: Why me? Two Northstars with failed head bolts/gaskets



maeng9981
12-28-10, 04:38 AM
I was thinking about having a quick road trip before new year to enjoy the holiday time and new years with my Cadillacs. I knew my 00 SLS started to develop the symptoms of failing HG - back in May 2010.

So I was trying to work on my 99 Deville (rear shocks leaking air issue) ASAP. The car has been running probably once a week since I found that the rear shocks were leaking(a few weeks ago). I finally completed the repair today and took her out for a test drive. Everything worked as it should and I was really amused for everything, gave it a few WOTs and got back home with happy face.

Since the fuel gauge is inoperative, I usually rely on the "gallons used" info, but usually set the DIC on RPMs. This time I accidently pressed the info button once more and found this:

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9679/12271945.jpg (http://img530.imageshack.us/i/12271945.jpg/)

Temp stayed at 231 when I first stopped and started to rise as I drove around the neighborhood. Temp shot up to 248, and that was when I ended testing, thinking that it would do more damage than good.

My happy face was gone. At first I didn't think it should be HG's since it never happened before. Seen it climbing up to 226 when idling or stuck in a heavy summer traffic before - that's all. Stayed at 195-200 on highway, 205-220 in city or WOT. I thought it must be a blockage or something, and popped the hood, inspected that both fans were running. Water pump was rotating freely also. Belt needed to be replaced since it was old though.

Went ahead and ate dinner. After it, I went to Autozone and bought a new belt, and borrowed the block test kit just for the heck of it. Was hoping for the best but the worst came true; it turned yellow in three sniffs.

So now I have two semi-working Northstar Cadillacs to fix. What a great year the 2010 was?

Actually I was planning to drain and refill coolant after the suspension work since it is getting close to 2 years since last service. I thought regular 2 year coolant maintenance was the only preventative method; both of my Northstars got a pretty good maintenance and still has head issue.

I am currently thinking about doing the job by myself, to either save money and get experiences. Will gather some friends for help. I am at least trying to remove the engine, but will attempt to do the stud work also. (Will use Jake's Suregrip)

I searched and read those engine removal threads in this forum. Printed off the FSM. I should have questions in the middle of it though; I think I will be using this thread for that and uploading overall progress. Basically I am looking for a good engine hoist for it to start with. Seville will be repaired first since it is desperate (and actually in better condition than the Deville).

Hope this works out and I should end up with 2 working Northstar Cadillacs.

drewsdeville
12-28-10, 08:50 AM
You aren't alone.

The fact that there are multiple members that have had multiple failures really makes me wonder what kind of numbers we are dealing with. It's hard to believe that people like yourself just had some bad luck...that you and others got a 1 in 5,000 failure twice. We'll never be certain, but threads like this, local sales ads, and the number of clean, older, northstar powered Cadillacs in my local junkyards has me thinking that it's worse than the general consensus here.

Everyone here swore that the 2000+ fix would keep the numbers down, but they must be getting to the ripe age for failure now because recently they began popping up more frequently than in the past. I suspect the same will happen once the 2004's get old enough.

But, even if the HG failure is quite high, there have been other engines with similar failures. It's just such a controversial topic because in the instance of these Cadillacs as the correct repair solution is such a resource sucker, whether that be the time the car is out of commission for a DIY'er or the shear cost (thousands of $) for another person. The cost of the solution can cost as much as half the value of the car or more...hard to swallow for many (probably explains the clean examples in the junkyards).

Outside of this nagging problem, they are great engines. And at least we are fortunate enough for Jake's offering of his developments if/when the problem occurs.

vincentm
12-28-10, 09:10 AM
Mine failed the blocktest, and tried to do the repair myself and got close to taking the engine out, but couldn't continue, ive the stud kit, and new seals and gaskets but dont have the time and help to do the fix myself and put it all back together successfully. My coolant temp stays at 188, no matter how much i open her up, i still have no leaks, and no smoke coming out the pipes.

just hit 130k yesterday, this past Sunday i did a coolant flush, with sealant tabs, and an oil change. and my baby runs great, but i still take it really easy on her, no hills,and no driving past 60mph

stoveguyy
12-28-10, 12:36 PM
did my heads 3yrs ago. 12k miles. i have not revved the motor over 4k yet. and now i am getting a cold motor tap/rap. goes away when warm. car has always been parked in garage till this year. am parked outside now. starts fine but the tap is annoying. can a motor carbon up in 3yrs? i cleaned pistons/heads so maybe it just took awhile to crud up?

Submariner409
12-28-10, 02:11 PM
[QUOTE=stoveguyy;2451958 i have not revved the motor over 4k yet. and now i am getting a cold motor tap/rap. /QUOTE]

There's your problem, Granny. :sneaky:

maeng9981
12-28-10, 03:40 PM
The fact that there are multiple members that have had multiple failures really makes me wonder what kind of numbers we are dealing with. It's hard to believe that people like yourself just had some bad luck...that you and others got a 1 in 5,000 failure twice. We'll never be certain, but threads like this, local sales ads, and the number of clean, older, northstar powered Cadillacs in my local junkyards has me thinking that it's worse than the general consensus here.

Same here, I am really wondering what the actual number would be. Now my 99 Deville popped so all of the Northstars that I personally know popped the head. Seriously. I really think that's a lot more than normal. People say 2004 Camry's are also problematic but I've never seen that era camry going to a shop for a head gasket repair (and I know more camry drivers than northstar drivers).

Also I've been replying on some threads that I see a lot of 00&01 failures recently. They are mostly in low mileages also. To me it looks like 97-99 usually pops by mileage (usually around 120,000 miles) and 00-up usually pops depending on the age (looks like 10 years is the point).



just hit 130k yesterday, this past Sunday i did a coolant flush, with sealant tabs, and an oil change. and my baby runs great, but i still take it really easy on her, no hills,and no driving past 60mph

Since I am seeing a high number of coolant temp by those exhaust gases.....also I can't stand driving slow :D One of the nagging problems is, that the cold start misfire on Seville is kinda scary. Can get away with relieveing system pressure after a drive, but I can't do that every time I drive. Also Northstar engines need exercises every day. I am planning to keep there cars for long so repairing would be very essential since at least I don't have to worry about it later.

tateos
12-28-10, 04:52 PM
Only 2 different cars with failed head gaskets? Nothing! As many of you know, my original '97 ETC engine failed at 34K, due to what the dealer called block porosity. Cadillac installed a complete new engine, which blew HGs at 121K, then I had installed a used engine with 89K on it, and that engine blew HGs at 144K, which I repaired myself, with Norm's. (at 165K, the car is still on the road). So, when I installed the engine after repairs, that was the 4th time an engine was installed in that 1 car.

maeng9981
12-28-10, 05:00 PM
Only 2 different cars with failed head gaskets? Nothing! As many of you know, my original '97 ETC engine failed at 34K, due to what the dealer called block porosity. Cadillac installed a complete new engine, which blew HGs at 121K, then I had installed a used engine with 89K on it, and that engine blew HGs at 144K, which I repaired myself, with Norm's. (at 165K, the car is still on the road). So, when I installed the engine after repairs, that was the 4th time an engine was installed in that 1 car.

