: Trans "S" light flashing, skips 2nd gear, shifts into 3rd... Anyone help?



mdksupra
01-10-11, 04:42 PM
The "S" transmission light started flashing in my car :devil: and it will no longer shift into 2nd gear, skipping into 3rd and staying there until restarting the Carterror. The problem is gone upon restart until you hit 20 MPH and attempt to enter 2nd gear again, then light flashes and goes Limp.

I took my car to autozone and got a speed sensor code. Not wanting to do the work in the cold i took the car to a mechanic shop who ran the code and changed the speed sensor, it didn't fix the problem so he reinstalled the old one and didnt charge me anything. They tried to figure out what was wrong with it, but couldn't find the cause.:helpless:

Prior to this I had fixed my multifunction module but the radio or interior lights still wouldnt work. After picking it up at the mechanic though, my interior lights and radio are now working. Don't know how or why...:hmm:

I took the Carterror to Aamco transmissions for a trans-scan. They couldn't figure out what was wrong with it without dropping the pan. I definitely did not let them do this. I had the car towed home and will be working on it tonight.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated !!!!! :hmm::bonkers:

I believe I've scowered the threads and haven't come up with anything definitive.:banghead:

AHazzardToAll
01-10-11, 05:25 PM
I replied to your question in another thread. In the future posting your question in one thread, rather than multiple treads, helps keep things organized for us and keeps you from getting multiple answers, or the same answer over. Makes trouble shooting less complicated. Thanks, and I hope we get this worked out soon.

mdksupra
01-10-11, 05:35 PM
yeah i noticed your reply, thanks for that. I'll be taking out the neutral safety switch and cleaning it before I order the new one from Autozone.

Found part # 96017511 in one of the threads here. After checking online, cheapest place for it seems to be autozone @ $104.

I wanted to share the info with the guys in the other thread to see if they had the same issue fixed with the MAF replacement... just boggled my mind that it could be the MAF... never would've thought that could be related

AHazzardToAll
01-10-11, 05:53 PM
that is understandable, here is a link for reference.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/199924-neutral-safety-switch-location-any-tricks.html

mdksupra
01-11-11, 11:02 PM
that is understandable, here is a link for reference.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/199924-neutral-safety-switch-location-any-tricks.html

I removed the PRNDL switch yesterday and let the screws soak in PB overnight. They still snapped off. Doesn't matter, I'm just going to drill out the tiny screws and insert new ones.

The inside of the switch was full of protectant grease, not to much dirt or grime just some minor deposits. Wont be able to reinstall it until Thursday because of work but I'll let you know what happens.

Greg_Zeboray
01-11-11, 11:54 PM
I had the same problem and it progessed to where - sometimes - the car was stuck in high gear. The only fix (that I foumd) was to have a new transmission installed.

CateraMV6
01-12-11, 12:34 AM
I am sure its a sensor or a control rather then trans issue!... How is the fluid looking clean? smelly?

dadenkern
01-12-11, 01:03 PM
I recently had this same problem with the flashing S. The solution was to drop the two transmission pans, drain the fluid, install two new pan gaskets and refilling with fresh fluid. I've been driving for about 5,000 miles without a problem.

2001 Catera non-sport with 185,000 miles

mdksupra
01-12-11, 02:01 PM
I am sure its a sensor or a control rather then trans issue!... How is the fluid looking clean? smelly?

Me too! There's no way this is mechanical failure.

I've never changed the fluid on this thing so I'm sure its dirty. Currently at 96k miles, purchased the vehicle 4 years ago at 37k miles. I want to reinstall the trans range sensor to see if it affects the issue before dropping the pan to install new filter/fluid.

(edit) It doesn't smell burnt or anything, just that regular "old" smell that trans fluid gets.

mdksupra
01-12-11, 02:04 PM
I had the same problem and it progessed to where - sometimes - the car was stuck in high gear. The only fix (that I foumd) was to have a new transmission installed.

