255fe79d6aQQitemZ16052 2804586QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

JoeTahoe
01-20-11, 08:53 AM
thanks i e-mailed him

Submariner409
01-20-11, 09:48 AM
Those cam/follower pictures are mute testimony to the need to run a HD 10W-30 fleet or marine oil such as Chevron DELO, Shell Rotella, or Pennzoil Long Life. These oils are certified for gasoline and diesel fleet, marine, and stationary service and thus carry a much higher ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus) anti-scuff load than the current SM oils and far more than the new SN oils. Roller cam engines can get away with SM oils, but it's apparently death on flat-tappet cams. Thanks to the U.S. and California EPA.

JoeTahoe, For info, what oil(s) were run in the engine those cams came out of ?

FWIW, The wear sequence on flat tappet installations is: The case hardening on the tappet face breaks down due to lack of proper lubrication (it is a rubbing, not rolling, contact), causing the dish wear which then destroys the cam lobes. Notice the cutaway on the back sides of the cam lobes - that's there to cause the lifter/tappet/follower to rotate in its bore, evening out the rubbing wear.

JoeTahoe
01-20-11, 01:13 PM
sub i do not know what oil was used in this as i bought with bad headgaskets so i have no history of oil changes. But it did have clean oil in it and a wix filter. I am the 3rd owner and i purchessed it from a fellow in his late 60s he has owned it since 05 i beileve. he purchessed a brand new sts after he found out no one would do the repairs and warranty this. I will be useing Rottella 10w30 and a wix/napa filter. I think the wear is from low oil or lack of of propper spec. oil

98eldo32v
01-20-11, 01:41 PM
Well,

My studs just arrived and I'll be joining in the engine dismantle club......

98eldo32v
01-20-11, 01:54 PM
After inspecting the items that came in the stud kit box, all I can say is WOW!

The combo plate fixture has bolts that go into the exisiting holes to hold the plate while you drill out the other holes. Just comparing the different sizes of the bolts and the thread pitch is night and day?!

All I can say Jake invested some serious time into this is. There is no possible way I can see this failing if installed correctly.

I take my hat off to you Jake , well done.

Submariner409
01-20-11, 03:26 PM
98 - While the stud kit is new, lay it all out and post a couple of pics in the Northstar Head Bolt/Gasket failure sticky ^^^.

JoeTahoe
01-20-11, 03:28 PM
:D Yea what he said

ejguillot
01-20-11, 04:04 PM
Those cam/follower pictures are mute testimony to the need to run a HD 10W-30 fleet or marine oil such as Chevron DELO, Shell Rotella, or Pennzoil Long Life. These oils are certified for gasoline and diesel fleet, marine, and stationary service and thus carry a much higher ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus) anti-scuff load than the current SM oils and far more than the new SN oils. Roller cam engines can get away with SM oils, but it's apparently death on flat-tappet cams. Thanks to the U.S. and California EPA.

JoeTahoe, For info, what oil(s) were run in the engine those cams came out of ?

FWIW, The wear sequence on flat tappet installations is: The case hardening on the tappet face breaks down due to lack of proper lubrication (it is a rubbing, not rolling, contact), causing the dish wear which then destroys the cam lobes. Notice the cutaway on the back sides of the cam lobes - that's there to cause the lifter/tappet/follower to rotate in its bore, evening out the rubbing wear.

Those pics are a good reason to stick with 2000 and newer Northstars (the headgasket bolt thread wasn't fixed, but not having the flat tappet wear problem is worth it). Even if you use the high ZDDP oil, there's no guarantee that the previous owners did.

98eldo32v
01-20-11, 04:20 PM
Ok, I'll take some pictures. It'll be later on this evening though. I have to go attend my other hobby in a bit.........bowling.

Pete1996
01-21-11, 10:37 AM
Nice work Joe!
Do you plan to replace the rings or just clean everything up?
What about the top ridge in the bore, shouldn't that be removed?

JoeTahoe
01-21-11, 10:55 AM
rings, rod and main bearings. Complete reseal and studs. also TTC solinoid and converter seal. All new valve seals. Two diferant cams and lifters. New water pump and thermostat. I just cant wait til it is done been driving a Tahoe for last 8 yrs its nice but not cadillac nice. And there is no real ridge just a little carbon buid up so no ridge reamer.

Submariner409
01-21-11, 11:16 AM
What about the top ridge in the bore

Post #16. Northstars do not normally experience cylinder bore wear = ridge.

The only indication of cylinder block repair addressed in the GM Manual is something like "If a cylinder is damaged, replace the block." I believe there are no GM oversized pistons, rings or even crank/rod bearings.

mtflight
01-21-11, 01:23 PM
Very nice setup and what a great job you're doing. The cam wear is due to the newer oils having less ZDDP (zinc) additive. Newer 00+ with roller cam followers aren't prone to this wear type. You could add ZDDP at each oil change to prevent it from happening again, faster, as the newer oils will have even less zinc.

98eldo32v
01-21-11, 05:13 PM
Very nice setup and what a great job you're doing. The cam wear is due to the newer oils having less ZDDP (zinc) additive. Newer 00+ with roller cam followers aren't prone to this wear type. You could add ZDDP at each oil change to prevent it from happening again, faster, as the newer oils will have even less zinc.

So, basically you're stating that the newer oils have LESS wear proctection.

So, what does that mean for folks that have older vehicles? We can only get oil that is going to accelerate the engine wear or we have to go out and get a "newer" vehicle.

This is great. Sounds like another way to get rid of older vehicles or pay more to try to maintain an older vehicle when in reality it should be getting cheaper to own an older car....

Submariner409
01-21-11, 05:49 PM
So, basically you're stating that the newer oils have LESS wear protection.

It's a fact. The SL and SM oils have significantly lowered ZDDP levels which is detrimental to flat tappet valve lifter type engines. Those oils aren't kind to cam and distributor drive gears, either.

Post #24

drewsdeville
01-21-11, 05:58 PM
So, basically you're stating that the newer oils have LESS wear proctection.

So, what does that mean for folks that have older vehicles? We can only get oil that is going to accelerate the engine wear or we have to go out and get a "newer" vehicle.

This is great. Sounds like another way to get rid of older vehicles or pay more to try to maintain an older vehicle when in reality it should be getting cheaper to own an older car....

From what I understand, the lower ZDDP levels are due to manufacturers response to EPA regulation on cat converters. The EPA now demands ridiculously long cat converter life (over 150,000 miles or something?). All engines consume SOME oil, even if it's not detectable on the dipstick. That said, engines running oils high in zinc will reduce cat converter efficiency over time.

98eldo32v
01-21-11, 06:19 PM
it's a fact. The sl and sm oils have significantly lowered zddp levels which is detrimental to flat tappet valve lifter type engines. Those oils aren't kind to cam and distributor drive gears, either.

Post #24

Hear that folks. If you've got a distributor and a flat tappet cam, you're setting yourself(your car for that matter) for failure using the "newer" hi- tech oil......

When does the madness stop........

98eldo32v
01-21-11, 06:22 PM
Guys,

I took those pictures of the studs, but I have to resize them. I guess they are too big. They'll be up soon

mtflight
01-21-11, 06:55 PM
A few of us with the 93-99 northstar were using Diesel oils as they have a lot more ZDDP but the latest ones are also reduced. STP makes an oil additive that claims to have the most ZDDP than the competition. Or you could just get a racing oil $$ or add the GM prelube used to assemble engines.

Here's a HotRod Magazine article on the flat tappet cam woes http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html

"Modern heavy-duty truck diesel oils with lots of ZDDP additives will bemarked "CI-4" or "CI-4 Plus." They also easily pass the API Service SLgasoline engine performance test (but due to the high ZDDP content, notthe SL chemical composition specs). Such truck oils are an economical and effective solution for flat-tappet longevity"

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/zddp.gif borrowed from Hotrod Mag article above.

drewsdeville
01-21-11, 08:01 PM
Well, I run the cheapest oil I can in my cars (typically Farm and Fleet brand). Most of my 4.X's have been roller cam variants, like my current '90. But, when I pulled the distributor to do intake gaskets at 170k miles, the distributor gear looked like new.

I also have one 195k mile '89 4.5 in the family, which is a flat tappet engine. Runs like new, good on power, even after years of this new-fangled oil.

There are also plenty of other high mileage flat tappet engines that aren't rounding cams and wearing out other components. There's more to the equation than just oil. Design attributes like hardness of components, geometry, and loading can change a lot.

I wouldn't say that us flat tappet/distributor guys are setting ourselves up for failure... If the aforementioned 195k 4.5 blew up tomorrow, I'd be happy with the length of service it gave without so much as the valve covers being removed (though the gaskets leak heavily at this point :mad:).

97EldoCoupe
01-21-11, 08:50 PM
Passing time until tomorrow morning. Hope nobody minds if I chime in.

Any time I pull the pistons out I always hone the cylinders using a flex hone. Don't get aggressive, the objective is to remove the glaze and leave a finish that will hold oil- not to remove material from the cylinder wall. Duplicate the factory crosshatching as close as possible, Control your drill speed very carefully. I have had excellent results with this. Check the bores for taper and out of round, but if you see the factory honing marks the chance of taper and out of round is not too likely.

