: Help with new engine please



KEGGER1454
12-19-10, 03:22 PM
Have a 1970 eldo 500 with a 1970 deville transmission and pan on it. due to what i'm putting it in i traded with a guy for the deville stuff. so...here the engine sits....what all can i take off of it and still run right? i'm trying to pretty it up a little. i already have header flanges and wanting a one wire alternator? i would really like a cam with a lot of thump to it...actually looking into a mts#15 cam or comp cam mutha thumper series...they sound awesome on bbc. also have cad company stage 2 rockers. thanks guys and love the forum so far!
nate

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drmenard
12-19-10, 08:14 PM
What are your plans for the motor? Are you going to rebuild it? A real 1970 eldo motor will have 950 heads and a 094 crank... these are the last 3 numbers of the castings ...

KEGGER1454
12-19-10, 10:15 PM
What are your plans for the motor? Are you going to rebuild it? A real 1970 eldo motor will have 950 heads and a 094 crank... these are the last 3 numbers of the castings ...

not going to rebuild but new parts i already have are...high flow water pump, oil pump, stage 2 rockers, header flanges for custom headers. things i want are a thumper cam, edelbrock intake and to clean it up. not looking for huge power gains seeing how its going into a 2400lb vehicle...just going for reliable fun. not sure about the castings but the title says 1970 eldo and i drove it home :)

drmenard
12-20-10, 06:02 PM
One thing that you must do is change the timing gears and chain... The stock gears have a plastic coating to make them run quiet... this plastic breaks off and makes the chain sloppy and loose... this happenes to all of them.... if let go sooner or later it will jump teeth and bend all the valves... cloyes makes a great replacment, don't buy the cheap one... about $100 is the good one... If you are not going to change the cam . when you put on the the gears and chain, there are 3 keyways on the crank gear, use the +4 keyway... this will advance your cam timing by 4 degrees..you will be happy you did...

KEGGER1454
12-20-10, 08:23 PM
One thing that you must do is change the timing gears and chain... The stock gears have a plastic coating to make them run quiet... this plastic breaks off and makes the chain sloppy and loose... this happenes to all of them.... if let go sooner or later it will jump teeth and bend all the valves... cloyes makes a great replacment, don't buy the cheap one... about $100 is the good one... If you are not going to change the cam . when you put on the the gears and chain, there are 3 keyways on the crank gear, use the +4 keyway... this will advance your cam timing by 4 degrees..you will be happy you did...


now thats the info i wanted...i'm def going to change the cam...do i still want to do the plus 4? i also just got an HEI distributor in the mail...wooohoo! thanks

drmenard
12-20-10, 09:46 PM
If you are going to change the cam make sure you get everything as a package from people the specialize in this motor... I have got a few from different vendors.. By far I was the happiest with MTS... another thing, get the best lifters they got... nothing worse than distroy a motor breaking in a cam..Use all the break in additives...When you buy the cam , ask if you should advance it..

Submariner409
12-21-10, 10:55 AM
If you don't want to degree the cam (degree wheel and pointer) there's nothing wrong with simply using the +4 crank sprocket setting. Advancing the cam does 2 things: it moves the power curve down about 500 or so rpm; the cam "comes in" sooner (good for street use), and it allows for the inevitable chain stretch/wear as time goes by. Conversely, retarding the cam moves the power curve higher in the rpm band (good for track use).

Does Cloyes make a timing set for your engine ???

Take an old engine builder's advice: Stay pretty conservative with your cam selection. Thumpy lumpy cams may sound cool, but they make the car a bitch to drive, require quite a bit of engine controls tuning, and practically force you to run the engine above 2000 rpm all day. Unless you're building a bracket racer, a good high-torque midrange cam is your ticket to heaven.

KEGGER1454
12-21-10, 08:31 PM
If you are going to change the cam make sure you get everything as a package from people the specialize in this motor... I have got a few from different vendors.. By far I was the happiest with MTS... another thing, get the best lifters they got... nothing worse than distroy a motor breaking in a cam..Use all the break in additives...When you buy the cam , ask if you should advance it..

i've talked with cad company and those guys are extrememly friendly and their website is soooo full of great facts...i definetly want to buy some stuff from them. thanks for the heads up!


If you don't want to degree the cam (degree wheel and pointer) there's nothing wrong with simply using the +4 crank sprocket setting. Advancing the cam does 2 things: it moves the power curve down about 500 or so rpm; the cam "comes in" sooner (good for street use), and it allows for the inevitable chain stretch/wear as time goes by. Conversely, retarding the cam moves the power curve higher in the rpm band (good for track use).

Does Cloyes make a timing set for your engine ???

Take an old engine builder's advice: Stay pretty conservative with your cam selection. Thumpy lumpy cams may sound cool, but they make the car a bitch to drive, require quite a bit of engine controls tuning, and practically force you to run the engine above 2000 rpm all day. Unless you're building a bracket racer, a good high-torque midrange cam is your ticket to heaven.

i can't believe i've never heard of this...too cool! i just bought a cloyes roller chain set last night...it has the 3 keyways and i'll make sure to advance it!

thats exactly why i thought the thumper cam would be a good suit for me...it idles horrible which i like but its not really a radical race cam so driveability would be fine. and like i said i''m not going for crazy amount of horsepower just a good sound and good performance to match. you guys are great!

JiipeeH
12-22-10, 05:46 PM
Remember when adding over 0.500" lift cam, valve retainers will hit the guides, so guides must be machined little bit down.
Other thing is, does the stage II rockers fit to the stock valve covers?

KEGGER1454
12-22-10, 08:15 PM
Remember when adding over 0.500" lift cam, valve retainers will hit the guides, so guides must be machined little bit down.
Other thing is, does the stage II rockers fit to the stock valve covers?

great i was wondering what needed machining...shouldn't be too big of a deal hopefully...any guidance?

they will fit with the 2X gaskets from cad co.