Thanks for the input Greg but there has to be a way to figure this out. It's definitely some electrical or control issue. Having a new trans installed would be the equivalent of a surgeon chopping someones entire arm off because their pinky has gangrene.

mdksupra
01-12-11, 02:08 PM
I recently had this same problem with the flashing S. The solution was to drop the two transmission pans, drain the fluid, install two new pan gaskets and refilling with fresh fluid. I've been driving for about 5,000 miles without a problem.

2001 Catera non-sport with 185,000 miles

Thats a lot of miles bud! Glad to see Cateras with that mileage exist!

Was it possible that your vehicle was just low on fluid and the pan drop/gasket replacement was just a safety precaution? Essentially, do you think just filling the fluid would have fixed it?

Did you do it yourself or a mechanic do it? What if he jarred the neutral safety switch while dropping the pans? I'd like to drop mine to see how bad the filter is.

AHazzardToAll
01-12-11, 06:31 PM
Thats a lot of miles bud! Glad to see Cateras with that mileage exist!

Was it possible that your vehicle was just low on fluid and the pan drop/gasket replacement was just a safety precaution? Essentially, do you think just filling the fluid would have fixed it?

Did you do it yourself or a mechanic do it? What if he jarred the neutral safety switch while dropping the pans? I'd like to drop mine to see how bad the filter is.

You actually just want to drop the main pan, the secondary doesn't hold enough fluid to worry about. It's not that bad of a job. Worst part is scraping the old gasket off everything. The filter kit isn't terribly expensive either.

mdksupra
01-14-11, 01:47 AM
After cleaning up the Neutral safety switch and reinstalling it today the car is having the same issues. I'm going to rip some parts out of a car at the junkyard to replace such as speed sensor (because its giving the speed sensor code and its already been replaced once) and the neut safety.

wyse18
01-14-11, 03:11 AM
I recently had this same problem with the flashing S. The solution was to drop the two transmission pans, drain the fluid, install two new pan gaskets and refilling with fresh fluid. I've been driving for about 5,000 miles without a problem.

2001 Catera non-sport with 185,000 miles

I have been going through the same thing for the last week and am going to get it looked at first thing monday. so this is a solid solution to this problem? my PRND123 lights all light up and at first it would go into drive after all of the lights lit up and then it sort of reset itself when driving but now they all light up and stay lit up. im not sure if this is related to the flashing S but i would have to say it is since the flashing S came after the transmission light issues.

hgqguy
01-14-11, 07:28 PM
dbl check when u order your filter and gasket. We tore into mine and discovered there are 2 differant pan/gaskets.. Of course I had the wrong one 20 miles from autozone at 10pm.. and 20 miles from my house.. we used permatex or soemthing to create a gasket.. and the damn "fill untill" thats a gem! not!

Greg_Zeboray
01-15-11, 12:21 AM
Question: whan it flashes are you stuck in high gear until you shut the car off and restart? If so, I stick to what I wrote - a new transmission is needed.

Cadi Cat
01-15-11, 04:56 PM
I beg to differ. I've had this issue since the day I bought the car. Had 56k on the clock and 6 years later I've got 194k on it now. Surely the tranny would have failed completly by now. It's some sort of electrical issue or sticky valve or something no one has any idea what. It seems like the torque convertor isn't fully locking after 2nd gear and slips causing the limp mode. New fluid, filter, PRNDL sensor, TCM.... nothing solves it. But a new tranny is not the answer in my book.

hgqguy
01-15-11, 07:27 PM
man, at 200K I would say the tranny has given its best and the simplest answer would be to swap it out.. then everything would be new in one shot.. I mean $500 or so for a tranny of ebay, and a few hundred to install it... $800 to solve an unknown Problem seems worth it to me... But I like to simplify... even if it cost a few hundred.. just think.. 800 is like 2 months worth of car payments..

mdksupra
01-15-11, 11:10 PM
dbl check when u order your filter and gasket. We tore into mine and discovered there are 2 differant pan/gaskets.. Of course I had the wrong one 20 miles from autozone at 10pm.. and 20 miles from my house.. we used permatex or soemthing to create a gasket.. and the damn "fill untill" thats a gem! not!

