: 70 Deville wont start, starter clicking!!!



scld1354
11-26-10, 12:52 AM
My friend has a 70 CDV that has been sitting in his front yard for about 5 years. He said that it died on the freeway and then was towed to his house. Now he wants to get it running again. We changed all of the fluids and drained the gas out and put fresh gas in. Im pretty sure the carb will need rebuilt, but for now we are just trying to get it started.

We tried to start it and the solenoid just clicked. The battery is bad and we were trying to start it with a battery charger/starter. No luck, it just clicked. We tried to jump it (with jumper cables and a running car). No luck, it just clicked. I do know the battery needs replaced. But it should have started, right?

I double checked the cables and performed a resistance test. They are all tight and the resistance is good. I had the starter checked at AZ and Oreilly, and it checked out OK.

Also, in the starter harness, there are 2 wires that are twisted together and capped off. They are way up in the harness and I can't tell what colors they are. Does anyone have any idea what these wires could be? The rest of the wires (3 of them) go to the solenoid.

It seems that this is a common problem, but nobody ever says what the problem was. Any ideas?

albymangled
11-26-10, 03:10 AM
If the battery leads and earth wire is good just take the battery (if it is known to be a good one) and substitute it for the dud one out of the Caddy...

if it starts buy a battery...

whaddya reckon the chances of the one in it being shot after 5 years laying around unused..?

pcm
11-26-10, 01:04 PM
the motor could be seized up try turning the crank by hand it will be hard to turn but it should turn

scld1354
11-26-10, 03:10 PM
You'll have to forgive me. Im new to Caddys. How would I crank it by hand? I tried feeling the crank pulley to see if there was a bolt I could turn with a ratchet, but I could not feel anything. It was difficult to get to with the 4 core radiator and fan in the way.

I know the battery is shot. It will be replaced in the next few days. But it should have started with a jump, right?

deVille33
11-27-10, 08:35 AM
After sitting for that length of time the ground connections may have oxidized. Take the starter down and clean it's contact area and all the ground connections. If any moisture got into the starter, the armature could have oxided. The clicking means the solenoid is pulling the plunger, but current may not be getting through the contact button. Pull the cover off the solenoid and check the contacts. Just several possibilities.

67deville
11-27-10, 12:28 PM
Did you try jumping at the starter instead of the battery? Worth a try.

scld1354
11-27-10, 03:23 PM
After sitting for that length of time the ground connections may have oxidized. Take the starter down and clean it's contact area and all the ground connections. If any moisture got into the starter, the armature could have oxided. The clicking means the solenoid is pulling the plunger, but current may not be getting through the contact button. Pull the cover off the solenoid and check the contacts. Just several possibilities.

I have checked and double checked all external cables. They have been sitting for a while, but all still run current. If there was a problem inside of the solenoid/starter, I would assume that it would not have tested good at AZ or Oreilly.


Did you try jumping at the starter instead of the battery? Worth a try.

I though about that. I will do that next time I am over there.

Could someome tell me how to manually turn the motor? I assume its a bolt on the front of the crankshaft?

deVille33
11-27-10, 03:40 PM
Drop the inspection cover of the trans at the front of the trans under the torque converter. Now you can access the flex plate ring gear. Use a screwdriver or a brake adjuster tool and pry against the teeth and the bell house.

scld1354
11-27-10, 07:21 PM
That sounds easy enough. I'll give that a try in the next few days and see if the motor will turn.

albymangled
11-28-10, 06:18 AM
Drop the inspection cover of the trans at the front of the trans under the torque converter. Now you can access the flex plate ring gear. Use a screwdriver or a brake adjuster tool and pry against the teeth and the bell house.

gee it's not too hard to swap a battery out is it?

if another battery cranks her over.....

scld1354
11-30-10, 03:50 AM
gee it's not too hard to swap a battery out is it?

if another battery cranks her over.....

You are absolutely correct. Im going to replace the battery, regardless, but would'nt trying to jump start it be the exact same as replacing the battery? I'll put some time in tomorrow and hopefully get it to crank over.

Does anyone know what tool I can use to prime the oiling system? I have not seen any cadillac-specific oil pump primers anywhere...

albymangled
11-30-10, 06:32 AM
Sometimes its just better to try another battery instead of a jump....

sometimes the initial battery is so flat its like it sucks some of the new battery's power in to top it up before sending power onward to crank 'er over...

priming the oil system..?

check the dip stick and make sure it has some in it....

then just pull the HT lead and crank it a little by little till you figure the oil's gone round...

then chuck the lead back on throw a bit of juice down the carb throat and give it a decent spin...

just my $0.02 AUD....

scld1354
11-30-10, 01:56 PM
Thanks for the help. I'll try a new battery today.

Tired a new battery and it fired right up! I had to mess around for a while to get the ignition (purple?) wire to tightly attach to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. I think it was the new battery that did the trick.

I disconnected the coil lead and "primed" the oil system, poured gas down the carb, and it fired right up.

Thanks again for all the help.