: 97 Eldorado ETC HG repair project



Pages : [1] 2

vincentm
11-21-10, 12:35 PM
Well, it's started, my friend Dave and i removed the hood, disabled the SIR, drained the coolant, removed the cooling fans, radiator, drained the AC, removed the AC intake. and have a few bloody knuckles.

The radiator was a bit of a problem, it's two stacked together, held together by 4 screws and an AC line (i think) and was a bit tough to maneuver out, but we got it out undamaged.

98eldo32v
11-21-10, 01:14 PM
Are you taking the motor out through the top or the bottom?

vincentm
11-21-10, 01:23 PM
Are you taking the motor out through the top or the bottom?

The top

jimsbox
11-21-10, 01:43 PM
Good luck, I have an 00 Deville which I took out the bottom. It was very tedious but not overly challenging technically. It will be interesting to see how it goes for you. Others have done it but I don't remember seeing any detailed procedures/pics etc. It looks like you have a nice clean work area, I am sure you will do fine. Keep us posted and again, good luck.

Jim

vincentm
11-21-10, 01:48 PM
My All data DIY subscription doesnt say where to disconnect the cruise control servo connections, help needed please, preferrably with pictures.

Ranger
11-21-10, 02:56 PM
The radiator was a bit of a problem, it's two stacked together, held together by 4 screws and an AC line (i think)
The rear one is the radiator. The forward one is the A/C condenser.

97EldoCoupe
11-21-10, 08:42 PM
There is a 7mm head screw on the side of the rad holding the A/C condenser lines to the radiator. I use a specially bent wrench for this one.

vincentm
11-21-10, 09:15 PM
How many bolts are needed to remove the transaxle from the engine? We removed 6 from the top portion Currently trying to ensure what other are needed.

Help needed again, alldatadiy only gives a parts explosion of the transaxle, the chilton manual only shows 4 bolts, so we're stuck.

jimsbox
11-21-10, 10:08 PM
Try gmpartsgiant.com for useful diagrams, I am using them to assist in reassembly. On my 00 DHS the trans is only directly attached by 4 bolts. There are also 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the engine flexplate. There are probably 4 or 5 brackets between the engine and the transmission as well. The diagrams under engine and transmission mounting will show you where these are and what they look like.

Jim

vincentm
11-22-10, 12:21 AM
Try gmpartsgiant.com for useful diagrams, I am using them to assist in reassembly. On my 00 DHS the trans is only directly attached by 4 bolts. There are also 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the engine flexplate. There are probably 4 or 5 brackets between the engine and the transmission as well. The diagrams under engine and transmission mounting will show you where these are and what they look like.

Jim


That actually helped alot, thank you sir. :)

http://64.19.142.12/www.gmpartsgiant.com/diagrams/large/65o/engine-transaxle-mounting-v8-6m00032101.png

jimsbox
11-22-10, 12:40 AM
Glad to help, keep us posted on your progress.

Jim

Speed_Pigeon
11-22-10, 01:46 AM
Oh wow... out the top!? I thought I was going to do that and seeing it all out the bottom, I have no clue if I could have done it! There are so many little "1 bar/bracket" connections and NO room to work while its in the car... rumor has it that a few guys here do the repair out the top, but I couldn't help you with this one... I was looking at it, and I wasn't even sure where I would lift it from!!!!! The aluminum is SO soft, and there is only 1 good heavy bracket up top that I found that I would feel comfortable using. A lot of what looks sturdy isn't! My advice, wobble extensions!!!!! Lots and lots of wobble extensions!!!! You'd be surprised what a corner you can creep around if you put 2 or 3 together...

Like I said, I've only done one of these, but out the top looks nearly impossible! Do some searching here and see if you can find one of the guys that takes it out through the top. If there is ANY way you can do it through the bottom, make it happen!

Speed_Pigeon
11-22-10, 01:51 AM
And BTW, if you do take it out the top, get that coil pack off the right bank back there, it comes right off and will free up some clearance. I'm not sure if you can, but the Y pipe will have to go too. It sticks back pretty far.

Speed_Pigeon
11-22-10, 01:55 AM
2 you probably can't see, right bank, on the head. 1 is on a black round bar and the bolt faces up. It attaches the trans axle to the engine and is right behind cylinders 1 and 3. the other is right at the front, on the right bank facing down. Look that the pics of the right bank of my engine and you can probably pick them out.

heres a pic i pulled up of the two i was talking about

jimsbox
11-22-10, 03:07 AM
Vincentm,

I read your question on SpeedPigeon's thread about pulling the stub axles. If you REALLY need to pull them out of the transmission, be careful of the transmission seals and use 2 pry bars on opposite sides to pop them out. There is a large circlip that holds them in and once you pop them out of that they will pull right out. If you only try to use one pry bar you will probably cock it and fail at getting them to come out. If you are only doing the studs you should not have to separate the axles from the trans. When you go to reinstall them lightly grease the splines on the axle and it should pop back in without too much trouble.

An alternative method of pulling stub axles I understand (but have not personnally done) is to wrap a good sized chain around the axle between the transmission and the big swelling of the inner cv joint, being careful of the boot on the axle and the seal on the trans, then with a few inches of slack give the chain a good jerk and supposedly it will pop the axle out as well.

jimsbox
11-22-10, 03:12 AM
Vincentm,
I don't know if you will need this or not but I posted a procedure for removing the timing chains and reinstalling them at the end so the timing relationships remain correct.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/213921-helpful-hunts-dealing-timing-when-you.html

vincentm
11-23-10, 10:51 AM
Thanks for the responses guys, project is on hold for now, it's snowing like hell here and is going to get down to -3 tonight, the shop in which i'm working in doesn't have any insulation, and even with a good heater im just not wanting to do so in this weather, i'll keep you updated though, thanks again, this community is awesome.

jimsbox
11-23-10, 07:26 PM
Vincentm,

I think I misread your post on SpeedPigeon's thread, I was thinking you wanted to know how to pull the stub axles so you can remove my post 3 posts back. Sorry,

Jim

vincentm
11-29-10, 04:26 PM
This project has fallen through, the person i had helping me is no longer doing so and i cannot continue alone, so rather than risk doing it myself and screwing up my baby. I've since reinstalled everything i've taken apart thus far, with the exception of the hood, ac lines for the radiator and cooling fans ( my hands hurt ), and will be taking this to Carroll's Custom Cadillac in Vancouver WA to install Jake's studkit i've purchased along with the new seals, gaskets and oil pan gasket i've also purchased. I'll arrange for them to pickup the vehicle and won't be charged for parts. :)

I'd rather have it done right and be able to drive my baby worry free (thanks again Jake, you're awesome :worship: ), and WOT. :dance:

vincentm
12-05-10, 11:19 AM
finished puting it back together last night, and used a whole bottle of 50/50 Dex-Cool to fill it back up, started it up and alot of smoke came out the tail pipes, so i had a bit more 50/50 in another bottle used that. Check Coolant level warning was still displayed, drove it to Autozone today to get some more, and the engine was smoking near the rear, looked underneath and it was leaking a bit. So i bought another bottle and used it all, temp gauge now stays at 198* and warning about coolant level went away, and no leaks but engine is still smoking a bit... weird, but i think my baby is done for now until i can get CCC to fix it...

jimsbox
12-05-10, 02:11 PM
Ccc?

vincentm
12-05-10, 02:13 PM
Ccc?

C.C.C (http://carrollcustomcadillac.com/default.aspx)

maeng9981
12-05-10, 05:37 PM
finished puting it back together last night, and used a whole bottle of 50/50 Dex-Cool to fill it back up, started it up and alot of smoke came out the tail pipes, so i had a bit more 50/50 in another bottle used that. Check Coolant level warning was still displayed, drove it to Autozone today to get some more, and the engine was smoking near the rear, looked underneath and it was leaking a bit. So i bought another bottle and used it all, temp gauge now stays at 198* and warning about coolant level went away, and no leaks but engine is still smoking a bit... weird, but i think my baby is done for now until i can get CCC to fix it...

Completely empty cooling system will take 2.5ish bottle of 50/50 Dex. Forgot the real measurement. The color of smoke?

vincentm
12-05-10, 05:53 PM
Completely empty cooling system will take 2.5ish bottle of 50/50 Dex. Forgot the real measurement. The color of smoke?

White

maeng9981
12-06-10, 02:45 AM
White

Might be fuel or coolant. Smell will tell.

Submariner409
12-06-10, 09:40 AM
Generally, in a Northstar system, black smoke is a rich fuel mixture, blue smoke is oil consumption, and white "smoke" is steam from either cold start condensation or (steam and smoke) coolant leaking into one or more cylinders.

Coolant in a cylinder will cause a rough, shaky cold start as the wet cylinder(s) clean out.

vincentm
12-06-10, 09:53 AM
Generally, in a Northstar system, black smoke is a rich fuel mixture, blue smoke is oil consumption, and white "smoke" is steam from either cold start condensation or (steam and smoke) coolant leaking into one or more cylinders.

Coolant in a cylinder will cause a rough, shaky cold start as the wet cylinder(s) clean out.


It starts just fine, like right up with a roar lol. the smoke is coming from the driver's side of the motor near the rear. Never did so before, im thinking i shouldve never attempted to tackle this job before i was able to drive it, now i cant

Submariner409
12-08-10, 09:34 AM
Are you sure that this "smoke" is not actually steam - as in: coolant leak ??

Driver's side, rear - I'll bet that either the metal heater coolant line(s) are rusting through or there's a weep at the heater supply quick-connect fitting at the rear of the water crossover.

vincentm
12-08-10, 01:08 PM
Are you sure that this "smoke" is not actually steam - as in: coolant leak ??

Driver's side, rear - I'll bet that either the metal heater coolant line(s) are rusting through or there's a weep at the heater supply quick-connect fitting at the rear of the water crossover.


Was a hose near what i assume is the water crossover, it just needed tightening, issue fixed :)

On a side note got a quote from Carrolls Custom Cadillac last night on the total cost of the job:

"I was reading our past conversation, you said you had the oil pan gasket?
I mention this because when we do the head gasket job the oil pan never comes off, when repairing the
block for studs we seal the top of the block so nothing falls in the engine.
The only time we remove the oil pan is when we are either resealing the split block, oil manifold plate,
and the oil pan seal, or to rebuild the bottom end like new crank, bearings, and rings.
Was it your intention to stop leaks?
The Northstar will always begin to leak when the block seals colapse usually around the time the gaskets blow.
What we do to stop this is dismantle the block pulling the main bearing cap which is the lower half
discard the colapsed seals using an expensive block sealant in its place cleaning all sealant that squeezes back into
the block for a perfect permanent seal, we also clean the oil manifold plate and very carefully use a micro amount of block
sealant only to the outer edge assuring no sealant is squeezed back into the caroulsel which is vital to bearing failure,
then we put all 20 new main cap bolts including any serts needed for thread failure (Kinda of what happens to head block threads)
Along with this reseal you get front and rear main seals too!
Then after a tank dip the oil pan seal is installed with the pan, this is a 800.00 reseal if the engine is out of the car.
If you want to have this done I would be willing to make a deal just between us, but first you may call around to find out what this cost
and then decide if you would like to have it done while I have the engine out?
OK, I know things are tough for you right now with the divorce and all so I would be willing to do the complete reseal for 500.00
Parts and labor, this will also allow us to inspect the bearings.

As for the cost of the head job 1,886.79 this includes tax if you wanted to include the block resealing just 500.00 and
we wont tax the 500.00 so if added your looking at a total of 2386.79 this is a amazing deal, no one and I can say in confidence
no one can beat my price, and certainly can't beat my warranty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

However, if you only want the head gasket job its only $1886.79 with tax + the gasket set and stud kit
remember I am giving you credit for the gasket set and for the drill kit, not the price of the studs because the price of 2150.00
is increased to 2475.00 when I install studs verses serts.
So the studs you bought and are already paid for but the balance of the kit I am giving credit for.

So there you have it.
let me know when so I can schedule you in?
Tim Carroll [tim@carrollcustomcadillac.com]"


This is a great deal imo.

vincentm
12-08-10, 01:11 PM
Are you sure that this "smoke" is not actually steam - as in: coolant leak ??

Driver's side, rear - I'll bet that either the metal heater coolant line(s) are rusting through or there's a weep at the heater supply quick-connect fitting at the rear of the water crossover.


Was a hose near what i assume is the water crossover, it just needed tightening, issue fixed :)

On a side note got a quote from Carrolls Custom Cadillac last night on the total cost of the job:

"I was reading our past conversation, you said you had the oil pan gasket?
I mention this because when we do the head gasket job the oil pan never comes off, when repairing the
block for studs we seal the top of the block so nothing falls in the engine.
The only time we remove the oil pan is when we are either resealing the split block, oil manifold plate,
and the oil pan seal, or to rebuild the bottom end like new crank, bearings, and rings.
Was it your intention to stop leaks?
The Northstar will always begin to leak when the block seals colapse usually around the time the gaskets blow.
What we do to stop this is dismantle the block pulling the main bearing cap which is the lower half
discard the colapsed seals using an expensive block sealant in its place cleaning all sealant that squeezes back into
the block for a perfect permanent seal, we also clean the oil manifold plate and very carefully use a micro amount of block
sealant only to the outer edge assuring no sealant is squeezed back into the caroulsel which is vital to bearing failure,
then we put all 20 new main cap bolts including any serts needed for thread failure (Kinda of what happens to head block threads)
Along with this reseal you get front and rear main seals too!
Then after a tank dip the oil pan seal is installed with the pan, this is a 800.00 reseal if the engine is out of the car.
If you want to have this done I would be willing to make a deal just between us, but first you may call around to find out what this cost
and then decide if you would like to have it done while I have the engine out?
OK, I know things are tough for you right now with the divorce and all so I would be willing to do the complete reseal for 500.00
Parts and labor, this will also allow us to inspect the bearings.

As for the cost of the head job 1,886.79 this includes tax if you wanted to include the block resealing just 500.00 and
we wont tax the 500.00 so if added your looking at a total of 2386.79 this is a amazing deal, no one and I can say in confidence
no one can beat my price, and certainly can't beat my warranty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

However, if you only want the head gasket job its only $1886.79 with tax + the gasket set and stud kit
remember I am giving you credit for the gasket set and for the drill kit, not the price of the studs because the price of 2150.00
is increased to 2475.00 when I install studs verses serts.
So the studs you bought and are already paid for but the balance of the kit I am giving credit for.

So there you have it.
let me know when so I can schedule you in?
Tim Carroll [tim@carrollcustomcadillac.com]"


This is a great deal imo.

97EldoCoupe
12-08-10, 05:38 PM
VINCENT - HAVE THEM INSTALL A NEW MANIFOLD PLATE!!!! I repeat - MAKE SURE THEY INSTALL A NEW MANIFOLD PLATE !

The cost of the manifold plate ($80 + shipping from me, or around $150-$175 from the dealer) is not worth potential internal oil leaks, which can result in oil pressure loss at low RPMs. What's worse, those plates contain a small o-ring like seal around the pick-up tube. If there's even a slight crack in that old rubber seal, the oil pump will suck air -

I have around 500 left in stock. +/- because I've been going through quite a few of these.

97EldoCoupe
12-08-10, 05:42 PM
And I don't care where you get it from, I'm not concerned about making the money - I'm concerned about your Northstar being fixed correctly. Please take my advice on this.

vincentm
12-08-10, 05:58 PM
And I don't care where you get it from, I'm not concerned about making the money - I'm concerned about your Northstar being fixed correctly. Please take my advice on this.

