: Mode Door Actuator Fix - How-To



jrdubhead
10-02-10, 02:10 PM
With the priceless help of Ranger and ewill3rd, I was able to easily and confidently repair my Mode Door Actuator. My problem of not getting any air out through the vents (hot or cold) is finally over. Here is how I did it.

This is the part you'll need. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016IGVQM/ref=oss_product AC Delco p/n 15-72654. You can also get it from Rippypartsmaster (Chris Heath) or Luke in Parts at Lindsay Cadillac up in the Vendors threads
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3949/diagram.jpg (http://img178.imageshack.us/i/diagram.jpg/)

First off, you're gonna need the proper tools. Otherwise this job won't be nearly as fun.
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7519/78021747.jpg (http://img202.imageshack.us/i/78021747.jpg/)

more tools...the thumb ratchet is invaluable
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6297/63976641.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/i/63976641.jpg/)

Here's the assembly out of the box as it arrived
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/7807/61901683.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/61901683.jpg/)

Okay, now to disassemble the new part. You'll need the ratchet and 5.5mm socket.http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8114/70933038.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/70933038.jpg/)

Grab that pry bar...
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4535/32100438.jpg (http://img291.imageshack.us/i/32100438.jpg/)

All done. Now let's go to the car!http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/5707/35623654.jpg (http://img827.imageshack.us/i/35623654.jpg/)

In the car, it'll help to remove the knee bolster. If I remember correctly it's only a couple of screws and the other part just snaps off. Simply pull directly (horizontally) towards the back of the car (not up or down) It's still tight but doable. Grab the flashlight and have the rest of the tools handy. You're gonna be on your back and/or knees for a while. This first actuator is NOT the one we're replacing. I removed it for ease of access, but you don't have to do it if you don't want to. If you do...disconnect the harness FIRST.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1255/89168677.jpg (http://img201.imageshack.us/i/89168677.jpg/)

Here's the guilty actuator. Disconnect the harness first of all. There are three screws holding it in place. DO NOT touch the screws holding the plate in place. Only the three screws that hold the actuator in place. Seriously, I can't stress this enough. Removing the whole assembly has meant HELL for other members here. Learn from their suffering.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/363/93745795.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/i/93745795.jpg/)

Grab that pry bar again. This time it'll be a squeeze, but you can do it. Remember not to force it. Twisting the pry bar as opposed to the "normal" way of using the pry bar works beautifully. Also, if you did remove the first actuator, keep track of them. They look similar. You don't want to mix them up. They wouldn't fit but still. Don't confuse yourself. The "good" one we removed for access has a "W" on it. The bad one we're replacing has a "CB" on it.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/3069/96037238.jpg (http://img836.imageshack.us/i/96037238.jpg/)

Once the bad actuator is off, simply grab the new one and it's the reversal of removing it. Put it in place, place the screws by hand in their holes and "finger start" them. Tighten with the thumb ratchet. Don't over tighten. Don't plug the harness yet. Place the first ("W") actuator back in place. "Hand start" the two screws and tighten with the thumb ratchet. Don't over tighten. NOW...you can plug both harnesses back in. Start the car and let it get to know the new actuator. Give it a few minutes and try to switch to the dash vents. You'll feel that wonderful breeze reward you with a blast of cool air!!
Hope this helps someone.

shout outs to Ranger, ewill3rd, submariner and rippypartsmaster.

dougndiya
03-27-11, 10:13 AM
Wow this is exactly what I needed to fix my 01 Deville. Only problem is I have never worked on my Deville and although the pics and instructions on replacing the actuator are great, how about a pic or two and some instructions on where it is and how to get to it? Only thing mentioned is knee bolster???:bonkers:

willybears
04-21-11, 11:53 PM
Great instructions and photos. My 2001 had a floor heater duct with Flange that was right in the way. I'm not sure if others ran into this or not. I figured that I could neatly cut the flange and replace it with some strong adhesive after R&R of the actuator.

Now that I have replaced the actuator though, I now have another problem. Before replacing the actuator, we had only floor air or defrost....No AC Vents. Now with the actuator replaced (thanks to the great thread) I now only have AC vents and little or no floor vent air and no defrost air. I can see the actuator moving the control wheel but it does not move very far :hmm:. Any Suggestions????