Joe you can expect the parts to complete that engine in a few days. Do as much as you can while you're waiting with the cleaning and soforth, I'm sure you already have and are just waiting for the studs and seals.

I tore my cammed engine down out of my '98 STS. Rings are free, no carbon at all on the pistons and valves. 25,000 miles since I did the HG's on that one. WOT fun pays off.

tateos
01-21-11, 08:52 PM
My '97 ETC engine has flat tappets - I run Chevron or Walmart or whatever is cheap conventional oil - I'm not too worried about it - it's an old car with 166K on the clock. My 2005 Lincoln LS with 53K miles has a 3.0 L V-6 DOHC engine, also with flat tappets - I have always run Mobil 1 - now I'm wondering...should I be concerned? I found this stuff at Big Lots for $2.50 per quart

http://cornerstoneproducts.ca/online_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=63

It list ZDDP as the main ingredient. I added a quart with the last oil change for the Eldo - figured what the hell - costs about the same as oil. Now I'm thinking...maybe I should add it to the Lincoln too?

JoeTahoe
01-21-11, 10:14 PM
on the 01 ESC i did rings and the same rods and mains that only had 70000miles and the cross hatch looked almost identical as my 99 with 130000miles on it. I did use the Flex hone after talking to Jake and the owners say it still has not used any oil but they do not drive it much (there baby) i do know that it had over 1500 miles on it. Break in and such i havent seen it since september. Also i did and i am only going to use gm rings in any northstar after chatting with some members here. Jake no problem as i still havent ordered the rods, mains and exhaust valves and like you said there is alot of clean up too do. Tomorrow its supposed to be a high of 10 here and we will be going to pick and pull to see if i can find two exhaust cams and lifters so my own lifters will be ticking. I always have had chevrolet, cars and trucks. I just can not believe how deferant the caddys are built just the detail, fit and finish, every thing about the car and it is 12yrs old. Thanks for all the input and support from all on this forum and Jake I would have never ever worked on a nortstar or bought one with out YOU. I will keep taking pics as i go. Thanks to all, Joe

97EldoCoupe
01-22-11, 01:50 AM
Thank you Joe. I may want to talk to you in a little while regarding distributorship information. I need to fix the shipping issues and nothing- NOTHING will beat the speed of shipping within the same state. The customers and people on these forums who have stuck with me and shown me respect are my first pick for distributor opportunities, I hope I can make a difference in the Caddy world and show respect and gratitude in exchange. Face it, dealerships are not saving these cars from the scrap yard - it's all of the independent guys who have lower overhead and pay attention to detail; who are keeping these cars on the road where they belong. We have to work together. Dealerships help too; but according to book times and $100+/hr, it's just not worth it to many customers.

98eldo32v
01-22-11, 02:08 AM
Pictures are up in the Headgasket Failures and Fix section

ponyboyt
01-22-11, 04:03 AM
did he find cams? i still have those heads in my 98.... what was it... 25,000 km's i think.

JoeTahoe
01-22-11, 02:39 PM
Major score at pick a part,I got two really nice exhaust cams and 20 nice lifters for $44 out the door. Wife is very very happy. Looked at 2 SLS that said they had bad engines, took left side valve cover off and the lifters were really bad. Came across a really nice 99 Deville, sticker on the side said good engine so i took the left valve cover off and was like score. This Deville had drivers and pass air bags deployed, deer hide in the headlight opening really nice car i would give it a 10 in the sweet ride catogory. Someone really took good care of it. Would have liked to take the whole engine but it is 10 out and i just dont like the idea of laying under a car with welded rims for jack stads and also the time.

RippyPartsDept
01-22-11, 06:38 PM
just taking the heads probably would have been enough and been a bit easier on the install side of things too... but either way good score!

JoeTahoe
01-22-11, 09:19 PM
i thought about taking the heads but thats alot of work and if i had the time i would have taking the whole engine

JoeTahoe
01-27-11, 11:05 AM
I can seem to find the half case and oil pan TSB if someone could help me out. I have searched all over the site. I am probably just missing something but i cant seem to find it and I think I got it from the search once before.
Thanks, Joe

RippyPartsDept
01-27-11, 12:40 PM
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/117232-case-halves-reseal-fwd-rtv-sealant.html
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/136563-reuse-main-bearings.html

TSB #03-06-01-027 is mentioned in the second one breifly (first one is a copy of the original bulletin i think) ... currently there's an "A" attached to the end of the bulletin # which means there was some sort of revision made... if you want i can email you a copy

JoeTahoe
01-27-11, 01:43 PM
Thank You, Chris

JoeTahoe
01-29-11, 01:09 PM
who makes a good motor mount for a 99 STS I need the front and rear mounts, I see about every one has them but I would like some input on witch ones too stay away from if any and what ones have lasted. Should I only use GM mounts??
Thanks, Joe

RippyPartsDept
01-29-11, 01:15 PM
i don't know of any others besides the GM mounts... usually only the front will need replacement

JoeTahoe
01-29-11, 02:06 PM
my bad chris I was on fleebay and saw them. I know the front one is bad, but i have not really studied the rear one it looked split but i see in the pics it looks the same

RippyPartsDept
01-29-11, 04:56 PM
No problem... the front is the one that get's most of the abuse from the engine torque (i think)

JoeTahoe
02-04-11, 08:38 PM
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01420.jpg Northstar Performance on the left and stock on the right http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01423.jpg http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01424.jpg http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01433.jpg All holes had nice big chips http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01427.jpg nice clean hole http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01435.jpg

JoeTahoe
02-04-11, 09:00 PM
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01437.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01440.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01442.jpg http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01428.jpg Northstar Performance studs installed http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01447.jpg http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01448.jpg http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01449.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01450.jpg A big thank you Jake. Now just need some more funds to finish the old girl up

Ranger
02-04-11, 09:55 PM
I'm a little late to this party, but nice pics Joe. I love the crosshatch hone pattern in the 130,000 mile cylinders. That's what a little oil consumption will do for you.


Well, I run the cheapest oil I can in my cars (typically Farm and Fleet brand).
Fleet had a sale last year on their oil. I noticed it was SL so I bought 10 cases.


Sure blows up the high mileage "sludge" advertising, doesn't it !!!!!
Sure wish all the guys adding snake oil to "clean up the sludge" could see this (they will in the future).

maeng9981
02-05-11, 05:56 AM
Beautiful pictures, I can't wait until I do this job by myself.

RippyPartsDept
02-05-11, 08:59 AM
:yeah: ... i'm going to show my N* rebuilder on monday

JoeTahoe
02-05-11, 09:11 PM
it is just a amazing little motor. The thought that went into it. the wear in it reminds me of a Detroit Diesel with 500,000 on it. If GM would have figured out the headbolt and gaskets a little better i think one that was cared for would go atleast 300,000 miles with no major problems, probably the car would just rust away in the salt belt areas. Spent 3hrs today cleaning pistons and after that i do not see how any top end cleaner would have cleaned the rings on this engine. I just cant wait to drive it this spring. If any one needs any pics just ask i have a lot or i can take and post. I hate the way some people are haveing issues with jake if i was closer i would deff. help him with his work load. He is a young, very devoted person and also very smart with a Northstar powered Caddy

RippyPartsDept
02-05-11, 09:30 PM
please post as many pictures as you're willing to post...

i see you're using photobucket... do they have limits to how much you can post?
i use imageshack.us
you don't have to link the pictures to your account when you don't want to so effectively there is no limit to what they will host for you
(you don't even need an account - just download their upload application. it's really simple to use too
just right click any pictures you want to upload (or select them all then right click them and do it all in one fell swoop)
there's one middle step where you can resize, but the forum software here will resize for you, no need for that... let imageshack host the full image

Ranger
02-05-11, 10:08 PM
Hey Joe, just out of curiosity and for future reference, what kind of oil are you using (conventional or synthetic) and what is your change interval?

JoeTahoe
02-05-11, 10:44 PM
Ranger, dont know as I bought with blown headgasket. The oil was clean and it did have a wix filter on it. Still had dexcool too. But i am gonna be useing Rotella 10w30 also a napa/wix filter and green antifreeze as per jake.

JoeTahoe
02-05-11, 10:55 PM
and it is also getting that eye candy Corsa exhaust that sub. keeps talking about. Checked it out on youtube and still have goose bumps!!!

ThumperPup
02-05-11, 10:56 PM
joe i would go with a regular old convention oil no aditives in it for the first 5k but like i learned her also change the oil and filter after the first 500 miles
then after about 2 or 3 oil changes go with a synthetic or blend if you choose but dont start off with anyting up front cause it will be to slick and wotn stick ont he pistons or anyting to break in atleast this is what my mechanic told me and so far its be working great going for the 3rd oil change been 5k today

JoeTahoe
02-05-11, 11:15 PM
pup i am gonna stick with rotella 10w30 with flat tapped lifters and yes i will be changing at 500miles,1500miles and then at 3000miles with no additive. But jake talked about a GM oil suppliment that i might look into if any one has any comments about it I would love to here from you.

