: Oil Question



ThumperPup
10-09-10, 09:51 AM
Ok just Wondering i know there are alot of ppl who have difrant opinions on weather or not it is really Bad to Switch back to Conventional Oil ones they have been Using Full Synthetic's

this isnt about that not atleast all
this is more of a part of
when i have the engine work doen
to have the block replaced they have to Disasembel and Reasemble Clean of what is good and replace what is bad
so wouldnt this be like starting over with a new engine
is it ok and worry free to go back to Conventional Oil or do i still need to stick with Synthetic's ?


also i probably should start a new thread about the next question but what the hell im going to use this also save space

is what the shop doing considered Rebuilding My Engine or are they Just reconditioning it ?

thanks

Submariner409
10-09-10, 10:01 AM
The engine won't care what type oil you (they) pour in as long as it's the recommended viscosity range.

"Rebuild", "recondition" and "recon" all imply the same when it comes to engines: the engine is taken apart, any obviously worn or broken parts are replaced, any necessary internal machine work is done and the engine is put back together, filled with oil, and tested.

Your post says "block replaced". Under that extreme condition I would assume that you'll wind up with a practically new engine.

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 10:03 AM
only problem i've heard of is sometimes when people switch to synthetics the molecules are smaller so the syn can leak where the dino wouldn't
(not sure if this is an 'old mechanics tale' or not but it seems logical to me)
if i was you i would just stick with the dino oil - maybe switch to a semi syn blend or something but it's really not needed.

plus your engine oil life algorithm/calculation is based off of dino and if you use syn you won't really have a good idea of how it's degraded

ThumperPup
10-09-10, 10:25 AM
iv already been using Full Syn
i just was thinking of going back to the Old Conventional or a partial Synthetic because of Cost and all and

also will moving back to a Conventional Oil cost me more money because i might get less MPG Question

also will a conventional oil burn slower or faster or does it not make a difrance and it will all burn the same in the N's

yes Sub the reason im having this doen is because the block is cracked so
The Shop is ordering a new block and studs from Jake
So what ever parts the Shop can reuse they will and what ever parts need to be replaced will be replaced
i think i got a preaty good deal on this they are chargin 2290 for the labore plus the parts

im just thinking that maybe this would be a time to go to a conventional oil unless there is not to much of a point to i know that it will take my oil costs down but will it burn the same ?
i was actualy thinking of going with the Mobiil one semi synthetic wich is what use in the full syn
and also does it matter about the oil filter Question
Do i still need to spend the oney on the wix filters wich i think are the best or with a Conventional oil can i get away with just any oil filter
and ill have to do oil changes alot sooner wont i question now i use the full syn add a quart every 1200-1400 miles depending on weather its all city driving or highway driving
with the full synthetic so in my mind im always putting new oil in so im only changing it because of the filter so i change the filter and oil every 10k usualy
will i have to do it alot sooner with the conventional oil because ill be burning less
will i esential be doing all the same or just spending more on oil changes sooner ?

thanks

drewsdeville
10-09-10, 10:39 AM
iv already been using Full Syn
i just was thinking of going back to the Old Conventional or a partial Synthetic because of Cost and all and

also will moving back to a Conventional Oil cost me more money because i might get less MPG Question

also will a conventional oil burn slower or faster or does it not make a difrance and it will all burn the same in the N's

yes Sub the reason im having this doen is because the block is cracked so
The Shop is ordering a new block and studs from Jake
So what ever parts the Shop can reuse they will and what ever parts need to be replaced will be replaced
i think i got a preaty good deal on this they are chargin 2290 for the labore plus the parts

im just thinking that maybe this would be a time to go to a conventional oil unless there is not to much of a point to i know that it will take my oil costs down but will it burn the same ?
i was actualy thinking of going with the Mobiil one semi synthetic wich is what use in the full syn
and also does it matter about the oil filter Question
Do i still need to spend the oney on the wix filters wich i think are the best or with a Conventional oil can i get away with just any oil filter
and ill have to do oil changes alot sooner wont i question now i use the full syn add a quart every 1200-1400 miles depending on weather its all city driving or highway driving
with the full synthetic so in my mind im always putting new oil in so im only changing it because of the filter so i change the filter and oil every 10k usualy
will i have to do it alot sooner with the conventional oil because ill be burning less
will i esential be doing all the same or just spending more on oil changes sooner ?