Never heard of block porosity. Is it some kind of related to the "new" Dex-Cool issue? By the way that's a lot of engines going through one car, glad to hear that yours sounds like it's finally got a reliable repair.

Submariner409
12-28-10, 07:10 PM
Never heard of block porosity. Is it some kind of related to the "new" Dex-Cool issue? By the way that's a lot of engines going through one car, glad to hear that yours sounds like it's finally got a reliable repair.

Not DEX-COOL related - it has to do with ash and casting faults in the block metal itself. Different technique and metallurgy for 2000 and +.

Find several of AJxtcman's posts with pictures of voids down in several block head bolt holes - in some pics as much as 1/5 of the entire hole thread surface is a black pit.

ThumperPup
12-28-10, 09:31 PM
Never heard of block porosity. Is it some kind of related to the "new" Dex-Cool issue? By the way that's a lot of engines going through one car, glad to hear that yours sounds like it's finally got a reliable repair.

i thout it was the old Dex formula that was bad whats up with the new one ?

ponyboyt
12-28-10, 09:32 PM
what about blocks manufactured after 2000 for PRE!- 2000 cars? I have 3 of these now... manufacture dates Nov 2001, July 2002, and July 2003. All 3 are for pre-2000 cars.

i also have a VIN9 out of a 98 concours here with over 400,000 km's on it and no sign of HG failure, no carbon rap, and no ticking top-end o.o

vincentm
12-28-10, 11:27 PM
Here's mine after driving for about a half hour on the freeway, parked at a blockbuster and took this pic, seconds after coming to a stop:


It won't get any hotter, and it even dipped down to 181f, after getting back on the freeway

ThumperPup
12-29-10, 01:25 AM
Here's mine after driving for about a half hour on the freeway, parked at a blockbuster and took this pic, seconds after coming to a stop:


It won't get any hotter, and it even dipped down to 181f, after getting back on the freeway

i see picks alal the time of these where you can see the temp red out in the digi display on 1999 and older how come i cant do this on the 2000 anyone know ?

maeng9981
12-29-10, 03:02 AM
It won't get any hotter, and it even dipped down to 181f, after getting back on the freeway

That sounds kinda too cool for a Northstar, since the OEM thermostat starts to open at 188 and opens fully at 206. Noticed that your temp gauge is not getting to the middle. It looks like you might have a wrong thermostat. Just curious, what kind of codes are you getting(for your SES light)?



i see picks alal the time of these where you can see the temp red out in the digi display on 1999 and older how come i cant do this on the 2000 anyone know ?

98+ Seville instrument cluster is a complete different one. Only used in 98+ Sevilles and 00-05 DTS.

mhamilton
12-29-10, 09:50 AM
i see picks alal the time of these where you can see the temp red out in the digi display on 1999 and older how come i cant do this on the 2000 anyone know ?

You can add it through the IPC options through the HVAC panel:


http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/89579-how-shut-off-drls-add-digital.html