00 Deville
04-22-11, 10:05 PM
I can see the actuator moving the control wheel but it does not move very far :hmm:. Any Suggestions????

It sounds like one of the cam followers may not be riding in the groove on the big white wheel. Your going to need to pull the actuator back off the assembly. Once you do this you should be able to turn the big white wheel by hand. It should turn easily... rotate the wheel thru full travel with the HVAC fan on and ensure that air is re-directed from the defrost to dash vents to floor. If you feel any mechanical binding or resistance your going to need to find out whats causing it.... the most likely being one of the cam followers or plastic arms is out of the track on the back side of the wheel.

Be extremely careful if you need to peek behind the wheel to examine the monkey motion... if the cam followers or plastic arms fall off... it will be very difficult to figure out where they go and how they line up... been there done that and I don't wish it upon anyone.

00 Deville
04-22-11, 10:16 PM
My 2001 had a floor heater duct with Flange that was right in the way. I'm not sure if others ran into this or not.

It's much easier if you remove the duct... it's fairly easy to cut out... just be sure to remove the small temp sensor in the duct before doing so by rotating it a quarter of a turn. I reattached my duct with the metal foil tape that's used to seal duct-work on home HVAC systems.

willybears
04-23-11, 09:47 AM
Thanks for the post 00 Deville. During the install of the new actuator, I had to move the wheel with the actuator attached only to the center shaft of the wheel, just to get the bolt holes on the actuator to line up with the appropriate holes. What may have happened....and I pray this isn't the case, is that while trying to free the old actuator from the wheel, I may have pried the actuator rather that twisting the screw driver between the WheeL and actuator. I will post the results of manually moving the wheel, but it may be a week or two before I get back to it. Good news is that my wife will be much happier :bouncy: with the AC vents working in the Alabama heat that is getting ready to hit us

tutball
04-30-11, 08:49 AM
This is exactly what I needed. BIG Thanks to everyone who had posted on this topic.

dougndiya
05-31-11, 05:52 PM
For anyone now looking to replace the mode door actuator...On many GM cars with the actuator with plastic gear, the part has been changed and you must now replace the entire assembly and not just the actuator. Check with your dealer. My '01 Deville is one of the cars with the new part. The old actuator is no longer available. The old part is pictured on the left and replacement part on right.

http://www.dougndiya.com/MDAcompare.jpg

deeteeess2
06-05-11, 08:24 AM
I just finished replacing the mode actuator on my 01 DTS and I want to give a big thanks to all who led the way on this. Well done. From my just completed job I wanted to share a few experiences.

1. Cutting off a portion of the driver's side foot well duct as others have stated is critical, at least for a DTS. I dittzed around trying to see if there was a way to avoid this. Nope. Just cut off the flaired portion of the driver's side duct (leaving the sensor hole intact!) and you'll find that the actuator is right there behind and above the remaining duct. I used a hack saw blade that is mounted on one of those inexpensive adjustable handle things and it worked like a charm. Took only a couple of minutes or so.

2. If you don't have a thumb ratchet or a thumb driver, be sure to get one. I got mine at Loew's for just few bucks. I was able to reach all three of the mounting screws with it and it worked great. I used some putty in the 5.5mm socket end to help hold the mounting screws. Tried to magnetize them but with no luck. Start with the hardest to reach screws first and be sure to get all three going before final snugging.

3. In trying to pop the old actuator off of the cam, I placed my long reach screwdriver so that the handle was console-side of the accelerator pedal which then points the screwdriver tip to a great location on the actuator where you can twist the screwdriver and remove the actuator from the cam. To keep everything in place, I used my left hand to work the long screwdriver between the cam and the actuator and with my right hand, I used a different screwdriver to push against the cam at a 90 degree angle to it to keep the cam from moving and losing the levers. This worked great too.

4. I found that removing the radio during this repair is not critical but because it's not a hard item to remove, it does give you another "window" for some extra light if you find that you need it as someone mentioned earlier. In retrospect, I did not need it. If you do remove it, you do not lose your preselects, at least within the less than a day time frame I took.

As an aside, I took the broken actuator apart (four screws) to see what the culprit is and found that there are four plastic gears. The one that drives the gear that moves the cam had lost one tooth. Can't be more than a twenty five cent part. For those of us that have experienced it, this is reminiscient of GM's cheap plastic retainers in the window regulators that crack and fail causing so much trouble in our cars. Sure wish these folks would spend a few pennies more for higher quality parts on high load, high stress applications like these!

