11-17-10, 01:53 PM
Ok, so I have finally ordered a new Opti-Spark cap. I found a cheap "generic" one on ebay and ordered that. I have a FSM so I know the steps involved in swapping it out, but what I'm looking for is any tips/tricks/things to watch out for.
How to pull off the big pully infront of the distributor?
Should I replace the whole distributor or just the cap? (126k miles)
Also, there is oil leaking from under the waterpump. Jay said it's probably a timing cover seal for the waterpump driveshaft. Couldn't find any info on that in the FSM...anyone know a part number and/or how to replace?
Any help is appreciated.
11-17-10, 02:51 PM
reuse the factory distributor
change the dist seal in the timing cover
I havent seen a timing cover seal leak on one
of these as yet, make sure to replace
the small o rings on the dist shaft
the harm/bal just remove the three bolts
and then use a puller, leave the hub on the crank
the harm/bal will only bolt back on
1 way, since the bolts have a slight offset
also check the water pump on the back
for missing ball bearings, replace the pump if there missing
I have heard some neg reports on the cheapo caps
(on this forum), but you will be happy with the improvement
and overall performance a new cap gives you
also there is 1 bolt that is hard to see on the drivers side
engine accessory bracket, behind the air pump
the airpumps are almost always full of water and not functioning
call me if you have any snags
first time doing this can suck!, but after a couple its cheesecake!
11-17-10, 03:05 PM
Thanks Jim! I'll be sure to post some updates when I do it...Hopefully I'll take some pictures while working on it :)
11-19-10, 06:52 PM
so my new cap came in today...problem is the bolts that came with it are kinda weird. they are like a torx head or something...anyone know what kinda tool I need to work with those?
part number or anything.
11-20-10, 12:02 PM
you need a reverse torx #4
if you cant find one locally I have a few
there was a time you couldnt find them anywhere
I bought up a bunch of them, I have seen them at autozone
also, before removing the ign wires from the cap
mark them 1-2-3-4 from top to bottom
on both sides
to make it easy to put them back on
you could mark them as to what cyl they go to
but that can cause confusion
I used a sharpy
11-20-10, 02:17 PM
Thanks Jim! I'll look around for a reverse torx #4! Will let you know.
11-21-10, 09:09 PM
When I bought one of those bits for those screws its nose or bit part was not long enough.. I had to grind it down to make it longer to fit.... I also bought a cheapo cap on ebay over a year ago... it was realy good looking with brass terminals... just over 6 months in, it started to run bad... I took off the cap and it looked perfect, except the center carbon that touches the rotor was GONE.. and just a little black dust was left in there...