NOTES
THIS ONLY WORKS FOR THE FOLLOWING MODELS!!!
96-02 Eldorado, ETC, ESC
96-97 Seville, STS, SLS
96-99 Deville, Concourse, DeElegance

~~~~~TO ADD COOLANT AND MPH DIC MESSAGE~~~~~
1) Press the OFF and PASS WARMER (referred to from here as WARMER) buttons simultaneously to enter diagnostic mode.

2) Let the system read any codes it has stored. You will ultimately be presented with "PCM?". You will answer with the fan speed control button. UP = yes and DOWN = no.

3) Press DOWN until you are presented with "IPC?". On mine, it's the very next prompt. When you get to the "IPC?" prompt, press UP to enter the IPC area (Instrument Panel Cluster).

4) Press DOWN until you are presented with "IPC OVERRIDE?". Press UP to enter the override area.

5) Scroll down (with the DOWN button) until you get to Option E. Wait a second or two, and the override value will appear to the right where the TRIP ODOMETER normally reads. Yours will probably read "43". That's what mine read when I first did this.

Below are the Option E values:

- Coolant Temp message (64)
- Battery Volts message (32)
- Engine RPM message (16)
- Avg Mph message (8)
- Mph message (4)
- Fuel Used message (2)
- Inst Mpg message (1)

The stock displays (for analog E/K displays) are Battery Volts, Avg Mph, Fuel Used, and Inst Mpg, for a total value of "43".

6) Use the WARMER button to increment the value of the override. In this case, we want to add Coolant Temp, so we're going to add "64" to "43", or "107". Press the WARMER button repeatedly to increment the value from "43" to "107".

If you make a mistake, you can decrement the value by pressing the COOLER button.

7) To permanently save the new value, hold the FRONT DEFROST and the A/C buttons simultaneously until the new override value flashes once.

8) You're done. Press OFF repeatedly to "back out" of the diagnostic system. You'll probably need to press OFF 5 or 6 times to get out of the deep "menu structure" you're in now.

Now, the coolant temp (in units specified) should be one "stop" along the revolving door we call the DIC. If you are in metric units, the coolant temp will read in *C. If you are in standard units, it'll read in *F.

Submariner409
12-29-10, 11:43 AM
Pup, You can't do it - neither can I.

Save your bucks for a while and take a look at www.scangauge.com - great little instrument. Tells you more than you ever wanted to know about what's going on under the hood................

or, print this out and memorize it................2000+...............

mhamilton
12-29-10, 01:57 PM
Pup, You can't do it - neither can I.

Ooops... nevermind my previous post. I can't keep up with what the pre/post 1998 Sevilles can and can't do... I should stop trying lol

ThumperPup
12-30-10, 02:20 AM
Pup, You can't do it - neither can I.

Save your bucks for a while and take a look at www.scangauge.com - great little instrument. Tells you more than you ever wanted to know about what's going on under the hood................

or, print this out and memorize it................2000+...............

thanks man
i know ppl say its normal for the temp to rais above the half way has on these
i still get nervouse because even with the rebuilt engine iv seen it go to like 210 a few times but backs right down normaly


i seen that scan gage ones or twice iw as thinking about it
does it have to be pugged into the OBD11 constantly to work ?
only thing with that is i dont wana have alot of wires or anymroe wires showing visable in the car

ponyboyt
12-30-10, 08:35 AM
personaly i LIKE it when my temp goes a little above half and snaps back down. It tells me that everything is working and all is good to go. My fans are working, the gauge works, i have good coolant flow, and the system is doing its job. Obviously the temp will have to go up a bit some times, especially in warm weather or traffic. The only time you need to worry is... well, the car will tell you. i think there are 3 stages of warnings.... 1: "A/C off", 2: ENGINE HOT / IDLE ENGINE (STOP ENGINE?), 3: limp-home / 4 cylinder mode.

I remember driving mine about 20 km's in limp mode, no coolant in the system, down the highway doing 100 km/h. Got to the shop and shut it off, it started right back up instantly, temp needle pinned to the right the whole time.

Submariner409
12-30-10, 10:28 AM
iv seen it go to like 210

It is perfectly normal to see that gauge go to 224 in traffic with no A/C function set: fans are then controlled by the ECT sensor: ON at 224, OFF at 213. Back and forth. Fast at 236.


does it have to be pugged into the OBD11 constantly to work ?
only thing with that is i dont wana have alot of wires or anymroe wires showing visable in the car

Yes, the ScanGauge remains plugged into the OBD-II port: it monitors every bit of data on the car's serial bus. I ran the small cable across the steering column, out to the rubber trim molding at the door body edge, tucked it inside the molding, up to the side of the driver's sun visor. The gauge sits on a velcro patch on the slightly tilted visor edge. You cannot see any wires. Go to their website and click on "photos". The mounting possibilities are endless.

postman2000
12-30-10, 11:13 AM
Hello, I was reading the post above about adding the coolant temp to the DIC. My question is, will you still have the other functions that were there? Specifically the battery voltage? So basically my question is are we just adding this feature without messing with the factory options.. Thanks for the good post...Charlie

Submariner409
12-30-10, 01:56 PM
Hello, I was reading the post above about adding the coolant temp to the DIC. My question is, will you still have the other functions that were there? Specifically the battery voltage? So basically my question is are we just adding this feature without messing with the factory options.. Thanks for the good post...Charlie

On SOME models (not yours) the addition of readouts for temps/pressures is in addition to those already available from the factory - moot, because your (and my) DIC's don't allow such changes.

Again, www.scangauge.com

ThumperPup
12-30-10, 06:23 PM
Yes, the ScanGauge remains plugged into the OBD-II port: it monitors every bit of data on the car's serial bus. I ran the small cable across the steering column, out to the rubber trim molding at the door body edge, tucked it inside the molding, up to the side of the driver's sun visor. The gauge sits on a velcro patch on the slightly tilted visor edge. You cannot see any wires. Go to their website and click on "photos". The mounting possibilities are endless.

awesome cool thanks sub
im gona work on gettign one of those things in the next 6 months
the next thing i want to do is
i gota go to the body shop the fenders where they are bowed out because the jerk at some shop must have put the lift pads under the fenders so i want to get that taken care of had a body shop give me a quate of 200 even to fix those
becaus ether eis no paint work needed or anyting

then i want to get the hood sandplasted and painted becaus eof the rust area right where the hood and the grill meet
and then the body will be just like i want it to be well atleast close to it lol

then problaby gota another 5k before i need to get atleast 2 new tires wich is when the rotation time would be after all that is said and doen then ill get one of those scanners since nothign els i need right now

Destroyer
01-07-11, 09:58 PM
You aren't alone.

The fact that there are multiple members that have had multiple failures really makes me wonder what kind of numbers we are dealing with. It's hard to believe that people like yourself just had some bad luck...that you and others got a 1 in 5,000 failure twice. We'll never be certain, but threads like this, local sales ads, and the number of clean, older, northstar powered Cadillacs in my local junkyards has me thinking that it's worse than the general consensus here.

Everyone here swore that the 2000+ fix would keep the numbers down, but they must be getting to the ripe age for failure now because recently they began popping up more frequently than in the past. I suspect the same will happen once the 2004's get old enough.

But, even if the HG failure is quite high, there have been other engines with similar failures. It's just such a controversial topic because in the instance of these Cadillacs as the correct repair solution is such a resource sucker, whether that be the time the car is out of commission for a DIY'er or the shear cost (thousands of $) for another person. The cost of the solution can cost as much as half the value of the car or more...hard to swallow for many (probably explains the clean examples in the junkyards).

Outside of this nagging problem, they are great engines. And at least we are fortunate enough for Jake's offering of his developments if/when the problem occurs.