Thanks I'll have to make sure

mdksupra
01-15-11, 11:16 PM
Original Poster here: Today I replaced the Neutral Switch and the Speed Sensor. The Cadi's still going into limp mode instead of 2nd gear.

Any other ideas or similar situations with the tranny goin into 3rd gear instead of 2nd???

The only engine code that comes up wit a scanner is speed sensor code. No dice. Checked all fuses, which r good

Greg_Zeboray
01-15-11, 11:33 PM
I still stick to what I said and in time I'm confident you will end up agreeing with me. I just hope you don't first spend a lot of money on other options (that don't solve it). btw, I had a warranty at the time so I took my car to the Cadillac store in Carlsbad and I really doubt they would have replaced the transmission if it wasn't needed.

mdksupra
01-16-11, 12:02 AM
I still stick to what I said and in time I'm confident you will end up agreeing with me. I just hope you don't first spend a lot of money on other options (that don't solve it). btw, I had a warranty at the time so I took my car to the Cadillac store in Carlsbad and I really doubt they would have replaced the transmission if it wasn't needed.

I wasn't asking for someone to tell me to "replace the tranny" especially if they have no idea what the problem is.

I was looking for someone with automotive knowledge and Catera experience to help me troubleshoot the problem.

Thanks anyway

mdksupra
01-16-11, 12:04 AM
I beg to differ. I've had this issue since the day I bought the car. Had 56k on the clock and 6 years later I've got 194k on it now. Surely the tranny would have failed completly by now. It's some sort of electrical issue or sticky valve or something no one has any idea what. It seems like the torque convertor isn't fully locking after 2nd gear and slips causing the limp mode. New fluid, filter, PRNDL sensor, TCM.... nothing solves it. But a new tranny is not the answer in my book.

Have you had the Check engine light code scanned?? Have you fixed the problem or do you not drive the vehicle?

waco-brian
01-16-11, 08:28 AM
i had about the same iussue,changed fliud and it still did the same, changed trans filter and fluid and vovom fixed it been driving a year now with no probs at all. you know there is a transmission conrtol modual( TCM)

AL Cool Dates
01-16-11, 11:55 AM
I wasn't asking for someone to tell me to "replace the tranny" especially if they have no idea what the problem is.

I was looking for someone with automotive knowledge and Catera experience to help me troubleshoot the problem.

Thanks anyway

Word! Nobody wants to hear that. I'm having the same issue but no one has an answer for it but mine happens once in a blue if I forget to put it in Sport Mode. It caused the check engine light to come on once and when I got it scanned it said a component was slipping, check fliud, and something about the difference in speed between the input and output shaft (hell if I know what it is). I changed the fluid, filter, and gaskets. Acceleration improved, but I get the light still but far less than before (Once every couple of weeks). I will have my mechanic look at the driveshaft and Differential next for any issues. If that doesn't work, I'd consider a tranny rebuild before a replacement, far cheaper! Got a quote for $250 plus tax already.

Cadi Cat
01-16-11, 07:56 PM
Have you had the Check engine light code scanned?? Have you fixed the problem or do you not drive the vehicle?

Yes. It comes up P1870 transmission component slippage. And no I have not found a fix. I drive the car every day. It's my daily driver and has been for 6 years. It only happens once in a blue moon so I've learned to deal with it. The car has plenty of power to start out in 2nd when I manually put it there and just manually shift between 2nd and 3rd when i have to. I just miss out on my spirited driving when this happens. But otherwise the tranny shifts and responds fine. It's just an annoyance sometimes.

Cadi Cat
01-16-11, 08:02 PM
man, at 200K I would say the tranny has given its best and the simplest answer would be to swap it out.. then everything would be new in one shot.. I mean $500 or so for a tranny of ebay, and a few hundred to install it... $800 to solve an unknown Problem seems worth it to me... But I like to simplify... even if it cost a few hundred.. just think.. 800 is like 2 months worth of car payments..