I'll purchase the manifold plate from you this 17th. Thanks Jake

vincentm
04-06-11, 04:07 PM
Ok, so i'm going to retackle this project again myself, this time i'm armed a bit better. I'll start this weekend hopefully. Still going to pull the engine out the top.

98eldo32v
04-09-11, 06:54 AM
Nothing like doing it yourself.

I wish you the best of luck with it and hopefully all goes well.

I'll be doing my through the top also. Just take your time and if you feel a bit tired or frustration coming on, take a break from the repair. You'll be surprised what a little rest and a clear head will do for you when you go back to tackle the problem.....

vincentm
04-09-11, 12:47 PM
Yellow two connector for SIR is a bitch to disconnect

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

vincentm
04-09-11, 01:16 PM
Got the SIR completely disabled and disconnected, but getting to the radiator plug is the real PITA, nvm. Dropping the splash shield and acessing it through the top is easier

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

vincentm
04-09-11, 10:50 PM
Got stuck on disconnecting/removing the radiator and ac condensor, the lower connection below the lower radiator hose (transaxle cooling line?) Is rusted and stripped, stopped for now, tomorrow ill hit it with some WD-40 and let it sit for a bit.

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Submariner409
04-10-11, 10:04 AM
You might try using PB Blaster for rust/thread penetrant - WD-40 tends to dry out and leave a sticky film.

Sent from my Ancient Laptop using Huntandpeck

92Deville
04-10-11, 02:14 PM
Isn't disconnecting the battery enough to disable the SIR?

vincentm
04-10-11, 04:36 PM
Trouble getting the coolant reservoir removed due to the hose clamps facing down, son of a.....

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vincentm
04-10-11, 06:07 PM
Throttle body coolant hose from water crossover? That black one?

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vincentm
04-11-11, 09:56 AM
Radiator, AC Condenser, engine strut ( dog bones), park/neutral switch, spark plugs, spark plugs cables, coolant reservoir, upper radiator panel, cooling fans, removed along with a crap ton of sensors. Tonight the hood comes off with a few more things. By Friday i should be pulling the engine out.


NorthStar Engine removal: foul language required :D

vincentm
04-11-11, 07:27 PM
Just finished pulling the hood off, bad news. On the the passenger side the fender side bolts snapped off. Theyll need to be drilled out and replaced with new ones, oh well could be worse right? Now to get the coolant hose from the throttle body off and the EGR pipe off as well.

vincentm
04-11-11, 08:24 PM
K, need some help, i need to disconnect the ground wire from the right cylinder head, and fuel rail bracket from the EGR. Where are these. There was a ground wire connected underneat the ignition coil which i removed that was going to the right cylinder head. Was that it? Wheres the EGR valve?

vincentm
04-11-11, 08:30 PM
http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e28-9d03-ca47.jpg

http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e68-9d1c-1ca6.jpg

vincentm
04-11-11, 08:52 PM
Anyone?

ternstes
04-12-11, 07:09 AM
Hey Vincent,

EGR Valve is on top of the coolant crossover on the right (rear) side of the engine. I believe there is an engine ground on the the firewall side of the right (rear) head. I believe it is connected to either the rear trans/engine mount, or the rear block to trans bracket. In either case, be sure to unbolt both the rear mount from the cylinder head AND unbolt the rear bracket before you attempt to lift the engine out.

You can see the bracket in this photo as I left it attached to the block.

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/timernstes/IMG_0510_circled.jpg

vincentm
04-12-11, 09:34 AM
Thanks Ternstes, ill tackle that when i get home from work today. Im ready to remove the intake manifold, and am reading in the fsm and all data that fuel pressure needs to be relieved before doing so, i dont have the tool to do so, is it something i can borrow from a parts store or have to purchase?

Submariner409
04-12-11, 09:38 AM
Remove the black plastic cap on the fuel rail - that covers a Schrader valve - the process is exactly like letting air out of a tire. About 1 -2 ounces of gas will squirt out.

You may need a fuel line quick-disconnect removal kit. The metal rail attaches to the fuel lines with an O-ring and pair of spring fingers up in the rail and return end. The kit consists of several different sized plastic "top hats" which slide over the line and up into the rail to trip the retainer fingers. About $6 at a NAPA store.

vincentm
04-12-11, 10:05 AM
Remove the black plastic cap on the fuel rail - that covers a Schrader valve - the process is exactly like letting air out of a tire. About 1 -2 ounces of gas will squirt out.

If i'm right it's the cap looky thingy (forgive my grammar) near the throttle body, which has a U shaped clip on that slides out, i took it off real quick and there is fuel that began to dissipate once exposed.


You may need a fuel line quick-disconnect removal kit. The metal rail attaches to the fuel lines with an O-ring and pair of spring fingers up in the rail and return end. The kit consists of several different sized plastic "top hats" which slide over the line and up into the rail to trip the retainer fingers. About $6 at a NAPA store.

The fuel line disconnect tools i have, it's just a holy bitch to use, those lines do NOT want to be disconnected. i'll hit up NAPA for some today, the one's i have are from HF, this type

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=uOK&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=fuel+line+disconnect+tool&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=4721998333807812251&sa=X&ei=ylukTdyBOqXYiAL2htzjCA&sqi=2&ved=0CCYQ8gIwAQ#

ternstes
04-12-11, 01:09 PM
Those disconnects are what I have. Spray compressed air into the fittings before disconnecting as there may be some crud preventing the clips from moving far enough. If the car has been sitting for a good amount of time, it is likely that there is hardly any pressure left in the lines.

Hopefully you can see that rear bracket from the passenger wheel well, because with the rear head still on, it will be near impossible over the top. You may want the rear exhaust manifold out of the way too.

vincentm
04-12-11, 05:07 PM
Thanks again Ternstes :D On today's list after i get off work is to remove the following still:

fuel lines
fuel rail bracket
injector harness (?)
intake manifold
starter
right cylinder head temperature switch (?)

And hopefully i can get it raised tonight to start on the transaxle to oil pan brace. Also would it be easier to take the wheels off to access the transaxle brace, left cradle mount etc?

vincentm
04-12-11, 07:19 PM
These fuel lines do NOT want to come off, this is damn near impossible!

vincentm
04-12-11, 08:05 PM
Theyre off! \o/!!! Son of a.. man that was tough.
http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e4c-e8b9-71f1.jpg

vincentm
04-12-11, 08:36 PM
Starter looks good
http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e0c-efef-dea9.jpg

Engine cavity, little dirty

http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e0c-f016-2539.jpg
http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e4c-f025-0b38.jpg

ternstes
04-13-11, 06:39 AM
Thanks again Ternstes :D On today's list after i get off work is to remove the following still:

fuel lines
fuel rail bracket
injector harness (?)
intake manifold
starter
right cylinder head temperature switch (?)

And hopefully i can get it raised tonight to start on the transaxle to oil pan brace. Also would it be easier to take the wheels off to access the transaxle brace, left cradle mount etc?

I think you will need to take the passenger wheel off. What are you doing about the AC? You could leave the compressor connected (*and just unbolt it from the engine*) since the engine is going out the top. The coolant temp sensor is on the the right (rear) head driver's side. There is a lot of things in the way at this point. If you can maneuver something down there (if you can even see it!) to disconnect the electrical connection, that should be enough.

When you remove the trans to oil pan brace, there is an inspection cover plate held on by one more 10 mm bolt (I think its only one). This will give you access to the torque converter bolts.

Does the crossover have to come off before you can get to the 4 trans to engine mounting bolts? I can't remember...

vincentm
04-13-11, 10:20 AM
Thanks again, tonight a friend will be helping me get it jacked to start on the trans /oil pan brace, cradle mount, etc. I so can't wait. Taking this out the top isnt that tough as i thought, and this has been a fun adventure and a really great learning experience thus far.

vincentm
04-13-11, 05:41 PM
What size bolts will i need for mounting it to the engine stand? Same as the Torque converter ones? If so, what size are they?

jimsbox
04-13-11, 05:54 PM
I believe they are M12x2.0 but they are the same as the tranny to engine bolts. I am impressed, you are making good headway. Let us know how you fare on separating the trans from the engine, keep up the commentary.

vincentm
04-13-11, 05:58 PM
Thanks Jim. I'll pick some up after work today. I'll be disconnecting it from the tranny tonight

johnny kannapo
04-13-11, 06:12 PM
It depends on the stand, they need to be long enough to screw in at the very least as many threads as the diameter of the bolt equals + the shank & washer if needed.

vincentm
04-13-11, 07:51 PM
Here's the stand, lent to me by a friend.
http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e13-3706-e161.jpg

vincentm
04-13-11, 11:40 PM
Flywheel bolts gone

jimsbox
04-13-11, 11:54 PM
Vincent,

I had to grind the corners on the stand arms to fit without pulling the crossover, just a heads up. No big deal with an angle grinder.

vincentm
04-14-11, 12:37 AM
Got the flywheel bolts, transaxle to engine brace, right front transaxle to engine brace, front brace bolts, ac compressor removed. My bell housing bolts are going to be a bitch. Look why..http://tapa.tk/mu/d0360e13-799c-0903.jpg


Completely covered by wiring from the PCM have no clue which way these disconnect or move, either towards the firewall, or from the firewall to the PCM so i can access the bell housing bolts.

jimsbox
04-14-11, 03:35 AM
Fortunately as I remember there are only 4 of them. There are 5 brackets between the engine and trans as I recall, 2 or 3 on the passenger side axle housing, a big plate with 4 bolts underneath and a tube with flattened ends. Be careful when removing the bolts in tight quarters, there was a guy that put a socket on one and backed it up against the frame then could not reverse the ratchet, I think he had to cut it off but mangled the trans housing threads getting it out. May want to have a set of metric flex head gear wrenches, at least 13 and 15mm size.

ternstes
04-14-11, 06:21 AM
Disconnect all the connections on the front (radiator) side of the engine. This includes Oil level, oil pressure, crankshaft position, alternator, AC compressor, radiator fans, ABS module, etc. There is also a ground wire on the trans down in front that can be removed. This should give plenty of play in that big bundle to move it.

jimsbox
04-14-11, 06:30 AM
Vincent,
I made the following post on another thread but it is important to consider when you start to install the studs. You may find that some of the holes are not as perfectly positioned or as perpendicular to the deck as you hoped. It doesn't take much to keep the gasket and head from sliding down the studs. When you finish drilling and tapping temporarily install the studs then try to slide the old gasket down them. If some of the studs are misaligned this is the procedure I used to make everything align before loctiting the studs in.

Just making the hole in the gasket bigger is the least of the problem, you will find the head won't go on either. If you haven't loctited the studs in then I can tell you how I did it to make sure I didn't crack the block with a side blow to the stud. Mark the stud with a marker and make a witness mark on the deck so when you put it back in you can align it correctly. Place the mark on the side that needs to be hit with the mallet. Put 2 of the nuts that came with the stud kit on top of the stud finger tight to protect the threads. I went to the hardware store and got 2 nuts that matched the tap that came with the stud kit and put them on the big end finger tight. Put the big end of the stud in a bench vice, take a large pipe and put it over the stud down to just above the threads in the vice and give it a good push or two. Take off the nuts and screw it back into the deck and align the marks after the threads are below the level of the deck. It is extremely important that the threaded portion of the stud be below the deck level or the head won't seat. Repeat until the unmodified gasket slides all the way down. DO NOT MODIFY THE GASKET! If the gasket won't go on, neither will the head. I know I am repeating myself but it is very important. Do not loctite until you can trial mount the head ok. I put witness marks and numbered each stud so I could put them back in if I had to adjust them.

vincentm
04-14-11, 09:28 AM
Thanks guys i really appreciate your help, im so close to yanking it out i can taste it. Not gonna work on it tonight. My back needs a rest and some 800mg Ibuprofen.

tateos
04-14-11, 01:03 PM
Disconnect all the connections on the front (radiator) side of the engine. This includes Oil level, oil pressure, crankshaft position, alternator, AC compressor, radiator fans, ABS module, etc. There is also a ground wire on the trans down in front that can be removed. This should give plenty of play in that big bundle to move it.

This is correct - I think (been a few years now) that front/left wiring harness is also bolted to the block, under the exhaust manifold, in a couple spots

vincentm
04-14-11, 03:39 PM
Two questions, mainly out of curiosity and "standard procedure"

1.) Once my engine is out and cylinder heads are taken off, along with the bottom crankcase. What should i inspect it engine for?

2.) Cylinder honing? what part does it play in the overall function of an engine, mainly the NorthStar?

JoeTahoe
04-14-11, 04:15 PM
check cams and lifters for wear, The FSM says not to reuse main bearings. Are you pulling the pistons out?? If you are than you need new rod bearings and rod bolts per FSM. The factory honeing will still be there. Now I have rebuilt two Northstars and did hone with a flex hone, but they both did get reringed and all new bearings you will get a lot of comments on honeing. I asked Jake and went with his experience on this because I was reringing. Hope this helps and you are brave pulling it from the top. It looks like you are determined to get it out the top!! Looks good!!

vincentm
04-14-11, 04:57 PM
check cams and lifters for wear, The FSM says not to reuse main bearings. Are you pulling the pistons out?? If you are than you need new rod bearings and rod bolts per FSM. The factory honeing will still be there. Now I have rebuilt two Northstars and did hone with a flex hone, but they both did get reringed and all new bearings you will get a lot of comments on honeing. I asked Jake and went with his experience on this because I was reringing. Hope this helps and you are brave pulling it from the top. It looks like you are determined to get it out the top!! Looks good!!


Duly noted, since my plans are to stud, and install a new cylinder gasket set, along with resealing the bottom crankcase and new manifold plate (purchased from Rippy), how much more work would it be (and $$) to do a rebuild of the motor?

JoeTahoe
04-14-11, 05:33 PM
probably around $600 with GM rings, rod bolts and clevite bearings

vincentm
04-14-11, 06:15 PM
Hmmmm, sounds tempting, might consider doing so for three reasons:

1. Ill have the engine and broken down already

2. I love my Eldorado, and it has 132k on it

3. $600 isnt much more given that ive already almost $2000 so far on this project

JoeTahoe
04-14-11, 06:51 PM
if you do it ONLY use GM rings and take your time and mark every thing, it will take some time with clean up and asm.

tateos
04-14-11, 09:59 PM
I think in most cases, it doesn't pay to re-do the bottom end, unless you have a problem, as the (exhaust) cams will be the first thing to fail. I'm inclined to say that if you really like the car, and plan to keep it a long time, save the $600 to put into the next repair or replacement engine when the cams/lifters go.

vincentm
04-15-11, 07:12 PM
New manifold plate, thank you Rippy! Pleasure doing business with ya.

http://tapa.tk/mu/d036208a-d0f5-ac33.jpg

vincentm
04-16-11, 08:49 PM
Son of a bitch this AC compressor is hard to remove!!!!

vincentm
04-17-11, 09:13 AM
Got wiring disconnected and removed along with egr and water crossover. Today will be Y pipe and mounts and bell housing bolts shell be out today

vincentm
04-17-11, 04:00 PM
Ok, so after inspecting the Y pipe and seeing how im going to get that disconnected im totally intimidated, speaking with Tim from Carroll Custom Cadillac, im told to drop the rear sub frame 3 inches to gain access to the 4 bolts that allow you to remove said pipe. Im thinking if its not too late in this point to just drop the entire cradle...