Gee, maybe I was right a long time ago eh?:bonkers:

drewsdeville
01-07-11, 10:05 PM
Oh? Did I miss something?

Jesda
01-07-11, 10:56 PM
Oh? Did I miss something?

Years ago we had a lot of discussion over how widespread the problem was.

johnny kannapo
01-08-11, 06:22 PM
I have said it before- the main cause of head gasket failure is buying a Northstar...........

ponyboyt
01-09-11, 05:42 AM
I have 3 here that prove all the nay-sayers wrong. Then again, i have at least 6 lined up that will smoke out my shop in about 30 seconds :P

maeng9981
01-13-11, 08:56 PM
eh, decided to dump some scary pictures and video.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/4729/01071818.th.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/01071818.jpg/)
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/697/01071905.th.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/i/01071905.jpg/)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdbYhKUK4jo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UKxdOQTz1w

I thought if the SES light flashes it will set P0300 code? That happened to me twice and I found no codes.

Anyway the car is ready for engine removal now.

maeng9981
01-15-11, 06:43 PM
I am about to get the work started. Thinking about when I lift the body with engine hoist, the back of the car (exhaust and everything) would hit the ground and get destroyed. To avoid this I am thinking to put the rear wheels on wood or something, does it sound okay?

tateos
01-18-11, 08:02 PM
Not necessary - the outlet pipes may touch, but will not be damaged. You don't need to lift the front end all that much. Look at a few of the pics on post 25 of my thread to see what I mean:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/126253-97-etc-n-head-gasket-project-2.html

maeng9981
01-19-11, 03:15 AM
I thought I went over that thread but obviously I am missing some stuff in there. Gotta re-read that thread. Thank you!

tateos
01-19-11, 09:34 PM
Yeah - overall, it went well - try not to make a few of the mistakes I made and related. Let me (or all of us) know if you get into it and get stuck - it's a lengthy and complex process, and so a little scary, but it's really not hard at all.

maeng9981
01-20-11, 12:37 AM
I will try my best, this will surely test my mechanical skills :) Thank you. Sure will ask questions here! By the way if it does not rain tomorrow, I will try to work on it.

maeng9981
01-30-11, 08:30 PM
(Seville)
Starting from yesterday I have most of the things disconnected, but I am having trouble with some things.

1) How do I disconnect CVRSS connector?
2) I am a little bit confused with removing brake lines, I disconnected those two rear ones but I don't know where to disconnect the front two.
3) What exactly I have to remove (or disconnect) from the front wheel house?
4) My Seville does not seem to have an oil cooler (cannot find lines) so it would be safe to ignore those steps, right?
5) Any tips on disconnecting the intermediate shaft pinch bolt? I cannot get to it easily, attempted several times but no luck.
6) Is it necessary to plug the open A/C holes? I've seen those used/reman. compressors with plugs, so I thought it might be necessary for some reason....
7) Step 51-53 on FSM says...
    51. Remove the brace between the engine oil pan and the transaxle case.
    52. Remove the torque converter cover. Refer to Torque Converter Cover Replacement in Automatic Transaxle-4T80-E.
    53. Remove the torque converter to the flywheel bolts.
Are these steps necessary for just dropping the cradle?

Thank you, I will upload pics soon.

drewsdeville
02-01-11, 10:06 AM
You should be able to get at the pinch bolt through the left side wheelwell with the help of a few extensions and a u-joint.

It's good practice to plug the AC lines to prevent moisture/condensation intrusion. I usually just rubber band some sandwich bags over the ends.

tateos
02-02-11, 09:24 PM
Yes - through the wheel well - then lift the boot with one hand and guide the socket/extension/ratchet into place with the other hand - may have to turn the steering wheel a little one direction or another to get the bolt to face just the right way. Make sure you take the bolt completely out.. then can probably push the steering intermediate shaft further up the steering column and off the rack input shaft.

#7 - no, no, and no

maeng9981
03-16-11, 04:44 PM
Quick! Everything is disassembled and I need to lift the body. I am thinking to use multiple ratchet straps, but where do I attach those? I was thinking to wrap those around the upper radiator support but it seemed too weak. Do I wrap it around the upper & lower radiator support? Or would the upper radiator support hold the weight?

Or, are ratchet straps too weak for this job?

Ranger
03-16-11, 10:14 PM
Upper radiator support should do the job.

maeng9981
03-16-11, 11:26 PM
Alright, tomorrow I will finally remove the engine from the car. Can't wait. Thank you.

tateos
03-17-11, 01:08 PM
I used the front bumper struts/supports. For pics, look at my thread here - post # 25:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/126253-97-etc-n-head-gasket-project-2.html

maeng9981
03-18-11, 02:50 AM
I used the front bumper struts/supports. For pics, look at my thread here - post # 25:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion/126253-97-etc-n-head-gasket-project-2.html


I've changed my mind after seeing those again. Bought a lengthy chain and used those to hold the front end.

Anyway, with hours of work and several scratches, scars, and cuts, the engine is out.

maeng9981
03-18-11, 02:58 AM
The one thing I had trouble while removing the engine was that I had to remove the main wires while the engine was half way out. The HO2S after the catalytic converter had no connectors to it and I was not sure how to remove the HO2S so I just decided to remove the entire main engine wiring harness (everything from or to PCM). I thought it'd come out with the engine.

Also I didn't think anything about the water-cooled alternator. I thought they were 98&99 thing, but certainly my car has it. FSM does not mention it so I almost proceeded to lift the body with one cooler line still attached.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/7901/sam0045w.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/sam0045w.jpg/)
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9892/sam0060j.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/i/sam0060j.jpg/)
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1266/sam0067u.jpg (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/sam0067u.jpg/)
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/3586/sam0074u.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/sam0074u.jpg/)
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6190/sam0077p.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/sam0077p.jpg/)
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/147/sam0082a.jpg (http://img718.imageshack.us/i/sam0082a.jpg/)
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/9631/sam0088r.jpg (http://img30.imageshack.us/i/sam0088r.jpg/)
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3237/sam0093.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/sam0093.jpg/)

There is no oil leak from the halfcase & rear main seal, so I am planning to leave those alone and only stud the block. Can't wait until I open this.

drewsdeville
03-18-11, 10:31 AM
Nice clean southern car. Things never look that pretty around here...

JoeTahoe
03-18-11, 10:31 AM
looks really clean, what I would do to work on a rust free car!!!!

drewsdeville
03-18-11, 10:33 AM
lol Joe :highfive:

stoveguyy
03-18-11, 10:43 AM
i took my motor out the top. yes, a job from hell. since subframe/trans were still it car, it did not seem so extreme. kinda like yanking the motor on my 66 mustang. i had motor on stand for a few weeks. than put it back in car. wife asked where did motor go? not sure if she thought i got rid of it? i said it was back in car and she seemed surprised.

tateos
03-18-11, 01:40 PM
Looks like you attached chain and lifted from the same points as me - I'm not saying it's necessarily the best or easiest way to do it, and there is the very simple but extra step of removing the headlights, but it's very solid and secure, so it was what I felt comfortable doing.

JoeTahoe
03-18-11, 03:00 PM
I thought they quit making the sevilles in 02-03!! I think that seville looks like a 08-09!!!! That is one sweet car

maeng9981
03-18-11, 04:20 PM
Looks like you attached chain and lifted from the same points as me - I'm not saying it's necessarily the best or easiest way to do it, and there is the very simple but extra step of removing the headlights, but it's very solid and secure, so it was what I felt comfortable doing.