Oh for sure! I agree with you. By now it's certiantly worth a replacement. Had I done it at 60k it would have been a waste. Especially when I hear cases of members here going that route to fix this problem and end up back with the same problems $1500-$2000 later.

mdksupra
01-16-11, 11:04 PM
Today I checked the fluid more closely and I takeback what I said about the trans fluid not looking "too bad." the shits nearly black and smells burnt. It isn't low on fluid.

I raised the back whEels onto jacks to see if the tranny shifts into 2nd without the weight of the car providing resistance. Still no shift into 2nd gear, limp.


To recap:
Cleaned safety switch
Replaced safety switch
Replaced speed sensor twice
Checked fluid level
Replaced trans related fuses, wires/harness

I'm thinking about removing the remote starter I had installed. Could it be causing a short or bad ground? Is this a possibility? Do the trans wires go through the engine wiring harness that the remote start is hookedup to?

Has anyone replaced the transmission control module, TCM? Does anything hav to be reporgrammed if I replace the TCM?

Greg_Zeboray
01-16-11, 11:43 PM
Good luck. For your sake I hope I'm wrong.

mdksupra
01-17-11, 12:46 AM
Yes. It comes up P1870 transmission component slippage. And no I have not found a fix. I drive the car every day. It's my daily driver and has been for 6 years. It only happens once in a blue moon so I've learned to deal with it. The car has plenty of power to start out in 2nd when I manually put it there and just manually shift between 2nd and 3rd when i have to. I just miss out on my spirited driving when this happens. But otherwise the tranny shifts and responds fine. It's just an annoyance sometimes.

Did you mention that you forgot to put the car in SPORT mode and thats when your light comes on? If you drive in SPORT mode, does the transmission work properly??? I'll have to test this out on mine

Cadi Cat
01-17-11, 05:33 PM
Did you mention that you forgot to put the car in SPORT mode and thats when your light comes on? If you drive in SPORT mode, does the transmission work properly??? I'll have to test this out on mine

Well... it's kind of complicated without physically showing you what's going on. But the trick is to pay close attention to the shift patterns and the rpms behavior in NON SPORT mode. My problem occurs at 40mph when the tranny shifts into 3rd. Properly working... the rpms should drop sharply to just under 2k and lock in gear. And all is well for as long as I stay above 40. Now... the tricky part. When I accelerate to 40, sometimes the rpms don't drop sharply and only drop about 100 or so and flucuate up or down and doesn't seem to be locked in gear. If I do nothing the tranny will go into limp mode. If I'm paying attention to this I hit the sport mode to keep it from going into limp. Seems to work unless I hold the speed around 50, then it will also go into limp. So... As long as I keep it above or below 50 I'm fine. UNLESS... i need to give it more gas such as driving on a sharp incline. If I'm not easy on the gas it will also go into limp. Keep in mind all this time the rpms flucuate through all gears depending how heavy or light i am on the throttle. NOT NORMAL! Like I said... wierd and complicated but it works 50% of the time and only happens once in a great while so I've learned to deal with it. And I have been for 6 years. I've never replaced the tranny because I'm sure it's not a mechanical failure. Had it been, then how did I get 200k out of it? My fluid is clean and level and filter is new. Made no differance. This is what happens to MY car and my little trick to keep it at bay. You may have a different senario. But reading that your fluid smells burnt maybe your issue. Change the fluid and filter and see what happens. May be your fix. Unfortunatly for me it wasn't. Hope this helps!

dadenkern
01-18-11, 08:16 AM
Thats a lot of miles bud! Glad to see Cateras with that mileage exist!

Was it possible that your vehicle was just low on fluid and the pan drop/gasket replacement was just a safety precaution? Essentially, do you think just filling the fluid would have fixed it?

Did you do it yourself or a mechanic do it? What if he jarred the neutral safety switch while dropping the pans? I'd like to drop mine to see how bad the filter is.

The fluid level was okay so it was probably a combination of old fluid and plugged filter. I did the work myself.