Speedygman
04-17-11, 04:30 PM
Now you are talking very good thoughts?

jimsbox
04-17-11, 05:02 PM
Vincent,
I can't conceive of any thing you have done or could have done that would preclude you from being able to drop the cradle. Any reason you may think you can't now? Believe me, it isn't a picnic to drop the cradle but I can only imagine pulling from the top. If you decide to go ahead and drop the cradle there will be a lot more of us that can contribute knowledgably. Keep us posted.

JoeTahoe
04-17-11, 05:32 PM
I have done two now by droping the cradle. If and when I do it again I will do the same. I give any one a lot of credit that trys to pull it out the top. I did think about it, but then said why fight it

vincentm
04-19-11, 11:12 AM
No work done since Saturday, Y pipe removal has me extremely intimidated and i don't feel comfortable with dropping the rear of the cradle enough to access the bolts. I only have two jack stands and they're currently used in holding up the front of the vehicle.


Jake i could sure use some info from you right now, since you pull the engines out the top all the time.

jimsbox
04-19-11, 08:19 PM
If I understand correctly you are working under the car without using jack stands? Bad idea, I would get a set of quality jack stands to support the car then your jacks will be free to use on the cradle.

ternstes
04-20-11, 06:31 AM
Just get two more jack stands for the rear of the cradle. They should be relatively inexpensive. Get the jack stands in position so they sit where you want the cradle to end up dropping, then support the rear sub frame with a jack and loosen the cradle bolts.

I used an impact gun to loosen the cradle bolts because I am lazy.

Once you get the sub frame lowered a bit, the two bolts to the exhaust crossover are 10 mm and the two to the rear exhaust manifold are 15 mm, I believe. Mine were quite rusty. A lot of soaking in PB Blaster and loosening and re-tightening the bolts to work the penetrant in. Same goes for the front exhaust manifold to crossover pipe connection (10 mm). It felt like the bolts were going to snap before they finally broke free.

jimsbox
04-21-11, 01:19 AM
I knocked mine off with an impact wrench with no problem but, I had the cradle out where I could get to them.

I won't even thinking of getting under a car supported by a couple of jacks, it needs to be on ramps, stands or a lift before I slide anything more than an arm under it. Just me, but people die not taking that advice for what it's worth.

tateos
04-22-11, 09:55 PM
Ok, so after inspecting the Y pipe and seeing how im going to get that disconnected im totally intimidated, speaking with Tim from Carroll Custom Cadillac, im told to drop the rear sub frame 3 inches to gain access to the 4 bolts that allow you to remove said pipe. Im thinking if its not too late in this point to just drop the entire cradle...

I followed your path, trying to avoid dropping the cradle on my '97 ETC, and I think I decided the drop the cradle at about the same point as where you are at. If you do drop the cradle, you will be shocked at how much re-assembly can be done prior to re-installation, and how much easier it is to do compared to hanging over the over the body while the cradle remains in the car - it's pretty amazing!

jimsbox
04-24-11, 06:38 AM
Vincent how goes the slaying of the Northstar beast?

vincentm
04-25-11, 09:49 AM
Haven't worked on it for about a week, these past 7 months i had come near to a divorce with the wife, so we're trying to repair things between us, so just been focusing on that. I've arranged for Carroll Custom Cadillac to finish the job, they'll be picking it up this week and will install the stud kit, and reseal it and install the manifold plate then the wife and i will take a train to Vancouver WA to pick it up drive it back, should make for a nice ride home. Can't wait. thanks for all that have been helping me i know i could've done it, but again, i had to throw in the towel. but at least i know more about my car than i did before and not so intimidated by it as much as i was before. :D

stoveguyy
04-25-11, 10:21 AM
the caddy was my wifes car. headgaskets went and she bought new car. took up 1 side of our garage for several months while i fixed motor. she has only driven it a few times in the last couple years. runs great now. but it is 15+yrs old. its my car now but i really want a different car. maybe a truck.

RippyPartsDept
04-25-11, 10:52 AM
New manifold plate, thank you Rippy! Pleasure doing business with ya.

http://tapa.tk/mu/d036208a-d0f5-ac33.jpg

Thanks for the business!

Let me know if there's anything else that I can help with

tateos
04-25-11, 03:18 PM
Haven't worked on it for about a week, these past 7 months i had come near to a divorce with the wife, so we're trying to repair things between us, so just been focusing on that. I've arranged for Carroll Custom Cadillac to finish the job, they'll be picking it up this week and will install the stud kit, and reseal it and install the manifold plate then the wife and i will take a train to Vancouver WA to pick it up drive it back, should make for a nice ride home. Can't wait. thanks for all that have been helping me i know i could've done it, but again, i had to throw in the towel. but at least i know more about my car than i did before and not so intimidated by it as much as i was before. :D

I imagine that trying to repair a marriage is even harder and more painful and more tiring than fixing a N* HG, so I think you made the right move to make that your priority. Going for a long ride with the wife COULD be a nice ride - it depends on the wife...

vincentm
04-26-11, 09:22 AM
Yea we've been living apart and have just started to live together again, im still renting the house we were in together before the split, put in my notice to move so next month i should be in one spot.

jimsbox
04-26-11, 11:03 AM
Good luck Vincent, can't let a car interfere with family. You are doing the right thing but obviously you already know that. How long have you been married?

vincentm
04-27-11, 04:18 PM
Thanks guys. Ok, so when i took the hood off, on the passenger side, the two bolts going to the body of the car, snapped off and the threads are stuck in there, How do i remove these? What size are they? CCC is needing the hood on by Saturday when they come to retrieve the vehicle.

vincentm
04-27-11, 04:33 PM
Good luck Vincent, can't let a car interfere with family.

I think you underestimate my love for my Eldorado lol, J/K



You are doing the right thing but obviously you already know that. How long have you been married?


We split up 2 days before our 3yr anniversary in September of 2010

vincentm
05-04-11, 10:00 PM
Carroll Custom Cadillac came for my baby today, Tim Carroll is an awesome guy, ill post the "watch your repair" link once its posted on their site. Cant wait to drive my Eldo again!

Jake they will be installing a new manifold plate :-)

maeng9981
05-05-11, 02:36 AM
Just by reading through their website, I can tell that they are great. Hopefully your Eldo will get repaired soon!!

vincentm
05-08-11, 12:18 PM
http://carrollcustomcadillac.com/97EldoradoVinny.aspx

ThumperPup
05-09-11, 12:21 PM
wow they take them out the top there i did not know that
is that something that can be done just in the eldo is it easier to do it with the eldo then the seville
so far the only one i know of that has taken them out the top atleast that i have heard of is Jake
so just wondering is it because of the set up in the eldorado more room or something

vincentm
05-09-11, 04:53 PM
I am now the website administrator for carrollcustomcadillac.com. over the next few weeks ill be cleaning the site up, and restructering it to make it more readable and attractive, ill also be investigating new possibilities with it, flash graphic animations, videos etc.

RippyPartsDept
05-09-11, 05:01 PM
awesome... i was thinking the other day a few weeks ago when i was checking their site out that it seemed like there was a lot of good content there but not organized very well... (lots of little 'style' errors or mistakes)

vincentm
05-10-11, 09:25 AM
awesome... i was thinking the other day a few weeks ago when i was checking their site out that it seemed like there was a lot of good content there but not organized very well... (lots of little 'style' errors or mistakes)

Yea it's going to be fun.

vincentm
05-10-11, 09:25 AM
http://carrollcustomcadillac.com/97EldoradoVinny.aspx

Updated, check it out!

maeng9981
05-10-11, 07:09 PM
I gotta say that I did enjoy it when I put those studs in place. Looks like it's getting done step by step. Good luck, and I see the edited page :)

98eldo32v
05-11-11, 01:49 AM
This is interesting to watch.

It's like getting a preview of what I have to do to my same car.....

vincentm
05-11-11, 03:58 PM
Well here are my Rod bearings, i'm told they're bad and the engine can be slapped back into the car as it is now, (resealed and studded) but with the bearing like this, catastrophic failure will be soon. What do you guys think?

http://i52.tinypic.com/28rywq1.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/w2ljef.jpg

http://i53.tinypic.com/29ynuio.jpg

Cost will be lower now to rebuild it while the engine's out the car, v.s rebuilding it later once it fails, basically was told the crankshaft is out of balance:

"Also the third pic is the rear main bearing it is the worse one and is the one to
show clearly that the crank is out of balance.

If I rebuild the bottom end this will include a new crank, all new main and rod bearings,
new rod cap bolts,
new rings with freshly thatched honed cylinders.
Complete new lower everything!
"

RippyPartsDept
05-11-11, 04:26 PM
yeah definitely get them replaced now rather than later... it will surely cost a lot less

vincentm
05-11-11, 04:29 PM
Those chips i see in them aren't good right? so if i'm right, the'yre caused by the cranshaft being out of balance and knocking against them?

00 Deville
05-11-11, 04:29 PM
Do you think you would of found this if you continued on with the HG job yourself?

vincentm
05-11-11, 04:41 PM
Do you think you would of found this if you continued on with the HG job yourself?

Honestly, i don't know, i'm still learning (thank goodness for this site). I don't know much about crankshafts, bearings, pistons, etc. I'm just a follow by the book kinda guy.

vincentm
05-11-11, 06:07 PM
Those chips i see in them aren't good right? so if i'm right, the'yre caused by the cranshaft being out of balance and knocking against them?

Nevermind, those ar oil passages, lol. As i said, i'm stil learning.

vincentm
05-12-11, 10:12 AM
More pics:
http://i54.tinypic.com/vdix6p.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/sxj8ma.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/2i26b94.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/wb6yyp.jpg

stoveguyy
05-12-11, 02:09 PM
i hope those are water drops on block mating surface. sure looks odd. did you just hose down the block? out of round crank or unbalanced? thought N* was so well built? are you having it checked for straightness? or new?

vincentm
05-12-11, 02:12 PM
Those are water drops, it's getting a new crank

89falcon
05-12-11, 05:13 PM
Did you say you were getting the cyllinders honed? Maybe I'm missing something, but I understand that honing them is a BIG NO NO!!! The crosshatch already there is PLENTY!

As for the bearings....yeah, they are worn, but really don't look that abnormal to me....based on other engines I've built (mostly small blocks). I swapped out the engine on my STS at a little over 200K with a blown HG....I plan on pulling the bottom end apart after I pull the heads....reat learing experience for my son....I'll let you know what my bearings look like.

A good machine shop couldn't balance your old crank? I've heard people say the crank shouldn't be turned, but they do sell oversized bearings for the engine.

vincentm
05-17-11, 06:26 PM
Did you say you were getting the cyllinders honed? Maybe I'm missing something, but I understand that honing them is a BIG NO NO!!! The crosshatch already there is PLENTY!

Freshly thatched honed cylinders


As for the bearings....yeah, they are worn, but really don't look that abnormal to me....based on other engines I've built (mostly small blocks). I swapped out the engine on my STS at a little over 200K with a blown HG....I plan on pulling the bottom end apart after I pull the heads....reat learing experience for my son....I'll let you know what my bearings look like.

A good machine shop couldn't balance your old crank? I've heard people say the crank shouldn't be turned, but they do sell oversized bearings for the engine.

New crank and new and main rod bearings, they were installed this past Saturday. I also got new rings and new rod cap bolts, complete new lower everything.

I pick my baby up this weekend, the repair page will be updated tomorrow with new pictures.

vincentm
05-18-11, 03:46 PM
Updated page

http://carrollcustomcadillac.com/97EldoradoVinny.aspx

RippyPartsDept
05-18-11, 04:03 PM
looking good!

and thanks for the 'shout out' and link

89falcon
05-18-11, 04:22 PM
OK....couple Questions.....not trying to dispute what the guy is doing....just clarifying info I've seen here....seperating the wheat from the chaff.....

-why did he use the copper head gasket spray? I've always used it when using simple metal head gaskets, but what's the logic behind using it when you are using a Felpro gasket that has it's own "glue" to fill the little gaps?
-on another build, he remarked that all 8 rods had egg shaped journals when torqued....didn't one of the engineers say on these boards that it WILL happen....and you should NEVER remove the end caps and then attempt to simply replace them and torque them down....
-still not sure about honing.....what's the answer?

Engine ready to come out the top in less than 2 hours? I'm IMPRESSED!!!! Sounds like ouot the top isn't as bad as it's made out to be!

vincentm
05-18-11, 04:35 PM
OK....couple Questions.....not trying to dispute what the guy is doing....just clarifying info I've seen here....seperating the wheat from the chaff.....

-why did he use the copper head gasket spray? I've always used it when using simple metal head gaskets, but what's the logic behind using it when you are using a Felpro gasket that has it's own "glue" to fill the little gaps?
Im guessing is because the gasket set is one i purchased (along with the studs before he came to get the vehicle) from rockauto, and according to him, is known for selling sub par products. I was told on the phone that this will ensure that they don't fail. And to have bought Felpro instead.


-on another build, he remarked that all 8 rods had egg shaped journals when torqued....didn't one of the engineers say on these boards that it WILL happen....and you should NEVER remove the end caps and then attempt to simply replace them and torque them down....
-still not sure about honing.....what's the answer?

Not sure, but feel free to send him an email he'll respond:

carrollcadillac@live.com


Engine ready to come out the top in less than 2 hours? I'm IMPRESSED!!!! Sounds like ouot the top isn't as bad as it's made out to be!

Well its easy for him, and Jake here, but in this case i had it ready to come out when he came to pickup my car with the exception of the Y pipe and a few other things (mounts, bell housing bolts, etc)

foxjohnc
05-18-11, 08:54 PM
OK....couple Questions.....not trying to dispute what the guy is doing....just clarifying info I've seen here....seperating the wheat from the chaff.....

-why did he use the copper head gasket spray? I've always used it when using simple metal head gaskets, but what's the logic behind using it when you are using a Felpro gasket that has it's own "glue" to fill the little gaps?
-on another build, he remarked that all 8 rods had egg shaped journals when torqued....didn't one of the engineers say on these boards that it WILL happen....and you should NEVER remove the end caps and then attempt to simply replace them and torque them down....
-still not sure about honing.....what's the answer?

Engine ready to come out the top in less than 2 hours? I'm IMPRESSED!!!! Sounds like ouot the top isn't as bad as it's made out to be!


I use the Permatex copper coat on all head gasket installs, northstar or not. These engines are very prone to pitting in the gasket mating surfaces on the block and heads. I feel like it is extra insurance for a successful engine build. I use it on exhaust manifold and flange gaskets as well and have not had any problems.

If you havent ever used it, you would not believe how tacky the stuff is until it is completely cured. I usually spray 2-3 thin coats on the head gaskets and let them cure for a day. About 30mins before I am ready to set the heads on I will spray two thick coats on the gaskets and let them start to tack up. When you set the gaskets on the block the coating is so sticky that the gasket is basically glued to the block. After I install the heads, I try to let it cure for a day before I run the engine. Have done several northstars this way and dozens of other car and motorcycle engines without any problems at all.

89falcon
05-18-11, 09:47 PM
I use the Permatex copper coat on all head gasket installs, northstar or not. These engines are very prone to pitting in the gasket mating surfaces on the block and heads. I feel like it is extra insurance for a successful engine build. I use it on exhaust manifold and flange gaskets as well and have not had any problems.

If you havent ever used it, you would not believe how tacky the stuff is until it is completely cured. I usually spray 2-3 thin coats on the head gaskets and let them cure for a day. About 30mins before I am ready to set the heads on I will spray two thick coats on the gaskets and let them start to tack up. When you set the gaskets on the block the coating is so sticky that the gasket is basically glued to the block. After I install the heads, I try to let it cure for a day before I run the engine. Have done several northstars this way and dozens of other car and motorcycle engines without any problems at all.

