: Big-Sert Head Repair - Can it be Done Without Removing the Engine?



Pete1996
11-17-10, 09:45 PM
I'm interested in head repairs that can be done without removing the motor.

I understand that the heads cannot be fitted over the studs due to clearance
issues with the motor in the car.

I'm wondering if the only issue with inserts such as the Big-Sert is clearance
for the drill. Does a right angle drill solve this problem, or ....?

I'm thinking of Big-Serts because I want to remove as much of the damaged
block material as possible.

Ranger
11-17-10, 09:47 PM
It has been done in the car with a right angle drill, but general consensus is that it is MUCH easier to drop the drivetrain.

Pete1996
11-17-10, 09:55 PM
Thanks Ranger, I will search the forum for some threads on it.
I also was just reminded of Norm's inserts after doing some searches.
Just want to use the most reliable type so Norm's might be better.

I understand that it is easier to drop the motor - hard to understand
but I'm sure it is true.

miwise
11-18-10, 12:16 PM
I pulled mine out thetop. Used a chain hoist and rigged a ratchet strap to tilt engine as it was coming out and going back in. Worked beautifully and didn't have to mess with any suspension parts brakes etc that way

miwise
11-18-10, 12:20 PM
Doing inside the car could be doable. might be difficult to get to the chain tensioners after u start putting it together. I'd be interested to know how u do it.

Ranger
11-18-10, 03:54 PM
If I'm not mistaken, Mike Lawson does them in the car (haven't seen him around lately).

bigtone
11-18-10, 08:08 PM
Doing inside the car could be doable. might be difficult to get to the chain tensioners after u start putting it together. I'd be interested to know how u do it.


I've done it in the car. The chains and tensioners are accessable. There is enough room to get at everything you need to have access to. JUST enough. Do a search in the forums and you can see the write up I did on it. Not real easy, but definately doable. For me, it was the best way to do it.

Pete1996
11-18-10, 09:26 PM
I've done it in the car. The chains and tensioners are accessable. There is enough room to get at everything you need to have access to. JUST enough. Do a search in the forums and you can see the write up I did on it. Not real easy, but definately doable. For me, it was the best way to do it.

Thanks for your reply - which inserts did you use? I've heard some negatives
with the Time-serts but I'm hoping that is because not enough metal was taken out.

Did you have to tilt the motor at all to do the work?

stoveguyy
11-19-10, 09:02 PM
i took motor out the top. they say you can loosen subframe and lower the front to tilt the motor forward to get more room. the distance from rear head to firewall is tight. i have a leaky rear valve cover gasket and tried to take off rear valve cover. i cannot even slide my hand between cover and firewall. how do you get the cover off? tilt motor? don't really want to do that.

bigtone
11-20-10, 11:44 AM
Thanks for your reply - which inserts did you use? I've heard some negatives
with the Time-serts but I'm hoping that is because not enough metal was taken out.

Did you have to tilt the motor at all to do the work?

No issues with the timeserts 2 years and 20k miles after the job. I did have good shiny metal when I drilled though. That seems to be the key. I just sold the car, but there were no issues at all with it. I did not have to tilt the engine at all to drill or install the timeserts. I pulled the motor forward to install the rear heater tubes though, using just the give in the rubber motor mounts. I removed the tubes without tilting, but I seemed to have more trouble installing them.

stoveguyy
11-20-10, 12:26 PM
yo bigtone, going by memory here. i thought the front/rear motor mount brackets are bolted to heads? what holds motor up when heads are removed?

bigtone
11-20-10, 03:08 PM
yo bigtone, going by memory here. i thought the front/rear motor mount brackets are bolted to heads? what holds motor up when heads are removed?

Those are the stabilizers that are bolted to the heads. The mounts hold the engine itself and are located down lower.

stoveguyy
11-20-10, 03:23 PM
i have changed mounts before. so you took off the dogbones and pulled the motor forward? what did you use to pull the motor?

bigtone
11-20-10, 06:36 PM
i have changed mounts before. so you took off the dogbones and pulled the motor forward? what did you use to pull the motor?
I used a comealong, from the lifting pad on the engine to the radiator support. Obviously, you dont want to pull hard enough to damage the mounts. I pulled it only as far as I could rotate the engine forward by hand, basically the comealong was just to hold it there. I got about 1/2" more clearance there, which was all I needed.

Pete1996
11-21-10, 04:06 PM
Thanks for the tips Bigtone, good to know that you just tilt the motor forward.
I don't think that I have the energy to do this job but if I were I'd probably use Norm's inserts, looks like he did an excellent job:
http://www.huhnsolutions.com/NS300L_History.html