: Loose Shifter Linkage????



BlackedouT STS
08-24-10, 05:56 PM
When I put my car in gear i hear a metallic (metal on metal) clanking sound. I can only hear it when my windows are down. Also, the shifter doesn't feel as solid as it used to. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be a loose shifter linkage? If so, can I fix it myself or do I need to take it to the dealer?

next2pool
08-24-10, 05:59 PM
When I put my car in gear i hear a metallic (metal on metal) clanking sound. I can only hear it when my windows are down. Also, the shifter doesn't feel as solid as it used to. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be a loose shifter linkage? If so, can I fix it myself or do I need to take it to the dealer?

Off hand that sounds like a bad engine mount or a rear diff bushing.

BlackedouT STS
08-26-10, 04:28 PM
Off hand that sounds like a bad engine mount or a rear diff bushing.

I will check my motor and transmission mounts as well as the rear diff bushing, but the sound is directly related to the shifter. as soon as the shifter goes into gear I hear the noise. Any other thoughts????

next2pool
08-26-10, 07:21 PM
I will check my motor and transmission mounts as well as the rear diff bushing, but the sound is directly related to the shifter. as soon as the shifter goes into gear I hear the noise. Any other thoughts????

Is it a one time noise or does it continue once you put it in gear?

BlackedouT STS
08-26-10, 10:22 PM
Is it a one time noise or does it continue once you put it in gear?


No, it only does it when you select a gear or shift to park.

next2pool
08-27-10, 12:03 AM
No, it only does it when you select a gear or shift to park.

Well that insinuates it is due to a torque reaction. When you shift into gear (or the other way around) the torque the engine generates at idle speed is reacted by the entire drivetrain including the braking system. So, anything from the torque converter back can cause this. That can include engine mounts, U-joints, brake pads and calipers, and diff carrier. The fact that your shift linkage feels vague points towards engine mounts or even the shift lever connection at the trans. Frankly, I doubt it is anything serious. These cars do have some issues with engine mounts and diff carrier bushings.

sts_meyers
08-31-10, 11:58 PM
I had the same noise clanking problem with my 05. There is a two peice bar linkage assembly that has a rubber grommet in the middle. If you are a handy guy, you can remove one end of the likage from the side of the transmission and remove the other end from the shifter under the car. When you pull it out you will see what I mean. I rebuilt mine using teflon grommets and supplies from the local home depot. A grinder and drill press are almost required.

BlackedouT STS
09-03-10, 01:01 PM
sts_myers,

Thank you for the information, I will look at it next week. I think that is probably the problem considering I hear the sound before the transmission actually shifts.

Sgm975
09-04-10, 01:45 PM
I have a 2005 Cadillac STS with 33,000 miles, just dropped it off in the shop yesterday. Same noise, was the transmisison linkage cable and engine mounts. I bought an extended warranty with the car and thank god it's getting picked up by them. The car also has a small coolant leak. It's very odd because my car has always been garaged, no accidents, with all maintenance done and no after market parts. I love my Cadillac but I just can't believe at 33,000 Miles it can have these problems.

EChas3
09-05-10, 12:17 AM
5 years is a long time for rubber.

Cadillac_STS
05-04-11, 12:29 PM
I have the same problem. The shift lever feels soft and tricky to put into Gears, especially the shifts from D to N and D to 4 and vise versa.
I took it to the dealer and he immediately said that it is the linkage and they replaced it, the problem, the gear shifter feels worst. I have had my engine mounts replaced before.

I still have problems in the gear shifter it feels loose, but I have no idea how the new one feels like. It is ok when it is in P, but when I put it in D, it actually moves about 1 cm up and down!

SwampAngel
09-12-11, 12:51 PM
Alright, same subject with a few additions....
I can't seem to find a thread where this is already covered...
I'm having problems with my shift linkage being very loose, and I can plainly see down into the trans that it has a lot of room for unnecessary movement at the tranny. this I can deal with, it just takes a second to wiggle the shifter into gear..... however.... I was wondering if someone knew if this relates to my real problem.