Thanks Fox!
I'm a big believer in the "concept", and use this: http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm instead of silicon gasket makers when I install pretty much every gasket EXCEPT the heads and exhaust manifold.....works GREAT and IMO is the most effective may to stop the "non-pressurized" oil leaks....
I also used the copper stuff on the exhaust gaskets when I recently swapped out my 200K blown head gasket NS with a 100K used motor. I just wasn't completely comfortable putting it on a gasket surface where there is already a glue....I like the idea of using it if it's "ok", so I'll assume it is!

Thanks!!
Falcon

vincentm
05-20-11, 04:33 PM
Go pick it up tomorrow, so excited

vincentm
05-21-11, 05:06 PM
Currently driving back from CCC wife is behind the wheel, oh my gosh, this car is running really really good, you can totally feel the power, wow.

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

vincentm
05-21-11, 05:22 PM
Thank you Carroll Custom Cadillac ( me in the green shorts, Tim Carroll on the right)

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

vincentm
05-21-11, 05:23 PM
-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

RippyPartsDept
05-21-11, 07:22 PM
awesome!
i love to hear these success stories

vincentm
05-23-11, 10:14 AM
270 miles on the engine thus far, oil, coolant, tranny, fluids are looking great.This car has so much power now, the fuel consumption is great, from Vancouver WA, to Kennewick WA, i barely went over half a tank. I'd like to thank Jake for his Northstar Performance Studs, All the help i've received on here, this is a great community in helping to keep these beautiful motors on the road. Thank you very much, later i'll post a video of my drive (it's uploading to Youtube now). and pictures.

vincentm
05-23-11, 11:02 AM
http://i52.tinypic.com/20acrxy.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/f3s61.jpg

Some shots of the Columbia river WA side.

http://i54.tinypic.com/2cx9208.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/f3vpeh.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/33jsk21.jpg

Video of drive back


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4cWwxWOKmQ

vincentm
05-31-11, 10:31 AM
Approaching the first 500 miles and it's running great, had to put a quart of oil in it yesterday, and got my thermostat fixed, the housing has new bolts and no leaks at all all other fluids are still good. Can't wait to finish the 1000 mile mark so i can really drive it. Now if i can get this harness ground issue fixed.

97EldoCoupe
06-02-11, 07:50 PM
You're very welcome Vincent. I hope that ETC lasts a very, very long time. What a beauty- my black on black is en route to me right now can't wait to get my own car fixed and be driving an Eldo again too :)

vincentm
06-04-11, 01:06 PM
You're very welcome Vincent. I hope that ETC lasts a very, very long time. What a beauty- my black on black is en route to me right now can't wait to get my own car fixed and be driving an Eldo again too :)

Here's the kicker, mines is a Canadian export, odometer goes up to 240, block heater and all lol

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

vincentm
06-06-11, 08:14 PM
Had an oil change done at the service of where I originally bought this car. Upon inspection they found a crack in the block, dye test confirmed today, I saw it myself its pretty big..now I don't know wtf to do...I'm ready to say **** this car..

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

RippyPartsDept
06-06-11, 11:45 PM
WHAT?

are you sure? how did ccc not catch this??

89falcon
06-07-11, 12:36 AM
Had an oil change done at the service of where I originally bought this car. Upon inspection they found a crack in the block, dye test confirmed today, I saw it myself its pretty big..now I don't know wtf to do...I'm ready to say **** this car..

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

Dang Vince!

where is the crack? picture? Is it a "structural" or "stress" crack? If it ain't leaking, or overheating, run it til it dies!

BTW, mine is a Canadian car also....no block heater, but it came with the 240 Speedo.....I swapped it out for a US set I got on ebay....where I learned that the instr cluster requires the passkey code (which really can't be reset), and so does the PCM (which can be)....so I got to spend 30 minutes with resistors attached to the passkey connection going thru each code....and waiting 5 minutes when it was wrong each time! I find it interesting that my Canadian gauge cluster DIDN'T say "Premium Unleaded Only".......for a while, I wondered if the engines where actually different (lower compression in Canadian cars), but I guess not.

98eldo32v
06-07-11, 02:16 AM
Had an oil change done at the service of where I originally bought this car. Upon inspection they found a crack in the block, dye test confirmed today, I saw it myself its pretty big..now I don't know wtf to do...I'm ready to say **** this car..

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!

You've got to be kidding. I've been following your thread because it's helping me get idea of things to come and look for. Watched your video of the drive, I was glad that you saved your car.

HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT OR HAPPEN........

I know you have mixed emotions about the whole situation.
I feel for you.......

vincentm
06-07-11, 08:57 AM
I'll take it back to the shop today, and see if they can jack it up so i can take a picture, CCC is asking for one as well.

JoeTahoe
06-07-11, 09:38 AM
this is hart breaking!!!!

vincentm
06-07-11, 10:32 AM
this is hart breaking!!!!

When they had it for the oil change on Friday they pulled me into the shop to point it out to me, i saw what looked liked a crack, i agreed for them to perform a dye test, drive it over the weekend and bring it in on Monday (yesterday). which i did, they pulled me into the shop shined a UV light on it and i can see it. They stated i can use a block sealer but it would only be a band-aid fix, which i agree. CCC is saying i can use a block sealer for an indefinite repair, i don't agree.... He opted to switch out the block for me, but i don't want to be charged at all for this..

The mechanic who discovered it stated it might have always been there, but was sealed up. when the block was cleaned for rebuilding it re-exposed it, allowing for coolant to weep out, its not making it to the ground, but was told it will get bigger, and to just have the block swapped out.

00 Deville
06-07-11, 11:29 AM
Sorry to here about the crack in your block. Any crack in metal will continue to grow when exposed to stress and heat/cold cycles. No miracle in a bottle will change this fact.

vincentm
06-07-11, 11:40 AM
I'm being told it was unable to have been pressure tested when i turned the car over after my "attempt" to stud and reseal it.

00 Deville
06-07-11, 12:18 PM
I'm being told it was unable to have been pressure tested when i turned the car over after my "attempt" to stud and reseal it.

Then the question is... should the crack in the block have been detected by a visual inspection during overhaul? Pictures?

vincentm
06-07-11, 12:33 PM
Then the question is... should the crack in the block have been detected by a visual inspection during overhaul? Pictures?

Was told it was inspected, and that the block was "pristine"

89falcon
06-07-11, 12:36 PM
Was told it was inspected, and that the block was "pristine"

Vince, is the crack anywhere near a stud?

97EldoCoupe
06-07-11, 02:53 PM
I want to know more about this pronto. It is proving to be a very difficult day at the shop today (if anyone has to supply a chain of auto repair centers they know what I'm talking about). This news is not good.

-what is leaking?
-where is it leaking from?

Vincent- what I said in my email wasn't totally correct. Overtorquing a stud should NOT cause a block to crack....BUT.....uneven torque may. There are 10 studs on each bank and without even torque, one stud may be doing the work of others and through heat cycles, the added stress on certain areas of the block could cause a crack. Same as some head bolts holding, some letting go.

-how many miles since the studding?
-could this crack have been missed? (I damn near missed spotting a crack a few weeks ago, I felt really bad, but human error happens with anyone, CCC, Northstar Performance, anyone).

I have not once had a block crack after repairs were made.

Let us know more details as soon as they become available.

Back to work.

vincentm
06-07-11, 03:28 PM
Vince, is the crack anywhere near a stud?

Was told that its near the cylinder on the water jacket..

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

97EldoCoupe
06-07-11, 03:40 PM
So we are talking about a coolant leak?

vincentm
06-07-11, 03:55 PM
So we are talking about a coolant leak?

Yup, that's what's being reported that's leaking

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

89falcon
06-07-11, 05:47 PM
So we are talking about a coolant leak?

hmmm....
is it possible to drill the end of the crack to stop it from spreading and braze/soldier it in the car? It should only have 15-20 psi of pressure on it.....

00 Deville
06-07-11, 06:01 PM
hmmm....
is it possible to drill the end of the crack to stop it from spreading and braze/soldier it in the car?

Stop drilling of cracks in aluminum sheet metal is common practice in the aerospace industry. I've never heard of this this being a common practice with a cast aluminum block.

Submariner409
06-07-11, 06:11 PM
..............no such thing as "braze/solder" aluminum. It's Heliarc (helium blanket aluminum wire welding) and that's chancy on cast aluminum.

vincentm
06-07-11, 07:50 PM
Here's the crack. Its about 1- 1/4" long.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/d03620dd-b935-34f8.jpg

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

89falcon
06-07-11, 08:50 PM
..............no such thing as "braze/solder" aluminum. It's Heliarc (helium blanket aluminum wire welding) and that's chancy on cast aluminum.

I disagree.....

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

drewsdeville
06-07-11, 09:27 PM
Also, Devcon makes some excellent metal epoxies made just for castings, including aluminum...you can even machine and tap the stuff.

vincentm
06-08-11, 10:43 AM
So I'm told that

"This could be caused by a couple of things one if it ever slightly froze and not knowing, started it and it warmed up causing the crack which is the most likely the cause "

Sorry, but I'm not believing that...


-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

maeng9981
06-08-11, 11:04 AM
This is rather sad. I hope you get the best answer and solutions.

00 Deville
06-08-11, 12:20 PM
So I'm told that

"This could be caused by a couple of things one if it ever slightly froze and not knowing, started it and it warmed up causing the crack which is the most likely the cause "

Sorry, but I'm not believing that...

So if it's below freezing we are not supposed to start any car with an aluminum block. You can put me down for not believing that line of crap either.
:bsflag:

97EldoCoupe
06-08-11, 01:48 PM
That is B.S..

Submariner409- I owe you a return PM and had typed one on my laptop, right before I had internet connection issues. I will re-send it soon.

VincentM - Thank you for the phone call. I look forward to your reply email.

I won't say too much regarding this yet until I have a bit more information to work with. But I do know one thing:

Any shop that does an engine install should know that in colder climates, proper mixture of coolant/antifreeze and water is ESSENTIAL AND ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to avoid freeze cracking. So if they blame freeze cracking, and that crack happened after the car left their shop, they should be paying more attention to their coolant mixture.

Either that, or it was cracked before it was brought to them. In which case, that should have caught their attention. A coolant leak from the block itself is more difficult to miss than the one I had recently, that was leaking oil from the drainbacks and was covered in a thin layer of oily film (common with any engine that has a half-case oil leak).

I will not pass blame and I don't know the full story yet so I cannot give a justified opinion as to the when/why/how/what to do now.

johnny kannapo
06-08-11, 02:01 PM
The cracking on these blocks are all stress related unless the coolant froze.

I don't know what I am exactly looking at in that picture.

Submariner409
06-08-11, 04:32 PM
I disagree.....

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

Good find.............I was going on the old brass/bronze torch brazing metals and fluxes.

Could have used that on an alternator ear a while back.............

tateos
06-08-11, 05:08 PM
The cracking on these blocks are all stress related unless the coolant froze.

I don't know what I am exactly looking at in that picture.

Looks like the brace on the left rear of the engine

89falcon
06-08-11, 05:21 PM
Good find.............I was going on the old brass/bronze torch brazing metals and fluxes.

Could have used that on an alternator ear a while back.............

Actually, I was thinking about the brass and flux method myself.....;)

I'm thinking about ordering some to experiment with.....see what kind of torque it will take with a random bolt size.....like maybe 11 x 1.75.....

vincentm
06-08-11, 05:30 PM
Looks like the brace on the left rear of the engine

Yup, that's where it is near driver side on the front.

97EldoCoupe
06-08-11, 05:56 PM
I am judging by the photos that Vincent has sent me that block had been thoroughly inspected. The block was washed and it was on a stand upside down when they re-sealed the bottom end. There's no way they could miss that crack or the leaks of orange dex that would have been leaking from it.

Also, Vincent I hope you won't mind me posting this:

CCC will not even replace the engine at no charge if Vincent were to provide a replacement.

If this were to happen at my shop this is the absolute least I would do for my customer given the fact that Vincent just paid a pile of money to get his vehicle working right again.

I will not blame the studs but the possibility of uneven torquing or an error during install is roughly what I'm thinking caused this. This is the torque procedure:

In factory sequence: (center working outward in an "x" pattern): 30 ft. lbs, 60 ft. lbs, and 80 ft. lbs. The reason the three passes are required is to apply even clamping pressure across the head/block until final torque is achieved.

CCC denies having any fault in this crack and will not even help the customer with a no-charge engine swap if a replacement were provided. You can bet that I will not send any customers their way nor will I send any stud kits their way. I understand they don't want to eat the cost of a $4000 job (it's hard) but this is not fair to Vincent. I've had to eat costs and work overtime for free sometimes even through a Sunday night to rectify things- spend hours chasing electrical problems only to find out the problem was existent prior to receiving the vehicle in the first place- and not charge any extra to repair this:

People remember work quality. The good and the bad. How the customers are treated. I may not always be on time with my repairs as I'd like to be but I do my best to do a perfect job and stand behind it.

It's time to open a U.S. location.

Vincent whether Carroll is willing to help you or not, I cannot give you a free engine but I will be looking into some options for you to try to help you out somehow. You shouldn't be stuck without wheels after paying $4k for this repair.

89falcon
06-08-11, 05:57 PM
Yup, that's where it is near driver side on the front.

Is it just above the oil pan? Looks WAY too low to have anything to do with the studs.

If someone else was paying the bill to fix it, I'd want a new block.....If I were paying the bill myself, I'd try the aluminum trick at the link earlier in the thread....and if that didn't work...epoxy.....worth a (cheap) try before pulling the engine!

It's not like you got it back in February.....in Calgary....did you ever have a "hard freeze"?....even if you did, I'd think that the bottom of the block (but far enough from the bottom of the car to avoid the wind) would be the LAST place to freeze.

vincentm
06-08-11, 06:10 PM
Is it just above the oil pan?

It is


Looks WAY too low to have anything to do with the studs.

Mechanic that found it states it's just below the water jacket on the block, near where the stud is threaded in


If someone else was paying the bill to fix it, I'd want a new block.....If I were paying the bill myself, I'd try the aluminum trick at the link earlier in the thread....and if that didn't work...epoxy.....worth a (cheap) try before pulling the engine!

Cadillac dealership here in Pasco WA called me and said it was due to re-assembly, most likely during the stud installation, i had service done by them in January and have an invoice (that i lost) being mailed to me by them stating during a full engine inspection no crack was present at the time.



It's not like you got it back in February.....in Calgary....did you ever have a "hard freeze"?....even if you did, I'd think that the bottom of the block (but far enough from the bottom of the car to avoid the wind) would be the LAST place to freeze.

Coldest it got here was in November when it hit -4f, and even then i had it in my shop.

89falcon
06-08-11, 06:12 PM
I am judging by the photos that Vincent has sent me that block had been thoroughly inspected. The block was washed and it was on a stand upside down when they re-sealed the bottom end. There's no way they could miss that crack or the leaks of orange dex that would have been leaking from it.

Also, Vincent I hope you won't mind me posting this:

CCC will not even replace the engine at no charge if Vincent were to provide a replacement.

If this were to happen at my shop this is the absolute least I would do for my customer given the fact that Vincent just paid a pile of money to get his vehicle working right again.

I will not blame the studs but the possibility of uneven torquing or an error during install is roughly what I'm thinking caused this. This is the torque procedure:

In factory sequence: (center working outward in an "x" pattern): 30 ft. lbs, 60 ft. lbs, and 80 ft. lbs. The reason the three passes are required is to apply even clamping pressure across the head/block until final torque is achieved.

