: help, front doors won't open



usalimey
10-23-10, 02:44 PM
history....
changed batteries in remotes they work fine
unlocks doors(except front) trunk, sounds horn etc.
Problem is when you walk up to car it senses remotes ,, try to open front doors and you can hear rear doors unlock but NOT the 2 front doors,,
Drivers door pops open when using key.Rear doors can be opened using handle

more history....
it started with front passenger door intermittently ,, then quit totally,now its moved to drivers door.

seems like doors are popped open electrically, is there an actuator or lock solenoid in door,,

anyone have the same problem?? and what was the fix??

Thanks................

jedhead
10-23-10, 04:03 PM
The front door has sensors that detect the presence of the FOB and when you pull the handle the solenoids activate and the door opens. Sounds like the sensors in the front doors may be bad. You might want to try to reprogram the remotes.

Bob

usalimey
10-23-10, 06:06 PM
aren't the sensors seeing the remotes? when I walk up and try and open the front door,,I hear the back doors unlock ,, its just the front door isn't unlocking when I walk up

BaTu
10-23-10, 06:23 PM
Try holding the Fob next to the handle itself (where the cars antenna is). As they fail, they fail with range...

usalimey
10-23-10, 06:27 PM
if I'm able to unlock rear doors when I walk up to car and pull drivers handle,, isn't the car "seeing" the remote,, if not the rear doors would stay locked...........isn't that correct?

BaTu
10-23-10, 08:22 PM
Maybe the rear doors are "seeing" the remote the drivers is not. I carry the Fob in my back pants pocket. About 10% of the time I have similar symptoms as you do. If I turn around (bringing the Fob close to the door handle) it opens every time. It seems like maybe each handle has its own antenna? Maybe?

EChas3
10-23-10, 09:01 PM
The antennas to unlock the doors without hitting any buttons on the fob are only in the front door handles. The rear doors are only supposed to unlock after a front door has been activated by the fob and the handle pulled. Under proper operation it is possible to pull a front door handle just a bit to unlock the rears and then open a back door.

The front doors never really lock & unlock; they just release the latch when they reach 'full pull'.

I'm convinced you have the common problem. It's a bit rare for them both to go bad at once. Do they ever work correctly? EFI can cause a lot of problems and make marginal operation worse.

If you've never done a system reset, remove both battery cables and touch them together. Reconnect. If the problem persists and all the batteries are good, replace the drivers side door handle. If that works, replace the other.

usalimey
10-23-10, 11:11 PM
Echas3.....they used to work,, then the passenger side started acting up,, sometimes it would open sometimes not,, intermittent probs hard to fix ,, anyway it finally quit and the drivers side started the same thing ,, and got to point were it doesn't work at all(got there a lot faster). the drivers door still"pops" open with the key,, and they can both be opened from the inside. If the antennas are bad in door handles ,, Why does it unlock rear doors?

EChas3
10-24-10, 12:27 AM
It doesn't have to be the antennas. It could be the latch release that has failed. I assumed the latch release was in the handle but after further consideration, perhaps not. Some member must have been into the door. How hard is it to change a door latch?

Someone once posted that a door handle micro switch had failed. Are there two? One to unlock the rears doors and another to trip the latch?

Greg00coupe
10-25-10, 01:14 PM
I've got the same problem......... exactly as you described. I am going to mess around with it tonight. I have not tried the second FOB to see it it works or not. I'm thinking its the antenna....... As I posted in another thread I'd be happy to just use the buttons in the FOB but no that does not work.

Maybe redo the set up on the Nav screen.......... IF I find a solution I will post later tonight.

Else I have a big hammer.

Midnight
10-25-10, 03:39 PM
Look here:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2010/130688-drivers-door.html

I had the same thing happen - in my case it was the module that actually unlatches the door - not the handle. There's a little motor or servo/solenoid inside that I think can bind up and get stuck.... the key and the inner handles are mechanical connections and bypass that motor. There isn't really any "lock" on the front doors, it's just all electronic - whether the car grants you permission and unlatches it or not. If you use the key, it pops the door, it doesn't unlock squat. And the inner handles always pop the latch.

The back doors are like normal cars power locks, they are actual locks. The solenoid pops the lock, and the handle and inner handle are mechanical connections to the latch.

I was able to lubercate my driver's door latch module and it seems to have fixed it so far. It's not too hard of a job, but it's a pain since you have to get inside the door. The module IIRC contains the latch itself, so it's all right there, you can get it off by removing the bolts by the latch (again going by memory). I just pulled the cover just enough to squirt a bunch of white lithium grease in it, and it worked. Your mileage may vary. Good luck! You can also probably order a replacement.

Greg00coupe
10-25-10, 09:30 PM
Thanks Midnight......... I'll check that out. The spare fob and disconnecting the battery did nothing. Yes I think it a mechanical problem. Just, like the farting noise in the A/C recycle unit. A little lube may work. Think I'll start off with some door lock lube that you spray into the key hole........never know. Hate to pull off the door trim.

usalimey
10-25-10, 10:12 PM
thanks Midnight,, also Greg00coupe ,, keep me posted on what you actually find to be the problem,,I went to a couple of websites looking at what parts are in door,, theres a module also a lock ,a lock cable and a lock rod ,, hard to tell what exactly goes were. the module controls the window lock and mirror,,,,, trial and error on those $150 pass side $100 drivers side

Greg00coupe
10-25-10, 10:20 PM
Hang with me on this one......... There is a rubber plug on the inside of the door frame directly beside the lock. I took it out and sprayed in some graphite oil w/o success. I may try again tomorrow. Else I'll take the door skin off. It makes sense that since the red light comes on and the back doors open that the problem is not electronic.

usalimey
10-25-10, 10:28 PM
Greg00coupe,,,I'm hanging...lol got my fingers crossed you can find a "cure"...

