: 4.8 LSx swap into 87 Brougham



shrike77
01-16-11, 02:09 PM
So it is a verrrrrrrrrrry slow project but it is the first one I am doing. Anyways it's a 4.8 Vortec into a 1987 Brougham. Right now I only did the mounts so the engine sits in the bay. I hope the project will be finished by next summer (maybe no A/C by then but at least I hope it will run). Still did not find a job yet so money is tight too.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/cadillac%20vortec/100_5127.jpg

shrike77
01-16-11, 02:45 PM
I hope you guys don't mind me posting a link to the site where I am giving more details about the project. Maybe this will help anyone trying to attempt this and who's a newbie as I am.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1374444-cadillac-1987-1999-4-8-vortec.html#post14368317

outsider
01-16-11, 06:27 PM
nice man!

jayoldschool
01-16-11, 07:41 PM
Gotta have AC on a Cadillac!

The "no budget" theme will keep you innovating. Keep us posted!

BTW, do you want me to change your post title to something like "4.8 LSx swap into 87 Brougham"? I bet you will get lots more interest...

csbuckn
01-16-11, 09:16 PM
Nice, have you figured out the fuel injection part yet? What tranny? What did the motor come out of? That's gonna be a fun one to drive when you get done.

shrike77
01-16-11, 09:18 PM
Thanks guys,

jayoldschool, it is a very good idea. It will be better for people who do a search on that topic.

And for sure I got to have A/C and cruise. But if I cannot have them by this summer, it will most probably be my winter project.

shrike77
01-16-11, 09:32 PM
The engine comes from a 1999 Silverado. DO NOT buy a 4x4 transmission thinking you can convert it to 2wd as I did. It is a whole transmission rebuild job you are looking at since you got to switch the whole shaft in order to have it converted from 4wd to 2wd.

Ideally you would buy the engine and transmission and ECU plus wiring that go together. I had to buy another transmission from a 1999 Camaro.

So for FI I will use the computer that came with the truck. the transmission as I said, it is a 4l60e from a 1999 V8 Camaro. You can either buy a harness from a couple of vendors or modify it yourself. Instructions can be found on the net, I am not sure if I can link other sites. If it is ok I will.

You can also buy any LSX engine as jayoldschool says. But there are details that change as for example accessories pulleys or oil pans.

Also you would need to reflash the ECU, probably new exhaust, luckily I was able to fit the exhaust manifolds that came with the engine. On Caprices apparently you cannot and you need headers, more power but more money too. I could not afford them

You need to shorten the drive shaft if you go with the 4l60E. The advantage is the transmission is controller by the ECU and shifting points are changed from the software.

You of course need to adapt the electrical harness for the engine to the one on the car.

You need to also modify the transmission crossmember if you go with the 4l60E. I think the 4l60e is about 3 in longer than the 200r. BUt I THINK (still have to verify) that you can swap the transmission mounts between them.

You need an external fuel pump if your caddy is carb'd or to swap engine tanks with one from a FI car so you can run a higher pressure pump for the FI. Or if you are ingenious you can try to modify your tank to accpet another pump.

Other than that I dunno, you need o2 sensors and some other details.

You probably need less money for gas but it would be a good idea to upgrade brakes and suspension (things for which I don't have the money).

jayoldschool
01-16-11, 10:29 PM
Get a tank complete with pump from a 94-96 Caprice/Roadmaster/Cadillac. It will bolt right in to your car, and has the right pressure pump for you. You can use all the fuel lines, too. Should be dirt cheap at a U pull it yard, if they haven't punched it!

shrike77
01-16-11, 11:59 PM
Thanks, I was thinking of that. When I get to that point I consider either buying the whole tank as you say or installing the additional external pump. The problem with buying a tank from a scrap yard is that it will be very rusted. The original tank I have is still very clean.

jayoldschool
01-17-11, 12:22 AM
The 94-96 tank is plastic ;)

shrike77
01-17-11, 12:51 AM
hehe, I did not know that!
You learn every day!
That changes things then. I will look for one of those then

alistair
01-17-11, 04:44 AM
great topic!

I thought about this a little.

I thought - can you not retain the T200-4R with a Gen III or Gen IV engine? I thought the bolt pattern worked or are you after the electronic control?