CCC denies having any fault in this crack and will not even help the customer with a no-charge engine swap if a replacement were provided. You can bet that I will not send any customers their way nor will I send any stud kits their way. I understand they don't want to eat the cost of a $4000 job (it's hard) but this is not fair to Vincent. I've had to eat costs and work overtime for free sometimes even through a Sunday night to rectify things- spend hours chasing electrical problems only to find out the problem was existent prior to receiving the vehicle in the first place- and not charge any extra to repair this:

People remember work quality. The good and the bad. How the customers are treated. I may not always be on time with my repairs as I'd like to be but I do my best to do a perfect job and stand behind it.

It's time to open a U.S. location.

Vincent whether Carroll is willing to help you or not, I cannot give you a free engine but I will be looking into some options for you to try to help you out somehow. You shouldn't be stuck without wheels after paying $4k for this repair.

AS I said before, I have a 97 block....I haven't taken it to the machine shop yet, but no apparent cracks......it had about 5 bad head bolts, but all the main cap bolts were good. I'm in Colorado, but if we can figure out shipping, the block is yours. I'll also take it down to a local machine shop for the clean and check if you'll cover that.

I'd still try the repair first....it's worth a try.....but thinking out loud...if the heads weren't torqued properly, would it be beneficial to back all the nuts off a little, then re-torque to spec? If stress caused the crack, then shouldn't the stress be removed?

89falcon
06-08-11, 06:19 PM
It is


Mechanic that found it states it's just below the water jacket on the block, near where the stud is threaded in



OK, now I'm confused......if it's just above the oil pan, is it in the lower half of the block (ie the half that the studs DON'T go into)?

vincentm
06-08-11, 06:25 PM
I am judging by the photos that Vincent has sent me that block had been thoroughly inspected. The block was washed and it was on a stand upside down when they re-sealed the bottom end. There's no way they could miss that crack or the leaks of orange dex that would have been leaking from it.

Also, Vincent I hope you won't mind me posting this:

CCC will not even replace the engine at no charge if Vincent were to provide a replacement.

If this were to happen at my shop this is the absolute least I would do for my customer given the fact that Vincent just paid a pile of money to get his vehicle working right again.

I will not blame the studs but the possibility of uneven torquing or an error during install is roughly what I'm thinking caused this. This is the torque procedure:

In factory sequence: (center working outward in an "x" pattern): 30 ft. lbs, 60 ft. lbs, and 80 ft. lbs. The reason the three passes are required is to apply even clamping pressure across the head/block until final torque is achieved.

CCC denies having any fault in this crack and will not even help the customer with a no-charge engine swap if a replacement were provided. You can bet that I will not send any customers their way nor will I send any stud kits their way. I understand they don't want to eat the cost of a $4000 job (it's hard) but this is not fair to Vincent. I've had to eat costs and work overtime for free sometimes even through a Sunday night to rectify things- spend hours chasing electrical problems only to find out the problem was existent prior to receiving the vehicle in the first place- and not charge any extra to repair this:

People remember work quality. The good and the bad. How the customers are treated. I may not always be on time with my repairs as I'd like to be but I do my best to do a perfect job and stand behind it.

It's time to open a U.S. location.

Vincent whether Carroll is willing to help you or not, I cannot give you a free engine but I will be looking into some options for you to try to help you out somehow. You shouldn't be stuck without wheels after paying $4k for this repair.

:cheers:

Submariner409
06-08-11, 06:36 PM
I want someone to look into studs, holes, torque, and hole depth.

Correct me if I'm wrong - old engine builders - studs go in finger tight. With a tad of Loktite red. The final clamping torque is taken by the top fine thread nut and washer - NOT by any stud lower thread pre-load.

You bottom out a stud in a block thread hole - especially a hole that was not done with a bottoming tap - and I can almost guarantee that you'll pop the bottom of the hole - aluminum pops a lot quicker than steel..........and you can pop an aluminum block with leftover machining chips or too much thread lube. Hydraulic pressure is fearsome - look at what it will do to a hydrolocked cylinder: piston and rod.

Food for thought.

EDIT: And 89falcon has a legitimate point - it would take one long stud to reach the bottom of a cylinder liner.

tateos
06-08-11, 07:04 PM
That's some good insight, Sub. When I did mine, you may recall that I used Norms inserts - Jake's stud's weren't out yet. His kit comes with a tapered tap and a bottoming tap - you're supposed to use first one and then the other (like normal), and then use a gauge to position the insert at the proper depth and Loctite Red to hold it there. I found that just using the tapered tap, and installing finger tight (with the install tool), it positioned the insert perfectly, and then followed up with Loctite Red. It worked without a hitch for me, but if the Loctite red didn't hold, I suppose using only the tapered tap could have allowed the insert to turn in further than it should and put excess stress on the block and crack it...but it didn't.

89falcon
06-08-11, 07:09 PM
I want someone to look into studs, holes, torque, and hole depth.

Correct me if I'm wrong - old engine builders - studs go in finger tight. With a tad of Loktite red. The final clamping torque is taken by the top fine thread nut and washer - NOT by any stud lower thread pre-load.



That is the ARP procedure....finger tight......

97EldoCoupe
06-08-11, 10:34 PM
The way we have it set up for the stud installation procedure- the tap is to be run down the hole to approx. 2.25" depth. This allows the studs to be threaded in loose a couple turns past flush (to countersink the large diameter end approx. 1/16"). The thread locker will set up and the studs will be tight in less than 20 minutes. There should be no torque on the studs whatsoever. As Jim states, if a stud is torqued in a hole tapped with a plug tap, it will put outward pressure in the head bolt hole and potentially cause a crack.

Jim (Submariner409) you brought up a very good point on hydraulic pressure building. Threaded fasteners can have this effect and multiply fluid pressure with every turn.

Vincent- are you familiar with "Carr Cadillac Buick GMC" in Vancouver? This is a Cadillac dealership in Vancouver, WA. Gus is the man to talk to if you want studs installed in that service department. I've sent a few sets to this dealership.

I'm trying to come up with a solution to help Vincent. 89Falcon is willing to donate a block. I'm willing to build it. I have a UPS Freight account and I'm setting up with a customs broker so I can import/export anything hassle free very, very soon (good news finally).

If 89Falcon is serious about his offer so am I. Some of the internals from your cracked block should be able to be used. New seals/gaskets,new set of studs, maybe your heads are OK- I'd go over everything again. It won't be free Vincent but I will give you a serious discount. I want your cracked engine shipped to me if you're ok with it. I want to do the tear-down and find out what's going on.

NOTE: As a business I can't do things cheap/free very often. I have to make a profit to survive and keep helping everyone with their Northstars. One of my customers is getting ripped off by a shop and I'm disgusted they're not willing to meet him part way.


Vincent is there any shop near you that could pull that engine back out? I could send you to Carr Vancouver but they are a fair distance. I called them for a price quote on my break earlier today (left Gus a message, no reply yet).

Carroll Cadillac
06-08-11, 10:47 PM
To all you who have been reading this issue with Vincent's Eldorado, My name is Tim Carroll, I am the owner of Carroll Custom Cadillac, Vincent was not just a customer he was my newsletter editor
and worked for C. C. C. I wonder if you can call this a disgruntle employee? Vincent "was" a friend and we were doing quite a bit together.
Whatever has happened here is not the way Vincent has made it out to be, in the time I have known him the one thing I did not know is one day my friend would lie on his friend as if our friendship meant nothing from the beginning' and maybe he was just being kind to get as much out of my company as possible? Who knows?
Here at C. C. C. we strive to satisfy all our clients and have successfully done so with a 100% satisfaction rate.
We are not in this business to take advantage of anyone and will go the extra mile to make sure our clients are taken care of in a personal friendly way.
By the way to you who have talked about the torquing, we have a step by step error free procedure to insure that a mistake cannot not in no way be made. When the time comes to torque there is two mechanics involved, one who will be the torquer the other to watch his every step, we started this because of how easy it can be to forget where you are, also there is no talking about anything except the procedure at hand. We developed this to insure an absolute proper torque, our words of no room for error is written on our wall.

We had plans for Vincents Caddy' this particular Caddy was to be a show car representing our company, and in return for Vincent's services in our club this approximate 6k paint job was a gift to Vincent,
yes very puzzling why he would give that up?
Just last night I sent vincent an email, and in that email I explained to him that "NOT ONLY WERE WE GOING TO REPAIR THIS" but we were going to still paint his caddy, and on top of that!!!!!!!!!
I would do a high performance modification, including our custom built Northstar fabricated headers, in that same email I told him the sky is the limit.
I told him we were friends.

Today' I get an email from Grady, he copied and pasted these lies about my company so I would know what Vincent has done, you can only imagine the shock I felt.

So to you Vincent, we were friends or so you had me beleive, I am not sure why you did not want me to repair and give you the block that I promised I would "GIVE" you, there was so much potential
and what about the paint job?
I am glad I have found this out before I gave you that much. It is a real shame that this has happened, it hurts dude, I have gotten alot of calls besides Grady's email and of course I called him and talk to him about it.

Vincent' I was your friend and I want you to know I have no hard feelings about what you done, I am sorry this all happened I would have finished your Caddy all the way to the custom paint.
I am going to miss all our conversations bro, today is a sad day. Goodbye my friend, hope you and your wife have a wonderful life.

Your friend, Tim C. You will always be in my prayers.

Carroll Cadillac
06-08-11, 10:52 PM
To all you who have been reading this issue with Vincent's Eldorado, My name is Tim Carroll, I am the owner of Carroll Custom Cadillac, Vincent was not just a customer he was my newsletter editor
and worked for C. C. C. I wonder if you can call this a disgruntle employee? Vincent "was" a friend and we were doing quite a bit together.
Whatever has happened here is not the way Vincent has made it out to be, in the time I have known him the one thing I did not know is one day my friend would lie on his friend as if our friendship meant nothing from the beginning' and maybe he was just being kind to get as much out of my company as possible? Who knows?
Here at C. C. C. we strive to satisfy all our clients and have successfully done so with a 100% satisfaction rate.
We are not in this business to take advantage of anyone and will go the extra mile to make sure our clients are taken care of in a personal friendly way.
By the way to you who have talked about the torquing, we have a step by step error free procedure to insure that a mistake cannot not in no way be made. When the time comes to torque there is two mechanics involved, one who will be the torquer the other to watch his every step, we started this because of how easy it can be to forget where you are, also there is no talking about anything except the procedure at hand. We developed this to insure an absolute proper torque, our words of no room for error is written on our wall.

We had plans for Vincents Caddy' this particular Caddy was to be a show car representing our company, and in return for Vincent's services in our club this approximate 6k paint job was a gift to Vincent,
yes very puzzling why he would give that up?
Just last night I sent vincent an email, and in that email I explained to him that "NOT ONLY WERE WE GOING TO REPAIR THIS" but we were going to still paint his caddy, and on top of that!!!!!!!!!
I would do a high performance modification, including our custom built Northstar fabricated headers, in that same email I told him the sky is the limit.
I told him we were friends.

Today' I get an email from Grady, he copied and pasted these lies about my company so I would know what Vincent has done, you can only imagine the shock I felt.

So to you Vincent, we were friends or so you had me beleive, I am not sure why you did not want me to repair and give you the block that I promised I would "GIVE" you, there was so much potential
and what about the paint job?
I am glad I have found this out before I gave you that much. It is a real shame that this has happened, it hurts dude, I have gotten alot of calls besides Grady's email and of course I called him and talk to him about it.

Vincent' I was your friend and I want you to know I have no hard feelings about what you done, I am sorry this all happened I would have finished your Caddy all the way to the custom paint.
I am going to miss all our conversations bro, today is a sad day. Goodbye my friend, hope you and your wife have a wonderful life.

Your friend, Tim C. You will always be in my prayers.

97EldoCoupe
06-08-11, 11:01 PM
Tim Carroll, CadillacForums and its members has the ability to make or break your reputation. I also have the ability to send you customers and help you in business along the way. Ever since I found out about your company through Vincent I've kept you on my list of "where to send people from Washington".

I suggest you take care of Vincent very quickly and make things right. As a shop I understand how hard eating a repair the 2nd time around can be. But it needs to be done. That 40-50 hours and roughly $2k that it would cost you to fix this, will be well worth your time and efforts and will save you ten times that in the long run.

Vincent, I urge you to allow Tim to make things right as I'm sure, if he's a man of his word, he will.

Carroll Cadillac
06-08-11, 11:26 PM
Your kidding me right, you just read my post and could not see that I was doing more for him then anyone I have ever heard would do to help a friend.
I have a reputation solid as a rock! I have never had anyone do or say what Vincent has about me. I am not in business for the money but for the love of Cadillac's
If it was about money I would not of retired from engineering.

I not only told him I would do this and had the block in stock' my shops fault or not! was his! I also was still going to do the complete custom package.
Vincent worked for our club he was not just a customer!

Reread what I wrote' and then tell me again that I should do it, it is futile to tell a man something he has already said he would do dont you think?

You tell me what else I could say that could be any clearer? Well? Make some since with that.

I dont know you and you certainly dont know me, I have gone out of my way for all my clients, I have ate it and paid out the pocket til it hurt to make sure the owner was completely satisfied.
I beleive in God and serve him with all my heart and I always pray about all I do to stay in check knowing I am doing the right thing.

You threatened to make or break me and you did it where the whole world can see it, they also seen me tell the whole world I was going to do whatever was neccessary to help Vincent.
I dont think what you have threatened to do to me here live is going to help you make or break me, why? Cause what you have said is wrong and devious.

Vincent was my friend I have no idea why he is so upset when I was going to do whatever I could to help him.

Carroll Cadillac
06-08-11, 11:46 PM
You just read my post, here is the email I sent Vincent last night:
Hey Vincent'

I have had time to think about this issue, I am definately going to help you get this done with as little
cost as possible.
I have to get this shop built there is no doubt about that it is holding me up from more then you can imagine,
once it is built we will get your Eldorado in and out asap.
The studs are fully retractable and we can reuse them without purchasing new ones a 325.00 savings
since all the upper end gaskets are new we will only have to purchase the head gaskets that will save even more money.
We will however want to purchase new bearings since the main bearings are set in the old block and will not reseat in the new one
no big deal.
Once the new shop is standing we should be able to do this for very little cost, we will use this to promote the business,
all good news to you, and good for us.
I still want to paint and maybe we can talk about doing a high performance package on it like custom fabricated headers,
the performance chip. turbo kit with a higher output fuel injector and raise the horse power to around 440 give it the looks of
a show car, I don't know how you feel about that but I am feeling excited about the finished results.
I plan to have quite of few hot rodded Northstar's out there representing our company and since we have gone through so
much together on this why not yours?
Do let me know if your up for all this? If you are then I will begin putting its package together, I spoke to my brother Mike tonight
and he is going to start the fabrication shop end of it, he is one of the best in the field of design and fab work, we both design in real time Cad
and then he makes all the magic happen.

The sky is the limit Bro, get back to me on this asap, so I know where we stand and if you feel better about this issue, you may get more
out of this then you thought possible.

Tim

You threaten defame me and my company here live for the whole world to see, to destroy my reputation.
I just told everyone Vincent was not just a customer but my editor and good friend, I also just wrote about doing this for him including the free custom paint job we had already had in our plans,
what more can a man say to make it any clearer.
What would you do if you were doing all you could to help a friend, to find out that someone like you was destroying your reputation for something you know absolutely nothing about.
This is wrong and I will not stand by and allow it even if I have to have my lawyer get involved' when it comes to my company I will stand behind.