I cant seem to describe the noise correctly or find the right term in the search engine, google or anywhere.

I get in, start the car, wiggle into drive. it happens in 2,3, or drive.

if i pity the gas pedal, no more than 1/8 the way to floor, it is fine.

if pressed just a little closer to halfway down, it starts slipping, klanking. not loud, but plainly noticeable and annoying performance wise.

doesnt seem like it should be a "shifting" problem because its not time to switch gears but rather, the gear its in just starts faltering

keep in mind, i am on flat gound, only trying to get the car up to 35-45. past that its a whole different story.

if i use extreme ease with acceleration, it can usually baby its way up into a comfortable spot in rpms, and stay happy with no studdering

til i get to another red light and have to start over again, that is.

the kentuckian i bought it from promised the only repairs needed were "transmission mounts" and swaybar

now, the steering, swaybar issue (2 pins on ends i think), shift linkage are all things i can figure out, but
with the shifting/rattling, well thats stumping my usually on point do-it-yourselfer enginuity

sorry if this is out of subject, i just joined this forum and this is my first caddy 1983 (a year older than me), ive always done my own work on my vehicles and want to learn

could loose shift linkage and trans mounts offset something in the way the tranny lines up to make a rattle and refuse to stay in gear/create choppy and fluttery shifting?

pleeeease? thank you

EChas3
09-21-11, 11:09 PM
Broken motor mounts?

MacMuse
09-22-11, 01:31 AM
SwampAngel,

You have an '83 Seville? You should post this description in the http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/ forum. The regulars over there may have more experience with this issue. This area you posted in is for 2005 and newer STS.

goustarhs
02-15-12, 03:26 PM
I can say with 100% certainty that this is a "shifter linkage" issue.
In fact it is just the little rubber grommet on the shift linkage that fell off after becoming worn and dried out.
To test this as the root cause,.. get in your car,.. lower the window,.. turn the key only to engage the electrical and shift WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR,.. now begin to shift the gear, at which time you will hear a "metal clinking or tinging type sound",.. this is loose linkage that is pinging against the two (2) parts that make this simple lever mechanism because the rubber grommet has fallen out of the axis. This is how you know you have a shifter linkage issue for certain.

The "shifter linkage" part is responsible for the shifter being tight and not sloppy as well as quiet absent of a "metal clinking or tinging noise"
The parts sells for $110.81 new GM Part No 15245220 for the adjustable version and $81.70 NEW GM Part No 25756336 for the fixed version.

I changed mine out for a new one and have the used one left over. All that is needed to make it work perfectly is a $3.00 rubber grommet you can purchase separately from a hardware or autoparts store but not from GM. If I knew that in advance,.. I would not have replaced my shift linkage at a cost of $220 from my local rip-off dealer. email questions, or if need more info or more photos see this link http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2852907922.html


BY THE WAY ,... Someone else on this blog string mentioned the DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING as the cause of the metal clicking,.. WRONG for sure,..I know because I had both issues occur. A BAD DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING noise is a massive THUD or CLUNK sound and is violent and abrupt only occurring while the engine is on and when shifting the gear while the engine is on,.. and also occurs when accelerating or releases your foot off the gas pedal abruptly. I have experienced this issue also ,.. changing the differential bushing required removal of the differential by first removing the drive axles,..and that required the use of a special GM dealer only J-TOOL part No. J-44394 Kent-Moore Differential Seal Tool. The differential bushing is $25.00 but the dealer wants $600 labor for 5 hours to do the job,.. however my local Goodyear store did it in 2 hours and charged me $200 labor and I paid $25.00 for the part so I felt good with my decision to tell the dealer to blow off.
see this link for the J tool needed - http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2835168112.html