Again, thanks to everyone for giving me the background to tackle this job and to save myself a bunch of money in the process. It is much appreciated.

Cadmandj
06-12-11, 06:45 PM
This thread has been extremely helpful in getting the actuator off. However, my problem goes beyond the clicking. my fan simply won't com on at all, most of time, then suddenly it comes on. I took my actuators apart and the gears looked fine. Is there an electrical problem with these? If so , which one. Should I replace them both? Should I look at the cam while I have these components Off? Again, help so far has been awesome.

Thanks!

Ranger
06-13-11, 10:58 PM
This thread has been extremely helpful in getting the actuator off. However, my problem goes beyond the clicking. my fan simply won't com on at all, most of time, then suddenly it comes on. I took my actuators apart and the gears looked fine. Is there an electrical problem with these? If so , which one. Should I replace them both? Should I look at the cam while I have these components Off? Again, help so far has been awesome.

Thanks!
Your problem is the blower, not a door actuator.

cooper3
06-24-11, 07:03 AM
When I did the same job on 03 deville I had the same problem with the white wheel no floor air and little travel. I had removed the radio to see if it would help in the job. The lever for the floor air is directly behind the radio. I was able to reach back with my left hand and turn the W wheel and with my right hand manipulate floor air diverter back into its groove. How it got out I dont know. I can turn the w wheel thru all of it travels. Hope this helps.

Cadmandj
06-26-11, 07:12 PM
2002 sedan deville.
OK. I can do the Blower. But the blower comeson for the rear air. (same one or separate).
Replaced CB module with one from O'rielly's. It had no part number so I can't say it was like and kind.
Now nothing happens. No clicking, no fan. except for rear air fan.
Compressor comes on.
I did take the cam off on made sure it was actuating properly. It may have been bound up because it wouldn't move with the actuators off.
It was working fine after I took it apart and put it together.
Here's where I am now. replaced CB actuator (a little worried it may be wrong one).
No more clicking. Fan doesn't come on.
I am considering replacing the fan. what could that hurt? Only money right?
Will the codes tell me what wrong? Haven't found the right link to run through them.
Looking for some advice on starting over or what to check next. Is there a way to check the fan.
My concern it the system is not telling it to come on. If this is an impossibility, replacement is a obvious step.
Again, blog has been awesome. Thanks.

Cadmandj
06-30-11, 11:57 PM
If it's the blower, why the clicking? Blower was sometimes working while fan was blowing. No more though.
Got nothing now. I guess blower this weekend.

2002 Devile DTS
07-13-11, 10:17 AM
This is good stuff guys, thanks..
My problem is similar, but different.
My passenger side front AC gets very cold, but my driver side is only a little cold, I assume there are separate blend doors for driver and passenger sides. Has anyone ever had this problem? If so, is this blend door located in the same area?

Brian

mberlant
08-27-11, 03:54 AM
Many, many thanks to jrdubhead and everyone who helped him write this dead-on procedure for replacing the door actuator.

I moved my '01 DTS to Japan four years ago and experienced the dreaded clicking in May of this year. I was pleasantly shocked to find a few lively discussions here when I googled the error code. A quick peek up under the dash confirmed the source of the clicking and gave me confidence that I had identified the right part. I coaxed the actuator to move just one more time to the AC-blow-in-my-face position and pulled the plug from the CB module until I could fix the problem (or until winter, whichever came first).

I got the part from the US two weeks ago, and finally got a chance to tackle the project today.

For me, the most difficult part of the job was cutting the driver's side flared duct. It took about ten minutes, which seemed like an eternity with my feet draped over the driver's headrest. The old CB came off with some moderate persuasion after removing the W module to give me leveraging space, and the new CB went on without a fight when I manually rotated the white flywheel to match its double-d fitting.

I can't imagine how many hundreds of dollars I saved over giving the car to a local mechanic - or worse - to the local dealership.