Greg00coupe
10-26-10, 09:03 PM
Unfortunately its a no go. Did all I could think of. Ended up taking the door panel off and lubed every thing I could see. Did find out taking the door panel off is one of the easier ones I ever did. I will call a couple of dealers tomorrow to try to narrow down the problem. All the parts are readily replaceable by knowing what to buy w/o a hunt and peck approach could get expensive. I'll let you know what the problem is because I need to get it fixed eventually. You do the same if you run out of patience first!!!

usalimey
10-26-10, 10:29 PM
Greg00coupe,,,do you have like a step by step on door panel removal?,,, also once inside,, is there a separate lock and cable or linkage? does it go to the "module",,, or what goes to the module? just electrical connections,, on gm parts site said a lock,, any wires from module to lock? thanks for taking the "bull by the horns" keep me posted on results and cost ,, The unlock switch on door panel,, does it go to the module?,,, just thinking out loud......:hmm:

ewill3rd
10-27-10, 09:13 AM
As stated fairly well in post 11 the system is set up as follows.

The "lock" is what most of you would think of as the door latch. The lock is all electronic and there is one manual connection to the inside door handle so it will always open the door. The driver's door has a mechanical lock cylinder, as stated it just allows for mechanical activation of the door latch from the outside, the assumption is that only a valid key will turn the lock.
The electric portion of the outside door handle works this way, when you pull the handle a switch in the door handle sends a signal to a controller on the car, that controller sends out a command to the door module to open the door and the door lock is activated allowing the door to open. This happens if a door unlock request is processed from a push of the transmitter button. The passive entry works in a similar fashion but you have to remember that when the door handle is pulled the vehicle polls for the transmitter to find it's location. If it is in range of the door handle then the open request is processed the same as above, however if the antenna does not report the proximity of the handle the passive request for entry is ignored even though all the doors unlock. The rear doors will unlock because the transmitter is being picked up as in range by other antennas on the vehicle but it cannot pick up the transmitter in range of the door handle.
These actually have antennas molded into the door handles, and they do have a high failure rate.

The rule I use is that if the door can be opened via an unlock button request but not by passive entry (i.e. walking up with the transmitter and pulling the handle) then I replace the outside door handle on the affected side.
It is a MAJOR pain in the rear to do the outside handles.
This will set codes although I don't recall in which module, I think in the RCDLR (remote control door lock receiver) and an ohm check of the antennas in the handles will usually verify the condition.

No amount of lubrication or manipulation will fix the passive entry problem.

Midnight
10-27-10, 12:12 PM
Wow, thanks ewill3rd. I didn't know about the bad antenna still unlocking the other doors.

One question:
> if the door can be opened via an unlock button request
... and earlier...
> a door unlock request is processed from a push of the transmitter button

So if you push the unlock button on the fob, this should in theory unlatch the front door? Like, as a test, Bob stands outside the car with the fob, and Bill sits in the car and pushes against the door (without doing anything else)... when Bob hits unlock, the front door should pop open (and for comic relief, Bill falls out of the car and lands butt-first on a cactus)... or is there something else that would keep the door from flying open?

I assume if the car detects the fob inside the car, unlock doesn't do this?

My car is currently outside in the rain, or I'd try it :D

Greg00coupe
10-27-10, 01:26 PM
"The rule I use is that if the door can be opened via an unlock button request but not by passive entry (i.e. walking up with the transmitter and pulling the handle) then I replace the outside door handle on the affected side."

Thanks Ewill..... I hear what you are saying but I know in my case and I think with the original poster here is what is happening:

1. The FOB will not open the front drivers door either passively OR hitting the unlock button on the FOB. I must use the key. But using the door handle does open the other 3 doors.

2. Going to the passenger side front door the passive system does not work at all. BUT you can open the 3 non drivers doors with the FOB using the unlock button.

3. The trunk works as it should, either off the FOB or passively walking up.

4. The red lights i.e. the lock lights work when as they always have when you pull up the door handle.

5. My passenger side stopped working maybe 6 months ago. The drivers side worked sporatically up until a week ago.

I'm thinking I need two new door handles and antenna. But it seems the system is picking up the FOB or why would it open the non driver doors?

IF you need to paint these door handles when you install I'm seeing an aftermarket product opportunity here..... chrome covers or the like.

Wonder if all GM cars with this system have these issues? A cadilliac dealer is not real close to me these days. Would Buick or Chevy have the same challenge?

Greg00coupe
10-27-10, 01:39 PM
USALIMEY... to answer your door panel question......... every panel I've ever removed, and for some odd reason that's been too many, have screws you must locate and remove as the primary challenge. On the STS there are 3 screws. Two right behind the door pull. If you picture closing your door where you knuckles are pointed there is a flap. Just put something flat under the leather flap and lift. It just comes right up no force needed as it is just a piece of leather flap. The two screws are directly in sight. The third screw is behind the door latch i.e. the latch you use to open the door. Pull the latch open use a small screwdriver to pop it from the left side i.e. the part next to the latch pivot. Reinstall just the opposite with the front going in first.

Once the 3 screws are out all that is left are the plastic retaining anchors around the sides and bottom. Lay on you back under the door and use a putty knife to gently pop the bottom edge. Pop one and the rest pop right off. Lift the panel in and up and it is off.

Once inside there is a cable from the inside door release to the door latch. There is a rod that runs from the key lock to the latch. And then there is a lot of electronic stuff running here and there.

I played around with it for manye 30 40 minutes. All the mechanical parts seem to be OK. So I'm back to the electronics which could be any where.

I have access to GM parts at cost. I just need to figure out what part to start with.

ewill3rd
10-27-10, 02:00 PM
It seems every one has a slight variation in this thread.
The codes will tell the story but in the absence of a scan tool I usually find the following.

If you pull the door handle and the other doors unlock but the door doesn't open the handle of the door you pulled is likely bad.
If you pull the handle and nothing happens the computer may not be seeing the pull switch in which case the inner part of the handle assembly will need replaced.

Greg it sounds like you have 2 different problems, I might be tempted to say your passenger door needs handle/antenna while the driver's side may need a switch.
I think the handles come color matched, some have a chrome piece on them but you have to peel it off the old handle and reuse it on the new one on the ones that have it.
They have changed part numbers recently so that may not apply anymore.

If the system responds to the unlock request from the transmitter but the door will not open it could be the switch in the door handle base, usually if you pull the door and it doesn't open it is the internal part or the "base" of the handle. If it sees you pull the handle but just won't open passively it is usually the antenna or actual handle itself.
Not sure if that clears anything up.

My name is actually Bill but I haven't fallen on any cactus lately.
:lol:

Greg00coupe
10-27-10, 02:51 PM
So I wonder off the GM Parrts direct website........

Is this what I need.........

Lock actuator, sts, sts-v, left

Only $89 too......

It's the only electronic part they show..........for the door system.

And I did think I needed an antena for the right door and do think I have two seperate problems at each door........ thanks again!

usalimey
10-27-10, 08:04 PM
ewill3rd......greg00coupe and I have the same problem I believe,, everything works as it should EXCEPT front doors will NOT "open" from the outside using either the fob or door handle,, drivers will pop with key.

"The rule I use is that if the door can be opened via an unlock button request but not by passive entry (i.e. walking up with the transmitter and pulling the handle) then I replace the outside door handle on the affected side".

mine can't be opened via unlock button on remote like greg.

I went to post 11 ,, I had gone to the link,, guy had same prob,, ends with dealer fixed it ,, didn't ask what it was,,,,,

greg ,, at gmparts direct,, saw no actuator but a lock for about $90 then the modules for both sides

below is part of your post ,, did you mean the other 2 doors (you wrote 3 got a lil confusing)

1. The FOB will not open the front drivers door either passively OR hitting the unlock button on the FOB. I must use the key. But using the door handle does open the other 3 doors.

2. Going to the passenger side front door the passive system does not work at all. BUT you can open the 3 non drivers doors with the FOB using the unlock button.

your time frame on your doors sounds identical to mine

usalimey
10-27-10, 08:12 PM
just tried something,,

walked up to locked car ,,,,grabbed drivers door handle red lite comes on rear doors unlock ,,drivers still doesn't open

it did the same on the passenger side

then I walked up to locked car USED unlock on fob grabbed drivers door handle red lite doesn't come on ,, interior and exterior lights come on rear doors unlock,, drivers still doesn't open

does this help diagnose car?

Greg00coupe
10-27-10, 09:18 PM
No USA I meant 3 doors. When I am at the passenger side I hit the FOB unlock button and 3 doors (less the drivers door) unlock. So what I am saying is using the FOB manually I can unlock all the doors EXCEPT the drivers door. IF you could use the FOB manually to open all 4 doors like most cars I'd be done. I would not care for the remote deal.

Talked to my dealer today......... he thinks it is the antenna in the right door and the relay in the left just as Bill/Ewil suggests. He offered to run a diagnostic on it for $100 and apply the $100 to any repair costs. I think that to be a fair deal. But it's hard with work and he being 25 miles away to get there.

As I don't drive the STS much until the snow flies this in not a big deal to me but something I want to get behind me. Thus I doubt I'll be doing too much real soon.......... other then using the key when needed!!!

usalimey
10-27-10, 09:22 PM
greg,, so the only door that you can't open from the outside is the drivers door? both my front doors don't work,, first was the pass.. then the drivers

ewill3rd
10-27-10, 10:30 PM
limey, I have only had to fight with a few.
Going by what you are saying... let's see here... yeah I still think you have two bad antennas.

The red light doesn't come on because you just unlocked it so it is not secure. The other doors are unlocking but it can't see the transmitter because you have 2 antennas that are dead.
Honestly guys... I rarely see any other problems other than transmitter issues or dead batteries.
If you press the buttons and stuff happens that pretty much rules that out.
The only other thing is if you pull the handle and the car doesn't respond at all it is the internal switch and not the handle.

Most of what I see on this topic looks like dead antennas.

usalimey
10-27-10, 11:24 PM
Bill,,, the red lite comes on when I walk up try and open both front doors,,,,but I hear the back 2 unlock

when I walkup use unlock on fob ,, red lite doesn't come on interior lites come on and back doors unlock.

you think thats the antennas in both front doors then ,,,

thanks I appreciate your help,, judging by the amount of posts you've probably helped hundreds

ewill3rd
10-28-10, 09:32 AM
I have been helping people fix cars online since about 1994 in one way or another. I come here several times a day and offer advice when I can. I didn't realize I was over 10k, but I don't worry about the numbers.

The red light doesn't come on if you press unlock because you have disarmed the security system, at least I think so. I can check one in the shop and see but I don't have any that are messed up so I can only tell you what it should do.
The fact that the other doors respond indicates to me that it sees you pulling the handle so the interior portion of the outside handle seems to be working. As many antennas (handles) as I have replaced I would suspect them first and it really sounds like you have a couple of bad ones.

Greg00coupe
10-28-10, 03:11 PM
"greg,, so the only door that you can't open from the outside is the drivers door? both my front doors don't work,, first was the pass.. then the drivers"

My passenger door does not work off the passive system. It will open if I hit the FOB unlock button or pull the drivers door handle; The drivers door will not open unless I use the key.

My drivers door does not work off the passive system OR hitting the unlock on the FOB..... but as yours does when I lift the handle the other 3 doors open.

The red lights work as they always have. So on the left side I think the antenna is picking us the FOB but the relay is not opening the drivers door. On the right side the antenna is out would be my conclusion.

