: Solution for pathetic Bose system?



cmiller
01-03-11, 10:30 PM
I have read about 30 posts regarding options for replacing the horrible sounding Bose system. I just can't understand why these companies put their name on something so horrible. I have an "Infinity" system in my truck and this "Bose" system in the car. Neither one of them are worth $1 and to make it worse it seems like all these upgraded options do is make it more complicated and more expensive to go aftermarket.

Long story short, I am looking for easy do it yourself type replacement of the speakers and a subwoofer. I would prefer to not have to rewire the entire car or have a PhD in electronics to pull this off. Anyone have any good solutions they have come up with recently? Thanks

heavymetals
01-03-11, 11:15 PM
I can email you pics and instructions on adding amps and a sub replacement.

You can't just replace the speakers and improve the sound.

martinV
01-03-11, 11:35 PM
Headers and exhaust should solve all of your audio problems.

odla
01-04-11, 10:29 AM
i went with morell speakers in front and rear doors. Added tweets in the rear door. Put a sub in a simple box in the trunk. Two amps. 1000 watt for the sub and 500 for the rest of the speakers. had to get a 360. from fosgate to clean the signal from the stock head unit. Now it sounds very good. Way better than the stock sound.

lilgCTS-V
01-04-11, 01:15 PM
I have read about 30 posts regarding options for replacing the horrible sounding Bose system. I just can't understand why these companies put their name on something so horrible. I have an "Infinity" system in my truck and this "Bose" system in the car. Neither one of them are worth $1 and to make it worse it seems like all these upgraded options do is make it more complicated and more expensive to go aftermarket.

Long story short, I am looking for easy do it yourself type replacement of the speakers and a subwoofer. I would prefer to not have to rewire the entire car or have a PhD in electronics to pull this off. Anyone have any good solutions they have come up with recently? Thanks

i second this post im looking for alil more bump and quality but that wont break the bank

JFensty
01-04-11, 01:37 PM
i second this post im looking for alil more bump and quality but that wont break the bank

:yeah:

whisler151
01-04-11, 02:24 PM
I had a 12" sub and amp installed in the trunk. I spent $300 at Car Toys for all parts and install (not including sub and amp). I had to buy the battery cable, bass volume knob (mounted under steering column), a kit that hooked it into the factory Bose system and something that took the sub signal from the stock sub to the new sub.

The stereo sounds 100 times better with some decent bass.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/whisler151/2007%20CTS-V/IMG_0472.jpg?t=1294168585

junoreactor
01-04-11, 04:09 PM
Just upgrading the subwoofer alone as whisler151 did above will make a huge difference. The bass adds so much warmth and energy to the music. I didn't think the speakers sounded that bad for factory, unless you turned it up a bit. I changed everything anyway and it sounds incredible. That JBL bp1200 amp as seen above is a very good sub amp for the money. I'd check them out for sure.

lilgCTS-V
01-04-11, 04:36 PM
can you list the parts needed to just do a sub and amp like you did, cuz i will probably pull the trigger soon

Castro
01-04-11, 05:07 PM
Yea same question here, I've been thinking about a simple sub/amp for the trunk as well. Don't you need some kind of special adapter for use with the stock head unit?

heavymetals
01-04-11, 05:57 PM
Yea same question here, I've been thinking about a simple sub/amp for the trunk as well. Don't you need some kind of special adapter for use with the stock head unit?

No.

You just need a mono amp with a "high level" (speaker level) input.

You just connect the sub-woofer leads to the amp input then the amp out to the new sub-woofer.

You grab the amp on from the keyswitch (brown wire).

You grab power from the fuse boxes under the front of the rear seat.

PrelateBishop
01-05-11, 01:46 AM
No.

You just need a mono amp with a "high level" (speaker level) input.

You just connect the sub-woofer leads to the amp input then the amp out to the new sub-woofer.

You grab the amp on from the keyswitch (brown wire).

You grab power from the fuse boxes under the front of the rear seat.

You used the OEM mounting location for your aftermarket sub...excellent! Mine sharing make/model of the sub?

whisler151
01-05-11, 12:07 PM
can you list the parts needed to just do a sub and amp like you did, cuz i will probably pull the trigger soon

I'm not sure. I walked into Car Toys with an amp and sub with box and told them I wanted it in the trunk. They told me there was $150 in parts including the amp power cable from the battery, the interface to the stock sub amp/bose system, and a few other things. My stock sub is still functional. In fact, when I turn the installed bass knob all the way down it cuts the power to the sub, making the system stock again. That way if I ever need to take the sub out the stock system is still functional.