AL Cool Dates
01-18-11, 11:06 AM
Well... it's kind of complicated without physically showing you what's going on. But the trick is to pay close attention to the shift patterns and the rpms behavior in NON SPORT mode. My problem occurs at 40mph when the tranny shifts into 3rd. Properly working... the rpms should drop sharply to just under 2k and lock in gear. And all is well for as long as I stay above 40. Now... the tricky part. When I accelerate to 40, sometimes the rpms don't drop sharply and only drop about 100 or so and flucuate up or down and doesn't seem to be locked in gear. If I do nothing the tranny will go into limp mode. If I'm paying attention to this I hit the sport mode to keep it from going into limp. Seems to work unless I hold the speed around 50, then it will also go into limp. So... As long as I keep it above or below 50 I'm fine. UNLESS... i need to give it more gas such as driving on a sharp incline. If I'm not easy on the gas it will also go into limp. Keep in mind all this time the rpms flucuate through all gears depending how heavy or light i am on the throttle. NOT NORMAL! Like I said... wierd and complicated but it works 50% of the time and only happens once in a great while so I've learned to deal with it. And I have been for 6 years. I've never replaced the tranny because I'm sure it's not a mechanical failure. Had it been, then how did I get 200k out of it? My fluid is clean and level and filter is new. Made no differance. This is what happens to MY car and my little trick to keep it at bay. You may have a different senario. But reading that your fluid smells burnt maybe your issue. Change the fluid and filter and see what happens. May be your fix. Unfortunatly for me it wasn't. Hope this helps!

Crap dude, that sounds like a headache and you get points for being able to deal with it so long :worship: . I just drive the sucker in sports mode when I get to the highway inclines, that seems to work for me all the time. I pray I have the same turn out as you and make it to 200K!

mdksupra
01-20-11, 08:39 PM
I believe I found a damaged wire in the engine harness, black and yellow. I looked in the Chiltons diagnostics book and it appears this sends signals to the trans/sport light and TCM. I'm currently doing the alternator so I can't test it out until I'm finished but this looks promising. I think the douche bags that installed my remote start might have mixed that one up with another wire.

Just got the alternator off, now to make space for it to come out since the air intake resonator is inthe way.

mdksupra
01-20-11, 08:40 PM
Yea I agree, I applaud you for putting up with it for so long.

Your Cat's not shifting into 3rd, mines not shifting into 2nd. These Catera's are such fussy little bitches sometimes.

Greg_Zeboray
01-25-11, 11:34 PM
I believe I found a damaged wire in the engine harness, black and yellow. I looked in the Chiltons diagnostics book and it appears this sends signals to the trans/sport light and TCM. I'm currently doing the alternator so I can't test it out until I'm finished but this looks promising. I think the douche bags that installed my remote start might have mixed that one up with another wire.

Just got the alternator off, now to make space for it to come out since the air intake resonator is inthe way.


Problem solved mdksupra?

mdksupra
01-28-11, 09:59 PM
Alternators done. Out of the many alternators I've ever done I'd say the Cateras is the most difficult mainly because of the upper bolt position and the position of the alternator itself.

The wire I mentioned was damaged, I repaired it but no changes. It seems they had mixed that one up w the brake wire. I guess I'm the stupid one for not doing it myself

Called tech support number on the remote start module and asked them if they ever had anyone complain about my problem. They said that a few GM TRUCKS get that same problem if the 2nd ignition wire isn't connected to the remote starter. The Catera however doesn't have a 2nd ignition wire.

I removed the remote starter and the car ran perfectly. Now I felt pissed off and relieved. The cause of thr problem seems to be found yet I still dont understand how the car ran well after the starter was installed. It wasnt til several weeks later thAt this issue came up. So mayb the remote stArter module isn't working properly anymore? Not sure.

Got a bit more investigating to do

mdksupra
01-28-11, 10:02 PM
Not to mention, I had no idea that the engine harness had trans control wires running thru it.

mdksupra
01-31-11, 06:38 PM
I removed the wires for the remote start and the issue continued. Obviously this was not the cause.

However, I reinstalled the remote start and jostled the engine harness a bit in the process (just to get to the wires). To my surprise, the problem is gone. I removed the remote start yet again and the car started giving me the trans issue again. Jostled the wires some more (on purpose) and the problem was gone.... I had to test drive it in between each of these changes.

