: Drilling holes in engine for Jakes Kit. . .best tool?



miwise
09-05-10, 06:32 PM
What's the best tool I can use to drill the initial holes and maybe even tap the holes for Jake's stud kit? I'm considering renting some sort of press or something. Is there a good tool to ensure the hole is perpendicular to the deck? My uncle has a drill press with a magnetic base but I'm afraid it won't work b/c it only sticks to steel.

miwise
09-05-10, 06:37 PM
By the way, I pulled the engine from the top this time. It came out very easy. Much easier than expected. I had the mechanic helping me. He's trying to help with me to get the car right this time. I'm trying to avoid machine shop costs but may wind up just taking the bits to them and having them do it when they do the heads.

Ranger
09-05-10, 10:22 PM
Just use a hand drill. Once it starts in the existing hole should guide the bit, or you could buy or make a guide to start the bit.

miwise
09-06-10, 09:00 AM
I have the plate that comes with jakes kit. I guess I'll use that. Just wanted something to make them as precise as inhumanly possible.

Submariner409
09-06-10, 11:22 AM
I have the plate that comes with jakes kit. I guess I'll use that. Just wanted something to make them as precise as inhumanly possible.

If you have a closet full of money you could have a good machine shop make a hardened steel drill guide block. You would then have to calculate the proper drill stop setting for hole depth......and you could rent the block out to other DIYers to recoup a few $$$.

97EldoCoupe
09-06-10, 11:41 AM
Finally. Had to install Mozilla Firefox to browse the forums again. Internet Explorer would not allow me in anymore.

There is an upgrade coming soon for the stud kit. Upgrade #1 has been implemented- all studs are rolled now, smoother, stronger, more precise and concentric.

Drill bits- I send out the best bits that I can get. These are made in the USA and sharp as a razor. They cut the aluminum very nicely. These have a pre-set stop on them.

97EldoCoupe
09-06-10, 11:51 AM
Finally. Had to install Mozilla Firefox to browse the forums again. Internet Explorer would not allow me in anymore.

There is an upgrade coming soon for the stud kit. Upgrade #1 has been implemented- all studs are rolled now, smoother, stronger, more precise and concentric.

Drill bits- I send out the best bits that I can get. These are made in the USA and sharp as a razor. They cut the aluminum very nicely. These have a pre-set stop on them.

miwise
09-06-10, 12:17 PM
Nothing wrong with your kit jake, I just question my ablility to get the hole precisely perpendicular to the block deck. LOL

98eldo32v
09-07-10, 12:53 AM
I had always wondered how easy the motor came out the top.

I understand that the "factory" procedure is to drop the cradle, most of the time "factory" procedures mean dealership and lifts.

This type of repair being done at home would offer some interesting challenges without being able to raise the vehicle high enough to lower the cradle. I know that it has been performed by many here.

The time invested to loosen the associated parts to drop the cradle AND then separate the engine from the trans, seemed more time consuming to me at least.

Good to hear that it came out pretty easy.

That's the route I'm planning to go........

Pete315
09-07-10, 11:37 PM
I have taken out the engine in my Eldorado both ways, out the top and lowering the cradle. Dropping the cradle is the way to go. I don't disconnect the wiring from the PCM.

RippyPartsDept
09-07-10, 11:48 PM
yeah, we drop it in our shop too, but then we've got lifts etc

ejguillot
09-08-10, 12:59 AM
Finally. Had to install Mozilla Firefox to browse the forums again. Internet Explorer would not allow me in anymore.

There is an upgrade coming soon for the stud kit. Upgrade #1 has been implemented- all studs are rolled now, smoother, stronger, more precise and concentric.

Drill bits- I send out the best bits that I can get. These are made in the USA and sharp as a razor. They cut the aluminum very nicely. These have a pre-set stop on them.

I can attest to this. The drill bit I got with Jake's kit worked great, and had no wear problems at all. I found the kit Jake included with his studs to work very well, with a bit of practice (the 2nd bank drilled had the holes better aligned than the first). Get a good 1/2" drill, have a friend help you (he can double check your work), and take it slow and easy when you drill the holes.

The important thing: Make sure that you have the drill plate PERFECTLY centered over the hole you're going to drill! Use a flashlight and have your assistant double check your placement of the plate, particularly after you have torqued down the retaining bolts and are ready to drill.

Second, get the drill perfectly perpendicular to the deck, so the drilled out hole stays lined up correctly. What I did: After the 2nd or 3rd hole drilled, there is a very small gap between the bit and the hole in the plate that you align over the hole you're going to drill. Make that gap even (and keep it that way), and the hole you drill will be properly aligned and ready for tapping (which is much easier than drilling). Remember to use a LOT of WD-40 when drilling and tapping!

miwise
09-09-10, 11:02 PM
These all sound like great suggestions. I decided not to mess with the kit just yet. I'm dropping the engine in since it has a warranty and if they go out I'll drive it to someone to take care of. BTW, I really think the top removal was the way to go. If you remove the radiator this gives you access to the ac compressor and the alternator. Remove those, remove the engine mount. as you lift the engine you have to tilt the engine toward the firewall so the exhaust clears but it came right out. very few issues. And I was happy not to have to disconnect the damned steering linkage again. LOL. Went extremely smoothly. Very quick. I definitely prefer the top removal. Just have a swivel and all. Take off accessories. Good to go.

Hardest part is mating engine to tranny upon installation.

Pete315
09-11-10, 12:03 AM
that's why if you're doing head gaskets, you should drop it out the bottom so you don't have to separate the tranny from the engine. now if you have to do the mid case seal, then I can see going out the top. I never had a problem removing and installing the steering knuckle. I found removing 2 calipers, 6 bolts from strut mounts and 6 subframe bolts and lot easier then splitting engine from tranny.

miwise
09-11-10, 01:53 PM
I hear ya. If I were using the same engine that would have been the way I would have gone. I opted to swap out the engine.