Looking at the cost of parts it's not that expensive to get 2 door handles and 2 relays. Maybe $350. Since I need my bumper painted anyway that may be the way to go. However I just am not in mood to pull it all apart right now. AND If I replaced everything out I would hope the new stuff was of a better design....... but no I'm sure it the poor results that got us where we are at and will repeat down the road. GM never learns and fixes sub par designs.

D&Ds_STS
10-28-10, 03:46 PM
One of the symptoms when our '06 went insane a few weeks ago was the front doors would not open when using the fobs, but back doors unlocked on second press of unlock button. Fronts doors still would not open with both back doors open. Apparently the front door receivers went to sleep. Only problem found was a bad car battery. Been working fine since.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2010/211713-sts-went-insane-part-ii-bad.html

EChas3
10-28-10, 10:57 PM
I swear - Believe what EWill3rd states. He sees more STS problems than most and he shares the facts as he sees them.

The Keyless Entry is is no where near the most complicated system on this car. Yeesh!

ewill3rd
10-29-10, 09:28 AM
Okay let me preface by saying it is really hard to diagnose cars over the internet.
If I had the cars here I could tell you what was wrong with them in about ten minutes. (okay mabye a bit longer)
I will post images here of the inside handle and outside handle and explain some things and you guys just have to take it from there.

The inside handle is serviced separately nad has a switch that tells the computer when the handle is being pulled. If the car won't respond to the handle at all then it is likely this piece.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y161/ewill3rd/inside_handle.jpg

The outside handle has the antenna inside of it, if you pull the handle and something happens but the door you are tugging on won't open it is likely this.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y161/ewill3rd/Outside_handle.jpg

In the shop I can check things with the scan tool, like see if the computer knows when the handle is pulled, check for antenna codes and a few other things. Most of what I have seen fail is the outside handles, but that doesn't mean that is all that can be wrong. There is wiring, possible module issues, and the like.

Most of what I see, as I said indicates handle problems.

D&Ds_STS
10-29-10, 11:19 AM
I swear - Believe what EWill3rd states. He sees more STS problems than most and he shares the facts as he sees them.

The Keyless Entry is is no where near the most complicated system on this car. Yeesh!

I absolutely agree, ewill3rd's post are helpful and accurate. :worship:

You got a problem with me advising OP that there is a possibility his system is insane? It is a processor driven system, and it can go nuts. Mine did. According to the dealer tech, my problems were resolved by replacing the car battery. Seems to me it would makes sense to rule that out before tearing the effing door apart.

ewill3rd
10-29-10, 10:27 PM
These vehicles are particularly prone to low voltage freak outs.
If the battery goes low on one of these it causes major issues because the entry systems are all electronic and activating several solenoids and relays even for vehicle entry can cause low voltage which in turn causes massive electrical turmoil.

Nothing wrong with suggeting a good check of the battery.
Usually something else will crop up as a symptom, but it is a good idea not to overlook the basics.

EChas3
10-30-10, 11:07 AM
You got a problem with me advising OP that there is a possibility his system is insane?

Absolutely no problem here. Even my wife's '98 STS had 'senior moments' with its electronics. Please accept my apology if I offended.

If the battery tests good under load (not exactly what was reported) and the system reset didn't help, I feel like one or more bad components are involved. It sounded to me like good advice was being discounted. That is always an owner's perogative but when an expert offers advice, I listen.

Dennis Viscusi
10-30-10, 03:49 PM
Can someone explain the antenna mechanism in the outer handle and how it causes the respective system failure?

RippyPartsDept
10-30-10, 05:23 PM
i'm pretty sure it was explained above... what are you unclear about?

Dennis Viscusi
10-31-10, 11:16 AM
How does the antenna convey its signal? Is everything wireless? Also, I am trying to replace the passenger power door lock actuator. Can you supply any diagrams and/or directions describing the final stages of this job? Does the entire hard plastic liner that resides between the inner door panel and the steel framework of the door have to be removed in order to gain sufficient clearance to replace the part? Is there a method for removing the white plastic retainers (without destroying them) that hold the hard plastic liner in place? Do the three painted screws (accessible from the outside of the door above the latch mechanism) need to be completely removed? I ask this question because the screw closest to the outside door handle is stripped. Any help that you may offer is much appreciated.

ewill3rd
10-31-10, 11:29 AM
Dennis, what kind of car do you have?
A DTS would be totally different.

There are several antennas on the STS, they work together to triangulate the actual position of the transmitter. If one or more antennas cannot work then it eliminates the car's ability to locate the fob. The handle is basically a short range sensor that looks for the transmitter within 2 feet of itself. If it doesn't get a response then the door won't open.
It is actually a pretty impressive system when it works the way it ws designed.

The STS doesn't have a "lock actuator" in the traditional sense. It is just a computer operated latch and I haven't had one fail yet.

Dennis Viscusi
10-31-10, 02:24 PM
ewill3rd, I am sorry. It appears that I am in the wrong place. As you can see, I am new to this website and quite truthfully this is my first shot at any internet discussion. I am a poor typist and thought that I entered a thread about my wife's car, a 2000 DeVille. Obviously, I got off track somehow. Again, I apologize and will attempt to find the correct place to ask my question. Any suggestions about getting to the correct place? I have enjoyed reading your posts. You sound extremely knowledgable. Any opinion on my predicament?

EChas3
10-31-10, 03:00 PM
Ah! Now it makes more sense. Good luck Dennis. I'm confident the DTS guys can help.

Cadillac DTS Forum (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-dts-forum-2006-through-2012/)

RippyPartsDept
10-31-10, 05:08 PM
that's actually the 2006+ forum for DTS

for his wife's 2000 Deville he'll want to go to the past vehicles Deville forum (1985-2005) (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/)

EChas3
10-31-10, 05:57 PM
Oops! Where's that smiley to kick one's own ass?