ThumperPup
02-05-11, 11:46 PM
not sure about the oil suplement
i just plan on going up one step at a time i think this is gona be the last conventional oil change after this im gona go to a synthetic blend semi for about another 10k then after that ill problaby go off to full synthetic
i know the one thing i liked about using synthetic is never having to add a clener or anyting to it

Submariner409
02-06-11, 06:40 PM
not sure about the oil suplement
i just plan on going up one step at a time i think this is gona be the last conventional oil change after this im gona go to a synthetic blend semi for about another 10k then after that ill problaby go off to full synthetic
i know the one thing i liked about using synthetic is never having to add a clener or anyting to it

Pup, His engine is different from yours (ours). His flat tappet cams and followers dictate an engine oil with more anti-scuff additive than our roller cam design. The Fleet and Marine SM/CI/CJ rated non-"starburst" oils fulfill that requirement.

Joe, Stick with the Rotella and you won't need to add either GM or a cam manufacturer's EOS (Engine Oil Supplement).

ThumperPup
02-06-11, 07:01 PM
today i went to NTB for a Oil Change 5k on car since engine was rebuilt
they kept trying to push me up to Full Synthetic saying that is what my car was built for it needs it im like no u just need to be able to charge me more they wanted 64 for oild chang eon full syn plus 7 dollars a qt per qt after that

i said no thanks i know what i need for right now
just a conventional oil they said well right now they only have the bulk oil the high mile oil the sythetic blend and full syn

i was like ok give me the bulk oil they kept syaing other stuff im like listen im not paying more than 40 dollars after taxes and disposal fees so if you wana give me a semi syn blend for 40 total inlduing the extra 1.75 qt in that price
then fine but im not paying 34 plus 6 pe qt plus disposal fee and taxes not spending 62 dollars all and all
they said well we can give you 10 dollars off and then a 10 dollar mail in
i said no iehtere the 19.99 bulk oil change or 40 dollars for the semi syn after tax and all
there shop manager finaly came up and said ok fine we will do it for that the shop back of house manager
then when they ring me up they say 52 dollrs and change this was the front of house manager i said well he said 42 even well u have an extra 1.75 qt but we dont sell just 1.75 so we charged you for 2 qt i said well thats not what i agreed on so im not doing that took 40 minutes for them to figure out what the heck to do and say fine ok 42 even
when i asked them so where is my other .25 of qt they said oh we have that on a shelf in the back i asked so you put that on the shelf where gona charge me for it not even give it back to me lol

ok now down to the point of this

what is the difrance between bulk oil and conventional oil ?

Submariner409
02-06-11, 07:16 PM
what is the difrance between bulk oil and conventional oil ?

In the U.S., bulk oil is normally packed in 55 gallon drums. "Conventional" (consumer) oil is packed in quarts and gallons. Both are exactly the same oil, whether the type is conventional, blend, or synthetic. You can run whatever type you want in your 2000 engine and it will not make one iota of difference in performance or engine life under your stated driving conditions.

ThumperPup
02-06-11, 07:51 PM
when our 2000 and up N's where built new did GM use a Synthetic or did they use a blend or just conventional ?

Submariner409
02-06-11, 08:00 PM
when our 2000 and up N's where built new did GM use a Synthetic or did they use a blend or just conventional ?

Who knows ??? Who cares ???

When our cars were built there were all 3 types of oil in use, and the service designations were SH, SJ and SL. I think that Corvette and other so-designated high performance engines used Mobil 1, but that's all history.

...............Pup, if you want to start another oil war thread, then do so - let's give this thread back to Joe Tahoe.

ThumperPup
02-06-11, 08:14 PM
Who knows ??? Who cares ???

When our cars were built there were all 3 types of oil in use, and the service designations were SH, SJ and SL. I think that Corvette and other so-designated high performance engines used Mobil 1, but that's all history.

...............Pup, if you want to start another oil war thread, then do so - let's give this thread back to Joe Tahoe.

ok sorry
about that didnt mean to get a oil war started sorry about that Joe

just shop was trying to tell me therre was no reason for my mechanic to say use conventional oil at first to set in the pistons and all i know they where full of it and jsut wanted to sell me the more exspensive oil but still
what a pain they where lol

JoeTahoe
02-06-11, 10:47 PM
no biggie guys, sub just conf. what i was already gonna do and he answerd my ? on additives, Thank you Sub

mhamilton
02-07-11, 09:48 AM
Rotella does still make a 10w30 oil? Who sells that? I was looking for that to use in my old sbc, but could only find 15w40. Even asked around and was told, "oh diesel engine oil only comes in 15w40" (right... ) so ended up using conventional 10w30 and EOS.

Not to prolong.... but to answer Pup's question, the later (2005+) rear drive N* engines specified Mobile 1 oil, but the 2000 N* came from the factory with conventional oil.

Submariner409
02-07-11, 11:55 AM
Rotella does still make a 10w30 oil?

Dig around in the Shell, Pennzoil, Quaker State (all the same company, SOPUS) and Chevron, even BP, Valvoline, Texaco oil spec websites. You can find fleet and marine SM/CI/CJ oils in a lot of stores, as well as truck dealers and some West Marine stores. Our local Western Auto franchise carries 3 different brands of 10W-30 fleet oil. The big truck stop 15 miles up U.S. 301 from here carries Rotella in 5 gallon pails.

For the latest and greatest in premium motor oils, surf C66 Racing's site up in Vendors ^^^. Brad's in the same business that I spent a 25 year career in.....

JoeTahoe
02-07-11, 12:20 PM
I could not find Rotella 10w30 localy, but i have a work account with Sopus directly and my shell supplier stocks it so I even got a great price

ThumperPup
02-07-11, 01:29 PM
wait so if i understand correctly is shell rottella a diesel oil ? or am i miss understanding this ?

mhamilton
02-07-11, 01:58 PM
Thanks Sub, I will look for those brands. I did used to get Valvoline 15w40 in 5 gallon buckets when my father was in the construction business, I'll have to find out if any of those others are sold or can be ordered locally. I would think so, with all the agriculture around here. But last time I looked for it, nobody seemed to know what I was talking about...


wait so if i understand correctly is shell rottella a diesel oil ? or am i miss understanding this ?

It is an oil specified for use in diesel (heavy duty) engines, it just means it has more/different additives than conventional car motor oil.

ThumperPup
02-07-11, 02:12 PM
Thanks Sub, I will look for those brands. I did used to get Valvoline 15w40 in 5 gallon buckets when my father was in the construction business, I'll have to find out if any of those others are sold or can be ordered locally. I would think so, with all the agriculture around here. But last time I looked for it, nobody seemed to know what I was talking about...



It is an oil specified for use in diesel (heavy duty) engines, it just means it has more/different additives than conventional car motor oil.

ok but its being used in cars that are not diesle engines i didnt know that would be ok or safe hmmm

JoeTahoe
02-07-11, 02:22 PM
pup,more zddp so better for flat tappet cams and lifters

AJxtcman
02-07-11, 02:24 PM
here is the bad news pictureshttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01416.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01417.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01418.jpg

I have a set of 4 CompCams I would let go

mtflight
02-07-11, 05:59 PM
PupFromCleveland:

Motor oil goes by a few standards some of which (like viscosity 10W30, 5W30 etc) are usually set by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) but the type of engine for which the oil is designed falls on the API or "American Petroleum Institute" classification (see figure below). C_ stands for commercial (means diesel), whereas S_ stands for Service (gasoline).
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/mtflight/dhs/zddp.gif

Look at the chart above, and pay attention to the second letter after the S (service aka gasoline) letter SH, SJ, SL, SM etc. These are API gasoline engine service categories. This means they are good for gasoline (non diesel) cars. These are supposed to be backwards compatible, but in reality we know the zinc content has been dropping.... so they aren't necessarily backwards compatible (as some have found out with worn cam lobes). The 92-99 Northstars were designed back when the oil had more of the zinc, as you can see on the chart.

If you look at Rotella T, for example, you will see there are various specifications and approvals somewhere on the back of the bottle. Specifically you will find the SM, SL, SJ, and SH even on their 10W30 (yes they make it... I've seen it at O'Reilly Auto parts). This means they are certified for gasoline engines that had that designation when they were built. Even normal non-diesel oils have these approvals on the back (the same exact ones). In summary this means that "diesel oil" typically MEETS or EXCEEDS the specifications of gasoline engines, as long as the S_ is on there. This means running it won't cause any harm, and is actually recommended if you want an oil that meets the specs of those that were available when the car was engineered.

This is the Rotella T page link with more info...it even has some pics of cam lobes showing wear etc.
http://www.shell.com/home/PrintFramework?siteId=rotella-en&FC3=/home/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/triple_protection_detail.html

See the API Motor Oil Guide...
http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/MOTOR_OIL_GUIDE_2010_120210.pdf

Of course it says SN is current and they make SM SL and SJ. SH and below is "OBSOLETE." It's likely that SN has even less zinc than SM etc.