ALso I had thought about that 5 speed trans 5L50E or something it is called. Is this a suitable fit for the Cadillac? I used to own a late Lexus LS400 which has Toyota's elecrtronic 5 speed auto in it and that was a great road car. The 5 speed gave it real flexibility. It was alos the only Japanese V8 sedan at my local drag strip LOL. 15.1 on street tyres all stock. I digress.

I'm happy with my 307 and would maybe fit a larger Olds (403, 425, 455) in mine but my old '84 is still out there somewhere with a weak 4100 in it and that is a car crying out to have a propper Gen II conversion. PLus it already has an EFI tank in the back...

shrike77
01-17-11, 10:04 AM
Well I could have kept the 200-4r, but apparently it would have blown not too long after because of almost double the power. The toughest 200-4r's were used on the Grand Nationals. But the one on the Caddy would have needed a rebuilt. I also preferred to keep the computer controlled feature of it. I am hoping this car will be more economical on gas after the swap is done. Also as I said, if I ever decide to change shift points, it will be easier to do (in the software)

I don't know about the 5l50e. I heard of it but did not really looked for info on it. I think it might have increased the complexity of the project. Also, if like the 6l80e, it would be bigger then I might have had to cut in the transmission tunnel and I wanted to avoid any cutting.

OK so now I know the 5l50e comes from a corvette. But it is installed at the rear of the car. So once again it means cutting in the floor and maybe even having to change the seating configuration of the rear seats. It would be too radical. Also the only one I saw for sale was 3500$!!! I am hoping my total swap including the price of the car will cost that much!

But I would have liked to have more gears, that's for sure. The easiest thing would probably be to go with a t5.


The ls400 was a nice car! Always liked them. Also the gs400

jayoldschool
01-17-11, 08:14 PM
T56 is the solution for your gears if you want more. You have to shift them yourself, though. Same work to put one in your car as it was for my swap in my SS. Not cheap, though. You would also need rear gears eventually.

Just stick a 4L60E in it and save the cash ;)

axe
01-17-11, 10:19 PM
What a nice project you got there, thank you for sharing! Would be interesting seeing what kind of gas mileage you'll get out of it.

Aron9000
01-17-11, 10:50 PM
Posted on your thread on LS1tech.com as well. This is going to be a sweet project when its finished, it'll really make one of these old boats fun to drive with some balls under the hood.

As for the cooling system, are you able to reuse the stock radiator, coolant overflow tank, and fan shroud? I'd think the fan shroud could be a problem if the mechanical fan is in a different place. You could always mount some electric fans on the radiator as well though.

shrike77
01-17-11, 11:05 PM
To Jayoldschool

That is exactly what I was thinking when I decided on the transmission. If I had the money, yes I would have swapped a t56 while I was at it. I got to shorten my driveshaft anyways. But money is a big factor so I am going with the 4l60e.

shrike77
01-17-11, 11:23 PM
Thank you, the reason why I chose the 4.8 (well I wanted a 5.3) was the extra power for roughly the same mileage or better. At 65 MPH i was getting about 10.5 l / 100 km (22.4 mpg) on the highway. I hope to get it down to 8.5 or 9 (27.5 -26) with the 4.8 at the same speed.


What a nice project you got there, thank you for sharing! Would be interesting seeing what kind of gas mileage you'll get out of it.

shrike77
01-17-11, 11:34 PM
I also replied to ls1tech.
It will be more fun, but the best will be when I have the money to upgrade the suspension.
To tell you the truth I did not look into the radiator yet. This is a much easier detail to fix. But what I can say is the hoses from the 4.8 SEEM to (not sure yet) go at the same location as the stock radiator's inlet and outlet. But I was going to ask around if the stock radiator has the capacity to offer enough cooling for the new engine. I will try to keep the mechanical fan. If I can or cannot will be dictated by what filter I can use. I wanted to keep the stock air box as the truck but then I have to move some things around. If I go with a K&N, it might interfere with the fan. This will be also a detail I will look into the end.

For now I have to mount the transmission and modify the cross member to make it fit. Then it will be the engine's harness to the electrical system to the car, power steering lines, heating system lines and valves, gas tank/pump.

I also got to change the oil pan gasket which seems to leak as well as the rear oil seal. I'd rather do them now when the engine is really easy to be removed.



Posted on your thread on LS1tech.com as well. This is going to be a sweet project when its finished, it'll really make one of these old boats fun to drive with some balls under the hood.