thanks

Any filter, any oil in the correct weight. Change it according to the cars oil life monitor for best cost efficiency. I personally use the generic store brand (Advance Auto or Farm and Fleet) oil and AC Delco filters in all of my vehicles. Almost 200k miles on both and no negative effects from using the "cheap" stuff. In fact, my '90 only uses 1/4 quart between changes per the OLM, and I think that's phenomenal at it's age and mileage.

It's all the same. Just use whichever bottle looks the prettiest to you, if that's your thing :P . Otherwise, get whatever your wallet likes.

ThumperPup
10-09-10, 10:45 AM
Any filter, any oil in the correct weight. I personally use the generic store brand (Advance Auto) oil and AC Delco filters in all of my vehicles. Almost 200k miles on both and no negative effects from using the "cheap" stuff. In fact, my '90 only uses 1/4 quart between changes per the OLM, and I think that's phenomenal at it's age and mileage.

It's all the same. Just use whichever bottle looks the prettiest to you, if that's your thing :P . Otherwise, get whatever your wallet likes.

I think the oil burns difrantly in the Northstarts then the 4.9 from your post it looks liek you have a 90 and a 95 wich have the 4.9 ?

the N's where i think desined to burn oil not intentionaly but they do

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 11:31 AM
N* will burn oil if the rings aren't sealing perfectly (which is what happens when the car is driven like a granny) - Sub, Ranger, etc correct me if i'm wrong there
1-2 qts per oil change isn't really a big deal though since they take like 8qts (although checking at gas refills and topping off is a good idea - just don't overfill)

ThumperPup
10-09-10, 12:29 PM
i dont always drive that a granny and i boot with a WOT every few weeks and that doenst seem to help mouch

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 01:46 PM
Hmm i could be wrong... wouldn't be the first time

Submariner409
10-09-10, 02:19 PM
The Northstar, with filter change, takes 7.5 quarts of whatever oil floats your boat in the proper viscosity range for your year engine. GM wants you to keep the oil level in the middle of the hashmark XXXX's. NOT at the top.

If you want to carry oil changes to experimentation absurdity you could use dino this time, blend the next, and synthetic after that and start over again. The engine won't give a damn; or make your own blend from Rotella, Long Life or Delo and a good synthetic in whatever ratio you want. :suspect:

I think the molecule chains in a "synthetic" oil are longer than in a conventional dino oil........

This is a generic dipstick, but you get the idea:

<-------- ADD XXXXXXXX -- OPERATING RANGE----------------------------------------------------------O

ThumperPup
10-09-10, 02:23 PM
ah cool cool I think thats what ill do this time
and see what happens how fast it burns and what it uses and all
thanks for that idea i didnt even think about it

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 07:25 PM
Thanks for the correction and info Sub
Fwiw, I just checked my level today and it was a tick mark below half. DIC says 56% oil life

Submariner409
10-09-10, 08:46 PM
Thanks for the correction and info Sub
Fwiw, I just checked my level today and it was a tick mark below half. DIC says 56% oil life

1999 Deville, city/suburban car, oil life at 56%. Tick below half hashmark. 1500 - 1750 miles of driving since last oil/filter change ??? (Assuming you're not paranoid and dump in 4 ounces every other week.....................)

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 09:50 PM
i don't remember the exact mileage... but i'll check tomorrow

oh and i think the fuse for my interior lighting just blew... no glovebox light and no courtesy or overhead lights... ugh

RippyPartsDept
10-09-10, 10:32 PM
[sorry for the tangent/hijack]

so i went out to the car an opened the door and lo-and-behold the courtesy lights turned on... glove box light worked too... what a mystery

ThumperPup
10-09-10, 11:09 PM
i hope your lights stay on if they dont then this caddy might be getting ready for holoween the ghost of the one who owned it before you