Yes, it actually looked better than using radiator supports. Also it gave me a little bit more clearance since I could lift the very front of the car. I was kind of worrying about the structural damage when not done correctly (or if something fails and the car falls, trust me it's nerve-racking), but with using bumper joints, it didn't even make any noises while lifting. Very secure. Just used appropriate chains (heavy duty or 2,000+lb capacity would be enough) to have a peace of mind.


I thought they quit making the sevilles in 02-03!! I think that seville looks like a 08-09!!!! That is one sweet car

Thank you, I was actually surprised that everything would come out rather easy. I was expecting several stuck bolts because the drivetrain has never been touched since 2000. The one and only big job in 10 years was replacing the steering rack due to a broken rack mount.

I'd say this car had never seen road salt; at least what I know is that it has been driven on snow but usually on the fresh snow that nobody has driven on yet. Some cities around here only use sand to take care of icy roads due to corrosion problem on roads&bridges, and of course, road vehicles. Also it's very difficult to see snow accumulating here for days. Almost every time it snows at night and the next day the temperature goes up to 70.

except for the superbowl week this year.

maeng9981
03-19-11, 09:29 PM
I am at the step of opening the front cover. I need to remove the harmonic balancer, thinking to remove a tool from Autozone. Anyway, do I need to lock the flywheel? Certainly I do not have the locking tool and I do not think Autozone has it for me to borrow.

I heard about setting the timing, that you need to put the cylinder #1 to the very top (fully extended) and set the cams using the appropriate markers? Is that the correct way to do it? I don't want to take things off that are unnecessary for this project and screw up.

What I am thinking is that I need to lock the flywheel to remove the harmonic balancer and later upon reassembly I need to reset the timing using the method mentioned above. Is that correct?

Also, how do you remove exhaust manifold? FSM just tells me to remove the bolts but some of them are nearly inaccessible. Any tips?

stoveguyy
03-20-11, 01:35 PM
your tearing motor down? don't need to be concerned with timing. on reassembly the timing marks on the crank sprocket and intermediate sprocket are lined up. that puts #1 at TDC. than put on cam chains. is motor still attached to trans? than you need to lock flexplate to get balancer bolt off. locking tool is unique.

maeng9981
03-20-11, 03:27 PM
Yes, trans is still connected with the engine. I heard some people using bolts or HD screwdrivers through the starter hole and get away with it. Is it an OK method to lock the flexplate?

stoveguyy
03-20-11, 04:25 PM
i used a vicegrip on the flexplate.. works ok thru starter hole if you can get in there. somewhat tight fit. side load on vicegrip might ding the soft aluminum for starter hole but be careful. saw a nice flexplate lock that goes into starter opening. $30-40 or so online. i removed my chain tensioners, nylon chain guides and got enough slack in chains to remove heads without taking off cam sprockets. sort of a jiggsaw puzzle in reverse.

Speedygman
03-20-11, 04:42 PM
your tearing motor down? don't need to be concerned with timing. on reassembly the timing marks on the crank sprocket and intermediate sprocket are lined up. that puts #1 at TDC. than put on cam chains. is motor still attached to trans? than you need to lock flexplate to get balancer bolt off. locking tool is unique.
On my NorthStar with the index marks on the crank gear and the intermediate gear lined up and with the intake and exhaust gears cams index like the picture in the factory shop maintenance book with the cam pins 90 degrees to the head surface number one cylinder IS NOT AT TOP DEAD CENTER.

maeng9981
03-20-11, 11:24 PM
Well, I read horror stories of the balancer bolt not coming off. Worried, I brought friends to help if I can't get it off. Put one person hold a big screwdriver through the starter hole to lock the flexplate. Had a long deep breath and applied force to my wrench. It came right off?? It was easier than turning a wheel bolt.

Used a three-jaw puller for the balancer. Puller was too small so I put the balancer bolt halfway back in there and used that to put puller on it. Also came off very easily.

Robertsong
03-21-11, 04:25 PM
This thread has been very informative. I have a 94 Concours, with 104K+ miles. The info on how to get digital coolant temp was very interesting. I read the link providing info on how to set the programming to modify the display. But disappointed to learn it is for the newer models I am guessing for the updated computer. Does anyone know if it is possible to get coolant and tach for my model year? It amazes me that Cadillac wouldn't provide such essential information. I sure would appreciate the help. Don't know if this is paranoia or not, but after reading so much about H/G failures, I would like to have as much data as possible. As I have posted before, my problem is an oil leak. The other day in the midst of a rain storm, I had to stop, with the engine idling, and smoke was coming from under the hood! I can only guess it was oil vaporizing off the block. The engine ran (and runs) fine...now!
Appreciate any and all help on whether or not I can modify the output on my display
Thanks
Sorry I think I am on the wrong thread!

Robertsong
03-21-11, 04:42 PM
Being a novice at posting, I am writing in regards to being able to modify the output on digital display. I understand that a link provided by mhamilton on 12/29/10 stated that the mod he referred to works only on later models (ie 96~99 DeVilles/Concours). My question is whether or not any similar modifications are available on 94 concours. I assume it has to do with the onboard diagnostics computer (mine being the older version). But having Engine Temp seems critical and something hard to imagine Cadillac would not provide. Personally I would like to have a tachometer as well. I was really impressed to see what could be done, now the question is what can I do on my older "lady"! I appreciate any advice
thanks

maeng9981
03-21-11, 06:16 PM
Being a novice at posting, I am writing in regards to being able to modify the output on digital display. I understand that a link provided by mhamilton on 12/29/10 stated that the mod he referred to works only on later models (ie 96~99 DeVilles/Concours). My question is whether or not any similar modifications are available on 94 concours. I assume it has to do with the onboard diagnostics computer (mine being the older version). But having Engine Temp seems critical and something hard to imagine Cadillac would not provide. Personally I would like to have a tachometer as well. I was really impressed to see what could be done, now the question is what can I do on my older "lady"! I appreciate any advice
thanks

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/42347-shazaam-1995-deville-dic-instant-upgrade-2.html#post350047

The above digital cluster hack to display coolant temp & engine RPM works for 94-95 Devilles. I think some 96-99 comes with it.

maeng9981
03-21-11, 08:50 PM
Any tips on removing the both exhaust manifold? Wrench does not have enough clearance to loosen it. Some of them are hidden behind exhaust or HO2S. Would a S-shaped wrench help? What did you guys dd to remove the exhaust manifold?

maeng9981
03-23-11, 09:01 PM
Without various tools handy, the job is very hard and sometimes it just won't work.

http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/7412/ratchetwrench.jpg
These ratchet wrench would help when you take the coolant crossover off. Or something that cannot be reached with a socket ratchet due to space issues.

Usually need metric 10mm/13mm/15mm.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8771/sshapedwrench.jpg
These definitely help when you take the exhaust manifold out without removing the head with it.

Both tools, I didn't have it handy so I had to go buy it. Now the disassembly begins again.

maeng9981
03-28-11, 07:51 PM
Uploading some more pictures. Everything is off.

Head off
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8881/sam0141c.jpg

Cylinder #1 - trace of coolant?
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6862/sam0142f.jpg

Head bank #1
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/892/sam0143r.jpg

Back side, (is that white stuff dried dex?)
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2131/sam0144ax.jpg

Gasket
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9852/sam0145y.jpg

Head gasket residue. How do I remove this without making pieces fall?
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/5621/sam0147.jpg