As for the cooling system, are you able to reuse the stock radiator, coolant overflow tank, and fan shroud? I'd think the fan shroud could be a problem if the mechanical fan is in a different place. You could always mount some electric fans on the radiator as well though.

csbuckn
01-18-11, 03:01 AM
What a challenge, I cant wait to see what you do with the electrical. Please keep us as updated as LS1tech cause this swap has been talked about so many times. I'm working on a 5.3L truck with a K&N setup, I could try to take some pics if you need but it basically goes from the throttle body to the passanger side behind the headlight.

cadillac_al
01-18-11, 08:48 AM
Cool project. Doesn't GM sell kits to put those LS engines into older vehicles? People were putting those in Chevelles a few years ago and I thought I saw some cool parts for this in the Chevy Power catalog.

shrike77
01-18-11, 10:44 AM
Are you keeping the mechanical fan? If you do I would like to see some pics if you have the time to take them.I was also thinking of bringing the filter to the side, the piping is probably expensive though.


What a challenge, I cant wait to see what you do with the electrical. Please keep us as updated as LS1tech cause this swap has been talked about so many times. I'm working on a 5.3L truck with a K&N setup, I could try to take some pics if you need but it basically goes from the throttle body to the passanger side behind the headlight.

shrike77
01-18-11, 10:49 AM
I don't know if they do. I did not relly check but it must be expensive. I'd like to have everything bolt on and not having to fiddle too much but this project is on a very tight budget.
The only catalog I looked at was S&P for engine supports and transmission cross member. But I did not find anything and anyways even if they did, I probably couldn't afford it at the moment.

I also hope this might help or encourage some other Brougham owners to take this path.



Cool project. Doesn't GM sell kits to put those LS engines into older vehicles? People were putting those in Chevelles a few years ago and I thought I saw some cool parts for this in the Chevy Power catalog.

csbuckn
01-18-11, 11:32 AM
Are you keeping the mechanical fan? If you do I would like to see some pics if you have the time to take them.I was also thinking of bringing the filter to the side, the piping is probably expensive though.

Its not mine, I'm just doing a tranny swap in it, an 03 Yukon, but he has a K&N setup and I can take pics of how its routed. From the looks of it, you are gonna have plenty of room. It only comes out maybe 5" from the front of the throttle body and heads to the pass side. I'll get some pics once the wifey wakes up to watch the bebe kids.

shrike77
01-18-11, 01:56 PM
Thanks,

I still got at least three months until I attack the filter issue:)



Its not mine, I'm just doing a tranny swap in it, an 03 Yukon, but he has a K&N setup and I can take pics of how its routed. From the looks of it, you are gonna have plenty of room. It only comes out maybe 5" from the front of the throttle body and heads to the pass side. I'll get some pics once the wifey wakes up to watch the bebe kids.

alistair
01-21-11, 04:58 PM
OK so now I know the 5l50e comes from a corvette. But it is installed at the rear of the car.

OK, I thought there was a front mounted (ie conventional) version of that trans used in some vans or some such. Sorry to send you on a wild goose chase!

shrike77
01-21-11, 07:39 PM
OK, I thought there was a front mounted (ie conventional) version of that trans used in some vans or some such. Sorry to send you on a wild goose chase!

No problem. It's good to always learn something.
I did not search much either, maybe there could be a conventional one. I stopped when I saw the prices

shrike77
08-13-11, 12:30 PM
question for jayoldschool,
when you were saying that I should get a 94-96 platsic tank to accomodate the FI. What is the difference with the other years, like 92, 93. I just want to make sure I get the right tank. I will call and have some prices for scrap yards. Hopefully I can find one.

Also the project is advancing really slowly during summer. I should post some other pics. Until now I did the transmission support. It is not the best route I took but it should work ok apparently for now.
I also put the hood on the car. It was hitting the EVAP purge solenoid which is not needed anyways. So I took it off and I have to plug the hole.

The truck exhaust manifold don't work, see pics below. Too bad cause I spend close to 200 bucks for new ones. They do fit but impossible to mount the flange for the exhaust. 2010-2011 LS3 exhaust manifolds should give about 1 more inch of clearance. I will try my luck with those, otherwise the manifolds need to be modified. Ideally with v-clamps.

So besides that nothing else is new. I am happy the truck manifold fits and no need to switch to a car intake, in which case the belt routing has to be changed. If I were to use a car manifold I would go for one coming from a LS6. LS1 doesn't flow much better than truck ones up to about 5700 RPM from what I read and it gives up torque at low and mid range.