Your car has 2000 Northstar, which means you don't have the flat tappets anyway, yours have roller finger followers so the reduced ZDDP isn't as huge of a deal.

I hope this helps clarify any doubts about using a "diesel oil" because as long as the S_ rating is in there it means it is also designed for use in gasoline engines.

JoeTahoe, wow very impressive project, kudos and thumbs up!

JoeTahoe
02-07-11, 06:06 PM
thank you mt i just need a money tree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ThumperPup
02-07-11, 06:13 PM
thansk for posting that helped out alot now i understand more better

AJxtcman
02-07-11, 06:21 PM
all 4 NIB CompCams $340
Set of NEW lifters $400
Lifters -- Part# L2273-4 -- 93-99 Hydraulic. Bucket. (4 pack).49.16

AJxtcman
02-07-11, 06:25 PM
I see they fit Saturn all the way back to 91.
So Does that mean they are Saturn lifters that Cadillac uses?

Submariner409
02-07-11, 07:15 PM
Something's funny - CompCams, in their 37mb online catalog, does not show any cams for any Northstar. Do they have a special catalog for Northstar ? - or is this NIB set of cams a regrind ?

ThumperPup
02-07-11, 07:45 PM
AJ clean up your PM i wanted to ask you something
but dont wnaa hi jack this thread you still got that fiero with the Northstar ?

AJxtcman
02-07-11, 08:17 PM
go to CompCams and search 99-999-3

Submariner409
02-07-11, 08:35 PM
That's either a second jobber marketed regrind or a T-shirt, depending on which Comp Cams 99-999-3 will open - 5 hits. ???

drewsdeville
02-07-11, 08:38 PM
Members on the S10 forums claim that part number is for the 2.2L 4 cylinder.

AJxtcman
02-07-11, 08:56 PM
What would you like to see SUB?????

Submariner409
02-08-11, 10:03 AM
...........a picture of the CompCams Northstar cams and the NIB CompCams box with ID.

I can't find the darn things anywhere, and CompCams and Google can't seem to come up with any help, either.

EDIT: Hah !! You already answered this over in the old "Northstar Cam Specs" thread. (We're back to last summer again................) Read the whole thread, troops - these cams are regrinds for something other than a PCM-controlled FWD Northstar daily driver VIN 9 or VIN Y pre-2000 engine.

EDIT # 2: The CompCams P/N 99-999-3 is a generic "Engine parts" number - looks like all sorts of stock and special work falls into this particular number. Look at the .050" lift specs for those two cams and you'll see that they're a fairly mild "street" regrind. Running durations of 212* and 224* are common. The high torque/low rpm cams I use in my Olds 455 engines for boats come in at durations (at .050") of 204 and 214 - just about 10 degrees less than these Comp units. It would be interesting to compare the posted total lobe lifts with the OEM Northstar lifts.

stoveguyy
02-08-11, 11:55 AM
i did not reseal my case when i did my heads. i wanted to get in/get out quick. a major refresh of motor is nice but how long will you keep car? making it nice for the next owner is ok i suppose. i put new rings in my 66 mustang and did a valve job. sure was easy compared to the northstar.

JoeTahoe
02-08-11, 12:08 PM
as you can tell by the time and money i have in this i am gonna keep it for a very long time. It is gonna be my summer time toy. I will have around $3000 and my time in it and i dont think i could find a toy for that amount. But I also have the tools, shop and time too do all this.

JoeTahoe
02-13-11, 07:32 PM
some more pics. http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01451.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01452.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01453.jpg

JoeTahoe
02-13-11, 07:50 PM
morehttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01455.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01456.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01457.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01458.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01459.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01460.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01461.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01462.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01463.jpg

Submariner409
02-14-11, 08:43 AM
Nice work. Mint heads. Check and double check the valve stem seal installation.

I'm gonna wait 'till someone asks "Hey, Joe - why did you pack the oil pump with vaseline ???"

(Is that the original Gerotor pack ?? It looks brand new.)

stoveguyy
02-14-11, 12:37 PM
did you mill the heads? sure are clean. you would think the squish area is where the carbon might build up and cause knock. i cleaned my heads very well. whose to say what they look like now. 3yrs later. i helped dad rebuild a 68 327 from vette. had major crud on valve stems. i spent a long time cleaning valves/heads and took it down to machine shop and they said all valves were too worn. had to buy new ones. new valve guides too.

Submariner409
02-14-11, 12:53 PM
Unless I miss my guess, those heads have been cleaned very well but not cut.

JoeTahoe
02-14-11, 01:06 PM
thanks guys and just carefully cleaned no mill work. Yes sub that is the 130,000 mile oil pump. Like I have said it looks like a big diesel with 500,000 miles on it. Awsome wear for gas engine. Exept for the cams and lifters, But I blame that on newer oils. If any one needs or wants a pic of something, now is the time to ask. Hopfuly I will be ordering more parts soon.

Ranger
02-14-11, 04:04 PM
did you mill the heads? sure are clean. you would think the squish area is where the carbon might build up and cause knock. i cleaned my heads very well. whose to say what they look like now. 3yrs later. i helped dad rebuild a 68 327 from vette. had major crud on valve stems. i spent a long time cleaning valves/heads and took it down to machine shop and they said all valves were too worn. had to buy new ones. new valve guides too.

That is exactly where it does build and is the cause of piston slap aka cold carbon rap.

Submariner409
02-14-11, 04:23 PM
thanks guys and just carefully cleaned no mill work. Yes sub that is the 130,000 mile oil pump. Like I have said it looks like a big diesel with 500,000 miles on it. Awsome wear for gas engine. Exept for the cams and lifters, But I blame that on newer oils. If any one needs or wants a pic of something, now is the time to ask. Hopfuly I will be ordering more parts soon.

You wanna move down to fishin' and boatin' country and build Olds 455's - 75% of the commercial oyster, fish, and crab boats in the upper bay run them.......I do 6 - 8 a year now. $6,500 a pop. (I net $3,500 or so)

JoeTahoe
02-14-11, 06:16 PM
I never knew that they used that in commercial fishing, It reminds me of the 2-stroke Detroit Diesels they used them in every thing. It didnt matter witch way it turned, if it fit it would run. I really miss them old 2-strokes in the coaches but they had there time. I think if I came down you would have to adopt me sub!!!

Submariner409
02-14-11, 07:20 PM
I never knew that they used that in commercial fishing, It reminds me of the 2-stroke Detroit Diesels they used them in every thing. It didnt matter witch way it turned, if it fit it would run. I really miss them old 2-strokes in the coaches but they had there time. I think if I came down you would have to adopt me sub!!!

GM 2-71, 3-71, 4-71, 6-71.............worth their weight in gold.

Shoulda' seen a blower-assisted GM V-16 submarine diesel - 1,700 hp coupled to a huge generator. 4 engine sets in 2 engine rooms. Diesel-electric drive to 4 main motors would push a 1600 ton fleet submarine to 21 knots surfaced. But, gawdamighty, did a GM diesel ever leak oil - the Enginemen used to pump it out of the bilge, centrifuge it, and pour it back in the engines. The Fairbanks FM-10 (10 cylinders, 20 pistons - figure that out) was a clean engine.

JoeTahoe
02-14-11, 07:33 PM
i have around the 71 and 92 series and the saying was if it isnt leaking its not running!! That fairbanks sounds cool. I have been around inline 6, 6v,8v,12v and 16v all I have to say is they are screamers but I still love all. Its what I learned on. Boy i bet you have some very good tales

Submariner409
02-15-11, 10:49 AM
i have around the 71 and 92 series and the saying was if it isnt leaking its not running!! That fairbanks sounds cool. I have been around inline 6, 6v,8v,12v and 16v all I have to say is they are screamers but I still love all. Its what I learned on. Boy i bet you have some very good tales

Joe, Google "uss pampanito virtual tour". Get into the page and start the tour - you mouse and drag and you can look at every square inch of a compartment. She has 4 FM-10 (Fairbanks-Morse) diesels - upper and lower crankshafts connected by the "vertical drive" so there are 2 pistons per cylinder: they meet in the middle and the fuel is injected into that "chamber". 1700 hp at 450 rpm (yes, 450. They idle at 90). The exact same engines that are in a diesel train A or B unit.

JoeTahoe
02-15-11, 02:30 PM
that is a cool site sub

JoeTahoe
02-17-11, 06:47 PM
next week UPS will be stoping here more than the mail man. Its x-mas in Feb.

JoeTahoe
02-22-11, 09:46 PM
All parts should be here by thursday. If any one has the y-mixer in the exhaust apart they should take a look at were the meet. Took me about a hr to remove over 1/2" of pipe that restricks the exhaust. Gonna be a very long weekend, I feel like a kid again.

98eldo32v
02-23-11, 02:28 AM
Yes. I've noticed that on the sts that I took apart.

The "Y" pipe was put together by cavemen. The smaller of the two pipe was just "shoved" into the other then welded with no concern of possible exhaust flow restriction.

I guess the factory figured you've got 275/300 hp, who cares if you're exhaust isn't perfect......