Front side
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5592/sam0148k.jpg

Back side, pretty rusty looking
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/5171/sam0149r.jpg

Looks bad
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5619/sam0152r.jpg

All the bolts were very hard to remove. All came out with that stuff on the thread. It does not look like aluminum threads (like the one JoeTahoe had), it was rather dusty and left dusty residue on the cylinder walls upon removal.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/9495/sam0155x.jpg

Cylinders
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/77/sam0156e.jpg

Honing pattern. The thing on the head bolt left some dusty particles.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4116/sam0158b.jpg

maeng9981
03-28-11, 07:51 PM
Bank #2
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4021/sam0160x.jpg


http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/8659/sam0166.jpg

Cylinder #8 still had coolant in it. Now it's covered with buildup particles
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/2079/sam0167.jpg

Right (front) head. Exhaust valves are covered with something what I think is dried Dex.
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/1460/sam0168.jpg

Anyway, what is the easiest & safest way to clean the mess up? Like the top of the pistons, the particles that fell from head bolts, head gasket residue between coolant passages and etc.

JoeTahoe
03-28-11, 10:44 PM
Use a shop vac. and a razor blade at the same time. Then use duct tape to cover all openings before you drill an tap

maeng9981
03-30-11, 07:58 PM
Thank you. I cleaned the deck surface using shop vac but stuck in another problem. I cannot pull the alignment pin out. I do not have access to a welder so I used the vice grip method, only to see it destroy/bend the alignment pin. Now I got none off and the one out of four is half way destroyed. Any other suggestions?

JoeTahoe
03-31-11, 09:56 AM
I always used the welder, do you know any one with a 120v mig welder that could come over?? Mabee get one of those sockets that take rounded bolts out and a little heat with a propane torch, I have used them on striped caliper bolts with the internal allen head. Mabee a big easy out?? Someone else might chime in on this one.

jimsbox
03-31-11, 11:06 AM
I used a 1/8' or a 3/16 drill bit to drill through the alignment pin and the 1/2' all thread that I had slid in before hand, then I cut off the drill bit and made a pin out of the shank that fit into the hole. Use a large 1/2 inch drive deep socket slid down the all thread with the square drive hole at the top followed by a washer then a 1/2 inch nut to screw down on it. The drill shank has to be cut short enough to fit inside the socket but long enough to extend past both sides of the alignment pin. I did that on two of them but one of them actually pulled its way out of the alignment pin because I had drilled it too high. I had to resort to a mig welder to finish that pin and to do the other two in the end. If you are careful this drilled technique works but don't damage the deck while doing it. It is another alternative but welding the all thread or taking it to a machine shop is probably the best way to get them out.

JoeTahoe
03-31-11, 11:17 AM
thats a pretty sweet idea!!

maeng9981
04-10-11, 02:41 PM
I used the vise-grip method with a 1/2 bolt. It took like 5 minutes for a pin but it worked. Threw away the cheap chinese locking plier and got a irwin one.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7545/sam0038i.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1706/sam0040v.jpg
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/9922/sam0039.jpg

JoeTahoe
04-11-11, 03:15 PM
looks good I see you did have a time getting that dowel out

92Deville
04-11-11, 07:25 PM
How does the vice grip method with a 1/2" bolt work?

maeng9981
04-11-11, 09:03 PM
looks good I see you did have a time getting that dowel out

Yep, the cheap locking plier just weaken the wall and destroy it instead of holding it together.



How does the vice grip method with a 1/2" bolt work?

Put a 1/2" threaded bolt or a rod to prevent the pin from collapsing. Using a legit vise-grip (do not use a cheap Chinese copy, as the tool will most likely not hold and either slip around dowel pin or just strip and damage it), lock the pin against the threaded bolt. Make sure it is locked tight and start giving a little bit of torque to rotate the pin. Once the pin starts rotating, apply some upright force while you are rotating the pin. It takes time but it works. I still have two dowel pins on the other side, going to work on that bank tonight and I will snap some pics or video of the vise grip method.

EDIT #1: Before putting a bolt in it, spray the pin with PB blaster or WD-40. It helps when you turn it. It takes a fair amount of force to start with, and after that it is just a matter of rotating and pulling.

maeng9981
04-12-11, 07:16 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1-mF2bf85g
Drilling & Tapping video

Limited space... Need a garage with no unnecessary stuff in it!
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4834/sam0058zk.jpg

Tapping
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/5113/sam0059g.jpg

Drilled & Tapped hole
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5585/sam0060m.jpg

Hole prepared for drilling
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/6237/sam0061.jpg

Where the dowel pin was
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/5638/sam0062l.jpg

Dowel pin removal
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/805/sam0065o.jpg

Rotate and rotate. Comes out slowly.
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/1992/sam0066sn.jpg

It's out!
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/2048/sam0068k.jpg

vincentm
04-13-11, 11:04 AM
Thanks for the vid bro, that'll help me once I'm ready to start installing the SG studs. Can't believe you're doing this in that small of a space, my hats off to you!

maeng9981
04-14-11, 12:32 AM
Thank you! Yesterday and today I worked several hours to get drilling & tapping done. I installed the studs on one bank and now one stud is off alignment. I was told that it could happen and I should give it a soft but firm shot with rubber mallet to get the correct alignment. The problem is that I tried to do what I was told, even I hit it hard to make it move, but it is still off. It's not way off, it just does not accept the new gasket by 1/16 inch or so. Need help?

Speedygman
04-14-11, 01:12 AM
You might consider making hole in gasket just a little bigger, and open up that hole in the head just a tad. Heads will slide on tight over the studs but after you slide them on and off a couple of times they wil loosen up going on. Also in removeing the dowel pins Jake passed a easy way to pull the pins, use the tap that came with the kit and thread it in just enough to screw in one of the supplied bolts and use a spacer around the dowel and use the bolt to pull the dowel out, it worked great for me.

jimsbox
04-14-11, 04:42 AM
Just making the hole in the gasket bigger is the least of the problem, you will find the head won't go on either. If you haven't loctited the studs in then I can tell you how I did it to make sure I didn't crack the block with a side blow to the stud. Mark the stud with a marker and make a witness mark on the deck so when you put it back in you can align it correctly. Place the mark on the side that needs to be hit with the mallet. Put 2 of the nuts that came with the stud kit on top of the stud finger tight to protect the threads. I went to the hardware store and got 2 nuts that matched the tap that came with the stud kit and put them on the big end finger tight. Put the big end of the stud in a bench vice, take a large pipe and put it over the stud down to just above the threads in the vice and give it a good push or two. Take off the nuts and screw it back into the deck and align the marks after the threads are below the level of the deck. It is extremely important that the threaded portion of the stud be below the deck level or the head won't seat. Repeat until the unmodified gasket slides all the way down. DO NOT MODIFY THE GASKET! If the gasket won't go on, neither will the head. I know I am repeating myself but it is very important. Do not loctite until you can trial mount the head ok. I put witness marks and numbered each stud so I could put them back in if I had to adjust them.

Speedygman
04-14-11, 09:31 AM