I think the biggest challenge will be pinion angle and rear suspension arms. from what I can see now the engine is at 5 degrees so the diff has to go to 5 degrees upwards. The flange of the diff will be about 1 inch closer to the floor of the car. Hopefully I won<t have to modifiy it. But that step will probably be done during fall or winter.

A/C will be another good one too!

I miss not driving the car:( It has been one year! SOmetimes I think of buying another one until I finish the project. But I ain,t rich!

truck exh manifold on driver side, not enough clearance:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/cadillac%20vortec/P1070567.jpg


underhood pic to see clearance between hood and intake manifold. You can see where the EVAP solenoid was hitting the insulation on the hood. Don<t ask how I took that pic.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/cadillac%20vortec/P1070563.jpg

Maybe this was already posted. Template used to modify engine supports. Template is roughly shape of frame:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/cadillac%20vortec/100_5105.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/cadillac%20vortec/100_5120-Copy.jpg

shrike77
08-13-11, 12:33 PM
modified trans x-member. The lever effect might cause some droning from what I was told by somebody who did the exact same thing. Althoug he said it was good enough for him to drive the car like that for a couple of years.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/P1070496.jpg

shrike77
08-13-11, 12:46 PM
Oh, I also had to buy another transmission oil dipstick tube because the one I had from a F-body wasn<t fitting. I tried to heat it and bend it but I ruined it. So I bought one off the net for 30 bucks shipped and made a bracket for it that is fixed on the head. No pic of it though.

csbuckn
08-13-11, 01:11 PM
Wow, nice progress. Nice job on the mounts, you make them?

shrike77
08-13-11, 07:50 PM
Thanks,I just made a pair for my car. But I just tacked them and had a reald welder welder them. If I would have tried to do it I am sure the engine would have fallen from its supports!

The plate I had laser cut where I used to work. The dimensions for it I found on the net. It is the adapter plate for the CHEVY mounts.

shrike77
09-12-11, 10:03 PM
hi jayoldschool. I took your advice and bought a tank from a 1996 Fleetwood. My straps don't fit though. I am thinking of buying straps from a D or B-body 1991 to 1996 but before I do that I was wondering if you would be able to tell me which straps fit.

Thanks

jayoldschool
09-12-11, 10:19 PM
The later straps should work...

shrike77
09-13-11, 07:59 AM
ok Jay thanks.
I`ll find some and post back.

ferrisworld
09-18-11, 11:30 PM
That's so awesome. How much invested so far, what state do you live in, and if it's that kind of state/area, do you expect to encounter any issues trying to smog it, with the engine being from a truck and all?

Thanks

shrike77
12-18-11, 09:35 PM
Hi, sorry I just realized you had asked a question about my project. I didn't really keep track of the costs. I realize in a project like that it is the small stuff that adds up really fast. I paid the engine and transmission about 750 bucks. But I did not have the O2 sensors, MAF. There is no place for the stock air filter from the truck so you have to go a different way. If you want to have A\C you have to modify it. You cannot keep the mechanicl fan because the air filter from the truck doesn't fit, so you have to run an electrical fan. Then you have to decide what radiator you use, do ypu go with an expansion tank or an overflow tank? You have to modify your coolant hoses.
You also have to turn the fuel injector rail 180 degrees.
You also have to do something about the fuel pump, make sure your fuel hoses withstand the high pressure.
You have to think about exhaust, shorten driveshaft and make sure you have the right drive shaft angle.
You also need to modify your cross member.
So it all adds up fast. I would say right now I am about 1500 at least and far from finished. I need to dcide what to do about cooling system. Need to re-route the fuel lines. I also need to do the air filter and intake and make all the electrical connections. Then I have the exhaust and drive shaft and piniong angle to worry about.


I live in Quebec, there's no smog law yet but it's funny you mention that. They just announced there will be one from 2013 on. But 25 year old cars will be exempted from it.
But the engine should be cleaner than the original one



That's so awesome. How much invested so far, what state do you live in, and if it's that kind of state/area, do you expect to encounter any issues trying to smog it, with the engine being from a truck and all?