RippyPartsDept
02-23-11, 08:47 AM
yeah other members have reported this same exhaust restriction

weister42
02-23-11, 03:55 PM
yeah other members have reported this same exhaust restriction

Is this evident on the Devilles too? I've been thinking about a catback exhaust for years.

RippyPartsDept
02-23-11, 04:22 PM
i think so... my northstar guru tech says it's not common, but a handful of forum members have noticed it when they tear apart their engine to do their head gaskets... so it's worth looking into if you've got the time or are going to have the y-pipe off (or accessible) for some other reason

97EldoCoupe
02-23-11, 09:00 PM
I've seen a lot of crappily welded y-pipes. '98 STS's seem to be the worst (with the dual flex joint) but those '98's have y pipes constructed of larger diameter tubing. In '99 they went back to the single flex joint for the STS's and removed the flex-joint support from the cradle.

EDIT: I mean crappily constructed. one pipe just shoved into the other, no regard to turbulance and restriction.

98eldo32v
02-24-11, 05:23 AM
I've seen a lot of crappily welded y-pipes. '98 STS's seem to be the worst (with the dual flex joint) but those '98's have y pipes constructed of larger diameter tubing. In '99 they went back to the single flex joint for the STS's and removed the flex-joint support from the cradle.

EDIT: I mean crappily constructed. one pipe just shoved into the other, no regard to turbulance and restriction.

The 98"s had "larger" diameter tubing? Geez.

The mounting flange hole is pretty decent, but look "inside" the hole. There is a pipe inside that pipe, that is smaller than the opening.

Yet, to me this is nothing new. Must domestic vehicles are choked off through the exhaust system.

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 08:54 PM
got some more pics for allhttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01478.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01479.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01480.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01483.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01486.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01489.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01492.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01494.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01495.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01496.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01501.jpg

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 09:00 PM
stock exhausthttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01497.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01498.jpg Corsa eye and ear candy as sub says http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01500.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01499.jpg

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 09:13 PM
I am hopefull that I will have her running this weekend. All new durastop rotors and pads. Also all new steel brake lines. I would like to thank Northstar Performance and Jake for taking care of me. I called him today because the sealed Felpro gasket kit that he sent me was missing the spark plug tower seals and he is sending them to me. He is really the MAN with Northstar engines.
Thank every one on this forum for all your help, Joe

RippyPartsDept
02-28-11, 09:44 PM
nice... very nice

Submariner409
02-28-11, 10:13 PM
Yep, that's work you can be proud of. Know that the new CORSA will blow wisps of blue smoke for 10 minutes until all the die forming oil burns off. You're gonna be a happy camper.

Somebody, ask him what the red stuff all over the cams is............

JoeT, You may find that the CORSA "walks" a bit to one side. If it does, a few minutes with a couple of 5/8" s/s hose clamps on those muffler hanger rods will keep the system centered.

RippyPartsDept
02-28-11, 10:35 PM
Somebody, ask him what the red stuff all over the cams is............

i'll bite.

Joe, is that ATF you've poured all over your cams?

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 10:37 PM
thanks for the heads up sub

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 10:42 PM
i'll bite.

Joe, is that ATF you've poured all over your cams?

I am gonna let this one go and let sub answer, sub did ya see the white marks on the bolts and nuts

JoeTahoe
02-28-11, 11:16 PM
mabee someone can tell me all about this z-rating. My seville has z on door jam tire sticker so whats this mean, just no limiter or is there more??

RippyPartsDept
02-28-11, 11:22 PM
limiter is set higher ... good thing... but in reality are you really ever going to go that fast?

ThumperPup
02-28-11, 11:34 PM
be a happy camper.

Somebody, ask him what the red stuff all over the cams is............

JoeT, You may find that the CORSA "walks" a bit to one side. If it does, a few minutes with a couple of 5/8" s/s hose clamps on those muffler hanger rods will keep the system centered.

hey sub what do you mean when you say walks to the side
just curious for a heads up for when i get my system this summer

97EldoCoupe
02-28-11, 11:42 PM
I know Joe is smarter than to use ATF on the valvetrain components. That's going to be some type of very good assembly oil/lube - the white marks on the bolts is an assembly step - once torque is verified, you mark the bolts with paint marker - correct?

Joe this is work that I can honestly say meets the standards I've set in my shop, I take my hat off and bow in respect to what I see. Excellent work! :thumbsup:

98eldo32v
03-01-11, 01:35 AM
Excellent pictures Joe, and you did a fanatastic job on the reassembly and paint work of the engine.

I do have a couple or questions I hope you can answer. Did you order new main and rod bearing bolts or reused the old ones.

I see that you plastigauged the bearings. Did you order stock sized bearings(depending on the clearances of course) or did you use oversize bearings?

How hard was it to do the mid- seal?

I'm getting ready for this same sort of thing for my car, but was curiuos what was your experince in dealing with the bottom end. .

I truly don't wish to mess with it if I don't have too, but at the same time how often do you yank out your northstar?

I feel you did an excellent job with yours and wish you the best with it.

JoeTahoe
03-01-11, 08:31 AM
Thanks Chris I did not know if it did any thing else and it will probably scare me because I have been driving 4x4s for the last 20yrs!!!!
Jake you are correct on both and thank you I am a firm believer do it once and right the first time.
98eldo all new Clevite std rod, main bearings and GM rod bolts as per FSM says not to reuse. Also new GM rings and all exhaust valves and of corse Northstar Performance Studs!!!! The half case is not to bad every thing has to be really clean, new oil manifold and the gm sealer, There is alot of time on clean up. also you half to be carfull good about assembly. I hope this helps if you have any ? just ask on this forum and you will get a very good answer from a member lots of good people on here!!!

Submariner409
03-01-11, 08:45 AM
double post..........

Submariner409
03-01-11, 09:03 AM
That's going to be some type of very good assembly oil/lube - the white marks on the bolts is an assembly step - once torque is verified, you mark the bolts with paint marker

yeah, that ^^^

A Z tire rating is "above 149 mph", absent a service designation (W = 168 mph, Y = 186 mph). The car is limited only by drivetrain power vs. air and mechanical drag.

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 10:02 AM
yeah, that ^^^

A Z tire rating is "above 149 mph", absent a service designation (W = 168 mph, Y = 186 mph). The car is limited only by drivetrain power vs. air and mechanical drag.

Did Cadillac Put out Sevilles in W or y ratings ?
i thout the highest they put was a Z

97EldoCoupe
03-01-11, 10:06 AM
There were W-coded cars that I know of in 2002+ I saw one STS that was W-rated.

RippyPartsDept
03-01-11, 10:12 AM
Oh yeah, thanks for the clarification Sub

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 11:33 AM
There were W-coded cars that I know of in 2002+ I saw one STS that was W-rated.

wow ok that is going to be my mission every time i pass a dealer that has a 2002 or 2003 sts im going to stop and look on the door sticker
seriously

and when i find it ill post it on here cause i bet some forum member would want to buy it

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 11:35 AM
now did the dealeers charge more for a Z or w rated Seville sts
or did they not even know if it was or not
was there anyway for someone to order it as an option or did you just have to luck out and be at a dealer that had one in stock or that was willing to look threw all the codes and all ?

98eldo32v
03-01-11, 12:34 PM
Thanks Chris I did not know if it did any thing else and it will probably scare me because I have been driving 4x4s for the last 20yrs!!!!
Jake you are correct on both and thank you I am a firm believer do it once and right the first time.
98eldo all new Clevite std rod, main bearings and GM rod bolts as per FSM says not to reuse. Also new GM rings and all exhaust valves and of corse Northstar Performance Studs!!!! The half case is not to bad every thing has to be really clean, new oil manifold and the gm sealer, There is alot of time on clean up. also you half to be carfull good about assembly. I hope this helps if you have any ? just ask on this forum and you will get a very good answer from a member lots of good people on here!!!


Thanks for the info Joe.

So, std main and rods bearings, new connecting rod bolts, new rings but I'm curious why you needed new exhaust valves? Were your exhaust valves beyond the point of being reusuable?

The main bearing bolts were reused?

I wouldn't do a headgasket job without Jake's studs, that's the only why to go for me on these engines.

Clean up, is defintely understandable. One spec of dirt or unremoved gasket material can cause havoc at start up time and leave one aggravated.

Thanks for the reply.

Again, wishing you the best with it.

Excellent job.........