Kind Regards to all

caddyfat2
02-16-12, 06:56 PM
Broken motor mounts?
I just had my motor mounts replaced by the dealer and I have the same problem. When putting in gear I hear the clanking noise.

willysmooo
03-17-12, 07:23 PM
Goustarhs.....did you need to buy the actual linkage??? Or did you honestly just need the rubber grommet??? Im kindy handy so if I jack the car up I should probably be able to see it im assuming....any idea what size grommet??? Or is it basically a piece of rubber that you can put the bolt through that hooks up to the tranny???? Thanks

willysmooo
03-20-12, 10:52 AM
Just FYI, if anyone has a 2007 and newer, the correct part# is 22822706. Its about 59 bucks and one nut from the shifter and one nut from the trans. After researching and ordering the part I wasnt going to rebuild it to save 45 bucks or so...not to mention my time, a couple hunded??? ya I probably would of. The part# above is actually a new part number(for the ATS and XTS).....the old # is 15780844...both will work(same part basically, besides a better bushing probably, and the new part# is $1 cheaper). I just couldnt understand why the other guy listed 2 part numbers, I kept thinking one was for the aluminum piece and the other for the steel rod.

willysmooo
03-24-12, 04:10 PM
Addendum to my last...dont know why i cant edit..but anyway the new part# is for sure the one you want...and its 47bucks, not 59. The engineers at GM have recognized this linkage issue, because on the new one I picked up yesterday.... it has a big rubber bushing type thing..that basically keeps that sucker in place getting rid of vibrations etc....should of been done earlier..but just in time for the ATS and XTS, and anyone that takes the car to the dealer to have this done(unless warranty) shouldnt. It took me 35 min and most of that was putting the car on jack stands( because I hate being under a car like that).....100% the sloppy shifter is gone and quiet as new........I set it a little back to make sure it has pressure toward the D position.

gabbylbk
06-11-12, 08:56 PM
Do you know the part number for the differential bushing and where you got it from? local dealer says it doesn't exist.

gabbylbk
06-11-12, 08:58 PM
I can say with 100% certainty that this is a "shifter linkage" issue.
In fact it is just the little rubber grommet on the shift linkage that fell off after becoming worn and dried out.
To test this as the root cause,.. get in your car,.. lower the window,.. turn the key only to engage the electrical and shift WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR,.. now begin to shift the gear, at which time you will hear a "metal clinking or tinging type sound",.. this is loose linkage that is pinging against the two (2) parts that make this simple lever mechanism because the rubber grommet has fallen out of the axis. This is how you know you have a shifter linkage issue for certain.

The "shifter linkage" part is responsible for the shifter being tight and not sloppy as well as quiet absent of a "metal clinking or tinging noise"
The parts sells for $110.81 new GM Part No 15245220 for the adjustable version and $81.70 NEW GM Part No 25756336 for the fixed version.

I changed mine out for a new one and have the used one left over. All that is needed to make it work perfectly is a $3.00 rubber grommet you can purchase separately from a hardware or autoparts store but not from GM. If I knew that in advance,.. I would not have replaced my shift linkage at a cost of $220 from my local rip-off dealer. email questions, or if need more info or more photos see this link http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2852907922.html


BY THE WAY ,... Someone else on this blog string mentioned the DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING as the cause of the metal clicking,.. WRONG for sure,..I know because I had both issues occur. A BAD DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING noise is a massive THUD or CLUNK sound and is violent and abrupt only occurring while the engine is on and when shifting the gear while the engine is on,.. and also occurs when accelerating or releases your foot off the gas pedal abruptly. I have experienced this issue also ,.. changing the differential bushing required removal of the differential by first removing the drive axles,..and that required the use of a special GM dealer only J-TOOL part No. J-44394 Kent-Moore Differential Seal Tool. The differential bushing is $25.00 but the dealer wants $600 labor for 5 hours to do the job,.. however my local Goodyear store did it in 2 hours and charged me $200 labor and I paid $25.00 for the part so I felt good with my decision to tell the dealer to blow off.
see this link for the J tool needed - http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2835168112.html

Kind Regards to all



part # for differential bushing and where did you get it?

caddyfat2
06-11-12, 09:15 PM
I just had my motor mounts replaced by the dealer and I have the same problem. When putting in gear I hear the clanking noise.