Thank you all again for saving my bacon.

overpaid4myfc
08-28-11, 02:24 PM
Great tutorial. I'm currently replacing the mode door actuator assembly on a 2000 deville, I've been wrestling with aligning the arms on the back of the cam for a while now, is there any special trick to aligning the arms? The cam starts to move and then jams and I'm afraid of stripping the new gear inside the actuator.

j'ladd
09-09-11, 09:25 AM
With the priceless help of Ranger and ewill3rd, I was able to easily and confidently repair my Mode Door Actuator. My problem of not getting any air out through the vents (hot or cold) is finally over. Here is how I did it.

This is the part you'll need. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016IGVQM/ref=oss_product AC Delco p/n 15-72654. You can also get it from Rippypartsmaster (Chris Heath) or Luke in Parts at Lindsay Cadillac up in the Vendors threads
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3949/diagram.jpg (http://img178.imageshack.us/i/diagram.jpg/)

First off, you're gonna need the proper tools. Otherwise this job won't be nearly as fun. {for the remainder see: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/211863-mode-door-actuator-fix-how.html}


Wow, I am impressed, that is one thorough tutorial. Thank you.

apribby
09-14-11, 11:57 PM
Just did this job this afternoon. If you're not comfortable cutting the duct to the floor, it is not totally necessary. I managed to get around it with a few cuts and scrapes. Hardest part for me was getting the old actuator off the white shaft of the wheel, it was really on there. Thanks for the write-up, awesome job.

DSorgi
02-23-12, 11:57 AM
I have the same vehicle. I see the large black plastic "something" that blocks my view, but didn't know it was a duct and I cancut a big access hole.
Question. II see you can buy an actuator motor and the cam assembly. Two diiferent assemblies. How does one know which is bad.
My air flow is thru the dash vent only. the heater control icon show all modes, but the flow never changes. How do I know which one is bad?

TAMPAGT07
05-03-12, 12:04 PM
Quick question: How long did it take you guys for this job? (I'll be doing mine this weekend.)

TAMPAGT07
05-05-12, 08:03 AM
Good write-up...I just did mine and it only took about an hour...I didn't cut the duct either, I just worked around it...I put my car up on the midrise lift (waist high, to make it a little easier.)

Taisho
05-16-12, 10:28 PM
I know this was posted a while back, but this is Blender, accuator issue gets a lot of play and here on this forum you all went above and beyond the cadillac call to publish one of the most helpful threads. So I wrote to nominate this thread for Caddy Classic. this is why forums are here on the net. Thanks to everyone.

Dr. Tom
06-01-12, 04:08 PM
following excellent instructions (with drawings) by jrdubhead, I removed mode actuator only to find the cam rotates about 10-15 degrees (freely) then hits hard stop. Clearly, the cam should rotate about 180 degrees. I must have a door jammed. I took the old mode actuator apart, all teeth on all gears look OK, no stripped teeth. I rotated the cam to clockwise stop, have air out dash vents, so have happy wife.

By the way, for those who need to replace mode actuator - I cut the driver's lower duct behind the temp. sensor, found no need to remove the actuator jrdubhead removed for convenience.

Anyone have input to possible door jamming, and how to proceed? Thanks, Tom

marinemerchant
06-10-12, 07:19 PM
Just finished this job after a couple hours of research spread over months of putting it off. I've had this tutorial bookmarked for a while now but got the bug to get the job done today for some reason. Just wanted to say thanks to the OP.

My notes:
Patience like no tomorrow and if at all possible a helper if for nothing else to keep you calm. I normally do not get into a fit of rage or blow my top but this job can try your patience due to being upside down to do it and barely enough room to fit both arms / hands to do the job. The black duct in the way is annoying as all hell but I didn't want to cut it out and didn't, but could see how this would make the job easier. I ended up pulling the radio out mainly because I'm thinking about getting one of those fancy double DIN Pioneers and was curious how hard/easy it was to pull the radio for that future job. Easy and pie. I did end up losing a screw, but I had 3 extra from the replacement part when I took the actuator off it. The total job took me under 2 hours, but that was about 3-4 times of running back and forth in the house for the right socket size. The 5.5mm was needed, but I also the 7mm to remove a black firewall panel after removing the knee bolster beneath the steering column.

Marco
06-28-12, 01:16 AM
Many, many thanks to jrdubhead and everyone who helped him write this dead-on procedure for replacing the door actuator.