To all those who are reading this' this is wrong! Carroll Custom Cadillac is one of the best Northstar mechanic shop in the entire Northwest, we have a 100% Satisfaction rate and have "NEVER" encountered
this sort of wrong doing.

97EldoCoupe
06-08-11, 11:50 PM
Tim, a reputation is what you make it. I said the Cadillac Forums (a public forum) has the ability to make or break your reputation. Not me personally. I know from experience, I've been through it all. I am telling you this to help you. I am trying to help you and Vincent both.

You cannot pass blame for the cracked block on Vincent, there is nothing he could have done to cause that. $hit happens. Period. I will question anyone who passes the blame for this on the customer unless it was well below 32 degrees F and it was less than 50% antifreeze in the cooling system. The freeze / expansion plugs are evidence, if the engine froze these plugs will be bowed outward.

I'm a Christian man myself and believe in doing the right thing and stay accountable for my actions. Let's resolve this in a good way, take care of Vincent, shake hands, fix his Cadillac and put this behind you both. If that's true, that there was a friendship long before this repair was made, it would be a complete shame to let a car come betweeen you both.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:02 AM
Yes it would he was the best newsletter editor I have ever had and he is who's to thank about my beautiful website' who do you think wrote the funny awesome stories?
Vincent did! We were going to be working together forever and we loved what we were doing.
yes we were friends and it's hard to beleive that I am talking to a complete stranger about it, we me and him should have been discussing the schedule to do this and build this soon
to be one of a kind Eldorado.
What is this about blaming him? I told him repeatedly he was not to blame that know one knows what happen? I told no wrries I had his back, you have no idea how this makes me feel.

Pay close attention to the end of my email to him where I told him he was going to get more out of this then he thought possible.
We had a special plan for Vincent when we painted it, my son who is one of the best graphic artist you ever seen when it came to automobiles had some special sketches he was showing me that he wanted to do.
You may wonder why we were going to do this well, for a couple reasons one Vincent is a friend and part of CCC, two he deserved it for all hes has done for us, three to help a friend feel better after this issue came up, but rest assured this was in the plans far before this issue.

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 12:32 AM
One more thing. Honesty. You ARE in the business for the money.

I can't tell you the difficult times I've had with the business, stress levels so high I'd like to jump off a bridge sometimes. Supplier debt, taxation, employee issues, insanely long days, parts shortages, customers yelling at me because of customs charges,

I am in business for 1) money (duh) and 2) for the love of saving the vehicles and helping people. If this job didn't pay I'd be working on my own Cadillacs just for a hobby. I don't love these cars so much that I'll work on customers' cars for free. I have to eat and keep a roof over my head, food for the dogs, fuel in the tank. If I did this just for the love of Cadillacs I'd have to question my own sanity. Something I already do on occasion.

As the saying goes. "I work for money, not for fun. The bill is due when the job is done."

Also, Tim, if you've worked on as many Cadillacs as I have, you will not have a 100% satisfaction rate. The bottom line is, there will always be people who are impossible to deal with or satisfy, no matter how hard you try to please them. Something believable would be 95%. I have about 3-5 customers out of 100 who are less than satisfied. I had one customer yell at me because I wouldn't pick him up at 10:00pm from the hotel because of a severe blizzard. I could not see 10 feet in front of my truck and it was a 30 mile drive. I asked him to wait until morning to head home, for the safety of us both. The next morning he was cheerful and in a good mood and we were both alive and safe (and so was my truck).

I will gladly advertise that I have 3-5 customers out of 100 who are less than satisfied. Why? Because if future customers cannot understand there are people like that in this world, they're likely one of the 3-5% of the population I want nothing to do with. Decency and respect, understanding, etc. is a 2-way street for customer and service professional alike. As mechanics, we have an obligation to do our best for the customers and their cars.

So Vincent, Tim, can you make a deal and work this out? Tim, I'd love to continue to provide you with the cylinder head stud kit (although some wording on your website will need to be changed), and I'd love to send some work your way when I can.

If I've upset anyone I do apologize, I just want a good outcome for both of you and for no blame to be passed. Mistakes happen, castings are occasionally weak in spots, forget the cause, get it fixed, and put this behind you both.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 01:43 AM
I just sent you two emails because the nice one you sent me Jake, here is the second one I just sent:
Man Jake'



I go from hearing nice words here on my email from you and while I am writing you back your telling me off on the forum'

Don't know what to make of it, I am your customer a very important one, a long term one' not just a one time buyer.

And what needs to be changed on the site? You do remember Vincent was in charge of the site.

I have not seen anything out of context but I think I will go there now and navigate it to see what your talking about?



Please tell me what needs to be changed? So I will be aware of it as well, or has he done something since all this

childish stuff is going on.



You know what I meant about satisfaction? Of course a time or two the client was not happy but when I became aware of it

or just knew it, I did something to make that client happy, another reason I don't have such a bad rep is I am very picky who

I do work for, I do not own an open to the public shop, I don't need to be because of our reputation, no walk ins we are by appointment only

and you have to meet us personally before we will work on just any car. We are always booked at least a year ahead and

occassionally juggle the schedule for one or two people who are in real need of us.



I make my real money on personal restorations that we auction in Vegas, our work sells itself.



Jake, I would like to continue doing business with you no doubt' this would be important for us both, but this issue that Vincent has it is not your business

it is between him and me, I offered him everthing to repair it, to paint, to do the high performance package.

You need to stop making me feel as if I did him wrong, you and me will be working together for a long time once Vincent's car is fixed you wont ever hear from him

again, he will never be buying studs again, but me I will allways know you and we will always be working together and always be buying studs.



So you and me need to be friends and let Vincent and myself work things out that is his call.

I have done all I can do, I should not have to be telling the whole world what I told him over and over.



I am going to be calling you, so take care for now, Tim



PS. I do love working with Caddy's the trick to making it fun is knowing more then just mechanics

like being a master auto painter and air brush artist, which I have been all my life it is my hobby and passion.

It was my first career before becoming an engineer. Just so you know what I wrote on the forum is straight up "TRUE"

89falcon
06-09-11, 03:13 AM
Tim,
Just a little input from a simple Cadi owner....I've got no dog in this race....

But:
-I read your email, and it sounded to me like you said "Vince, bring it in, and we can save you a little money by reusing some of your gaskets"....NOT "Hey Vince, give me a couple days to get a plan together to fix this....I will make it right"
-Nothing makes me grab my wallet more than when someone tells me they run a "Christian business".....they usually tell that because they haven't shown me that.
-If you were offering Vince the world...why did he turn it down? Maybe his perception of the "offer" and yours are two very different things!

Do we just have a failure to communicate?

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 07:54 AM
There's more to this story than what is being heard here. I don't like to hear statements that contradict each other. Tim the following is taken directly off your website from two different pages.


Carroll Custom Cadillac, Machines and installs new threads in every block we rebuild or repair head gaskets.
There a lot of companies that claim to have something better and down talk what has been proven to work.
We use the "Time Sert" inserts because they are the only method we have had zero failure, and the only method approved by General Motors! For aluminum blocks.
the Northstar motor cannot be repaired without repairing the block "no exceptions!" Although the Northstar is a masterpiece of engineering the aluminum threads cannot contain the torque these engines have and will eventually have to be replaced using a steel thread insert.


We are proud to offer this repair for your Northstar Engine, As we did old school in our rods we trust these studs for all our Northstar's.

We offer Time Sert, first and second repair serts and stand behind them with confidence, however Performance Studs allow us to give a longer warranty with an absolute permanent repair.

The difference is in the price of the repair, due to the cost difference in the parts there is a increase in the cost of 325.00

we add to the cost listed in the Repair cost page.

If Performance Studs is what you would like to have installed in your engine, then it would be our pleasure to accommodate you and install at a reasonable cost.

Request these Studs when placing your repair order, and we'll put together a price specially for your needs.


As you can see in this drawing' once the studs have been permanently machined into the block, the nuts can be torqued time and time again, allowing for other repairs without the risk of damaging the block threads.

With the Time Sert, or the Norm's Sert, this is a permanent repair unless the heads have to be removed for other reasons such as rod, or rings replacement, although we have removed and retorque this repair it is not wise to continue this practice as the retorquing more then twice will have a negative effect on the serts.

With the Studs' there is no torque to yield factor as with the original head bolts allowing for multiple reuse.


The issues with these statements is that they are very misleading. Most forum members would agree.

I have thought very long and hard about limiting the use of the studs only to repair shops that agree to sign an agreement stating they will never use anything but my studs in any Northstar they repair from that point forward, and that all VIN's be recorded and sent to us for permanent record. This will eliminate a whole mess of issues and allow myself to stand behind my product better.

Tim I would like this page advertising my patent-pending studs to be temporarily removed from your website effective immediately. I thank you for your co-operation in this matter. I will type something up and have it to you within 1 week for your review.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 10:24 AM
Wow' I had no idea, I am the one who talked about your studs being the more permanent repair, but not the writer, Jake please do send me the write up, and I will get all this corrected asap.
I think selling only to repair shops is a great idea and maybe I would not be suffering from this issue, you mention last night there was those who you tried and tried to please that just would not
be satisfied, well, I guess I now know what you mean. LOL
Thanks Jake.

To 89falcon,

I don't know you and you do not know me, your stepping in on an area you know nothing about' so maybe you should keep all your unknown comments to your self, your imput is not needed or
helpful any anyway way whatsoever.
But since you brought it up' when Vincent an I, were discussing this issue we were diuscussing how I could afford it and when I could get it done, so explaining the savings was a plus for "ME" not Vincent.
See' you dont know what is being said or written, how would you treat your "friend" who was going to do a 6thousand dollar paint job on your car "FOR FREE" because of your friendship and work you do in his club? Well, why dont any of you comment on that? Well, I was doing a paint job, I was going to do the full blown high performance package!!!!!
Comment on all I was doing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No one even seems to see this!!!!! DU! what is so blinding about black and white letters written on this page? Is it possible you really cannot see how much Vincent was getting? For nothing!!!!!!!
He is the one who started this, I offered my all and he threw it all away, I don't know why?
You need to open your eyes read and reread until you can comprehend that Tim Carroll, owner of Carroll Custom Cadillac, was taking care of it all and giving more then he should not only to make up for it but had all this in the plans "FAR" before this issue arose!

I swear! If you have to read this 50 times, I hope the next comment is a comprehension of the actual meaning of the text written.
I am not the bad guy here, I have done nothing wrong' zero, zilch!

As far as Jakes comments on the sites wording, well, guess what Vincent is the last sites editor! Go figure.
Of course he is no longer able to access this site and all of the site will be examined and corrected.

Tim

vincentm
06-09-11, 11:40 AM
As far as Jakes comments on the sites wording, well, guess what Vincent is the last sites editor! Go figure.
Of course he is no longer able to access this site and all of the site will be examined and corrected.

Tim

Funny, my email address@carrollcustomcadillac.com, has been removed, thank goodness i work in IT and since being setup with this account, i've established a email sync account on my android phone, and still have the emails. So here it goes. As for my work on the site including the page advertising the studs, all i did was correct bad spelling, and on the repair pages, restructure them so that its more easy on the eyes (resized images, centered them along with text, etc.)


What you failed to post was this email sent to me after i said i want the block replaced but dont want to be charged, here it goes, enjoy:


To Vincent@carrollcustomcadillac.com
6/7/2011 7:36AM
Re:
Vincent,

What I am about to tell you may be the most important imfornation, you need to completely understand,
do not take it wrong or it will sever all ties between us.

I never told you a crack could be permantently repaired with a sealant,

originally I was told it was some type of microscopic pin hole and I told you something what i was told, could be repaired that way and last for an extremely long time
you did not understand waht i said.

Also' I want you to list to what I am going to tell you very carefully' do not miss a workd
you just mentioned that you don't want to be charged anything?Do you think that i can affored to just that kind of work for nothing? It sounds to me as if your trying to blame mefor taking your engine apart? I had no way to test your engine for this crack because you gave it to me in an untestable state, now i am a nice guy and i want to help, but it is extremely obvious on your email that you may be pointing the finger at me and want me to do it for absolutely nothing.

I offered to "GIVE" you a excellent block, if i did not like I would of cut you off the minute you took it to another mechanic, even if I was to blame "which i am not" taking to be evaluated by another shop voided all warranty's, read the repair cost page under rebuilds.
When i started this believe me i had to make sure that i was safe from people who would take advantage of me and my liley hood. When someone take advantage of me they also take from my family and i cannot let that happen.
Bro! I am not rich When my youngest son pass away by suicide I lost everything and i cost my family everything. I am not willing to ever let that happen again.
I was very careful to write our expressed warranty which is written as: any and all mechanical diagnostic evaluations are to be peformed by C.C.C failure to follow these expressed rules will result in void of said warranty.

Now i am willing to help you out if i was not we would not be having this conversation, i offered you the block at no cost i would do this for alot less then anyone else becaused i felt we were kind of friends. I
also offered to paint your car to repesent our company, which would normally cost about 6K. I believe i wnt above and beyond for you and would of continued

At this point you need to rethink everything that is going on do you me to conintue helping you or do you want to cut off all ties with me? When you respond to this email, be very careful in choosing your words, any sarcasm or threats will sever our relationship immediately I am very sorry this is happening to you, i wanted to do this work for you but you tempted it on your own, leaving it untestable, no one is to blame, not even you' this is life and things happen.

If your response is kind and you would like for me to help you so it won't cost an arm and a leg i will still be here for you. As far as when i can do it will have to be after i get caught uyp and when my shop is built and i have a place to do it So between now and then i recommend you use the sealer, nothing bad is going to happen However if your response is not good then you may not want to respond at all

your present friend, Tim


Here's the deal, i just paid $4,343 and im taking the bus to work, ive no money, because paying you for this work has left me broke. and you still want to charge me to fix the issue, i dont want a paint job, i dont want it to be high performance, I just want this car running like it should. You never said you'd paint the car for free until now, in this post of yours i just quoted. Now let's adress the issue at hand.

The oil change at 500miles was done at shafer motor company in Kennewick WA for reasons i will give.

1. Since may 15th (you picked up the vehicle on the 4th), i moved to an apartment complex in Kennewick, and was moving from my house in Pasco. in this complex i've no garage, nor did i have anywhere to keep my jackstands, etc, so upon my move out from pasco, i sold my tools, (1. i needed the money, 2. i was being hurried by the landlord at the time to be out by the 15th, not your fault)

2. I'm not going to drive 4 hours to Vancouver WA to have an oil change done and it was a logical step for me to have it done where i originally purchased the vehicle.

3. I don't have the time, i work in the IT dept for an extremely busy hospital here in Richland, we're are in the middle of million dollar project converting it over to a new EMR, i'm tied to my blackberry day in and day out (i carry two cell phones) for communications which may affect my role in this project, plus i do so because i like to reassure my colleagues and management that i can be relied upon to respond to communicatons, no matter what the time of day or night.

4. If i voided the warranty by doing so then i recommend you set up a deal with a shop locally here so that i can keep from doing so.

Now as for the actual crack, you stated, and i quote


"This could be caused by a couple of things one if it ever slightly froze and not knowing started it and it warmed up causing the crack "which is the most likely cause"


This is the straw that broke the camel's back.

1. Last cold spell here in SE Washington was in November and it got to -2f, at the time i was on my first attempt at tackling this job myself, the car was in my shop at my house in pasco (where you retrieved it), on jack stands, but wasn't fully drained, plus i had two heaters in the shop, my friend Dave can vouch for me.

