: New Car Got Questions????



Power Juicer
11-07-10, 09:50 AM
Ok, I just bought a 1992 Deville with 92,000 miles on it. I went ahead and changed the fuel injectors (from a 98 Ford Explorer), fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor button, plugs and wires, air filter, transmission and engine oil and filters, battery, alternator, water pump (that was a nightmare), O2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and new coolant w/ tabs. And after doing all this and clearing all the codes and letting the computer recalibrate I have noticed three things with the car: 1.) sometimes when coasting down to an idle the car will want to stall or die 2.) it sounds like it has an octane knock when going up a hill 3.) the blower motor does not push air out of the center console vents but will push it out the defroster and floor vents. Any advise would be much appreciated!!

Power Juicer
11-07-10, 04:35 PM
Ok I took the car out today. It did not die any, although it wanted to twice. I noticed today that after I shut the car off, let it sit for a little bit, then crank it back up it would go to idling crazy. On the way home I get a small miss going up the hill, then my check engine light comes on and I have a code E41 cam position sensor. How would you fix this? Just replace the cam sensor?? Also, where is it located? And I was wondering if these cars have an idle air control valve and if so where is it located?

Power Juicer
11-07-10, 10:11 PM
I think I have fixed the idle problem and the miss. The ignition coil had a lose ground. As for the code, E41 cam position sensor, it is still there. Any secrets to replacing the sensor without having to pull the distributor??

the recluse
11-07-10, 10:34 PM
GOOD LORD, MAN, BREATH... :bulging:


1.) sometimes when coasting down to an idle the car will want to stall or die

Since you mentioned the cam position sensor, that is a good place to start (especially if it's throwing the codes), but another place to look would be to run TPS and ISC procedures to make sure both are set up properly. Also look at 3.)


2.) it sounds like it has an octane knock when going up a hill

Are you running proper octane fuel, 91 or better? Do you have the right fuel pressure at the rail? Are all your injectors working? This one make take time to nail down with all the things you did in one shot....


3.) the blower motor does not push air out of the center console vents but will push it out the defroster and floor vents.

This one is controlled via vacuum, drivers side behind the A/C computer (DIC). Check to see if the vacuum lines coming from the firewall both under the hood and behind the glove box are intact. This may also be a cause for the stumbling at idle as well as the racing idle at times; all the signs of a vacuum leak....


Any secrets to replacing the sensor without having to pull the distributor??

No, you have to pull the distributor...

drewsdeville
11-08-10, 01:34 AM
Naw, the hall effect is easily replacable with the distributor in place using a 1/4 wrench and a little patience.

Power Juicer
11-08-10, 10:14 AM
Naw, the hall effect is easily replacable with the distributor in place using a 1/4 wrench and a little patience.

What parts on the distributor will have to be removed to put in the hall effect?
I dont wont to screw up timing:bonkers:

Power Juicer
11-08-10, 10:15 AM
Naw, the hall effect is easily replacable with the distributor in place using a 1/4 wrench and a little patience.

What parts on the distributor will have to be removed to put in the hall effect? I dont wont to screw up timing:bonkers:

drewsdeville
11-08-10, 10:25 AM
Unscrew the cap, flip it out of the way, unscrew and remove the rotor. The hall effect will be under the rotor plate, near the thermostat housing.

the recluse
11-08-10, 09:01 PM
Unscrew the cap, flip it out of the way, unscrew and remove the rotor. The hall effect will be under the rotor plate, near the thermostat housing.

Yeah, drews right, I was thinking the stator at the bottom...my bad...

Power Juicer
11-08-10, 10:04 PM
Ok, instead of just replacing the hall effect sensor I decided to get the whole distributor that comes with the sensor, for the same price as the sensor alone. Any tips on how to install the distributor without having to re-time the engine??

the recluse
11-08-10, 10:26 PM
That one I can say with utmost certainty is an impossibility.

daniel58
11-09-10, 03:25 AM
It will be easier if you make sure the timing mark is on TDC and the rotor is pointing to #1 position on the cap before you pull the old dist out. Put the new dist in the same location, you will still have to check the timing however. Not that bad of a job, jump the A and B on the ADL and set it to the specs located on the sticker in your engine compartment.

cadillac_al
11-09-10, 11:09 AM
Ok, instead of just replacing the hall effect sensor I decided to get the whole distributor that comes with the sensor, for the same price as the sensor alone. Any tips on how to install the distributor without having to re-time the engine??

Good move, that's what i would have done because I'm lazy that way. I hope I'm not too late to help you out on this one. I've seen way too many people screw up a simple distributor install because they outsmart themselves trying to point it or aim it at some point. The old man that showed me how to do it many years ago didn't go through all that hassle and thankfully I don't either. He always pointed it directly at the firewall, at 12 o'clock, no screwing around.

You would be surprised how close it can point when it is one tooth off. If you are aiming for some point, it may be so close that you think you have it. If you use the 12 o'clock method it is either 12:00 or it isn't. I would be willing to use 6:00 if I thought it would be easier depending where the distributor is like on these 4.9's.

You will have to reset the timing though. If you can install a distributor then you should be able to time it. I wouldn't really trust anyone else to mess it up. In that case you should invest in a cheap timing light unless you can borrow one. You probably won't need it again for many years once you get this distributor installed correctly. Good luck.

Power Juicer
11-09-10, 11:56 AM
Good move, that's what i would have done because I'm lazy that way. I hope I'm not too late to help you out on this one. I've seen way too many people screw up a simple distributor install because they outsmart themselves trying to point it or aim it at some point. The old man that showed me how to do it many years ago didn't go through all that hassle and thankfully I don't either. He always pointed it directly at the firewall, at 12 o'clock, no screwing around.

You would be surprised how close it can point when it is one tooth off. If you are aiming for some point, it may be so close that you think you have it. If you use the 12 o'clock method it is either 12:00 or it isn't. I would be willing to use 6:00 if I thought it would be easier depending where the distributor is like on these 4.9's.

You will have to reset the timing though. If you can install a distributor then you should be able to time it. I wouldn't really trust anyone else to mess it up. In that case you should invest in a cheap timing light unless you can borrow one. You probably won't need it again for many years once you get this distributor installed correctly. Good luck.

Thanks Bro, sounds like a winner!

Power Juicer
11-09-10, 12:40 PM
What does the timing mark look like on the crankshaft pulley?

Power Juicer
11-09-10, 02:16 PM
Also, how do you use a Dial-Back Timing light? I wont to set the timing at 12 btdc

the recluse
11-09-10, 10:08 PM
What does the timing mark look like on the crankshaft pulley?

It's a score mark about 1/16 of an inch wide on the harmonic balancer...

Power Juicer
11-09-10, 10:41 PM
Alright, I just finished timing the car. We will see how it runs tomorrow! Thanks for the help:worship: