: Idler Pulley and Tensioner bolts



caddyshack24
09-13-04, 09:45 PM
I always thought a harmonic damper was causing my crankshaft pulley to wobble. This might not be the case. The other night my Idle Pulley completly fell apart. Looks like the power steering hose screw severed the belt setting off the reactions. I bought a new belt and Idle Pulley from Advanced Auto Parts for 20$ a peice. Snagged the routing diagram and im ready to do this. Any special tools i'll need to loosen the Tensioner and remove the Idler pulley bolt??

Made it a few good miles (8 or so), no power steering.. car wouldnt shift
Wouldnt move unless you went to about 5k RPM. Battery coulndt charge (alternator wasnt being driven) -- all in all pretty crazy night. :yup:

for anybody who scans the thread:
Any special tools i'll need to loosen the Tensioner and remove the Idler pulley bolt?? :)

El Dobro
09-13-04, 10:07 PM
Standard metric sockets and a 1/2" breaker bar are all you should need.

kcnewell
09-14-04, 10:57 PM
Make yourself a tool out of a piece of scrap 3/8 steel tubing. Bend a 2 inch "L" on one end . Use it as a third hand to reach down in between the chassis and the engine to manipulate the new belt into the correct position. Beats ruining your hands jamming them down in there. You can also work thru the right side wheel well to install the belt on the lower pulleys. Remove the wheel and the splash shields and you can see the crank pulley and lower pulleys easily.

The damper may appear to have some runout as the outer surface is a cast surface and is not machined....so it may have some slight irregularities that appear as runout. Not the case. The thing that governs the belt track is the grooves machined into the outer diameter of the damper. If you look carefully, those are almost always perfectly straight and true even if the damper appears to have runout. Since the damper is balanced idependently of the crank it takes any casting irregularities into account.

PMBLACK12
09-15-04, 05:26 PM
Hey KC? Just out of curiosity, why would the car not shift and go to almost 5K RPM before it would move just because the belt broke. Is it a glitch in the computer or something if it doesn't have enough voltage to it. Normally the only thing that happens when a belt breaks is that you lose your power steering, A/C, and alternator, and possibly the car shuts off if the battery voltage goes too low. Could this have been a freak thing or is it something that is common to these cars when the belt breaks. Just wondering?

kcnewell
09-15-04, 10:09 PM
Hey KC? Just out of curiosity, why would the car not shift and go to almost 5K RPM before it would move just because the belt broke. Is it a glitch in the computer or something if it doesn't have enough voltage to it. Normally the only thing that happens when a belt breaks is that you lose your power steering, A/C, and alternator, and possibly the car shuts off if the battery voltage goes too low. Could this have been a freak thing or is it something that is common to these cars when the belt breaks. Just wondering?



Off hand I wouldn't associate the broken belt with the trans problems you describe. Possibly if the voltage got so low the shift solenoids started to drop out the trans might have started to act funny...could happen I guess. If you replace the belt and the symptoms disappear I would chalk it up to that. The shift solenoids are 12 volt devices so they might get somewhat flaky acting at low voltages but I would honestly expect them to work to the point the PCM dropped out due to low voltage..but I never really tried that.