The added bass makes the car's stereo sound so much better. Its amazing what some good bass will do to the overall listening experience.

heavymetals
01-05-11, 12:46 PM
You used the OEM mounting location for your aftermarket sub...excellent! Mine sharing make/model of the sub?

Sub is discontinued.

Check here:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=574

JCaddyV
01-05-11, 01:45 PM
No.

You just need a mono amp with a "high level" (speaker level) input.

You just connect the sub-woofer leads to the amp input then the amp out to the new sub-woofer.

You grab the amp on from the keyswitch (brown wire).

You grab power from the fuse boxes under the front of the rear seat.

Is the stock sub a 10"? Also I noticed the subs say 4 ohm and 2 ohm huh? When it comes to numbers and specs on speakers/amps I am clueless but when it comes to wiring a headunit I'm golden. lol

heavymetals
01-05-11, 02:01 PM
Stock sub is 10".

You may have to remove some material from the hole ID to make a different 10" fit.

(I did). no big deal.

PM me your email address and I will send pics and wiring schematic.

GM made Reed pull down the wiring schematic so I won't post it.

cmiller
01-05-11, 08:06 PM
Heavy - apparently I am too new to send a PM, how long do I have to wait?

heavymetals
01-05-11, 09:02 PM
Heavy - apparently I am too new to send a PM, how long do I have to wait?

If you become a supporting member, immediately. :thumbsup:

You can wait, or you can post your email address in a post, but then whatever spam/junk you get after that is your problem.

Castro
01-06-11, 09:27 AM
I found an Alpine sub/amp setup that I'm seriously considering (it's cheap) and wondering if there is anything I'm missing, any thoughts on these items?

Alpine MRP-M500 Amp 1-channel

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013TQ6FK/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A2LYDS8AIU9VMR

Technical Details:
RMS Power Per Channel Into 4 Ohms: 300W X 1
RMS Power Per Channel Into 2 Ohms: 500W X 1
2 Single Voice Coil Subs Or 1 Dual Voice Coil Works Best
Number 1 Rated Amp In The US

Product Description:
Amplifier Type: Class-D (Digital)
Channel Design: 1 Channel (Mono)
Thermal Control: Thermal Management Control
Power Supply: DC-DC PWM Power Supply
Power Supply Design: MOSFET Power
Board Circuitry: STAR Circuitry
Current Protection: Over-Current, Over-Voltage and Thermal Protection
Power Indicator: Top Mounted Blue LED Power Indicator
RCA Output: Gold Plated RCA Input Connectors
Speaker-Level Inputs: Speaker Level Inputs
Crossover: Adjustable Low-Pass
Connector Plating: Gold Plated Input, Output, Power and Speaker Terminals
Board Design: Dual Sided Glass Epoxy PC Board
Gain Control: Continuously Adjustable Gain Control

Alpine Type R SWR-1242D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009NXN7K/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A3H89ADJHTH9SN

They both get great reviews and a lot of the reviews reference using these together. Any complications with these in the V you think? I'm hopeless when it comes to stereo stuff... any input would be helpful.

whisler151
01-06-11, 10:41 AM
Alpine Type R SWR-1242D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009NXN7K/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A3H89ADJHTH9SN

They both get great reviews and a lot of the reviews reference using these together. Any complications with these in the V you think? I'm hopeless when it comes to stereo stuff... any input would be helpful.

That's the same sub I have. I am very happy with it. See pic in post #7.

JimmyH
01-06-11, 12:57 PM
I don't get it. I am not an audiophile, but I thought the system in my 05 V was superb. You guys should get in a another car with a "high-end" system and compare. I have a Boston Acoustics in my Camaro, and it's crap compared to the Bose in the V. The Mark Levinson, or whichever one it is in my boss' Lexus doesn't compare either.

I thought the sound in the V had very good bass response. And overall, very clean. No popping or distortion whatsoever. Even the Bose 5.1 in my 09 CTS was not as good.

whisler151
01-06-11, 01:06 PM
I am not an audiophile, but I thought the system in my 05 V was superb.