Your way will certainly be the correct way to adjust the studs, however changing a hole on one stud hole by 1/32 of and inch is not a real big change in reliablity, as for sliding the heads on and off, the stud threads open up the head stud holes each time you slide the heads on and off just a little bit and in my case with the studs finger tight all went well then I went back and used the loctite, then slid the heads on and off a few times to get everthing working together. It worked for me.

maeng9981
04-18-11, 02:41 PM
Yep, went easier than I thought. Front one was all perfectly aligned and had no problem putting gasket/head on it. Rear bank, however, had one stud that was off, which was preventing the gasket from getting in. I pushed the stud just a little bit to give it a quick clearance and slided the gasket slowly until the gasket meets the unthreaded space of the studs. After that the gasket finally sat with the block. I aligned the head with upper head bolts and just slided in. Once the stud met the head bolt hole, it was a quick assembly.

Spent a hella time adjusting timing. I made a mistake (reversed the intake & exhaust cams on one bank) during installation and figured it out after everything was back in place. Had to take all the chains out again to make adjustments.

Now I reassembled almost everything back in place but cam covers. I still did not tight down the stud nuts to spec (I lost one nut during stud installation and waiting for a replacement from Jake) and still need to wait until new spark plug arrives.

Question about the crankshaft balancer: I tightened it with the balancer bolt until it turned the crankshaft. I locked the flexplate and gave it 37lb*ft with additional 120 degree turn. I think it should be enough, right? Or is there any special ways to do it? Worrying about having oil pressure problem after first start. That would suck.

maeng9981
04-19-11, 01:30 AM
Anyone have answer to the harmonic balancer question?

Also I am in need for radiator replacement. It has crack somewhere on the side tank. Stick with OEM or ok to use something else on Rockauto or something?

JoeTahoe
04-19-11, 05:47 AM
Jake says 225-250 and he is pretty clear on that. I got about 225 on the orig. bolt before it broke, could feel it strech. Got a new bolt from GM and all went good

ejguillot
04-19-11, 04:27 PM
Anyone have answer to the harmonic balancer question?

Also I am in need for radiator replacement. It has crack somewhere on the side tank. Stick with OEM or ok to use something else on Rockauto or something?

I went with 1-800-radiator, cost for my 2000 STS (no oil cooler) was $150, total price delivered to my door was $165. Lifetime warranty, just keep the receipt handy.

maeng9981
04-20-11, 04:25 PM
Thank you, so it won't cause any problems to use aftermarket radiators, right?

How does this one look like?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brand-New-High-Quality-2-Row-Radiator-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a2000Q7cModelQ3aSevi lleQQhashZitem1e62b69567QQitemZ130505151847QQptZMo torsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Getting closer to the end.....

jimsbox
04-21-11, 02:07 AM
Feels great to finish up doesn't it? Did you prime the oil pump if you pulled it out? I had a tough time getting my socket over some of the nuts, some of them were a pretty tight fit but with patience it all went together without any real problems. Did you replace your timing chain tensioners while you had the timing cover off, not critical but inexpensive and easy to do.

Submariner409
04-21-11, 11:35 AM
Harmonic balancer: The GM recommended 37 ft/lb + 120 degrees will put the bolt at just about 250 ft/lb.

The Olds 455 takes 300 ft/lb - the harmonic balancer, crank timing gear, and crank front bearing face must be clamped to about one piece of metal at that pressure.........

maeng9981
04-25-11, 02:21 AM
That harmonic balancer took some force....... anyway

the engine is up for reinstallation in the car. Not worrying about anything but the radiator that needs replacement. There is an obvious leak point (hairline crack) and I can't wait for the new radiator. The crack is not bad (just a seepage over time) so I might just jb weld the crack and use it until the new radiator arrives.

Is there anything I have to do before starting the engine? Priming the oil pump? How do?

ejguillot
04-25-11, 12:53 PM
When I had mine apart, the recommended priming procedure was to fill the oil pump with GM Engine Assembly Lube (nice thick oil). Did that, and after installing the engine (which I had used assembly lube VERY liberally on) pulled the spark plugs, unplugged the injectors, then cranked the engine for about 10 seconds. Reinstalled the plugs, connected the injectors, and the engine fired up on the first try. No problems with oil pressure either.

maeng9981
04-25-11, 07:46 PM
Quick!! Where does this connector go to?

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/2388/sam0121i.jpg
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/6940/sam0122e.jpg

maeng9981
04-26-11, 02:54 AM
That was for the A/C. Anyway during reinstallation, I found one more connector that I had no idea where it goes. I figured that if I leave it disconnected, I would get some sort of DTC when I test the car. Trick seemed to work, when I connected the battery, it gave me C0620 / C1241.

RSS C0620 was because I forgot to connect the CVRSS sensor arm thingy, and C1241 was the one that I left disconnected (magnasteer).

Tomorrow I will put oil/coolant in the car, connect everything that has to be connected, and finally starting the car up to test it. Hopefully everything goes very well, no more exhaust gases!

I was so happy when I re-connected the battery!! I missed the smell of my Seville :)

Q about A/C system though; I left the system open for a while and wonder if I need to recharge oil?

ejguillot
04-26-11, 03:12 PM
You opened up your A/C system? I was able to leave mine sealed (removed the radiator, unbolted the a/c compressor from the engine, and put it on the body rail where the radiator was).

maeng9981
04-26-11, 08:57 PM
I got mine evacuated and disconnected everything. When I figured out that I do not need to disconnect the A/C, it was too late. It isn't expensive to recharge it anyway.

maeng9981
04-26-11, 11:46 PM
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/2079/sam0095p.jpg
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5324/sam0096t.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/129/sam0097qz.jpg
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6615/sam0098d.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/4439/sam0099.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1218/sam0100pv.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/4633/sam0102.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1816/sam0103x.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3523/sam0106d.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/6239/sam0108d.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/2406/sam0111d.jpg
http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/4091/sam0112.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/9615/sam0113.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7712/sam0114g.jpg

maeng9981
04-26-11, 11:47 PM
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1815/sam0116ec.jpg
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/166/sam0117u.jpg
http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/772/sam0118k.jpg
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7487/sam0119f.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/3650/sam0120u.jpg
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7909/sam0123l.jpg

Well, primed the oil pump / lubrication system (followed FSM - 30 seconds with no ignition method. I pulled the fuel pump fuse out instead of pulling spark plugs out during priming. This is a video after that: (I might seem too excited - but pardon me, this was my first engine to work on and looks like it runs fine!)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a3SrjFQYU8

I couldn't locate the exhaust nuts after Y pipe / before catalytic converter so I had to run with them halfway connected; it will be connected securely when I find/buy the nuts.

jimsbox
04-27-11, 04:23 AM
Well done, that is not an easy job.

JoeTahoe
04-27-11, 08:46 AM
great job!!!

ejguillot
04-27-11, 01:21 PM
Nice work! Your cams do show more wear than mine did, Cadillac did make a good choice changing the 2000 and up heads to a roller follower valvetrain.

vincentm
04-27-11, 04:28 PM
Son of a b**** awesome job man, i envy you so much because i couldn't finish mine.

maeng9981
04-29-11, 02:00 AM
Thank you everyone, yep, this wasn't easy at all. It took longer than I expected, required lots of tools that I didn't have and a lot of scratches/blood/sweat. Well, now I have it and all it needs now is the brakes (bleeding) and the radiator replacement. The radiator is not here yet...

