I am thinking my 89d'Elegance is carbed that is why the pedal needs pumped a few times before it starts unlike FI which would not. Sorry my I am not mechanically challanged but isn't this car carbed? Thanks. :bonkers:

yes. The 1990 5L had a carb too.

It is most definately carbed, giving you that awesome gas pedal that's huge and hinged at the bottom! I love my carb, it makes my car that much cooler.

What does that have to do with the big gas pedal? :suspense:

If your question is, "Is the 5.0 307 carbed"? I would have to say yes. I have an '87 with a 5.0 307 olds engine and it has a 4 barrel carb.

Yep, the 307 stayed carburated till the very end of it's production. I believe it was the last of the carburated GM V8's...I may be wrong though.

It is a computer-controlled carburator.... a rather crappy system... it has an O2 sensor... and the check engine light, which likes to tell you the TPS is always bad......

computer-controlled carbs are not a very good idea IMO.... IIRC Ford did the same thing with their 1986 trucks....

Mine worked great for over 270K miles. Only had to replace the carb because some gorilla overtorqued the carb and crushed it, making the TPS stick. 10 ft lbs, 10 ft lbs, 10 ft lbs. Can we repeat?? 10 ft lbs, 10 FT LBS!!! And check it every 6 months!!!!

The only "issue" I had with the CCC (what is was called, Computer Command Control) was the mid range timing was always too high (it was expecting EGR and some rediculous lean mixtures) so it would ping easy requiing the timing to be reduced, hurting top end power.

But ALL 307's have a 800 CFM Q-Jet!! Works for me!!!!

my 307 has a 4-barrel and when I punch it, it accelerates like normal, no faster than if the pedal was halfway pressed. I guess I should test the gas pedal linkage and mabye take it up a notch or two... Is it that easy to configure a carb?

Sounds like the secondaries are not opening. Technically, a properly setup Q-Jet, or any 4BBL for that matter, you should never FEEL the 4BBL's opening, but you should get increasing power. I have seen many Q-Jets with the choke never 100% opening, and when that happens the 4BBL's are LOCKED OUT, there is a small linkage on the pass side that locks the secondaries from opening.

With the engine hot (>3.5 minutes from cold start, in almost ANY temp!) verify the choke is fully open. But when cold, (or manually close choke) Look for a linkage on the secondary throttle plate shaft (the bottom, not the top) that intersects with a small peice from the choke linkage that prevents the secondaries from opening. With choke fully open, you can go to WOT and you should verify that the secondaries are actually moving the secondary blades at the bottom. (engine off!) They should move, now close choke slightly, and you should see lever move into place and now block them and prevent from opening.

I recommend that the level on the secondary shaft be bent enough that it is prevented from ever locking it out. This is to prevent a bog when cold operation. BUT, a propely setup Q-Jet won't bog, it will have great power!

If you don't quite catch, I will see if I can take a picture of a junk carb I have and show you.

Ideally I remove the lever when I am working on the choke. Many Q-Jets have dirty linkage and or broken/missing hot air tubes that prevent the choke from getting to 100%, and the secondaries never open. This is likely the complaint of a vast majority of the 307 powered Cadillacs power complaints, and people never know.

Sure, the 307 isn't a rocket like its 350 brethern, but it isn't a slouch either. No, you won't go trouncing any LT1's or LS1's, but you should at least hold your own with the average cars out there.

Remember, the Q-Jets on all 307's are 800 CFM, but when the secondaries are closed, it is a 287 CFM carb. Not much at all. Great for throttle response, but lacks a serious amount of power.

Also, once you verify the secondaries are working properly, have someone step on the gas pedal and verify the secondaries (bottom blades) are moving to 100% vertical position. There really isn't linkage adjustment on these cars, but if needs to be verified. And while you are at it, at least every 6 months, readjust the transmission TV cable. This will also perk up the car a lot. The cables stretch over time, so shifting isn't what it should be. You can even set it up one more notch and it will shift a little higher too, but a WOT blast will reset it. GM says to reset to use the throttle at the carb. Not the gas pedal, I have found that using the gas pedal is a slightly bit better. It sets it up to shift a little higher shift points.