JoeTahoe
03-01-11, 03:36 PM
the exhaust valves were pitted really bad and there was no way they would lapp in, all of the intake valves looked great and all lapped in really nice so did the new exhaust valves. Mabee a machine shop could have cleaned them up, but I dont trust many with out me there. I have $225 dollars + valve seals and my time in the heads. But I also own a machinist flat edge so I know they are true.
According to the FSM the main bolts can be reused.
Agreed on the studs. I bought this caddy with overheating issues because of Jake. If it wasnt for him and the 01 ESC I fixed last summer I would have never looked for one. Thats right I intentionally bought a 99 STS with overheating issues and with the known fix and this wonderfull forum. So when Jake was saying he was done I was like, what the h*** am I gonna do with this thing. I probably would have done norms inserts but I would not of been happy Knowing about the studs

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 05:55 PM
stock exhausthttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01497.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01498.jpg Corsa eye and ear candy as sub says http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01500.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01499.jpg

Joe where did you order yours from what was the cost

i been looking so far cheapest i have found is Summit auto racing and parts

JoeTahoe
03-01-11, 06:07 PM
Amazon $1154 shipped to my door is the cheapest i could find

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 06:32 PM
cool thanks

im thinking in June or July ill pull this off or put it on lol

just a few things with the body first
im thinking that a full color change just more then i want to
so going to have the caddy gone over with the same color it has now same paint code but add a little more metallic to the pain for a better glitter and silver shine in it little more sparkle is what im going for i think
and have to decide weather im going to have the hood sandblasted or spend the money on a new hood

only thing against new hoods is unless i spend the 700 or 800 for a OEM hood
i cant find anyone that has a aftermarket hood that does not have a ornament hole in it witch i don't understand
our Seville did not come with orinman or crest on the hood it was on the grill so why would a company make a aftermarket hood with a Ornament hole beats me lol

so how long before we see picks of it all bad togehter how much more time you got to put in you think

JoeTahoe
03-01-11, 10:07 PM
well I got the engine back in the cradle tonight and all I have to say is the front and rear mounts are a pain even with the cradle on the floor. Two months is a little long (Had a bit of memory fade, glad I had the FSM) Tomorrow I am gonna get the starter and intake on it and hopefully I can start the trans. T.C.C solinoid replaced and trans. serviced. I am thinking this weekend I might have her running if all goes good.

ThumperPup
03-01-11, 10:32 PM
cool cool take some audio of the corsa running :)

Racer704
03-02-11, 11:03 AM
Yep, that's work you can be proud of. Know that the new CORSA will blow wisps of blue smoke for 10 minutes until all the die forming oil burns off. You're gonna be a happy camper.

Somebody, ask him what the red stuff all over the cams is............

JoeT, You may find that the CORSA "walks" a bit to one side. If it does, a few minutes with a couple of 5/8" s/s hose clamps on those muffler hanger rods will keep the system centered.

OK Sub I will bite and say its Comp Cams Red engine assembly lube ,i know it wasnt ATF as it would be very hard to detect after applying it...

I also use on head stud threads a product from Catipiller we call peanut butter.Best I have seen yet ...also does a great job on aluminum heads and steel washers....


Great post Joe and a GREAT job your doing...much RESPECT

RippyPartsDept
03-02-11, 11:31 AM
Ok, I hope you guys didn't think I was serious when I asked if it was ATF...:stirpot:

JoeTahoe
03-02-11, 12:12 PM
Chris we all new what you were saying. Its a permatex assembly lube. Thanks for all the complments should have more pics tonight. Detroit Diesel uses that same peanut butter and its great stuff.

ejguillot
03-02-11, 12:27 PM
well I got the engine back in the cradle tonight and all I have to say is the front and rear mounts are a pain even with the cradle on the floor. Two months is a little long (Had a bit of memory fade, glad I had the FSM) Tomorrow I am gonna get the starter and intake on it and hopefully I can start the trans. T.C.C solinoid replaced and trans. serviced. I am thinking this weekend I might have her running if all goes good.

You're doing fine, my STS project took 2 months as well. (At least my valves and heads were in pretty good shape, no pitting and the valves cleaned up nicely with an ultrasonic parts cleaner).

97EldoCoupe
03-02-11, 02:06 PM
Hey Chris I knew you were not serious :)

RippyPartsDept
03-02-11, 03:51 PM
:cool2:

ThumperPup
03-02-11, 04:34 PM
i would not know what to guess i would have jsut guess that joe cut himself a few many time working on the engine so it had blood in it lol

naw seriously i was curious what it was

Racer704
03-02-11, 05:15 PM
No Chris i didnt think you were serious,I just didnt see a answer to what Sub & Joes said.

Joe I have seen the DD peanut butter also...same stuff I am sure made for both of them by a large company...as i said great work....

JoeTahoe
03-02-11, 10:11 PM
some more pics http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01502.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01503.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01504.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01506.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01507.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01508.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01509.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01510.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01512.jpg

JoeTahoe
03-02-11, 10:27 PM
now on to the T.C.C solenoid http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01505.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01514.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01515.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01516.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01517.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01518.jpg

97EldoCoupe
03-02-11, 11:59 PM
Glad to see you have ratchet wrenches (lifesaver when you're working on these!) Joe! Good ones too- I have a set of flex-heads, could not do my job without them.

Did you get the cam cover o-ring seals already? Pretty decently quick! Maybe I'll start using USPS/Canada Post for other shipments then too- I had the biggest run-in of my life with UPS today. That company needs a complete overhaul. 3 stud kits lost in less than 90 days! Someone must be collecting....

94CaddyConcours
03-03-11, 06:09 AM
I applaud your work. :worship:

JoeTahoe
03-03-11, 08:30 AM
Jake, I have not seen them yet but when I do I will let you know. I have the Gear Wrench reversable I love them but I do tear them up, just take them to Napa and no prob. with warrenty. Thanks 94Caddy

mhamilton
03-03-11, 09:58 AM
I see the EBTCM stays with the cradle when you drop it... so when you put that back in do you need a Tech2 to do an ABS bleed? Or does it work with just a plain old full-system bleed?

Are you doing the torque converter and hub seals as well as the solenoid? Or was that just preventative maintenance?

JoeTahoe
03-03-11, 10:59 AM
I always just gravity bleed and the plain old way on and off the brakes the hole system is dry now, all new steel lines. T.Q input seal, solenoid and filters are all I am doing at this time.

tateos
03-03-11, 12:37 PM
Lots and lots of nice pics - thank you!

Looks like a Rustoleum epoxy paint floor? Looks just like mine. I have beat up on it pretty bad for 9 years, including a N* HG project, and it still looks pretty good. I will probably re-coat it someday, but it's still totally acceptable for now.

JoeTahoe
03-03-11, 01:26 PM
correct on the paint and its been 4 years its held up better than i thought it would.

JoeTahoe
03-04-11, 09:23 PM
:thumbsup:jake I recieved the gaskets today, so tomorrow I will be installing cradle back into the car

JoeTahoe
03-05-11, 10:53 PM
:bouncy: Its a ALIVE and sounds AWSOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

maeng9981
03-06-11, 01:57 AM
Congratulations! I cannot wait until I finish my 00 Seville.

ejguillot
03-06-11, 08:20 PM
From one who knows what you went through: Congratulations! Doesn't it feel great to hear the first engine start?

JoeTahoe
03-06-11, 10:01 PM
just posted a video of exhaust up in seville and eldo. area

JoeTahoe
03-07-11, 06:01 PM
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01519.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01520.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01521.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01522.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01523.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01524.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01525.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01529.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01530.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01531.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01532.jpg

mtflight
03-07-11, 06:05 PM
Congratulations on a fantastic job and a great garage! Just a quick note to let you know I've really enjoyed the pictures you've been taking along the way.

RippyPartsDept
03-07-11, 08:58 PM
:yeah: ditto

Racer704
03-08-11, 08:07 AM
Hi Joe, congrats on a great job. I also like to thank you for taking the time to share all of this with us in such detail. I am sure we all have learned something no matter how small...once again Congrats and Thank You

98eldo32v
03-08-11, 10:27 AM
WOW, it's all back together and running!!!!! Fanatastic....Congratulations!!!!

New exhaust system too......nice. I bet the motor and exhaust system will get a work out once the motor breaks "in".

Enjoy it Joe.......

JoeTahoe
03-08-11, 11:53 AM
thanks too all

vincentm
03-08-11, 12:43 PM
Damn, this thread is the bomb, thanks for the pics and info, this will definitely help me.

JoeTahoe
03-08-11, 03:54 PM
she does just purr. All I have left to do is bleed the brakes and replace the a/c compressor and vac./charge the system. And wait for all this snow and salt to be gone. cant wait!!!!!!!

Submariner409
03-08-11, 06:24 PM
JoeT, may I save and use those exhaust pictures ? I never did get the full system while my car was up in the air.................

JoeTahoe
03-08-11, 08:31 PM
they are yours sub, I have another ?? when I bought the car you had to kind of slap the shifter to get it out of park and it still does this. sometimes it does not release and you need to mess around with it. I do Know it has a interlock with the brake pedal. I was just thinking someone on here might know some ideas before i pull the center counsel apart

ThumperPup
03-08-11, 09:08 PM
JoeT, may I save and use those exhaust pictures ? I never did get the full system while my car was up in the air.................

hey sub right on the Y-pipe int he middle it looks like there are 2 eyes looking out back under the car
waht are those ?