Thanks

Bro-Ham
12-20-11, 03:33 PM
Great project! Was the 307 junk or did you just want a different engine for the heck of it? Glad to see you're keeping that car on the road, what does the rest of the car look like - other than the engine compartment? Thanks for sharing your excitement with us! :)

N0DIH
12-21-11, 11:26 AM
So what all is left to do on it?

shrike77
12-22-11, 09:43 PM
the car is clean. It is not really rusted, frame is clean but it will need a roof and a paint job. It was very well maintained. The engine was not jun, was actually running very good but I needed a project I guess. Here's a pic:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/mat1977/P1070283.jpg

----------


So what all is left to do on it?
Oh there's a lot of details to be done. I don't have much time to dedicate to it but hopefully This week I can fit the radiator and a 16" electric fan I bought. I want to keep the orginal shroud and radiator. But keeping the original shroud will take some place. After that I need to find a way to fit an intake and an air filter. I will buy the items from www.siliconeintakes.com
Then I need to install the transmission lines.
I need to do some small stuff on the front suspension.
I need to solder all the electrical wires. Maybe also find some adapters to keep the original oil pressure sensor and temp sensor which are not used by the new computer. So I will have the telltale lights working in the dash.
Then I need to re-do the fuel lines in the engine bay 'cause they are not properly routed.
I need to cut the driveshaft and hope that by changing the angle on the differential to match the one on the engine, there will still be enough travel. Otherwise I think I will have to cut a hole in the tunnel to clear the drive shaft.

Then it will have to be brought for the exhaust.
If I finish by this summer, then next winter I will see how I can make the A/C work. The compressonr from the truck was positioned very low so it was interfering with the frame.

Somebody who knows how to do all this stuff would be finshed in 4 week-ends. But it takes me lots of time.

cadillac kevin
12-22-11, 10:44 PM
first, let me say that is a gorgeous cadillac. I wish mine looked that nice. I dont see any rust or obvious paint damage.
its only cost you $1500 so far? thats great. so far I'm at $2000 (approximately), and thats just for the engine and trans and alot of misc parts. by the time its done, I'll have about $4k in mine (but I'm having someone else do the labor).
what kind of power will you be putting out when you're done?

shrike77
12-27-11, 12:19 PM
thanks for the compliment, the paint is faded on te hood and trunk and there are small chips all around it. But I guess you cannot ask too much from a 25 year old original paint job. The rust is just on the surface but very very minimal. Most everybody would say no rust but I hate rust. There's just two places I found some. There is a body part in the engine bay that has some and there is a "rust leak" around one of the body mounts. It looks like water leaked around it and it rusted.

I am estimating it's about 1500 but I know it won't be a show stopper under the hood. I just want it to work and be reliable. That is my concern. And it should look stock. And the engine is dirty too! Tried to clean it up a bit but did not paint it or anything.

4k having someone else doing it is very reasonable I think. But what kind of engine are you putting in your car?

I am going with the stock power. What I wanted is sub-10 sec for the 0-62 MPH andf have decent passing power on the highway. I am also concerned with fuel economy, don't want to deteriorate that aspect.
Actually the idea behind that project was to boost up the power without affecting mileage. I am hoping it will even be slightly better than the original engine.
If the engine is relatively healthy, with the air intake, electrical fan, exhaust I am hoping for about 270 HP (the truck engine was rated 255 stock). It will be enough for me.
I think I will stop there but would have liked to stiffen up the frame and add better brakes.

cadillac kevin
12-27-11, 01:26 PM
here what I'm doing for mine:
GM goodwrench 350 crate motor- 4 bolt mains ($350)
edelbrock alum intake ($50)
full length headers and true dual exhaust (2.25 or 2.5 inch)- still need to buy materials for this
very mild head work (need to see if my mechanic will let me send the heads out when he tears down the top end to redo gaskets)
a new cam if I can afford it (if I have to leave in the stock cam, so be it)
BTO street/performance 200r4 + HD torque converter ($1800- with alot of misc stuff)

