: rotors changed...much nicer



allpedal
11-19-10, 12:24 AM
I replaced the factory with EBC rotors and green stuff pads all the way around. The break in period is almost over and the stopping is much nicer. I had planned on cleaning the area up and painting the calipers but I ran out of time. Next project.

http://www.fantasymotorsports.net/images/brakes.png

bstiffmanofsteel
11-19-10, 12:32 AM
Looks good!

MRANT212
11-19-10, 10:40 PM
I may be doing the same thing soon. Just put EBC's on my Impala SS...night and day..still waiting for the break in period as well!! Original GM rotors are just plain garbage!

allpedal
11-20-10, 12:48 AM
a little left on my break in period, I'm still hearing some squealing so I hope that goes away soon. if not I guess I'll be removing those when I tear them back apart.

Braknglases07
11-30-10, 09:08 PM
the rotors and pads just need to be Bedded!!! No squeaks and much better stopping power and longer rotor and pad life!

From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

If full race pads, add four near-stops from 80 to 100 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle , the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

bstiffmanofsteel
11-30-10, 10:53 PM
Why did you do the green stuff pads, as opposed to the yellow? And where did you buy?

allpedal
11-30-10, 11:23 PM
from what I read, the greenstuff were a better choice for daily driving and low dusting issues, that and price. I got them at Autoanything.com

Thanks for the writeup on bedding them. I'll give that a shot!

07Lambert
12-01-10, 02:11 AM
Thanks for the review, I've been on the fence and thanks to your review, I have mine on the way.

allpedal
12-01-10, 09:22 AM
Thanks for the review, I've been on the fence and thanks to your review, I have mine on the way.

thats great, I don't think you will regret it. I wanted get some brembos or baers but I just couldn't justify spending that much on the daily driver and I need to get tires this month.

Next comes the tune since the warranty is out :)

GrynchEXT
12-01-10, 06:55 PM
I came to the same independent braking upgrade conclusion and bought new EBC slotted rotors and Greenstuff pads (series 6000 for rear and 7000 for front) for my 2007 EXT. The rear pads arrived last week, the front pads and rotors arrived today. I noticed that the front pads had shims that came with them. I received no shims for the rear pads. Is this correct? I'm not impressed with factory pads and braking performance - hoping that this solves the problem without having to go to big brakes - I still run my 18" rims in winter with Blizzaks.

allpedal
12-01-10, 07:14 PM
Mine came with rear shims. I haven't had to really hit the brakes hard yet but the other day I pulled a trailer to houston and back. While in houston traffic I had to stop fast for a red light and it was easy. I was worried about the BMW behind me.

07Lambert
12-03-10, 02:10 AM
So far I have only received the rotors, pads were shipped separately. I'll see what I get.

07Lambert
12-09-10, 12:38 PM
i received everything finally, i have shims all around. nothing missing. Rear shims were already glued on when i received them.

I had my friend install them last night. huge improvement from the pulsating OEMs.

allpedal
12-09-10, 03:14 PM
very nice, be sure and post a pic with the wheel on...looks great!

JokerDev
01-07-11, 05:46 PM
Nice rotors. I put 7000 greenstuff on the front and 6000 greenstuff on the backs. Didn't splurge on rotors, but I did like the black ones you got

morlysafer
04-09-11, 10:53 AM
Question to those that have done their own brake job: I just changed the rear pads last night on my '07 ESV easily enough but failed to get the bolts off the front. I have a fairly long wrench but could not get them to budge. Anyone have any thoughts?

I just had the rotors turned so the bolts were recently off. The brake guy (in his trained doomsday speak) talked me into new pads but I figured I could do them myself and save the $200 labor. Now I'm afraid I'm gonna have to make the walk of shame and take the pads to the shop and ask for help.

Rich909
04-13-11, 01:33 AM
Nice upgrade. Looks like something I will be doing real soon.

comonroots
04-13-11, 08:57 AM
I did the same thing last summer. I love the stopping power and quiet braking. My only complaint is the rotors didn't stay black and they seem to rust very easily. Seems like I go out to my truck and look at the rotors and they look old and nasty because of the rust. Other than that I'm completely satisfied with the upgrade.

hcvone
04-13-11, 09:55 AM
Why did you do the green stuff pads, as opposed to the yellow? And where did you buy?

I have a set of their dimpled slotted rotors and yellow pads we are testing on my 11' platinum, and stainless steel lines, they sent us the yellow pads because they claim the "way I drive yellows would be the best choice" and they do stop about 20 feet shorter than the stock pads and rotors at 60, and while the braking is better than stock, it's still not close to my other two trucks with Baer big brakes, still a good mod for well under 1k compared to 6k for the Baer

fivepix
04-13-11, 12:56 PM
Great info here...

I think I might be interested in doing something similar, I have a few questions can someone clarify:

- What are the size of the Rotors? Will they match the stock ones? - The reason I ask is because in the winter I run 18 inch wheels and I want to make sure I can still use the same rims.

- When replacing the Rotors will I also need to get the Pads as well? or could I just purchase the rotors?

- Last questions, did you purchase all four rotors or just the front ones? and is there reason to getting just the front and not all 4?

comonroots
04-13-11, 01:52 PM
Never put old pads on new rotors. Old pads are already broken and worn according to the old rotors. Last thing you want is to groove your new rotors.

The rotors are whatever size you want. Goto any automotive website to get our factory sizes and match that up to the new rotors you want to buy.

Personally I wouldn't change just 2 rotors. What's the point. Unless the are warped and Ur broke but it is a caddy, so treat it like one and not a tahoe. No offense to the tahoe owners, but there's a reason for the price difference. Don't cheap out. If you can't afford all 4 then go OEM or save up.

fivepix
04-13-11, 02:15 PM
@comonroots Thanks that is what I figured. I asked about the 2 front rotors only because I thought I read that someone bought 2 just for the front and wanted to know if there was a reason other than price?

Defiantly will be looking into this for sure thanks!

Pa4ul
04-15-11, 01:38 PM
very nice!

SxS
04-15-11, 04:22 PM
i received everything finally, i have shims all around. nothing missing. Rear shims were already glued on when i received them.

I had my friend install them last night. huge improvement from the pulsating OEMs.

Nice rotor!!, now are those the EBC? if so they have the option in buying them in black or is the black a protective coating?

I'm planning on upgrading the rotors this month with hopefully a 24" wheel. Currently I own a 2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV 18" stock wheels

comonroots
04-15-11, 11:30 PM
Protective coating. It's gone within a matter of mins. Lol. Found this out the hard way. The idea of black rotors was cool at the time, but then I pressed on the brakes and it was all just an idea.

Dobiesdaddy
04-17-11, 10:54 PM
So what are the breaking distance improvements. Let's have some stats rather than it feels good or better.

darkknight1999
06-03-11, 12:04 PM
This is a good info thread... :) nice work guys! I'll be doing the brakes on mine this weekend... However I may wait and upgrade to EBC after reading this thread. But im not sure I can deal with the pulsing brakes much longer... lol its driving me crazy.

Do any of you guys know what size the front brake caliper bolts are?