I moved my '01 DTS to Japan four years ago and experienced the dreaded clicking in May of this year. I was pleasantly shocked to find a few lively discussions here when I googled the error code. A quick peek up under the dash confirmed the source of the clicking and gave me confidence that I had identified the right part. I coaxed the actuator to move just one more time to the AC-blow-in-my-face position and pulled the plug from the CB module until I could fix the problem (or until winter, whichever came first).



Wait, what? Are you (or anyone else) saying that simply removing the electrical connector once the air is blowing from the dash would allow for cold a/c thru the dash vents w/o any clicking at startup?
The only controllable feature would be fan speed then?
IF so, I could live with that for now.
Problem is 2 days ago, I lost the dash vents.. So I may need to see if I can hand turn the wheel to get the dash vents mode back.
Please, anyone who has info feel free to chime in.

Ranger
06-28-12, 09:10 PM
Are you (or anyone else) saying that simply removing the electrical connector once the air is blowing from the dash would allow for cold a/c thru the dash vents w/o any clicking at startup?
Yes.

Marco
06-29-12, 12:43 AM
Yes.

Thanks Ranger, it worked! Last night I tried to replace the actuator in our 2000 deville, but the shaft is different like stated in several threads.
I opened up the old actuator and found 2-3 teeth missing from the large plastic gear. Opened up the new actuator to see if I could swap gears but it's large gear is part of the newly designed shaft.
Bummer.
Glad I had read this thread and seen mberlant's post. I have no mode function but am happy to have cold air from the dash vents and no infernal clicking.
I removed the flared portion of the ductwork with a fine hacksaw blade. It was a little tricky having to becareful not to cut into the wiring directly beside the duct.
I did not remove the other actuator to gain access, no need.

If I should ever want to replace the entire assembly then I could see the need to remove the other actuator.

I am more than a little peaved at GM's lack of original parts support. I've had 25 yr old Mercedes and parts were still available when I sold it.

My last repair work on this Caddy was replacing the rear shocks, went OEM and got gabriel hi-jackers as gm 's replacement shocks. They seized up and I eventually went with Monroe and have had no problems.

coastdriver
08-11-12, 09:44 AM
My problem is the same as Brian's. My passenger side gets cool but driver's side just blows warm air. Has anyone else had this problem and how was it solved?

Oldcaster
08-11-12, 06:11 PM
Coast, this thread may help you, its the actuator and is fixable, but your going to need to do some troubleshooting.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/264463-help-mode-door-issues-2003-sls.html#post3023455

That should get you pointed in the right direction. all the best - Brian

Don S
08-27-12, 11:11 AM
Another Mode Door Actuator fixed with the help of this thread! Started getting the "clicks" about 2 weeks ago and then it started clicking every time I started the car with the temperature control system on. Replaced this part and now have no more clicking! Thanks for the detailed instructions :cool:

craneblake
12-08-12, 02:12 PM
Just replaced mine yesterday. Wanted to say a huge thank you for this write up. I could not have done it without it!

bigjoeb
01-01-13, 05:56 PM
Hello,

I am new here and have sort of a similar issue. All my vents work and can switch them back and forth. My issue is the heat takes a long time to blow through. I play with temp control a bit before it finally shows itself.lol.. Any ideas? 2001 deville

Jungle George
01-05-13, 02:12 PM
Does air blow when you have it set to the highest temperature setting specially from the bottom vents??? if you have cold air and then it finally warms up you may have a partially clogged heater radiator. If you haven't flushed your system in a long time means that when you flush it you find things leaking, so if I was you I would live with it. Been there done that... Once I flushed the engine to replace the coolant I had to replace the radiator, the water pump cover seal ring, the reservoir, and now I have another seal behind the pump leaking. So I ordered the whole enchilada (pump, gaskets, o-rings, thermostat) I will remove the whole water distribution plenum out and replace everything.