I don't doubt that you did.

heavymetals
01-06-11, 01:15 PM
The system in Mr. Vette sounded worse.

Oh, guess what, it was a BOSE also.

What I really hate about GM/Cadillac is that they totally screwed the aftermarket stereo equipment makers to replace the head unit.

At least with Mr. Vette, I could (and did) change out everything.

JD03Cobra
01-06-11, 02:42 PM
My wife's Acadia is unreal compared to the V. Great car, wimpy stereo.

wcryan
01-06-11, 03:44 PM
just need to add a 10" JL in the trunk and it makes it sound that much better. 300$ later

cmiller
01-06-11, 04:35 PM
wcryan - can you give us any details about the sub and amp you used as well as how to connect it? I stopped by a car audio shop and they are trying to sell me a $2,000 system. I am looking for the $300 to $500 solution.

thanks

kevm14
01-06-11, 09:53 PM
I don't get it. I am not an audiophile, but I thought the system in my 05 V was superb. You guys should get in a another car with a "high-end" system and compare. I have a Boston Acoustics in my Camaro, and it's crap compared to the Bose in the V. The Mark Levinson, or whichever one it is in my boss' Lexus doesn't compare either.

I thought the sound in the V had very good bass response. And overall, very clean. No popping or distortion whatsoever. Even the Bose 5.1 in my 09 CTS was not as good.

You're not alone, I like it, too. I think a lot of people like bass-heavy music, though I'm sure someone will "correct" me. I will also say that especially with my Magnaflow, the stock sub could stand to be turned up while driving. But parked, the system sounds pretty good, imo.

JCaddyV
01-07-11, 09:00 AM
What does everyone think about the JL Audio 10W0v2-4 (10" 300W SVC 4-Ohm W0 Series Component Car Subwoofer Driver).Also how do I know what Amp is the best Amp for a sub I pick.

EdmundGTP
01-07-11, 03:14 PM
As far as a sub amplifier is concerned, the only thing you really need to "match" with the speaker is the wattage/impedance ratings. And there's even some flexibility there. If you're just looking to add a single 10" or 12" simple sub setup to the car, you really shouldn't need any more than 200-300 watts for adequate output. Find an amp from a reputable car audio manufacturer that has high level inputs, a low pass crossover, a bass boost (optional), and the appropriate wattage for your sub and its respective impedance and you're good to go

JCaddyV
01-07-11, 03:57 PM
As far as a sub amplifier is concerned, the only thing you really need to "match" with the speaker is the wattage/impedance ratings. And there's even some flexibility there. If you're just looking to add a single 10" or 12" simple sub setup to the car, you really shouldn't need any more than 200-300 watts for adequate output. Find an amp from a reputable car audio manufacturer that has high level inputs, a low pass crossover, a bass boost (optional), and the appropriate wattage for your sub and its respective impedance and you're good to go


Thanks for the info. I'll be out your way next week tempe/scottsdale area the 12th to the 18th visting fam.

CancerJCC
01-07-11, 06:18 PM
As far as a sub amplifier is concerned, the only thing you really need to "match" with the speaker is the wattage/impedance ratings. And there's even some flexibility there. If you're just looking to add a single 10" or 12" simple sub setup to the car, you really shouldn't need any more than 200-300 watts for adequate output. Find an amp from a reputable car audio manufacturer that has high level inputs, a low pass crossover, a bass boost (optional), and the appropriate wattage for your sub and its respective impedance and you're good to go


Good information. Another couple notes are that RMS wattage is like wheel horsepower while the peak number that the manufacturers use for advertising is like crank HP. :) RMS is sustained power. Also be aware that if you go the route Heavy did, which I love, you will need a sub designed for "free air" as opposed to most models that are designed for a sealed box.