:bang2:

Close enough!

RippyPartsDept
10-31-10, 06:01 PM
yeah, he's got a 2008 also i noticed though too

ewill3rd
11-01-10, 10:00 AM
Dennis, just put "ewill" somewhere in your post in the DTS area and I will find it.

AllGoNShow
11-07-10, 02:14 AM
So I have the same issues and am seeing the parts you are posting but have an issue... mine are all sporadic, they will give me crap for a half hour, then I will come out and it will work, hop in and drive to pick up the wife, doesn't work all night long on and off sometimes once sometimes 2-3 times, next day i dont drive anyone normally (funny how that works) but sometimes i do, normally works again. Doesn't sound like low voltage to me as sometimes i try with the vehicle running as well. Normally when it is not working I can pull the handle, red light triggers, all other doors unlock but door will not "pop". Keep pulling continously and sometimes I will get a a half ass "pop" and it will catch the latch until another 3-8 trys gets it open.

Does this sound like the handle/signal to you?
Do you know what the proper voltage/amp rating (alternator output as well as battery) by any chance? 2005 STS V6

Having other electrical issues such as lights on steering wheel won't work some days, other days they do, when they are choosing which day to work, the drivers door lock buttons light follow opposite (but buttons pyshically work still).
Driver seat heater on alone, nice and hot, passenger seat heat always hot, both on at same time = drivers heat takes 3x longer to heat up.
Also have tons of ABS/TCS/Stability control/Airbag warnings, sometimes over bumps, sometimes on smooth roads, sometimes before car is even shifted into gear.

Unfortunatly I do not trust my GM dealer after they eff'd my front bumper up and I took it in for quite a few issues that never got resolved before warranty. No one around here that I have found yet has a proper GM Tech II to scan all the ECU/BCM's and tell me exactly what is happening :( If only there was a cheap Tech II alternative.

EDIT: thanks :):)

ewill3rd
11-09-10, 07:44 AM
Yes it sounds like a handle issue.
Not sure what you mean about the charging system. With it running anything 13 Volts and up should be fine.
The backlighting in the switches is likely going to need new switches, not uncommon and they don't service the "bulbs".
Not sure about the seat heater issue, they aren't intertwined enough to affect eachother.

Steering wheel position sensors are the "weak link" on the stability system but you have to start with code checking and go from there.

You could have some grounding issues but that would take some serious schematic checking and maybe even road testing.

AllGoNShow
11-09-10, 12:03 PM
Yes it sounds like a handle issue.
Not sure what you mean about the charging system. With it running anything 13 Volts and up should be fine.
The backlighting in the switches is likely going to need new switches, not uncommon and they don't service the "bulbs".
Not sure about the seat heater issue, they aren't intertwined enough to affect eachother.

Steering wheel position sensors are the "weak link" on the stability system but you have to start with code checking and go from there.

You could have some grounding issues but that would take some serious schematic checking and maybe even road testing.

Thanks very much for the tech info :) I will get some new handles and go from there, are you able to look up proper part #'s by any chance?

Thanks for the info on everything, seat heater and lights are on the back burner (unless you know if a 07 Steering wheel trim with different buttons will work on an 05 STS?)

I will get it scanned with a Tech II and go from there, seems like to many variables to throw parts at (4 wheel speed/ABS sensors, TC sensors, steering angle sensors etc.. etc..)

RippyPartsDept
11-09-10, 01:25 PM
i can look up part numbers, but i'd rather do so with a VIN and not just a year+make+model ... makes it much easier for me and accurate too

AllGoNShow
11-09-10, 01:31 PM
i can look up part numbers, but i'd rather do so with a VIN and not just a year+make+model ... makes it much easier for me and accurate too

Ok :)
VIN: 1G6DW677350221723

Thanks for your help!

RippyPartsDept
11-09-10, 04:46 PM
LH #19121210 - $158.15 (list price) - your price $117.50 (in stock)
RH #19121211 - $168.31 (list price) - your price $125.00 (1-2 days away)

They come unpainted & need to be painted to match.

AllGoNShow
11-09-10, 05:23 PM
Thanks :) What dealer are you with?

RippyPartsDept
11-09-10, 06:00 PM
find my sig (if you've got them turned off i think you can see them in my profile)

Rippy Cadillac (ad cube over here)----------------------------------------------->

Greg00coupe
12-06-10, 12:56 PM
So as an update...... over the weekend everything started to work again!!!! Wonder how long that will last?!?!? Wonder why for 3 months I had to use a key to get in and now the FOB and related system works??? Could it be the cold Ohio weather? Maybe the can of WD40 I sprayed in there when I pulled off the panel??? Naw!!! Maybe it's the Xmas CDs I'm playing. What electronic gawd or gremlin is messing with me????

Well anyways until I can get it coded and see what the camputers have to tell me I will go with the flow. So glad the remote start has always worked along with the heated seats and steering wheel....... winter is coming too soon.

EChas3
12-06-10, 09:43 PM
Electrical contacts often work better when cold. Most corrosion is caused by water and freesing a damp connector can tighten the contacts.

You might separate & dry all connectors and reassemble using di-electric grease. It can't hurt as long as you're careful not to bend a pin.

Greg00coupe
12-07-10, 01:23 PM
So are you talking about all the conectors in the door panel or should I be looking at other connectors? I know on a Corvette they focus on the main frame ground whenever there is an electrical problem.

EChas3
12-07-10, 10:54 PM
I was thinking of the door because it is the most susceptable to moisture. But you are right. Most problems are traced to ground.

Greg00coupe
12-08-10, 01:21 PM
Thanks for all your help.... at this point I hope it does not return at least until spring. I do have a heated garage at home and work so who knows how much a factor the cold is. It's been in the 20s and 30s so not that cold yet. But I think it has to be a connector or ground. On the electronic components relays and the like there's nothing mechanical so they either work or don't from what I understand.