Ranger
01-05-13, 09:11 PM
This section is for tips and repair procedures. Questions go in the appropriate model section.

joelbruck
02-09-13, 10:22 PM
Great how-to. Thanks! I have a 2001 DTS and was able to replace just the actuator without removing any other actuators or cutting the duct work. With the guidance of these great pictures, I was able to do the work blindly with my left hand reached over the duct from behind (I am left-handed, so perhaps this made it easier). Anyhow, after 45 minutes all-told, she's as good as new. Thanks again!

joeschmoe
04-02-13, 10:24 PM
actually the new part does fit, perfect. I wanna thank all the posters on this subject, I was able to repair my 02 dts in 1.5 hrs. and didnt have to cut the duct, although i did get scraped up alot more than necessary had I cut it. the old style on the left was just like mine, however, if you remove the aluminum shank that is left on the big white plastic wheel, it fits the new style one . Thanks again to everyone.

apachedawg
04-16-13, 07:56 PM
I've got an 04 Seville. I followed these instructions, ordered the mode door actuator from Amazon. Got the part pictured and today I went out took the car apart and after getting the old actuator out I found that although they look the same the plugs were keyed differently and the old one had 5 or 6 pins in it not 2 like the replacement. So I pulled out the other 2 actuators and none of them have the same plug as the new one. So what is going on. Is there a different part I need to order? Thank in advance for the help.

joepach
07-08-13, 02:06 PM
great article and great additional comments. i think i can do this now. tks, joe p

Submariner409
08-03-13, 01:14 PM
Jamjohnson2, Problem is, You're posting in a "How-to" forum, not a "How do I ...? " forum. If the info in here is insufficient to guide you, you need to ask the question up in the Deville forum.

I'll leave this reply here and move your two posts to their own thread up in Deville - "HVAC Mode Door actuator replacement". You'll probably need to pull any diagnostic codes from the car's built-in scanner to find out which door actuator is giving the problem - and i don't believe there's any vacuum involved in your 2000 Deville door control system.

Jamjohnson2
08-03-13, 04:17 PM
I understand your point of view, but as far as the black ducting, I feel that's relevant to the article. Anyhow, thanks.

04GrandAmGT
08-21-13, 03:34 PM
i have the Clicking on my 01 dts if i change the mode before it starts clicking (usually about 10 sec after startup) i can change it to the vents and such but after its done clicking it stuck at the vent, also my driver side is a touch warmer than the passenger side would that be the same motor or am i going to have to replace 2?

brzys
12-23-13, 10:28 PM
I searched and read all of the forums on this subject as I could find.
I printed this thread out and took it on this past saturday.
Yup, pain in the backside. Yup, lower vent was in the way.
Yup, hands all scratched up, and neck still sore. Yup, nylon
rings were all cracked in the old gears. Yup, got it done and now
have heat to my defrosters and everywhere else.

Yup, saved a ton of money doin it myself - 53.00 total cost.

bbi2963
01-01-14, 11:38 AM
Hardheaded me, I removed too many screws and ended up with the door actuator wheel and a couple of the actuator levers on the floorboard. No problem, I'll just put them back in place and pop the wheel back in position. Wrong! I spent two days fiddling with it, unable to find the
"secret combination" which allows everything to sync properly. So after FINALLY figuring it out, I'd like to offer insight to others who might find themselves in the same predicament. To allow the lower floor control lever to move into the correct position to align with the groove in the actuator
wheel, you must first pull down on the vent control lever (the upper one nearest the vent outlets). But to allow the vent control door to move into
the position necessary to allow the floor control lever to move freely, you must first pull down on the defrost control lever (the one nearest the
firewall). That being said, these steps must be followed, in this order: 1) pull down on the defrost control lever 2) pull down on the vent control
lever 3) push up on the floor control lever.
Now align the floor control lever tab in its wheel groove and carefully slide the wheel's center "shaft" in position onto the pivot stud. Next, align the vent control lever tab in its groove and lastly, align the defrost control lever tab in the same groove that the vent control lever rides in. Holding the wheel in place (I used a long Phillips screwdriver to put pressure on the wheel's center stud), rotate it to verify proper movement of all three doors.
To be sure the wheel didn't fall off, I kept pressure on it with the Phillips while installing the cover and also while installing the actuator motor.

2002CarriageTopDevil
02-14-14, 11:10 AM
Wait, what? Are you (or anyone else) saying that simply removing the electrical connector once the air is blowing from the dash would allow for cold a/c thru the dash vents w/o any clicking at startup?
The only controllable feature would be fan speed then?
IF so, I could live with that for now.
Problem is 2 days ago, I lost the dash vents.. So I may need to see if I can hand turn the wheel to get the dash vents mode back.
Please, anyone who has info feel free to chime in.

i did exactly this with my broken MDA, all i care about is cold a/c in my face... took me 30 minutes and cost zero. thanks CF.