I plan on making somewhere in the neighborhood of 260-300 hp at the flywheel with accessories (mostly due to improved intake and exhaust). 0-60 should be in the 8.5 second range (I'd be happy with sub 10 second 0-60- the car is 4500-5000 lbs IIRC). the motor itself in stock form makes 260hp without accessories and with the factory log exhaust manifolds and cast iron intake.
mileage- if I see 15 mpg, I'll be happy. anything above that is just a bonus. 15.5 mpg was the highest mileage my 307 ever got (summer)- 9.5 was the lowest (winter). I could stand anemic power if the 307 got good mileage, but it got IMO horrid mileage for the power.
thankfully my car doesnt have rust (aside from the door bottoms and trunk lip, but it is still fixable.) the body itself is clean. chassis just has minor surface rust (you can scrape it off with your fingernail).
once I get the engine done, I will install new front and rear sway bars and shocks to help the handling (this thing leans in turns on the original shocks, plus the back end sags 2 inches with an empty trunk)

shrike77
12-27-11, 03:18 PM
You will have a good engine and transmission. Mine are used with about 150k on them. Not even sure they work!
Same for me, I wouldn't mind anemic power if I had the mileage of a 4 cyl:)
I consider the mileage wasn't bad for that size of a car but still not to my taste. I never drove it in the winter and on the highway it got about 22MPG
In the city mixed with a bit of highway it was getting between 16 to 15 mpg.
I will also install a rear sway bar but probably keep the original shocks (but new). I heard all the others are pretty stiff and here we already have roads bad enough.
I am also hoping for a 8.5 sec 0-60. That would be great but time will tell.
Good luck with the project and post some pics if you have!

cadillac kevin
12-27-11, 05:59 PM
You will have a good engine and transmission. Mine are used with about 150k on them. Not even sure they work!
Same for me, I wouldn't mind anemic power if I had the mileage of a 4 cyl:)
I consider the mileage wasn't bad for that size of a car but still not to my taste. I never drove it in the winter and on the highway it got about 22MPG
In the city mixed with a bit of highway it was getting between 16 to 15 mpg.
I will also install a rear sway bar but probably keep the original shocks (but new). I heard all the others are pretty stiff and here we already have roads bad enough.
I am also hoping for a 8.5 sec 0-60. That would be great but time will tell.
Good luck with the project and post some pics if you have!
I'm not even sure if my motor is free (not seized). I still need to put mystery oil in the heads and let it sit so I can crank it over by hand. the good thing is the motor belongs to my neighbor, so he says I dont have to pay him until after I get it in the car and it runs.
pic of the motor (sorry for the bad quality- its a phone camera)
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/jetthreatkevin/cadillac/p_00039.jpg
and some pics of the car (from last december before the accident)- trust me, it hasnt changed any (except for a dent the size of a half dollar and missing wheel well trim on the right front). if only the engines gaskets had been as rugged as the body of the car. (I do have the rocker chrome. took it off to polish it up and never put it back on)
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/jetthreatkevin/cadillac/PC091067.jpg
http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae356/jetthreatkevin/cadillac/PC091068.jpg

shrike77
12-27-11, 09:27 PM
I like the colour and the contrast between the dark top. I wasn't too crazy about the coulour on mine first, but the car was in very good shape for a MOntreal car. I used to have a blue on blue '88 d'Elegance. I used to love the colour and fabric button seats.
I wish I bought the engine from my neighbour! It was about 250-300 miles away from my home.
By the way, are you going to switch to chevrolet engine mounts? Do they fit on the pre-drilled holes or do you have to drill new ones?

cadillac kevin
12-27-11, 11:31 PM
When I first got mine, I despised the color combo. (I thought it was yellow when I bought it. lol). the price was right, and for a 25 year old Missouri car, it had very little rust and body damage (most 80s cars here are trashed from going through multiple owners and 3 decades of salt). this one had only 2 owners and low miles (odometer is currently at 66,201.3 miles.) unfortunately, it had been smoked in heavily until the day I bought it. The ash tray was actually overflowing onto the floor through the back and sides of the ashtray and was right up under the buttons on the climate control when I bought it. After probably about 3 days worth of cleaning (carpet removed, powerwashed, and thoroughly cleaned, door panels, dash, and woodwork thoroughly scrubbed down) you could never tell it was smoked on. I despise the smell of cheap cigs since they give me breathing problems so cleaning it was first priority for me.
I really liked the button seats (I believe mine were pillowed leather). unfortunately after being sat in and never cleaned or moisturized for 25 years, the front seat leather was toast. so I removed them (still have them) and put in leather buckets and a center console
yeah, I kinda lucked out on the motor. I asked my neighbor because he had offered me a 350 for another car years ago, so I figured he might have one laying around. I was wrong- he had 3, and this one was the nicest looking and by far the newest (both in years old, and in how many years it had sat around), so I picked it.
I am going to switch to chevy motor mounts (olds mounts are similar but not 100% identical). IIRC, new holes need to be drilled in the frame