AllGoNShow
02-11-11, 12:03 AM
ewill need your help again!

Passenger door is totally dead from the outside now. Outside handle does nothing when locked or unlocked with key FOB, handle does not unlock back doors or driver door when pulled. The red light does come on when the system is locked from the keyfob but one interesting thing I found is that if I lock the car from the fob (both driver and pass light up red for 5 seconds if i leave it long enough) then hit unlock right away the driver door will kill the red light and put the interior lights on but the passenger door still shows a red light for the remaining part of 5 seconds. No way to open the door from the outside. Going to pull the panel off and see if I can check the electronics with the info posted here but if you happen to know the answer you may save me a few hours work :) Still pointing at the handle for that issue?

Also wondering if you can help with this one... trunk release... took my car to the dealer one day, they put the valet switch on for some reason. Before I dropped the vehicle off, never had an issue with the truck release from the outside handle or the key fob. Ever since I flipped the switch back off, I have not been able to use the trunk release handle from the outside, but the key fob will pop the trunk. When you push the button on the handle, you can hear a relay click underneath the rear shelf but no action from the release. Replaced the handle/button thinking it was up, no change. Any ideas? This is with both my '05 #2 fob before I had my 2 #1 & #2 '08 style fobs.

Thanks for the help as always :) Rippy looks like I finally need some parts, I'll be in touch soon.

ewill3rd
02-11-11, 08:38 AM
Well it has been a while since I have messed with one but I would still say that if you pull the handle and there is no response from the car it doesn't know you are pulling the handle. That would mean the switch on the handle base is bad. If the vehicle responds but just won't open the door (red light) then it would be an antenna issue.
If I understand you correctly you are saying that even after a key fob unlock press X2 (first one is driver, 2nd is all doors) that the pass front door will still not open.
To me it sounds like the switch in the handle, not the outside handle itself.
Being able to see codes and data would really clear it up for you but....

As far as the trunk goes, I have not seen that issue but why was the dealer working on it?
Refresh my memory as to where the valet switch is located? Is it in the glove box and did they do something behind the glove box?
If so then perhaps they disconnected the valet switch and the computer can't see that it is deactivated?
Otherwise I'd have to think about it more.

AllGoNShow
02-14-11, 04:12 PM
Didn't get a chance to pull the panel off yet, ran into a few other glitches this weekend.

Vehicle doesn't respond from the passenger side, doesn't unlock drivers door or pop its own door. If I push the key fob unlock x2, nothing changes, no response. Unfortunately no GM Tech II near me, but I may just replace the switch and the handle since I was having issues with what we believed was the antenna last year.

Dealer actually had no reason to touch the glove box or the valet switch (Yes valet switch is in the glove box when you open, top left corner). The only thing I can think of is they messed something up when they did a warranty on my head unit, but the glove box doesn't need to come out for the CD changer to be replaced so I really have no idea why it all of the sudden stopped working after they had it. The computer still activates and deactivates the valet mode (prevents stereo changes, trunk opening with fobs or inside button) so I believe it is still connected and being monitored.

ewill3rd
02-17-11, 09:12 AM
Be sure the remote has a good battery. CR2032, you can get them anywhere almost.

AllGoNShow
02-17-11, 01:14 PM
Both remotes brand new battery's when programmed approx 6 months ago

EChas3
02-17-11, 01:28 PM
6 month battery life would be less than expected but not all that unusual. If you're getting no response, replace the battery. If you're penny-pinching, try the new battery in each fob before concluding it's something else.

AllGoNShow
02-17-11, 02:18 PM
No response from driver or passenger side I would give battery a try but perfect response from driver side and no response from passenger door is not a battery issue, especially when the key fob is on the drivers side or in the drivers seat beside the antenna and the passenger door isn't working.

EChas3
02-17-11, 04:33 PM
Sorry. I thought you wrote no response from either side with either fob.

Neutrocuted
03-07-11, 10:33 AM
ewill3rd, do you have a part number for the drivers side inside switch?

EDIT: Never mind, I called around and found it. 19120306. Lowest price I found online is $77.75 delivered.

Mine went out this past Sunday. I had a snafu on Friday, for the first time, where the door wouldn't open with the first few tries. Saturday, the wife used it all day showing homes to clients (she absolutely loves the feature because that is one important key that she no longer has to fumble with when dealing with combo codes, access cards and other keys to access homes on the market) and it worked flawlessly. Neither of us carried the door key with us, just the fob, and thankfully when it decided to quit it was in the garage.

Since it has the old stylefob w/o the hidden key, either one of us could have been S.O.L. had it happened while away from the key which stayed at home.

Just a word of warning, or rather what I think is a good suggestion to all that don't have the key attached to the fob... you could get caught without access should they both fail simultaneously, or if only one door works and you depend on only the drivers door for passive entry. Without the key...

RippyPartsDept
03-07-11, 12:12 PM
Neutrocuted,

If it was you that I just talked to I can offer a better price than I quoted on the phone. You didn't mention that you had found us on the forums, so I quoted you list price.

That said, I can't really beat that other price you found. (Including shipping my best price would be a few dollars more, like $82)

~Chris

Neutrocuted
03-07-11, 10:56 PM
Chris,

Wish I had known that all I needed was to let you know I was a forum member. I would have paid a few bucks more simply due to the courteous help I received from you and the help you guys there give to forum members. For my future parts needs I will be going to Rippy.

Thanks again for your assistance!

Jerry

RippyPartsDept
03-08-11, 12:54 AM
I almost asked you if you found us on the forums when you said you were calling from out of state.

Oh well... Don't worry about it (it's not like it was a huge sale or anything)...

catch you around,
Chris

AllGoNShow
03-26-11, 05:38 PM
Damn electronics, door has been working fine now for 2 weeks.