Now, for part 2...

Secondary opening RATE. This is also setup very conservative by GM. You have 2 adjustments here. The secondary tension spring, and then the choke pulloff doubles as the air valve rate adjust. This unfortunately is not adjustable, only replaceable.

1. Opening TENSION: Set the secondary tension to just keep the secondary blades closed when you tap on the secondary doors with the engine off. Make sure the carb is kept clean and free of gum and varnish. Clean all the linkage and air tubes every 6 months. I recommend Gumout, as it is a good solvent, the off brands can be harsh and take off the protective gold coatings, causing gum and varnish to get in places it shouldn't. Walmart brand is very harsh. The adjustment screw is seen when the secondary air valves are just opened on the pass side. Flat head screw. There is a locking screw, like a very small allen underneath that must be unlocked first. Be careful not to tighten too much, as you will break the spring! Stick in a flathead in the adjustment screw and then unlock it, adjust and then lock it. It will often spin on its own if you let go of it. Adjust by turning screw and tap on the air valves to see the tension. Once it ALWAYS closes when you tap them open is about as loose as you can go. Lock it gently. Drive it and look for a secondary BOG when you punch it. If it bogs, tighten in 1/8 to 1/4" turn incremements.

2. Opening RATE. This is when you need to remove and replace the choke pulloff. Most are bad anyway. If you car starts when cold, then dies, and then restarts fine, choke pulloff is bad. This does 2 things. It is on manifold vacuum from the carb, and when you start the car cold this opens the choke slightly to keep from a too rich condition (aka, starve the engine of air) and make it stall. So the pull off opens the choke to around .1 to .2 inches. This is set by the phillips screw there, don't mess with unless you have the book. But the other end of it, as you can see the linkage, is when the pull off is fully pulled, it keeps the secondary air valve from opening. You can go to the parts store and look at different cars/trucks and find a choke pull off that will fit (many do, even though some look different) from a car that is lighter and more performance. Say a 403 Trans AM, or a 400 Trans AM, or a 350 Vette, or a 350 Z28 etc. Or a 9C1 cop car. Those all had better ones. Play with them, note the rate of yours (new) to a new other car one. It will take some time, a good parts store should be helpful. Faster rate is always better, you can dial in more tension to slow the rate if it ends up being too fast. I have never seen one be a problem being to fast. But not connected or missing, is always a problem. To test rate, depress plunger, plug vacuum port, release (a new one will hold for >10 seocnds! This is critical!) Then release, the rate at which it releases is the fastest your secondaries will ever open. If you look there is a small air bleed hole on the body, sometimes you can tweak with, but I haven't done any of that, too expensive to damage....

So in a nutshell, Q-Jets are awesome carbs, Holleys still suck. There is SOOOO much adjustability in a Q-Jet. It can supply fuel to a 252 V6 to a 500 Cad. You can get near EFI drivability on one, even cold weather starting rivals most EFI cars. A Holley will never be able to do that. Anyone who says a Q-Jet sucks does not understand HOW to tune and work on them (technically speaking, they get blown, not suck....let your physics guys explain...). They are by far the most refined carb out there. Very accurate and very stable. And unless you are running 9's or faster, the Q-Jet will always be a FAR more efficient carb to run. Jim Hand runs 11.32 on a Q-Jet. And that is with a mild 455 in a 4000# car with economy 3.55 gears and a THM400.

my 307 has a 4-barrel and when I punch it, it accelerates like normal, no faster than if the pedal was halfway pressed. I guess I should test the gas pedal linkage and mabye take it up a notch or two... Is it that easy to configure a carb?

That probably isn't going to do anything unless the cable is really loose and the pedal doesn't do anything when you first press it. Maybe because it's a hearse they adjusted it so that it doesn't work properly on purpose?

After checking under the hood, I realized one spark plug wire wasn't even hooked up. I get a little more power now, and the Quadrajet opens as prescribed.