: couple questions on 2 loose ends...



Speed_Pigeon
12-06-10, 06:55 PM
hey guys, it's me again... got a couple quick questions on a few loose ends...

the biggest one is the oil leak i have developed... it wasn't there before the repair and i am assuming that setting the engine cradle on the pallet crushed or shifted the gaskets and seals in the oil and trans pans. it wasn't leaking a drop before the HG repair from either pan, but now it is. i had already gotten the trans pan seal and screens and that was leaking BAD! i dropped the pan and replaced the seal (it had some nasty cheap feeling gummy sealant and a paper gasket on it, so i cleaned it up and put the good rubber one in and replaced the screens) so the trans pan is perfect now. the problem is the oil leak... it only leaks when it's cold. after it heats up, the dripping stops and after it's cool and just sitting it doesn't really drip either. during that in-between time it leaks though.... it looks like it's coming from the oil distribution manifold and not the pan and it's dripping on the exhaust cross under pipe.

i need to know how i can drop that pan and manifold and replace the manifold WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR! i just don't have the energy or will power to drop that engine and separate the transaxle and flip the block over and all that crap!!! how can i do it and can it be done. if not, why not...


the second problem is rather benign. my trunk and fuel door release quit working the other day. both actuators work if they are powered directly, but when you push the button up on the dash, nothing happens... i replaced the switch box up front with the headlights and release buttons but they still don't work. the pull down motor and everything works just fine, the release actuators just don't get power when i hit the switch. i'm assuming it is a relay somewhere in the trunk coming off that fuse box that needs to be replaced, but i don't know where it is... me looking at a wiring diagram is like a monkey looking at the dead sea scrolls, their meaning is a complete mystery... where is the relay so i can find it and swap it out? or how can i further diagnose the problem to pinpoint the issue? i put my volt meter on the connectors, but with the damn circuit boards in everything, it's hard to figure out how they work... need a little help on this too.

i think that's pretty much it. everything i have done so far is holding perfect and the car runs and drives great! i just need to get these last 2 things figured out and i'll finally be done with this project!!!!

tateos
12-07-10, 12:13 PM
As I recall, the exhaust pipe gets in the way - I think someone once wrote they cut the pipe in 2 places, did what they needed to do, and then reinstalled and welded it...that's way beyond my abilities

Submariner409
12-07-10, 04:08 PM
Trunk and fuel door release - is the valet switch OFF or ON ?

Speed_Pigeon
12-07-10, 05:04 PM
Trunk and fuel door release - is the valet switch OFF or ON ?

seriously.... do you know how much time i spent ripping the trunk and dash apart looking for things, not to mention buying a new switch box.... i'm an idiot... the valet switch was on, i turned it off and low and behold everything works fine... what a squid move on my part.... thanks.

now, if there was a button for the oil manifold plate i'd be all set!!! lol.

so i'm looking at this thing and it seems if i could get that exhaust cross under pipe off, then i should be able to drop the pan and get the manifold and crank scrapper out the bottom... has anyone ever done this? then it would take a day or 2 instead of a week and my risk of breaking something would be much less! not to mention the labor savings...

Speed_Pigeon
12-07-10, 05:07 PM
and what sense does that make!?!?!?!? you had a valet your keys and the door key and trunk key are the same... does that valet key kill the keyless entry too? you'd have to give the guy your clicker and ignition key only.... who does that!?

Submariner409
12-07-10, 06:43 PM
and what sense does that make!?!?!?!? you had a valet your keys and the door key and trunk key are the same... does that valet key kill the keyless entry too? you'd have to give the guy your clicker and ignition key only.... who does that!?

The valet key opens the driver's door and starts the engine - it will NOT open the trunk or glove box, so with the valet switch ON and the glove box locked with your black key the buttons under the dash will not open the trunk or fuel door. He doesn't need the fob because the valet key will open the door and has a transponder to start the engine, so no security is violated.

You stop the car, set the switch and lock the glove box, give the parking attendant the valet key on the cutesy Cadillac dealer keyring and drop your black key and fob into your tuxedo jacket pocket.

Speed_Pigeon
12-08-10, 12:42 AM
ah ha! the black keys are the only ones i have... i dont have seperate valet keys or anything. i guess that makes sense...

now what about the oil distribution manifold?

Submariner409
12-08-10, 09:18 AM
now what about the oil distribution manifold?

You cannot remove the halfcase (that's probably the leak point) and oil distribution plate with the engine in the car.

Sitting the engine on the pallet has nothing to do with oil leaks - especially at the halfcase: that's the 4-bolt main stud girdle and windage tray as well as the lower structural component of the block assembly - you move that puppy out of alignment and an oil leak is the LEAST of your worries. Try total engine destruction from a bent crank or skewed main bearings.........

Speed_Pigeon
12-08-10, 08:53 PM
the half case seal is dry. it's the oil pan and manifold that is wet from the leak. i know i can't get the half case down, but can i take the distribution manifold and pan down? that's where the leak is.