Bikedude
03-28-11, 02:52 PM
My 05 with 35K miles is going in on Wed. for this. Can't open Driver's door excecpt with key. Pass side works passivly. From reading these posts, I believe it's related to drivers side antenna, or door handle. I know I'm going to pay though, since car is out of warr.

usalimey
04-10-11, 08:43 PM
FIXEDOK I started this thread ,, and my problems are solved.... heres what I did and what I found out.....

took drvr side door panel off to check things out,,,, tracked down wire to door handle ,, just that movement and door started working again ,,, BUT not for longbout 3 weeks still nothing on pass. side,,ordered and bought handle base for drvr side, ,,piece that mounts inside door THIS piece has the micro switches in it,, so I remove door panel again and again it works just by messing with wires,, DISCONNECTED ant. that goes to door handle ,,, door still worked so NOT sure what ant. does except maybe range,,, replaced handle base,, its a #itch to do have your local gm mech. run assbly instructions on gm web,I did may still have them if needed . WELL I get it all back together and the door has worked flawlessly for the past 3 months,,, heres a surprise also,,, for whatever reason pass. side door now works

to summarize MY beliefs ... because rear doors unlocked when trying to open frt drs,, my belief the ant. ok the problem is the 2 micro switches in door handle base, possible they get corroded as for the ant. like I said I disconnected mine and it still worked .I Know this is long winded ,, but so many people on here get their stuff fixed and never reply ,, or never ended up asking the dealer when they had it fixed.

usalimey
04-10-11, 08:45 PM
and most important a thanks to everyone on here that offered their help

GO TO PREVIOUS PAGE FOR MY SUMMARY

Greg00coupe
04-11-11, 01:24 PM
Glad to see it worked out. Mine did basically the same thing.......... it started working again on its own. When it acts up again.........and it will. I plan to take apart every connection in the door, inspect, use a good electoral geese and replug the components back together.

chazglenn3
04-11-11, 04:08 PM
Poor geese... :D

usalimey
04-11-11, 11:22 PM
theres 2 micro switches in door handle be hard to clean those off,,about 1/16" diameter spring loaded push switches if u get it that far apart bite the bullet replace the housing,, imho

mannyurrego
04-13-11, 11:49 AM
take it to the dealer, i was having the same problem but in the rear doors, they fixed, 2008 sts. also getting scare about electricla issues on this particular model.

kreagermags
04-28-11, 11:40 AM
FIXEDOK I started this thread ,, and my problems are solved.... heres what I did and what I found out.....

took drvr side door panel off to check things out,,,, tracked down wire to door handle ,, just that movement and door started working again ,,, BUT not for longbout 3 weeks still nothing on pass. side,,ordered and bought handle base for drvr side, ,,piece that mounts inside door THIS piece has the micro switches in it,, so I remove door panel again and again it works just by messing with wires,, DISCONNECTED ant. that goes to door handle ,,, door still worked so NOT sure what ant. does except maybe range,,, replaced handle base,, its a #itch to do have your local gm mech. run assbly instructions on gm web,I did may still have them if needed . WELL I get it all back together and the door has worked flawlessly for the past 3 months,,, heres a surprise also,,, for whatever reason pass. side door now works

to summarize MY beliefs ... because rear doors unlocked when trying to open frt drs,, my belief the ant. ok the problem is the 2 micro switches in door handle base, possible they get corroded as for the ant. like I said I disconnected mine and it still worked .I Know this is long winded ,, but so many people on here get their stuff fixed and never reply ,, or never ended up asking the dealer when they had it fixed.

Thanks for summarizing everything. I am having the same problems with my driver's door and found it hard to "find" the solution in this forum. Lot's of suggestions, but few concrete solutions to a problem that I think alot of people are having. I would like to replace everything, but shipping and price of products to Canada is double of what guys pay in the USA (example, $350 for handle antenna at the dealer here, $158 online in USA). Before buying parts I think I'll rip apart everything, grease all connections, reassemble. I hope it works...

Kreager

Neutrocuted
04-28-11, 11:32 PM
Thanks for summarizing everything. I am having the same problems with my driver's door and found it hard to "find" the solution in this forum. Lot's of suggestions, but few concrete solutions to a problem that I think alot of people are having. I would like to replace everything, but shipping and price of products to Canada is double of what guys pay in the USA (example, $350 for handle antenna at the dealer here, $158 online in USA). Before buying parts I think I'll rip apart everything, grease all connections, reassemble. I hope it works...

Kreager

Check out this "how-to" thread. It might answer some of your questions and help you diagnose your issues, or at least eliminate 1 possibility!
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/228338-drivers-door-micro-switch-replacement-how.html

Good Luck!

Nils Soderman
05-05-11, 03:21 PM
My 05 is currently at the dealer for this exact problem, they just called and told me that they reprogrammed it to lock and unlock as i approached the car but i told them that that is not the problem and look again so they have no idea either, i will report back when (if) they fix it, i like the lube theory because it is intermitant and seems to be temperature related.

jaymevb
05-09-11, 09:54 PM
i'm still not sure which one my problem is. Occasionally, the driver's door won't open unless the handle is pulled repeatedly (10-15 times), opened from the inside, or opened with a key. However, the other three doors will unlock when the driver's door opens. It was just at the dealer (of course it worked fine then) and there were no codes.

is it the handle antenna or the switch?

if it's the handle, why does it work most of the time.

EChas3
05-09-11, 10:29 PM
Does the passenger door work reliably? Does it work more reliably with the other Fob?

A bad switch, actuator or antenna can all cause the issue you describe. There's a very good thread (2 parts) with full testing & repair. Dig back a couple pages.

Marlin
05-11-11, 02:07 PM
Yea the STS I am working on the Pass door will sometimes open and sometimes not. If I lift the handle without the fob the red light will light up so I know it can see I am pulling the handle. But when unlocked or the drivers door is opened the Pass will not open, but the 2 rear will.