2. if you look at my profile on this site you'll see i started a thread in Janurary after i threw in the towel, put the car back together and was experiencing electrical issue, that is when i found that i had a loose ground connection on my alternator, i then tightened it but it still wouldn't start, i then had my neighbor at the time take me to the autozone on court st in Pasco to have my battery tested, it failed, i bought a new one and installed it, it didn't start still.

I then had it towed down the street to Bill McCurley GM in the Pasco Autoplex and paid $108 to have the vehicle inspected, they discovered that my battery bolt for the positive terminal was stripped and they replaced it, along with that they fixed a vacuum line and the airflow sensor which i had broke during my attempt. they also had it inspected and noted nothing about a crack, ive the invoice. Now i'm not going to name any names but speaking with Bill Mccurley yesterday they stated:

" Although we did not make not of a crack, we also did not have cause to look for one. Our conversation regarding the cause of the crack was purely hypothetical based on the repair procedure & experience."

In Febuary i had all the brakes and done wheni received my income tax return at Firestone in Pasco. I also had the vehicle fully inspected, along with a coolant flush, and a fuel system flush, only thing they noted was that my windshield washer pump has malfunctioned, ive that invoice as well.

I've also the threatening voicemail you left me yesterday, and i can pull it from my phone, convert it to WMA and upload to a host to have everyone here listen.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:07 PM
Just remember all who read this, the email carrollcadillac@live.com is the email that goes with the site and was used by Vincent, to run the site.
So basically all these emails I am reading are a fabrication posted by Vincent for Vincent.
I have taken away all his access to this email at this point and he will no longer be able to access it or fabricate any more lies.

Your a very bad person Vincent, it is pure evil. Your anger has consumed you my friend and your lies has found you out' I am glad I have found out who you really are before I allowed you to get more involved with my club, only God knows the truth.

You are a liar and a thief, I now will retract all my offers to help you in anyway, you broke our friendship to a permanent end.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:18 PM
Now I know why it you did not reply to my phone calls and have not contacted me, I can remember you telling me how you could take someone down because of your IT work, and you were serious about it.
Oh well' you have prooved only one thing never trust anyone, I had faith in you and you let me down

carrollcadillac@is the administrators email of which you were so how did you feel inside when you were writing this stuff knowing you were going to post it, did it feel dark inside, did it make you feel like you were a man? Did the feeling of trying to destroy anothers reputatation give you joy?

To you all! Vincent has gone out of his way to hurt a friend out of his anger, and yes it hurts my heart so for that Vincent I give you credit, you have succeeded in hurting me, I hope this brings whatever pleasure you get from it.

I thank you for helping me to be more careful in choosing my friends.

Vincent I am reading this stuff you have wrote amazing you are truly one of the best.

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 12:22 PM
If taking a car to another shop for a simple diagnosis voids warranty, that is pathetic. An engine I sold a guy once had developed a rod knock. I sent him to a Cadillac dealership in Scottsdale for a diagnosis and got the answer I needed. I made the appointment and I called with my VISA and paid the bill. A replacement engine was sent to him at half price even though he did something that normally would void all warranty. Overheated the engine during the cam/lifter-break-in period and kept it running, called me and asked why it was overheating. Air lock was the answer. Long story but with brand new parts and bearings oil temp is very critical, and when wear starts it does not stop.

I'm saying this to explain something. A shop should work with other shops- work together to help the customer. If oil changes or a leak inspection at a different garage voids warranty, that's pathetic. Now if they had played around inside the engine (which has not happened that I am aware of), I could fully understand Tim Carroll not honoring warranty from that point on. But for Vincent to drive 250 miles to have a leak diagnosed? That'd be rediculous.

FWIW, I put special marks in places nobody would know to tell if someone has been monkeying around with the internals of an engine I've built. Many shops do this. Tim probably does too-

Now from Tim's standpoint, if the cooling system was not together, the system could not be pressure tested. Understandable. The block was upside down and had been washed. A crack should be spotted. Sometimes it can be a hairline crack that can barely be seen.

Very simple question here Vincent: Was there an external coolant leak before you began the repair job on your ETC? Did you see any spots of coolant on the garage floor, in the general area where the crack was? Be honest- I'm not trying to take anyone's side- just trying to figure out what happened-

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:24 PM
Also that phone call you are talking about also states I was going to do all this for you at no cost to you so yeah go ahead prove to everyone that what I said was true and remember when you all hear it I was very upset finding out that all these lies were going on behind my back. So yes you will hear me being upset I had all the right to be, my friend had just stabbed me in the back, and that was a very painful experience.

vincentm
06-09-11, 12:25 PM
The emails I posted from you to me aren't a fabrication, they're still on my android phone, I can show them to anyone. Its just a matter of copying and pasting what was sent to me, I've evidence that the crack in my block wasn't in existence before I turned the vehicle over to you, as for it being in an untestable state,

1. I'm told by a few people that's there is more than one way to skin a cat. And that it could've been pressure tested at a machine shop by dunking the block. Did you not take my parts to a machine shop?

2. If you're a "master mechanic" then how did a crack that's an inch and a quarter long get missed? The picture speaks foritself even when I sent you the picture of the crack you stated '' I see it vincent" ( ill post that email as well)

3. I bought the vehicle with 126k miles, and when I turned it over to you it had 133k if there was a crack. Wouldn't I have broken down somewhere during or be evident?

As for me being "evil" that's a bit of an unfair judegement. Doesn't it say in the bible "thou shall not judge"?

As for the whole christian thing I could care less, I'm atheist, and always have been I've no reason to believe in a god(s) but that has no bearing on this discussion at all and can be taken elese where if one chooses to do so
-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

vincentm
06-09-11, 12:29 PM
You are a liar and a thief, I now will retract all my offers to help you in anyway, you broke our friendship to a permanent end.

How am I a thief when I have already paid you entirely off? I've all the receipts! And yet you're still wantjng to charge me to fix this issue?

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:31 PM
Jake,
I cannot believe what Iam seeing and I never seen anything I inspected the block very carefully before and after, I drove the car I had in and out of the shop,
there were never any leaks on my floor, I let it sit and run for at least 45min in one spot, why? because of testing it to make sure the head gaskets were done right I always do this, I would of never sent him home with an issue that I would have to do again.

i am not aware of the cause it makes no sence to me, but if replacing the block was what I had to do then it was OK, the only thing that I knew would suck for Vincent was the time of being without his car again.

vincentm
06-09-11, 12:31 PM
If taking a car to another shop for a simple diagnosis voids warranty, that is pathetic. An engine I sold a guy once had developed a rod knock. I sent him to a Cadillac dealership in Scottsdale for a diagnosis and got the answer I needed. I made the appointment and I called with my VISA and paid the bill. A replacement engine was sent to him at half price even though he did something that normally would void all warranty. Overheated the engine during the cam/lifter-break-in period and kept it running, called me and asked why it was overheating. Air lock was the answer. Long story but with brand new parts and bearings oil temp is very critical, and when wear starts it does not stop.

I'm saying this to explain something. A shop should work with other shops- work together to help the customer. If oil changes or a leak inspection at a different garage voids warranty, that's pathetic. Now if they had played around inside the engine (which has not happened that I am aware of), I could fully understand Tim Carroll not honoring warranty from that point on. But for Vincent to drive 250 miles to have a leak diagnosed? That'd be rediculous.

FWIW, I put special marks in places nobody would know to tell if someone has been monkeying around with the internals of an engine I've built. Many shops do this. Tim probably does too-

Now from Tim's standpoint, if the cooling system was not together, the system could not be pressure tested. Understandable. The block was upside down and had been washed. A crack should be spotted. Sometimes it can be a hairline crack that can barely be seen.

Very simple question here Vincent: Was there an external coolant leak before you began the repair job on your ETC? Did you see any spots of coolant on the garage floor, in the general area where the crack was? Be honest- I'm not trying to take anyone's side- just trying to figure out what happened-

No coolant leaks, only thing leaking was oil and even then it was the commen weep, from the seals, the service invoices from Bill Mccurley and Firestone don't make any note of an external leak of coolant.

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:33 PM
Vincent, no I waxs not "STILL" wanting to charge you, even my phone call proves that! I even told you I was still going to go through with our plans and do the custom paint which you knew long before this issue we were doing for you cause of your work for me and because of being friends.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:34 PM
The thief thing is stealing a mans friendship then dragging his name through the mud, goes hand in hand with lying.

vincentm
06-09-11, 12:39 PM
Vincent, no I waxs not "STILL" wanting to charge you, even my phone call proves that! I even told you I was still going to go through with our plans and do the custom paint which you knew long before this issue we were doing for you cause of your work for me and because of being friends.
You didn't not specifically state there was no charge the quote I received from you yesterday on an engine swap was forwarded to jake, even he saw that there was still going to be a charge..

-------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my Northstar powered phone

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 12:41 PM
Tim may I make a suggestion? If I build an engine up for Vincent would you kindly install it for him at no charge? The payment and cost of the engine will be between me and Vincent and I want the old cracked engine, back, complete, and untouched from present condition.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:42 PM
Yeah well, when the email that is sending the emails is completely in your control and it is yours to admistrate the site I wonder how it can come from its to yours DU!
You sent yourself these emails, but you wont be able to now will you. I want you to post my phone message so everyone will see what I said is true.

This is where you will be found out Vincent!
Do it! Post it then the truth will be let out, do it now!

The word Athiest is a second word for complete ignorance, remember that when you stand before GOD!

vincentm
06-09-11, 12:43 PM
The thief thing is stealing a mans friendship then dragging his name through the mud, goes hand in hand with lying.

Dishonest moving of the goal posts in your favor. I've no reason to lie, I've still all my emails from vincent@carrollcustomcadillac.com, again its just a matter of copying and pasting.. I'm not using my experience and skills in the IT industry to get over via lies and deceit...I just know how to save stuff, emails being damn sure one of em..

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 12:46 PM
Enough. Tim. Cool down and answer my question please. Vincent, please await Tim's response. I am willing to help you both out of a bit of a bind but no more bullshit or knives thrown.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:48 PM
Well, Jake,
I think I could do that, but I think that Vincent should first post my upset phone message so everyone can hear the truth.
Once you know the truth that I was doing this for no cost to him then I would be willing to make a truce with him and bring a end to this war.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:49 PM
Even if only you heard it I would be OK with that.

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 12:50 PM
Sounds fair to me.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 12:53 PM
Well Vincent,

You heard Jake,
Want to end this war I would do this if it all came to an end, and if our friendship could be rebuilt who knows?
maybe I would still do all we planned.

RippyPartsDept
06-09-11, 12:56 PM
make a truce with him and bring a end to this war.

PLEASE DO THIS - i know it takes two to tango in this situation, but this whole situation is ridiculous

^ the above message is directed at both vincent and tim

vincentm
06-09-11, 01:08 PM
Yeah well, when the email that is sending the emails is completely in your control and it is yours to admistrate the site I wonder how it can come from its to yours DU!


Its called an email application such as outlook, thunderbird, etc in this case the android operating system comes with two, one being strictly for gmail emails, and the other being called "email" can be setup to have one map an account to it so that they receive their message on the go, which is what I've done.



You sent yourself these emails, but you wont be able to now will you. I want you to post my phone message so everyone will see what I said is true. Again I didn't senf them to myself I setup up the client so that I can receive them on the go ask anyone, you yourself have this app on your HTC EVO android phone.. you can receive your emails on the go, its called technology. As for the voicemail I can do so, might take some time, but I can do so.


This is where you will be found out Vincent!
Do it! Post it then the truth will be let out, do it now! in due time.


The word Athiest is a second word for complete ignorance, remember that when you stand before GOD!
Wow... anyone else seeing this? Remind me when its time to breathe, Apparently I'm completely ignorant..


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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 01:16 PM
remember Jake,
When I made the call I had just found out that I was being down talked by my friend of who I cared about, so yes I was angry but you will hear that there was no
charge for this and I was doing and the paint job, that is the truth in my message.

This is rediculous and if Vincent wants to end this war between us then I will as well, then yes I will do this with you and get this motor back to you.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 01:22 PM
Vincent did you hear Jakes offer?

Do you want to make a truce? of course I was upset but in the message I still told you about our plans we had made to do all of the work icluding the paint job.

I will do the work for no cost, Jake will supply the engine, are you hearing this? Then he will get the old one back.

If you want to call a truce, I am up for it cause this is rediculous I am tired of fighting.

vincentm
06-09-11, 01:45 PM
Truce, When the crack was discovered i immediately wanted one of Jake's engines as the replacement, sorry but on his site, they just look damn sexy :nana3:

As for getting the vehicle to you, i can discuss with my friend Dave on getting it over there,but can't guarantee it, this will have to be done on a weekend. I've only 40+ hours of PTO but don't want to use them because:

1. I'm in the middle of a huge project and can't afford to take any days off during the week.

2. In case of family emergency i can use that time

As of this post i just locked myself out the locked storage room here at work where i was building PC's for this project im working on and my phone is in there, so if Jake or Tim has just called (heard my phone going off) thats why i didn't answer.

Is there a blonde moment smilie on this site here lol?

I'd also like to apologize to Cadillac Forums and the moderators here in advance for this drama, and having it played out here. This community is thee best and has helped me so much in my en devour on being an owner of a fine looking Cadillac, i love my car to death, hell id marry it if i could. So again, sorry CF and CF staff.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 02:00 PM
Truce!

I likewise, will and want to apologize for this, it has been quite the drama, probably the most payed out one I have ever seen and I was a part of it, go figure'

Vincent, I am sorry all this happened and wish I could turn back the clock and make it all go away but unfortunately it can't be done so now we must move forward,
Jake, thank you for your help, not too many people would have done that' your a good man, I look forward to a long relationship with you for years to come, I have not had the time just yet to change the site but as soon as I am done here I will.

Vincent, I did appreciate all you were doing for the club and CCC, you were awesome and I told everyone what a fantastic job you were doing and that finally I had someone as good as you were. When all this happened I felt like crap and loosing you in the club really sucked "bad".
I apologize for all this and I want to rebuild our friendship if your up for.
Yes I will do this and make you happy again, like you were when you got it back and it ran so good, it made me feel great knowing you were so happy, I retract all the things I said out of anger. I wish I had better control of getting upset, I can say this that after this I think I will.

I wont wait til the new shop is standing and will juggle the scheduled jobs to get you in here asap, OK?

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 02:01 PM
Sometimes it IS best to get everything out in the open. Those who don't want to see the progress or outcome, just stay off this thread. If a resolution is achieved I think I speak for all CF members, that is what we all want. When you're put in the eyes of the public you begin to think from other people's views.

Tim you are a talented man, no doubt. Vince, I believe you are a good man and want nothing more than what you deserve- a good working ETC again. You can both make this happen.

vincentm
06-09-11, 02:11 PM
Truce!

I likewise, will and want to apologize for this, it has been quite the drama, probably the most payed out one I have ever seen and I was a part of it, go figure'

Vincent, I am sorry all this happened and wish I could turn back the clock and make it all go away but unfortunately it can't be done so now we must move forward,
Jake, thank you for your help, not too many people would have done that' your a good man, I look forward to a long relationship with you for years to come, I have not had the time just yet to change the site but as soon as I am done here I will.

Vincent, I did appreciate all you were doing for the club and CCC, you were awesome and I told everyone what a fantastic job you were doing and that finally I had someone as good as you were. When all this happened I felt like crap and loosing you in the club really sucked "bad".
I apologize for all this and I want to rebuild our friendship if your up for.
Yes I will do this and make you happy again, like you were when you got it back and it ran so good, it made me feel great knowing you were so happy, I retract all the things I said out of anger. I wish I had better control of getting upset, I can say this that after this I think I will.