In the end I've reinstalled my remote start. It seems the engine harness is causing the issue. I'm not sure but I'm guessing there's a bad connection from the harness to some fuse/sensor.

I've been running the Catera for the past 2 days. Put about 200 miles on it in stop and go city traffic with no issues so far (knock on wood). Trans shifts beautifully in regular mode and sport mode. I'm perplexed yet quite happy that after a month of parts changing, troubleshooting and 3 shitty mechanic/trans shops that couldn't figure it out, I've finally got the car running properly.

Anyone had a similar issue with their Catera's engine harness?

kmcatera00
03-07-11, 05:00 PM
I am having this same issue on my 2000 Sport. So it sounds like I need to go out a jostle the engine harness. Is that correct? I was going to buy a neutral safety switch but if jostling will solve the problem.... I'm good with that!

mdksupra
03-07-11, 05:39 PM
Most people with thus issue have solved it with a new neutral safety switch. A couple have had dealerships replace the engine harness. I got lucky and didn't really find a permanent fix but so far It hasn't happened once since. I'm assuming there's a bad/loose connection to a sensor/fuse but haven't been able to find which one. Instead of Paying the dealer to swap the harness, I'll just leave it be. I recommend u swap that neutral safety switch.

kmcatera00
03-07-11, 05:48 PM
I am good with that too. From reading the thread I guess the best place to buy the NSS is autozone? about 104$ Are they tough to put on? I have an awesome mechanic I may just have him throw it on. Thanks for the quick reply!

mdksupra
03-08-11, 06:15 PM
I am good with that too. From reading the thread I guess the best place to buy the NSS is autozone? about 104$ Are they tough to put on? I have an awesome mechanic I may just have him throw it on. Thanks for the quick reply!


Yeah Autozone has it cheap. That's ur best bet if u don't want to remove one from a junkyard, and that's a gamble because it may not work either.

You have to unbolt the linkage, it's easy but if u don't tighten in place properly it will shift funny when u move the shifter thru the gears PrNDL etc. Its actually a fairly easy job after undoing the linkage, 3 bolts or so in the neutral safety switch. 1 is difficult to remove but the others are easy as pie. When u put it back on shift thru the gears and if it feels loose, tighten the linkage bolt. Loosen it if it feels too tight.

SoapMart
04-14-11, 04:24 PM
Please let me know how you go about "cleaning it".
We know how to take it out and reinstall it.

What do you clean it with?
And do you mean the part only or the spot it goes into as well?

Thanks.

SoapMart
04-14-11, 04:41 PM
yeah i noticed your reply, thanks for that. I'll be taking out the neutral safety switch and cleaning it before I order the new one from Autozone.

Found part # 96017511 in one of the threads here. After checking online, cheapest place for it seems to be autozone @ $104.

I wanted to share the info with the guys in the other thread to see if they had the same issue fixed with the MAF replacement... just boggled my mind that it could be the MAF... never would've thought that could be related

Can you please tell me where to find this thread?

SoapMart
04-14-11, 05:13 PM
so was it the maf or the nss?

akamai43
04-18-11, 03:40 PM
I was thinking the P1870 transmission component slippage: could be the sump running low of fluid which could be a clogged filter to a malfunctioning torque converter.

I flushed and replaced my filter and my problem was gone... Filter was blocked. It didn't look like it was dirty but it did solve my problem.

RippyPartsDept
04-18-11, 04:14 PM
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
NSS = Neutral Safety Switch

kmcatera00
06-14-11, 08:58 PM
OK well I have had the NSS replaced and I still get a flashing "S" every other day or so. Next step? Any thoughts?

RippyPartsDept
06-15-11, 09:45 AM
have you pulled the codes?

kmcatera00
06-17-11, 11:53 AM
I don't have any codes right now since my check engine light is not on. (at least that's the way i think it works) The funny thing is I have noticed a trend..... While I'm driving the car and I trigger whatever it is to make the "S" light flash and hold 3rd gear....I keep driving to the next stop light and restart the car......everything is good then......keep driving...the second time the "S" light starts (in the same day) to flash I get the CEL....restart again drive on with the CEL.....after about a day or so of not tripping the "S" light the CEL goes away. I can go a week and not have a problem or I can have the problem 3 days in a row. Sorry if all of that is confusing.