ThumperPup
03-08-11, 09:08 PM
hey joe great job man
congrats

RippyPartsDept
03-08-11, 09:19 PM
pup i think they're trailing arm end points (hinge point)
maybe not trailing arm.. i forget the correct name... take a look at one of the online catalogs (compnine/gmpg/etc)

vincentm
03-08-11, 09:54 PM
they are yours sub, I have another ?? when I bought the car you had to kind of slap the shifter to get it out of park and it still does this. sometimes it does not release and you need to mess around with it. I do Know it has a interlock with the brake pedal. I was just thinking someone on here might know some ideas before i pull the center counsel apart

Here's a quick google result, dunno if it'll help.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/27720-98-sts-stuck-park.html

vincentm
03-08-11, 09:55 PM
they are yours sub, I have another ?? when I bought the car you had to kind of slap the shifter to get it out of park and it still does this. sometimes it does not release and you need to mess around with it. I do Know it has a interlock with the brake pedal. I was just thinking someone on here might know some ideas before i pull the center counsel apart

Here's a quick google result, dunno if it'll help.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/27720-98-sts-stuck-park.html

Racer704
03-09-11, 09:19 AM
[QUOTE=submariner409;2520534]JoeT, may I save and use those exhaust pictures ? I never did get the full system while my car was up in the air.................[/QUOT

I see what Pup is saying.looks like the Geico TV ad...lol:)

ThumperPup
03-09-11, 09:42 AM
[QUOTE=submariner409;2520534]JoeT, may I save and use those exhaust pictures ? I never did get the full system while my car was up in the air.................[/QUOT

I see what Pup is saying.looks like the Geico TV ad...lol:)


i was thinking it was one of 2 things Eye's for some odd reason not sure why lol
or maybe horns so he could scare the S##t out of who ever is behind him riding his tail end lol

mhamilton
03-09-11, 09:57 AM
Saw your video of it running in the other post, very nice! Looks like it's running extra-smooth :)

You had mentioned all new brake lines, did you bend your own? Do you have any pictures? I want to eventually replace one of the lines that runs from the EBTCM to the rear on my car (rusted where it goes through that plastic holder under the driver's seat). Were there any complex bends, or is it all pretty straightforward?

JoeTahoe
03-09-11, 10:09 AM
I do all my own bends with rolled line and a tubing bender, also flare all. I have a flaring tool that does every thing even push connect. I will take some pics tonight it was very easy with the cradle out.

Submariner409
03-09-11, 10:36 AM
hey sub right on the Y-pipe int he middle it looks like there are 2 eyes looking out back under the car
waht are those ?

Rear suspension lower control arm adjustment link eccentrics - the links work exactly like the front tie rods except they set rear "toe in". The eccentrics you see can be loosened and rotated, thus changing the angle of the lower control arm and therefore the rear "toe".

RippyPartsDept
03-09-11, 11:40 AM
yeah... that's what i was trying to say

97EldoCoupe
03-09-11, 11:47 AM
Joe I'm in need of a new flaring tool. Brand/model # of yours if you have a minute?

JoeTahoe
03-09-11, 11:54 AM
I will get a pic of it when i get home tonight and the brake lines on the car.

Submariner409
03-09-11, 02:03 PM
..........takes a double (upset) flare - not single pass.

JoeTahoe
03-09-11, 02:35 PM
sub this does single pass on all but double flare. I did get it from Snap-on under the blue point name. I know that I have seen it under diff. names. It is a hydraulic tool in a plastic blow molded case. Mac tools AC71475 is very close if not the same

ThumperPup
03-09-11, 03:26 PM
Rear suspension lower control arm adjustment link eccentrics - the links work exactly like the front tie rods except they set rear "toe in". The eccentrics you see can be loosened and rotated, thus changing the angle of the lower control arm and therefore the rear "toe".


i guess im still a bit confused i know the toe has to do with the alighment corect ?

just confused about how come you have them like that and not like every other one i seen i gues i just don't understand exactly

Submariner409
03-09-11, 04:14 PM
??? They aren't rusty and covered with road grime ?? They're exactly the same rear lower control arm adjustment mechanism as in every other Seville body. (Maybe the Devilles and Eldorados, too.)

Go back and digest the same shot in JoeTahoe's exhaust system pictures. The same adjustment eccentrics are just under the rear bumper apron, just above the exhaust Y, and you can see the links that go out to the lower control arms.

mhamilton
03-09-11, 04:35 PM
??? They aren't rusty and covered with road grime ?? They're exactly the same rear lower control arm adjustment mechanism as in every other Seville body. (Maybe the Devilles and Eldorados, too.)

Another one of those things that changes year-to-year and model-to-model... 98+ Seville and 2000+ Deville got the new rear suspension you guys have. Eldo stayed with the old design to the end. There's actually mention of the new rear susp in one of the Seville brochures, how it's lighter and faster responding.

JoeTahoe
03-09-11, 06:25 PM
here is the flaring tool
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01534.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01535.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01536.jpg
and here are my lines
http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01538.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01539.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01540.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01541.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01543.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01544.jpghttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01545.jpg
and this is for thumperpup I know she is not pretty under there but the salt does take its toll. I am gonna clean her up and paint with por-15 or chassis saver. She has sat for a year now but she is still a sweetharthttp://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/joemacali/DCP01546.jpg

mhamilton
03-09-11, 07:45 PM
Thanks so much for posting those! Maybe one of these days I'll get motivated to replace the rusty sections on my car. So there's no problem getting lengths of pipe to go from the front to rear in one piece? Though I see your STS line routing is quite different than my Eldo... my brake and fuel lines take the driver's side to the rear.

As an aside, what are the in-line cylinders (with the blue end) going to the rear? Are those pressure reducers? I know I have them on my car as well.

ejguillot
03-09-11, 08:56 PM
Those pics sure show some nasty salt damage! I'm glad I live in Tampa, FL (My car was originally a NY car, but must not have been driven much in the winter, and it came to FL at about the 3 year mark.)

Joe, nicely done! Now do we get to see a video clip of you doing a WOT, hearing the northstar sing through the corsas?

JoeTahoe
03-09-11, 10:02 PM
after 1500 miles then we will see and hear what she will do!!!!!!!!!!!

ThumperPup
03-10-11, 02:11 AM
after 1500 miles then we will see and hear what she will do!!!!!!!!!!!

i think jake or maybe it was my mechanic that told me to hold off on any heavy beating untill after the first 3k

joe don't forget change your oil after the first 500 miles

also drive it likes its new don't just leave it on crews break it in make sure to fluctuate the speeds and not just keep it steady on the highway
this will help to break the engine in

but im sure you already know this :)


yeah i noticed that salt damage

i bet i got it up under my seville also just havent looked

anyone know any ways to get that treated can ziebart do that or is it there for good ?

JoeTahoe
03-10-11, 08:23 AM
got my shifter working great. Comes out of park with no effort now. Just pulled the center counsel and lubed the park lock cable solenoid with WD-40 and worked it a few times works great rite now.

JoeTahoe
03-10-11, 08:30 AM
rust is the automobile cancer, you can cover it up but it will return. Damb salt any way they use it like table salt around here. This is why I paid $400+ for a flaring tool. But I will get her all cleaned up under her skirt she just needs a bath and a little TLC under there.

Submariner409
03-10-11, 09:17 AM
If you Ziebart a rusty car all it does is cover it up with a waxy petroleum coating. The process removes NO rust and makes everything under the car even more impossible to work on.

97EldoCoupe
03-10-11, 10:01 AM
Oh I love working on the cars from Calgary. They look like brand new underneath, just like the ones from Atlanta, southern Ohio, etc. I will not miss the cars from the rust-belt.

97EldoCoupe
03-10-11, 10:03 AM
Excellent work on the brake lines Joe. I remember doing that to a '94 out of Niagara Falls. Believe it or not, '94's have them routed in a harder-to-reach area.

JoeTahoe
03-10-11, 10:39 AM
salt sucks, I will spend some time cleaning her up and power wash the underside than hit with Chassis saver on the bad spots. Then I will paint with either a ppg or omni single stage color that it is suppose to be.

97EldoCoupe
03-10-11, 11:23 AM
Joe - if you're interested in taking on a HG job, a 98 STS, I had a customer just call me looking for someone who can do the repair from Allentown, PA. He's about three hours away.

I know you have a private shop for yourself but if you're interested, email me. Phone systems are down right now (I can call out but I cannot receive) - info@northstarperformance.com

ThumperPup
03-10-11, 01:11 PM
darn so i guess im out of luck with the salt damge under mine no way to get it out

JoeTahoe
03-12-11, 06:02 PM
drove it today just a little bit as no insurance and no plates all i have to say is awsome car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ThumperPup
03-13-11, 12:37 AM
are you nuts taking it out on the road with no INS and no plates ?
or was it in a private lot ?