I wont wait til the new shop is standing and will juggle the scheduled jobs to get you in here asap, OK?

We're all human, that's what sets us at the top of the food chain (unless one is stranded from broken HG's in the middle of the savanna in E. Africa). I accept your apology and never meant to down talk you, i've boasted on this site about your work months back when i first found out about your shop and thought "son of a ****, out off all the places in the U.S here's a true Cadillac repair shop, and its in my backyard" i immediately knew i had to have work done there. By the way, Vancouver WA is an awesome town i loved the train ride there, i miss the greenery (no not that kind y'all) of Western WA, i miss Seattle lol.

Thank you Jake for helping in all this, thank you 89falcon for offering a block, you two are genuine people, you hear about all the bad in this world and its discouraging, then you come across people such as yourselves and it reminds that yes, there is some good people on this cursed rock we call Earth.

Carroll Cadillac
06-09-11, 02:33 PM
Very well put bro,

I feel like working now' LOL My morning has sucked but now it feels better, yes thank you all for caring.

johnny kannapo
06-09-11, 03:34 PM
Here are some crack pictures I robbed off google images

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1200/nstarr.jpg

http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/misc%20tech/6f94fd41.jpg

Submariner409
06-09-11, 05:49 PM
Hmmmmmm......two different engine years................The first crack is in the lower halfcase and the second is in the cylinder block proper.

Most curious.........and, if I'm not mistaken the first one is also in the side of an oil return drain from the head. EDIT: I now see where the crack also runs down and across the motor mount bracket bolt boss.

..............which means that neither crack is the result of a tight stud, bolt, or excessive force.....and why does the second crack run across just above the CKP's?

CCC.........build a 350 - 375 hp pump gas 2000+ roller follower Northstar for the FWD kids. Driveable, 3.71 final drive tune. 6,750 redline, BUT no heavy valve springs.

....................and another edit: That first engine picture IS NOT a FWD transverse engine mount - that's either a kit car or sand rail setup. False information.

97EldoCoupe
06-09-11, 06:21 PM
Jim- that second image- the one I had come from Minneapolis was cracked just like that only a bit lower, across all oil drainback passages (not at all into the coolant jackets).

I wish I knew for sure what was causing this. I need a good hydraulic press and some old, unusable, but not cracked blocks. I have a rough idea.

Carroll Cadillac
06-10-11, 01:55 AM
Hey guys'

Monday I am starting a high performance on "of all cars" a '04 SRX
I have been studying a new header design with Ed, (Headers By "Ed")
He has the SRX and we are in the proccess of pipe sizing. I am going to be doing a full blown story
on the website, or should I say Vincent will be doing the story, yes' Vincent will once again be the editor of CCC,
Vincent and myself are back on track, and our friendship is stronger then ever. I look forward to working together for a long time to come, thanks Jake.
Anyhow, this SRX will have quite the HP, I will update it soon as we proceed should be very interesting, no doubt.
Of course we will be doing alot more then headers, there will be no limit to what were doing on it, be sure to check it out at: http://carrollcustomcadillac.com Just
look for the '04 SRX page.

I read where you said 350-375Hp well, we are going to get as much as humanly possible. should be lots of fun.

98eldo32v
06-10-11, 03:58 AM
Here are some crack pictures I robbed off google images

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1200/nstarr.jpg

http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz183/billytheshoe/misc%20tech/6f94fd41.jpg

The first picture with the engine mounted to the transmission. Notice the crack is on the bolt whole where the bracket connects to the motor mount.

Is it possible that weak or worn motor mounts/ excessive movement of the engine is stressing the bolt and taking it's toll at the attachment point?

97EldoCoupe
06-10-11, 07:39 AM
Or a bolt that bottomed out and wrenchman continued to tighten, I would say there's a high possibility of that Ron.

98eldo32v
06-10-11, 11:43 AM
Or a bolt that bottomed out and wrenchman continued to tighten, I would say there's a high possibility of that Ron.

A bolt that bottomed out?! You mean a bolt that really didn't belong in THAT hole?! That would be a no-no.

The second picture, the one with the crankshaft postion sensors. What mounts in that threaded hole to the left?

97EldoCoupe
06-10-11, 02:25 PM
Depending on which hole you're talking about- an oil cooler line/hose or the oil dipstick (not threaded).

Submariner409
06-10-11, 02:44 PM
Depending on which hole you're talking about- an oil cooler line/hose or the oil dipstick (not threaded).

He's talking about the hole in the boss by the left yellow arrow. The right lower oil filter adapter bolt ??? Motor mount bracket bolt ???

It's all in Post #220.

In the first picture you can see the two CKP mounting ears behind the motor mount bracket and shows the dipstick hole. The second has only CKP holes.

Jake, take a hard look at that first engine picture. That's NOT a FWD Northstar setup - it's a sand rail or kit car setup. ALL crack bets are off.

Submariner409
06-10-11, 02:52 PM
Hey guys'

Monday I am starting a high performance on "of all cars" a '04 SRX I read where you said 350-375Hp well, we are going to get as much as humanly possible. should be lots of fun.

This thread is primarily occupied by the FWD 4.6 Northstar Eldorado, Deville, and Seville crowd. SRX bears no resemblance to these cars, so SRX engine work is not germane to this thread.

...............and take another look at those engine pictures - the first is not what you think it is: it's NOT a FWD Northstar any more.

RippyPartsDept
06-10-11, 03:35 PM
yeah, i was wondering about that black cradle/frame that the engine was bolted to

vincentm
06-11-11, 06:20 PM
Stored my baby in a rented garage/shed here at my apartment complex until I can get it back on the road, starting to get sunny and hot here last thing I need is my leather to start cracking lol.

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

00 Deville
06-11-11, 07:37 PM
Stored my baby in a rented garage/shed here at my apartment complex until I can get it back on the road

Why aren't you driving it Vince.... that crack is small.

vincentm
06-11-11, 08:03 PM
Why aren't you driving it Vince.... that crack is small.

Eh, no

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

89falcon
06-11-11, 09:44 PM
Eh, no

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone


Why not? It's not like you'll crack the block.......what damage are you afraid of?

Heck, if nothing else, drain it....grind the crack a little to get some adhesion and epoxy (JB Weld) the heck out of it.....then drive it like you stole it!!!

BTW, You or Jake still need the block? Let me know.

Destroyer
06-11-11, 09:51 PM
The word Athiest is a second word for complete ignorance, remember that when you stand before GOD!We just took a turn down "Jerry Springer Alley". You never should have posted a word here. You just lost any "Athiest" that would have bought a car from your crappy stealership. It's in writing bro, you cant take it back. Luckily for you, there are more idiots like you than me out there.

Carroll Cadillac
06-12-11, 12:59 AM
Hey Vincent,
I wonder how long we will see stuff like this? To all you who read this argument between two friends who had a falling out' "we are still friends" very good ones so please don't takes sides
cause were on the same side. Sometimes you say things you dont mean when your hurt and upset. We have both apologized for what we posted here, so please no reason to make insulting comments, all is good! we are moving forward, it is ok for everyone to go back to Cadillac discussions their more fun.
Also, carrollcadillac, is an email for a Cadillac Club "Not a dealership!

Carroll Cadillac
06-12-11, 01:11 AM
To submariner409,

My comment about the SRX was a reply to an individual asking about me doing a performance mod on a 4.6 as for this thread? I an the mechanic involved on this thread on which you are commenting on. Thanks for the comment, makes me feel at home with a sarcasim free forum.

Carroll Cadillac
06-12-11, 01:21 AM
Almost forgot that individual was you'
I am not so hot on the funky SRX myself, I have no idea why anyone would want us to do it. But I just build them whoever wants one gets one.
I own Seville's, Deville's and the Eldorado, my cars of choice.

johnny kannapo
06-12-11, 07:19 AM
yeah, i was wondering about that black cradle/frame that the engine was bolted to I find alot of good threads with Fiero/N* conversions. Fiero forums that have very involved engine builds/tuning with great pics.

Submariner409
06-12-11, 09:17 AM
To submariner409, My comment about the SRX was a reply to an individual asking about me doing a performance mod on a 4.6 as for this thread? I an the mechanic involved on this thread on which you are commenting on. Thanks for the comment, makes me feel at home with a sarcasim free forum.

The SRX comment was not meant as sarcasm: It is fact. There are 20-30 FWD Northstar 4.6 owners in here, frequently, who are always looking for reliable, worthwhile engine upgrades in order to gain a bit of power. So far, for this crowd, that has not happened. We can all stud and rebuild these engines - it's just that the tight PCM controls don't allow radical fuel/air/exhaust departures from the factory "tune". You crack that and you'll be in business. I, too, am a mechanic who builds engines and plays with cars for fun and profit. We're in the same boat. Cruise through my 2 albums up in the "Community" tab to see if I have some idea of what I'm talking about.............

For some reason, 99.9% of the post-2004 Northstar drivers, particularly the RWD drivers, stay up in the top ^^^ 8 or 10 Forums and this one has pretty much been populated by FWD owners.

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 10:17 AM
I disagree.....

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

i was thinking of having my block that was cracked welded i found one place in Cleveland that did this a few times with sucess how ever they where honest and told me that out of 6 jobs for dealership only 2 came back sucesfull i was not willing to take that chance even though they where only going to charge me back yard mechanic prices to do it but it was not worth the gamble with those ods

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:11 PM
I have thought very long and hard about limiting the use of the studs only to repair shops that agree to sign an agreement stating they will never use anything but my studs in any Northstar they repair from that point forward, and that all VIN's be recorded and sent to us for permanent record. This will eliminate a whole mess of issues and allow myself to stand behind my product better.

.

Hey jake i wanted to bring something up to you not trying to hijack this thread but a few months ago i sent you a PM guess maybe you didn't get it i had posted on a thread and a few memebrs said they thought it was a good idea
but never heard back from you
and now since you think its a good idea to record the vin and keep in your records i wanted to bring this up again
what do you think about producing or having a plate made that would be rivvted on or placed somewhere under the hood saying this vehicle has NorthStar Performance Sure Grip Stud kit used on Head Gasktet job or something like that along those lines
might be a good plus side to anyone who might want to one day sell there caddy and if anyone knows about the studs they will know that they would be getting one of the best head jobs around with them
in the car they buy or
even just a bragging point for those who are smart enough to do this
figured id throw this in here

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:33 PM
I offered to "GIVE" you a excellent block, if i did not like I would of cut you off the minute you took it to another mechanic, even if I was to blame "which i am not" taking to be evaluated by another shop voided all warranty's, read the repair cost page under rebuilds.
When i started this believe me i had to make sure that i was safe from people who would take advantage of me and my liley hood. When someone take advantage of me they also take from my family and i cannot let that happen.
Bro! I am not rich When my youngest son pass away by suicide I lost everything and i cost my family everything. I am not willing to ever let that happen again.
I was very careful to write our expressed warranty which is written as: any and all mechanical diagnostic evaluations are to be peformed by C.C.C failure to follow these expressed rules will result in void of said warranty..

did i just read this right ?
so basicaly CCC is saying that they will void a warranty for any work they do if you take it to another shop to diagnose the problem OMG this is so freaking screwed up dude TIm at CCC you a messed up in the head for this
so if someone is 500 miles away from you and has a overheating issue they have to pay you to come pick up there car or pay a tow company to bring there car 500 miles to you to diagnose it
or if it is running and has some sort of problem
or if they want to take it just for a check up after say 10k to make sure its all good
it could have an issue but you possibly wont even tell them to save your own ass some money
but if the issue persist and they thing you where wrong they take it to another shop and they tell them what the issue is and then they come back to you and say this other shop said this and you say ok well i can take care of it for you but your warranty has been voided because you took it to another shop
WTF is wrong with you dude this is not good business

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:39 PM
Also that phone call you are talking about also states I was going to do all this for you at no cost to you so yeah go ahead prove to everyone that what I said was true and remember when you all hear it I was very upset finding out that all these lies were going on behind my back. So yes you will hear me being upset I had all the right to be, my friend had just stabbed me in the back, and that was a very painful experience.

If all these where lies maybe best thing to do is to have someone els other then Vincent who is on the forum with there warranty paper work agreement scan it and show us that it does not say on there if you go to another shop for diagnosit and inspection that your warranty was voided if you another customer can show that on there paper work then im sure some here might change there minds on who to belive in all of this just a sujestion so any other CCC customers have there papers you want to read over them and get back to us on weather your warranty agreement says this ?

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:46 PM
Jake,
I cannot believe what Iam seeing and I never seen anything I inspected the block very carefully before and after, I drove the car I had in and out of the shop,
there were never any leaks on my floor, I let it sit and run for at least 45min in one spot, why? because of testing it to make sure the head gaskets were done right I always do this, I would of never sent him home with an issue that I would have to do again.

i am not aware of the cause it makes no sence to me, but if replacing the block was what I had to do then it was OK, the only thing that I knew would suck for Vincent was the time of being without his car again.

Excuse me im not a Pro i don't work on Engines i have no more idea of how they work other then what i have learned talking to ppl here and there and seeing my engine be worked on ones and pictures
but When i found out i had a crack in the block it was not because of seeing coolant on the ground
from running it would only leak at first after a hard drive
so maybe you should take your cars out after working on them and drive them hard and let them sit make sure they area not leaking for sure

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:54 PM
Jim- that second image- the one I had come from Minneapolis was cracked just like that only a bit lower, across all oil drainback passages (not at all into the coolant jackets).

I wish I knew for sure what was causing this. I need a good hydraulic press and some old, unusable, but not cracked blocks. I have a rough idea.

If i remember correctly i think that second pictures looks just like the crack i had
Jake did David from PowerTrain Automotive ever email the photos he took when he had the engine out with the crack in the block to you ?

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 03:57 PM
Eh, no

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

I drove on a Cracked Block for about 12k From Start of crack untill it got really bad to bad to drive and started overheating all the time and i drove it heavy and hard even with the crack cause i was just waiting for it to go bad before taking it in

You should be able to drive it no problem id think

vincentm
06-12-11, 04:20 PM
Thump, the argumentb is no more, I suggest reading the entire thread first before quoting posts..if this keeps up I'm going to ask a mod to close this. No need for anymore knife throwing, read the whole thread first...

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

ThumperPup
06-12-11, 05:35 PM
Thump, the argumentb is no more, I suggest reading the entire thread first before quoting posts..if this keeps up I'm going to ask a mod to close this. No need for anymore knife throwing, read the whole thread first...

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone

I stopped when i got to the end when i started reading this was still not over what i did was read it all and then a few hours latter i went back and started to comment on things so excuse me
if the mods want to Delete the last few posts here fine with me

Carroll Cadillac
06-12-11, 11:04 PM
Thats cool' I am not a RWD owner, I don't own a SRX, the reason I am on this thread is I am the owner of CCC, I am Vincents friend and mechanic, I commented about the SRX because you wrote in your post about CCC, building a 350-375 I believe you were talking about a high performance 4.6 I was just getting ready to start one and was replying to your post.
No' I dont do the SRX RWD, I only own FWD Caddy's and I do the high performace packages on FWD's.

The next one I do I will share it with you, Ed from headers by ED and myself have come up with the out of the ordinary header mod's I think everyone will be interested in.
Thanks for your reply, Tim

vincentm
06-14-11, 10:26 PM
Wondering if this will serve as a temp solution?

http://tapatalk.com/mu/d036208e-1844-0fae.jpg

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Sent from my Northstar powered phone