JFensty
01-07-11, 06:40 PM
Any thoughts about piggy-backing the wiring to the orig sub with the high level inputs on the amp. That way if you turn the amp off or down the stock sub is still working, and it can also be used as a deep mid as well with the aftermarket sub on. (this of course is with an enclosure not sub replacement)

heavymetals
01-07-11, 06:57 PM
The stock sub woofer doesn't even make a good doorstop.

whisler151
01-07-11, 07:20 PM
Any thoughts about piggy-backing the wiring to the orig sub with the high level inputs on the amp. That way if you turn the amp off or down the stock sub is still working, and it can also be used as a deep mid as well with the aftermarket sub on. (this of course is with an enclosure not sub replacement)

That is how mine is set up. In the event that I need to take the aftermarket sub out, the stock sub will still be intact and functioning.

cmiller
01-07-11, 08:08 PM
I can't find the Alpine SWR-1242D but Best Buy has the Alpine SWR-1243D which has 2 voice coils and has an 8 ohm resistance. Will this sub work good with the Alpine MRP-M500 amp? What does 2 voice coils do and how do you connect a mono channel amp to it? Thanks

garrettg
01-17-12, 10:43 PM
No.

You just need a mono amp with a "high level" (speaker level) input.

You just connect the sub-woofer leads to the amp input then the amp out to the new sub-woofer.

You grab the amp on from the keyswitch (brown wire).

You grab power from the fuse boxes under the front of the rear seat.

Can you explain how you were able to fit a 10inch sub in there. Did you remove the plastic plate up top? I am trying to drop a 10inch infinity kappa but the glass is in the way.

ctsvdubbz
01-18-12, 03:35 AM
i used a line output converter hooked it into the factory sub... and that pretty much keeps all ur wires short and in the rear of the car.. need to run a power from the battery a ground and a remote from one of the fuse boxes infront of your rear seats under the carpet... i thought it was gona be a huge issue but it was actually quite easy... trunk is kind air tight.. with the seats down it sounded like 5xs louder than it did with the seats up...

612WharfAvenue
01-18-12, 09:02 AM
One would hope the trunk is mostly sealed from the cabin given the factory sub's a free air.

calidave
01-21-12, 03:20 AM
The Bose amp changes the EQ as you turn up the volume -- most notably, it turns down the lower frequencies (to keep that horrid 10" stock sub from bottoming out). If you want really good bass, get a summing device (I use the MTX RE-Q5 and love it, though if you're only going to add a sub the RE-Q will do fine). It's designed to reverse the changes the Bose amp makes to the signal. Best part is, you don't need to get an amp with high-level inputs, and if you get the RE-Q5 you don't need to grab the 12v from under the seat (for remote on).. it'll sense signal, turn on/off automatically, and provide a remote on for your amp. Just run the 4ga wire from the battery and splice into the signal wires going to the stock sub. Easy as pie.

It's a little pricier than a regular high-low converter but works and sounds SO much better.

garrettg
01-23-12, 11:11 AM
The Bose amp changes the EQ as you turn up the volume -- most notably, it turns down the lower frequencies (to keep that horrid 10" stock sub from bottoming out). If you want really good bass, get a summing device (I use the MTX RE-Q5 and love it, though if you're only going to add a sub the RE-Q will do fine). It's designed to reverse the changes the Bose amp makes to the signal. Best part is, you don't need to get an amp with high-level inputs, and if you get the RE-Q5 you don't need to grab the 12v from under the seat (for remote on).. it'll sense signal, turn on/off automatically, and provide a remote on for your amp. Just run the 4ga wire from the battery and splice into the signal wires going to the stock sub. Easy as pie.

It's a little pricier than a regular high-low converter but works and sounds SO much better.

Would the Audiocontrol LC2i be a good option if just adding a sub amp/sub only feeding it with the factory sub speaker wires. The RE-Q seems to get mixed reviews concerning longevity issues.

xbladr
01-24-12, 02:46 AM
I am interested in all of this stuff there is a lot of good info here. I like how heavymetal set it up it looks clean and simple. I was also thinking of putting a 10" free air sub to replace the stocker. I havent heard anything about the RE-Q5 i may have to read up on it

Wingsfan4life
01-25-12, 12:52 PM
Here's an option for those who would wanna keep factory head unit, but wanna add additional amps and speakers...Audio Control has been proved outstanding thru the years and have had several audio systems with using Audio Control for OEM intergration, and signal processors..check em out

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/250786/OEM-Integration/Line-Output-Converter-with-Auxiliary-Input----LC7.html

calidave
01-25-12, 04:26 PM
Would the Audiocontrol LC2i be a good option if just adding a sub amp/sub only feeding it with the factory sub speaker wires. The RE-Q seems to get mixed reviews concerning longevity issues.

That looks like it'll do the job, yes.