So the most common issue is the 19120307 handle/switch for this?

Thanks

usalimey
11-09-11, 05:51 PM
I'm back

well the drivers door like I posted is fixed ,,

passenger door worked for whatever reason after fixing drivers door ,, but only for a few weeks (believe temperature change is the problem)

so I ordered new base for pass. door handle and replaced it ,, its been 6 months since I replaced base and 9 months since replacing base on drivers door handle they both work flawlessly

TO RECAP....if your door doesn't "pop" when you pull handle ,, and you hear rear doors unlock ,, in my case it proved to be" door handle base" like I said in previous post door worked with the antenna

disconnected ,,

both door handles exposed to same amount of weather , hence same amount of corrosion, hope this helps and like I said get the sheet from a gm tech on how to remove and replace door handle ,, its a $itch

aung03
05-16-12, 01:59 AM
Hello STS owners,

I am going through all of the postings above and still confused on what part to purchase for my Driver Side Door.

Scope of Problem: Driver Side Door does not open when I use FOB or by pulling on handle. All other 3 doors unlocks and opens when the Driver Side Handle is pulled or Unlock with FOB....flawlessly. The only way I can enter my car is by using a Key or having my girlfriend pull the inside handle from the passenger side, which as you can imagine is sort of embarrassing.

Do I need to order a new Handle, LOCK ACTUATOR or other? Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you

usalimey
05-16-12, 07:56 AM
Hello STS owners,

I am going through all of the postings above and still confused on what part to purchase for my Driver Side Door.

Scope of Problem: Driver Side Door does not open when I use FOB or by pulling on handle. All other 3 doors unlocks and opens when the Driver Side Handle is pulled or Unlock with FOB....flawlessly. The only way I can enter my car is by using a Key or having my girlfriend pull the inside handle from the passenger side, which as you can imagine is sort of embarrassing.

Do I need to order a new Handle, LOCK ACTUATOR or other? Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you

If you read my posts ,and your problem does sound the same IMO the part you need is NOT the handle Or the Actuator,,, YOU NEED THE HANDLE BASE ,its the part that's inside the door that has micro switches in it ,,,like I said read my posts ,,I started thread and pretty much solved my problem ,,I listed all the things it did and didn't do along with what I did to fix it ,how hard it is to remove,etc ,pm me with any questions if you wish

ABQDon
05-31-12, 04:23 PM
After reading all of the posts, I decided to try the cheapest option first. I ran down to the Auto Parts Store and got an $8 can of electrical contact cleaner. Similar to a can of WD40 with the hose you attach to the nozzle. I put a little squirt into two places (the gap when you pull on the door handle toward the rear of the car and removed the rubber cap in the door frame at about the same height as the handle). Problem solved. Now works every time.

One other note, when it wasn't working, I could hear a "beep" inside the car, so I knew the switch was being sensed.

dannyquest
06-01-12, 02:24 PM
ABQDon, I did the same thing, sprayed contack cleaner in to the driver door handle untill it ran out bottom of the door. Worked for a few days. Then nothing, more spray. Called Rippy Cadillac order the switch assembly. $88. includes discount (Cadillac form member) & shipping. I printed off how to replaced the mirco switches. I never did this before but only taken 2 hr. Later I played with the old switch and found out only one micro switch was bad, the orange & blue wire. You can test this with a volt meter. I also popped the switch apart to see what gone wrong. Clean inside, just not making contack. Hope this help. Danny

----------

aung03, My 06 STS was doing the same thing. Replaced the driver door micro switches. The door lock actuator should be good. I live in columbus Ohio, Maybe you can stop by and we can installed it. Danny

~Nightcrawler~
11-29-12, 08:38 AM
Wow, after skimming through this topic, I wonder WHO at Cadillac thought this was a useful feature?!?

curtc
11-29-12, 06:49 PM
Wow, after skimming through this topic, I wonder WHO at Cadillac thought this was a useful feature?!?

immensely useful, I love not having to ever touch my keys

Ludacrisvp
11-29-12, 07:45 PM
immensely useful, I love not having to ever touch my keys

I agree completely.

EChas3
11-29-12, 11:02 PM
This car has spoiled me. I never want to lock rentals.

truckinman
11-30-12, 03:24 AM
This car has spoiled me. I never want to lock rentals.

Lol. I feel the same when I drive Chrissys Ion. Lol. My parents Avalon is keyless too but you've still gotta push a button on the door handle with your thumb to lock it. Lol. Not ours. Locks all by itself. Lol. Very nice for when you've gotta arm full of groceries!

Dyates
05-20-13, 01:43 PM
Does anyone have a part # for the driver door base micro switches?

----------

Does anyone have a part # for the driver door handle base micro?

dannyquest
05-20-13, 10:00 PM
dyates, On my 06 STS V-6, I only needed the driver door micro switch. The parts # is 19120306 housing k 10.527. Order it from Rippy's auto parts. $88.24 shipped. Most of the time it's the micro switch. Danny

raypersia
11-03-14, 08:20 PM
Hi everyone, that has a problem with Cadillac STS door handles not opening from the outside, here is your solution, and it's a easy fix... my mechanic just fixed it for me for cool $10.00 that's right ten dollars.... he plugged in his scanner to my car, and reset the computer, less than a minute, the doors were working 100%. so please don't get succored by mechanics that going to tell you it will cost over $1,000 to fix it..and you have to replace the modulator. so good Luck.. I am very happy about spending $10.00 and I want it to share this experience with other cadillac owner that have the same problem..

Ludacrisvp
11-03-14, 09:50 PM
Well considering there's about 27 different "computers" in the STS and I've spent a lot of time playing around with the GM Tech 2 on my car and I've never seen any sort of option to fix the door handles on it.