97EldoCoupe
03-13-11, 12:56 AM
Joe knows what he's doing. He wouldn't take it out on a public road without plates / insurance :)

You will love that STS Joe. These cars drive/ride like a dream.

jordan00escalade
03-13-11, 04:22 AM
Outstanding.. took a while but well worth the time

JoeTahoe
03-13-11, 11:13 AM
thumperpup I whont tell if you dont, I am in a very very remote area and I only put 1/2 mile on it

ThumperPup
03-13-11, 05:06 PM
thumperpup I whont tell if you dont, I am in a very very remote area and I only put 1/2 mile on it

I won't tell i promise but
that is one thing that i am adamint about i have my best friend who was riding his bike and one day someone hit him no insurance and well he had no heath insurance
so now he is in a state facility getting the cheapest worst care posible but still not being abused in any way so nothing anyone can do

JoeTahoe
03-13-11, 07:11 PM
Hey Jake I have a friend that owns a landscape company. He has two 05 Ford F350 one is a dually with dump bed and the other is single wheel both have plows and 6.0 Powerstrokes. Now get this both failed headgaskets at 50,000 miles. Now I have herd rumors going around that the Ford Dealer charged $6000 each. Now this is rumors but if that is true, holy crap. Makes a Northstar sound like a dream car. I know the 6.0 powerstroke has had a headgasket problem but $6000 thats a lot of money to fork out on a 6yr old truck that should easaly go 200,000. I beileve they have a 5yr-100,000 mile warranty. Just a thought, Joe

Speedygman
03-13-11, 07:39 PM
Joe,
Remember that in some cases they have to remove the cab of the truck to work on the engine. A lot of hours.

ThumperPup
03-13-11, 07:46 PM
Hey Jake I have a friend that owns a landscape company. He has two 05 Ford F350 one is a dually with dump bed and the other is single wheel both have plows and 6.0 Powerstrokes. Now get this both failed headgaskets at 50,000 miles. Now I have herd rumors going around that the Ford Dealer charged $6000 each. Now this is rumors but if that is true, holy crap. Makes a Northstar sound like a dream car. I know the 6.0 powerstroke has had a headgasket problem but $6000 thats a lot of money to fork out on a 6yr old truck that should easaly go 200,000. I beileve they have a 5yr-100,000 mile warranty. Just a thought, Joe


when i picked up the seville from having the fuel pump replaced
i asked my Mechanic what the single most exspensive repair he did
he said he repaired 2 things on one truck totaling over 12000 dollars after taxs and all
it was a truck thats all i knwo i think he said desile something another
he said sorry your not the top but im the second top lol

ThumperPup
03-13-11, 07:48 PM
Joe,
Remember that in some cases they have to remove the cab of the truck to work on the engine. A lot of hours.

but wouldnt a F350 be the same as doing the engine on a F150 i know they dont have to remove the cab on that atleast it hink they don't i seen one at a shop few months back having a engine replaced
i know the motors and drivetrains are difrant but body is the same

JoeTahoe
03-13-11, 08:32 PM
no i am pretty sure on F250 and up including the Excursion they have to remove the cab or body to pull the engine. That is still a lot of money and it is only 6yrs old the last time i checked a diesel in a pickup it was a $7500 option and that was before the PDF and DEF epa regs. I would like to see what it will cost when the salt gets to it. I dont know if they have to remove the cab to get the heads off. I do know the engine sits quite far under the cab on the fords. Its just amazing what stuff is custing to get fixed and people are junking a car with a $50,000 sticker price for a fix thats out there for $2000. Around here you cant touch a good car for $2000 after the cash for clunkers scam

Speedygman
03-14-11, 01:23 AM
Diesel, Turbo, plumbing that they can't get to with cab installed?

ThumperPup
03-14-11, 11:03 AM
i was just doing some googling and this is what i found couldn't find the reason why though

late 03 and up diesels are the only ones required to remove the cab and i goggled with F350 so im asuming they are just talking about Ford

AJxtcman
03-14-11, 12:15 PM
I can have the cabs off in about an hour

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Duramax/Tar%20Heel%202010/2010-09-29113137.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Trucks/2010-10-09115704.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Trucks/1-26-11%20Lifters/1-26-11Lifters_US.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Trucks/1-27-11%20Cam%202007%20Tahoe/1-27-1107TahoeCam.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Trucks/2009%20Cam%201-17-11/2009Cam.jpg

I even take them off of Colorado's just to change the head :thumbsup:

ThumperPup
03-14-11, 12:18 PM
is it the same procdure to lift the body of a sedan up of its frame ?
wow after seeing that im begining to think
maybe just buy a head gasket riden seville for like 1000 in the color i want and just drope the body on the old drive line lol

Destroyer
03-14-11, 10:42 PM
is it the same procdure to lift the body of a sedan up of its frame ?
wow after seeing that im begining to think

It's about time..........

ThumperPup
03-14-11, 11:23 PM
It's about time..........

hey im just thinking if its that simple why spend 5 grand for a good paint job
when i could just get a body from a bad car and look for the crimson pearl that i want
could take any body from a 2003 or 04 perhaps and then i would have a newer car worth more and not be looseing out by spending money to have a paint job doen
but im thinking this is just a pipe dream
ill probably have the car sprayed the same color but have them add some more metalic in for a little more glitter shot

92Deville
03-22-11, 08:15 PM
Joe, you said you had to replace the A/C compressor in your car. I was just curious what the problem was with it.

JoeTahoe
03-22-11, 11:13 PM
the high temp switch on the compressor was leaking and I could not find any parts to service it. I also figured it is 12yrs old and 130000 miles. Also replaced the orfice and accumulator

ThumperPup
03-22-11, 11:17 PM
the high temp switch on the compressor was leaking and I could not find any parts to service it. I also figured it is 12yrs old and 130000 miles. Also replaced the orfice and accumulator

did you end up going with a new ac compressor or fine a decent used one

JoeTahoe
03-22-11, 11:41 PM
Compressor, orfice and accumulator all from AC Delco got a good hook up with a old buddy $380 out the door for all.

JoeTahoe
03-28-11, 10:49 PM
This weather is gonna kill me. I just sit in it like a school boy. I might have to put it on the road before good weather, I can't wait to drive this thing!!!!!!!!!!

ThumperPup
03-28-11, 11:20 PM
yeah the weather is teasing us in ohio also this past week lol

ternstes
04-02-11, 09:15 PM
Hey Joe,

How did you clean the head and block surfaces so well? I have some stubborn areas that just will not come off no matter how hard I scrub with a rag and solvent.

JoeTahoe
04-02-11, 10:01 PM
I used hot water power washer, brake clean and emery cloth. But don't forget this was a total rebuild so it did not mater what I used. DO NOT USE scotch pads they leave very fine particals were you do not want them and can lead to major engine faliure.

ThumperPup
04-03-11, 08:07 AM
the first HG job i had on the SLS
i remember the shop used about 5 or 6 can's bottles of brake cleaner and rasor blades very carfully to get it cleaned like brand new

JoeTahoe
04-11-11, 10:13 PM
Put 50 miles on it tonight All I have to say is what a awsome ride. Corsa exhaust sounds sweet just the perfect sound for me. Temp gauge stayed at 12 most of the time went past 12 but never to 1 and came right back to 12. Only have one problem as of now. Once out of every 5 stops when in gear it stalls, starts right back up. Car idles like a brand new car and never misses a beat going down the road. It has been parked since last june and half a tank of fuel, mabee old gas is the stalling problem. I did fill it up with 93 octane so I will see how it goes tomorrow and check to see if it has any codes. MIL light never came on so I dont think it is a sensor issue. But just the short drive I did tonight I will say this it was deff. worth the $6000 and labor I have in it AWSOME CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RippyPartsDept
04-11-11, 10:18 PM
nice... got any pictures yet?

ThumperPup
04-11-11, 10:28 PM
wow didn't know you put so much into just parts
you did all the work right ?
i can see 1200 for the corsa then price of studs and gaskets tranny rebuild kit right ?

what els was so darn much that it added up to 6k i know you spend what like 1200 on the car itself ?

guess im not the only crazy one around with a love for the caddy

id bet if you had to pay someone els to do all that work it would probably jack the price up to around 10k ? wow

JoeTahoe
04-11-11, 10:49 PM
lots of new parts had it touched up too. lots of new parts on a $1200 12yr old car with a 131000miles but I know what I have and it has been a fun and I would do it again!!

JoeTahoe
04-11-11, 10:54 PM
Chris I am gonna have the wife take a video of me taking off so every one can hear that awsome Corsa

JoeTahoe
04-12-11, 10:57 AM
I have a ?? will a U1300, Class 2 communication short to ground cause a stall. I am at work and FSM are at home so I just thought I would ask and the only other code is P1599 but I already new that because it does stall

RippyPartsDept
04-12-11, 11:20 AM
Chris I am gonna have the wife take a video of me taking off so every one can hear that awsome Corsa

NIcE :bouncy:

tateos
04-14-11, 10:01 PM
Let's go with the video!

JoeTahoe
04-14-11, 10:33 PM
gonna try this weekend

ThumperPup
04-15-11, 12:48 PM
hey its the wekeend already or almost lol if you count friday as a weekend so come on post it damm it post it
video video video video video with audio audio audio LOL

vincentm
04-15-11, 01:30 PM
hey its the wekeend already or almost lol if you count friday as a weekend so come on post it damm it post it
video video video video video with audio audio audio LOL


I echo this request, echo this request echo this request request request

STSS
04-15-11, 04:04 PM
Man, you two need to develop some hobbies....