RippyPartsDept
06-17-11, 12:52 PM
there may be history codes in the system that will give you an idea of why that trans light flashes... even though its not currently happening the system still stores the codes for a while until the problem doesn't happen

the only better thing to do would be to have a tech2 plugged in while driving and monitoring the trans live as it malfunctions (but that's a bit excessive, and not likely going to happen)

kmcatera00
06-18-11, 12:00 AM
Here is the pic of the code that was pulled......thoughts?

76735

RippyPartsDept
06-18-11, 10:28 AM
"TCM calculated transmission slip is greater than 288 RPM." - is the cause for the code ... root cause could be a few things

"The TCM flashes the sport mode lamp and sends a MIL request to the ECM on the second consecutive drive trip that the diagnostic runs and fails. The ECM then illuminates the MIL."
also a 'freeze frame' is recorded, and
"The transmission operates in the default mode (maximum line pressure, command 4th gear, inhibit TCC, freeze shift adapts)."

---

I can email you a diagnostic troubleshooting table if you want, but it's probably not something the normal person can get accomplished on their own.

You'll probably have to take it to a transmission specialist ... hopefully one that's worked on cateras before

kmcatera00
06-19-11, 01:02 AM
That would be great!

RippyPartsDept
06-20-11, 11:13 AM
e-mail sent

mrsgray58
07-09-11, 12:32 PM
I know it's been quite a while since this posted, but would you by any chance have the diagnostic troubleshooting table still available to email? mrsgray58@yahoo.com it would be a blessing, having the same problems on my 2000 cadillac catera...thank you very much for reading this.

RippyPartsDept
07-11-11, 10:14 AM
email sent - hope that helps

AL Cool Dates
07-11-11, 12:04 PM
Here is the pic of the code that was pulled......thoughts?

76735

This is the very same error I get sometimes when I drive above 40mph without putting on the sports mode. Weird.

buckmaker
07-11-11, 04:05 PM
Sounds like the flywheel ignition timing sensor is going out

inexpensive part, not real hard but you need special wrench and if you bend the trans lines it can be a real bitch

kmcatera00
07-18-11, 01:03 AM
Thanks for the info buckmaker! How much is a flywheel ignition timing sensor? Part number? Cost to install? Sorry for all the questions. I have been chasing this problem for about 6 months off and on.

buckmaker
07-18-11, 05:56 PM
Thanks for the info buckmaker! How much is a flywheel ignition timing sensor? Part number? Cost to install? Sorry for all the questions. I have been chasing this problem for about 6 months off and on.

When I made the comment, I had not read the complete thread. If this has been going on for 6 months it may be a different matter [transmission] than the sensor, since when that is going, you will only be able to start the car intermittently. It has some other wierd side effects like the trans but I think it is probably a different matter. The sensors do go out after about 50k miles, the do not cost much from the dealer $40 but it is a bear to install, from harness in engine compartment down to just above the oil filter with a special wrench to disconnect the trans fluid lines too. I expect a dealer would want about $400 more or less but again, that is probably not the issue if all you have is a transmission shifting problem.

SoapMart
08-14-11, 06:49 PM
I hope I can get some help from this thread.
We have a 2001 cadillac catera.
Our check engine is on and the flashing S which I think is why the check engine is on.
Does anyone know if new struts will take the flashing S off?
We are replacing the gas filter tomorrow, Monday 8-15 to see if that turns off the check engine light.

I cannot get my car inspected bc of this check engine light.
codes reading are p0705 neutral safety switch. It works. We got new bolts and are going to be adjusting it tomorrow as well. P1700 tcm. Already replaced it with a NEW part.

What could be our problem? I need my car running........any help?

SoapMart
08-14-11, 06:53 PM
2001 cadillac catera.
flashing s.
check engine on.
replaced maf + nss.
same problem.