Oh it also needs new exhaust connecting nuts. The 4 that connects the y-pipe and the catalytic converter. I tried to clean up the garage and find the nuts with no luck. Anyone know of the size and the threading of it?? If those are the same size as my 99 Deville, I am thinking to take one off of my Deville and buy 4 same size nuts.

00 Deville
04-29-11, 07:55 AM
Sweet!!! Nice Job

Take a look at the link below... I believe the 4 nuts you need for the exhaust are item #19.

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2000&artnbr=6K03-028&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=66O&modelcode=K&makecode=K&modelseries=KD&uid=1&modelid=1147577597&capuid=1&majorgroup=03&grouptype=B

stoveguyy
04-29-11, 11:33 AM
did you clean off the piston tops? how about combustion chambers? sure looked dark to me. coulda fixed the N* cold motor knock.

maeng9981
04-29-11, 06:00 PM
Take a look at the link below... I believe the 4 nuts you need for the exhaust are item #19.

http://www.compnine.com/index.php?u=1&year=2000&artnbr=6K03-028&artsfx=NULL&supplgroup=NULL&catcode=66O&modelcode=K&makecode=K&modelseries=KD&uid=1&modelid=1147577597&capuid=1&majorgroup=03&grouptype=B

Thank you for the link! M8x1.25, I will buy the same size similar looking nuts and secure it down today.. radiator arriving timorrow.


did you clean off the piston tops? how about combustion chambers? sure looked dark to me. coulda fixed the N* cold motor knock.
Yes I cleaned the piston top and valve areas. I didn't make it shiny though; I just removed those excessive buildups. That said, I didn't have the cold carbon rap anyway.

ben.gators
04-30-11, 03:57 AM
Great job!

stoveguyy
04-30-11, 11:12 AM
some of the pics show a large reddish stripe for the rear valve cover gasket? did you use some sealer on the gaskets or get new gaskets? seems quite thick to me. but than my gasket leaks and i am putting off changing the gaskets. such an awkward job.

maeng9981
04-30-11, 01:01 PM
In the upper engine gasket kit from Rockauto, I got two new cam cover gaskets but unfortunately both were for the rear one. So I used the old one for the front and the new one for the back. The picture looks like the gasket is very thick because I didn't tight it down at that time. After I tight it down, it looked just like before I removed those. Did not use any kind of sealer, just the new gasket.

maeng9981
04-30-11, 10:03 PM
I test drove it a while ago, no more temperature issues! I tried to bleed the brakes but it still seems like it has air pocket or something. It's squishy and doesn't really have power to stop the car quick. So basically all I could do was to use parking brake with the actaual brakes and going around the corner. Exhaust is still not tightened, but the nuts will be purchased tonight. With the exhaust off, it just sounds like a supercharged muscle car engine or something. Just too loud.

Well, I am pretty satisfied with the result. I was worrying about having issue after the work, but no more.

mhamilton
04-30-11, 10:17 PM
Very nice! Congratulations :)

Interesting the minor differences between your 2000 N* and mine... I see your Seville got a water cooled alternator and the dipstick tube ends up in a different location. More things that don't interchange between the models...

maeng9981
05-01-11, 12:42 AM
Thank you! and yep- The water cooled alternator.. I was worrying about being a potential leak point but it looks like the clamps are doing their job very well.

Tomorrow I will bleed brakes again to get rid of that "squishy" feeling. I didn't do it right at the first place. Exhaust nuts and a new flange gasket (lost it) will be installed too.

Here's a video of me testing the car for the first time- my friend says no brake fluid but it has fluid--it is like half working.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt5UW4sZcPg

The temperature needle never moved even when floored. That is a good thing.

mhamilton
05-02-11, 09:36 PM
It's probably the rear brakes... the last person to have the system open on my car didn't get them done right. I had to do them twice to finally get all the air out. The FSM says specifically to press the pedal slowly, as rapid pumping can make the rears more difficult to bleed (something about the design of the master cylinder). You need to press down, let up and wait 10-15 seconds, then press down slowly again. That made a huge difference in my braking after I got the air out.

Also, put the bleeder hose in a bottle of fresh fluid so you can see the little air bubbles as they come out. That's a big help.

maeng9981
05-02-11, 10:58 PM
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8527/21992920374374225671443.jpg
First fillup after the work.

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/8638/20426520374434227171443.jpg
140.7 miles of successful test drive after the repair - and more to come! Temperature at the top dead center.

I bled the brakes and installed the nuts for the exhaust. No more loud exhaust. Recharged A/C with three new cans of R-134a. (Funny thing is that I am expecting a cold weather tonight - I worked on it anyway for upcoming Texas summer!)

During the test drive, "Check Coolant Level" message showed up and made me a little bit nervous; but it turned out to be the stuck sensor. Coolant was full with no level change, so I gently tapped the coolant level sensor area with my hand, hoping it would free up the sensor. Problem went away.

One thing I am having problem with is that I damaged the wiring of the HO2S sensor after the cat converter while removing the engine. The metal wire is exposed and intermittently touching each other; blowing the OXY SEN fuse. Getting P0140(HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank1Sensor2) P0141 (HO2S Performance Bank1Sensor2) P0155(HO2S Performance Bank2Sensor1) / SES due to the open fuse and shorted wires. Wires are not disconnected and I just need a new insulation. Thinking to use those heat-shrink tubes to reseal them and use electrical tape over it. That should take care of oxygen sensor shorting problem.

The whole project cost me around $1200.00 - most of it is the cost of new tools; I nearly had very few tools. I am happy with those numbers; also I am pretty sure I will work on another Northstar very soon, so it would be easier than this one.

vincentm
05-03-11, 09:51 AM
Wow, sweet man. Glad you got the job done, my Car gets picked up tomorrow by Carroll custom Cadillac, they'll then post the work being done on their site so i'll post a link in my thread. Again, congrats, not much 19yr old kids interested in these cars, glad you're one. these are awesome engines and cars, i'm obsessed with mine.

ThumperPup
05-03-11, 12:29 PM
wow sweet good job
nice looking seville
for a 11 year old seville with a rag top that top looks really decent also from what was visable of it and clean interior nice ride

maeng9981
05-07-11, 02:45 PM
Wow, sweet man. Glad you got the job done, my Car gets picked up tomorrow by Carroll custom Cadillac, they'll then post the work being done on their site so i'll post a link in my thread. Again, congrats, not much 19yr old kids interested in these cars, glad you're one. these are awesome engines and cars, i'm obsessed with mine.

I am sure that CCC knows what's up and they are willing to fix many Northstars on the road. Just by looking at their pictures on the website, it makes me think that they are some good honest Northstar techs.


wow sweet good job
nice looking seville
for a 11 year old seville with a rag top that top looks really decent also from what was visable of it and clean interior nice ride

Thank you, I'd say it was worth fixing it; Although I took a very long time and skipped some procedures that could've been done since I didn't want to screw it up, I think this job was well done. Now I have to learn how to do the complete rebuild for my Deville. That engine needs lots of things. Block reseal, cams for sure, and various other leak points.


I reached 500 miles of driving after the work. The highest temperature reading I've had was at 12:15. I understand since the ambient temp went up to around 90 and I was using my A/C all the time. When the A/C compressor cycles off for a moment and I am stuck in the traffic, that is the only moment when the temp needle goes up until it triggers the fan or reactivate the A/C compressor again. Perfectly normal.

I had a chance to get in a wide open private road about a mile long. I pushed her to the limit several times with outside temp @ 90 with A/C in full operation mode. Temp? Dead center. Good.

Also I fixed the damamged wiring around O2 sensor. I put several shrinking tubes in it and used electrical tape to seal it. Unless something cuts it open again it should be fine. Replaced the 10A OXY SEN fuse and all is well. No more SES light.