Had the shifter repaired and it was the shifter linkage. Now it's as quiet as a sleeping baby.

juscuz6969
09-26-12, 04:24 AM
Does anyone have the part # or schematic for the differential bushing? I have that same thud when increasing and decrease the foot pounds per square inch on my gas pedal.

dcliff
07-01-13, 02:34 PM
I have 2005 STS and have the same problem. When shifting into reverse or drive there is a pretty loud metallic clanging sound. I attached a photo of the missing bushing from the connection. This photo is from under the car and where the shifter assembly connects to the rod you show in your pictures. I was going to try and remedy myself, but the unit is riveted together and would require more work than I am capable of doing with my limited tools. I am not sure if a rubber washer will completely fix the situation, since it appears there needs to be something that wraps around the bolt that will tighten the connection.

The blue plastic items shown look like they would work, but they look like they are not exactly the right size. Where can I get the blue plastic items?

1BadCadSTS
07-01-13, 02:52 PM
I see no picture.

Poundman
08-18-13, 06:43 PM
I have 2005 STS and have the same problem. When shifting into reverse or drive there is a pretty loud metallic clanging sound. I attached a photo of the missing bushing from the connection. This photo is from under the car and where the shifter assembly connects to the rod you show in your pictures. I was going to try and remedy myself, but the unit is riveted together and would require more work than I am capable of doing with my limited tools. I am not sure if a rubber washer will completely fix the situation, since it appears there needs to be something that wraps around the bolt that will tighten the connection.

The blue plastic items shown look like they would work, but they look like they are not exactly the right size. Where can I get the blue plastic items?

I would like to see the picture also

mckellyb
08-19-13, 12:03 PM
After having the pan/valve body off mine a few times in the past several weeks, Pearl, my '05, developed this exact same problem.

Looks like I get to go back under there, 'cause the sloppiness is both annoying, and I know I'm going to accidentally get the incorrect gear, at some point.

madtuner
08-19-13, 01:02 PM
I have the same issue and as soon as I heard the sound on the STS I knew exactly what it was (having dealt with this issue prior on a 3-series BMW with the same transmission).

Unfortunately on the STS, the whole linkage is a single piece, unlike the BMWs (where you can replace just the bushing - shown as part of item #8 in the following link):

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E53/SAV/USA/X5_4.4i-N62/LHD/N/2005/december/browse/gearshift/gear_shift_steptronic_all_wheel_drive/

I've decided not to bother with mine for the time being, but I might attempt to retrofit a BMW style nut and bolt setup at some point.

mckellyb
08-20-13, 02:05 AM
Agreed, madtuner.

I'm going to be creative, if need be. On my W126 Mercedes, it was a simple $2 bushing and 30 minutes of work.

Poundman
08-25-13, 11:29 PM
I can say with 100% certainty that this is a "shifter linkage" issue.
In fact it is just the little rubber grommet on the shift linkage that fell off after becoming worn and dried out.
To test this as the root cause,.. get in your car,.. lower the window,.. turn the key only to engage the electrical and shift WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR,.. now begin to shift the gear, at which time you will hear a "metal clinking or tinging type sound",.. this is loose linkage that is pinging against the two (2) parts that make this simple lever mechanism because the rubber grommet has fallen out of the axis. This is how you know you have a shifter linkage issue for certain.

The "shifter linkage" part is responsible for the shifter being tight and not sloppy as well as quiet absent of a "metal clinking or tinging noise"
The parts sells for $110.81 new GM Part No 15245220 for the adjustable version and $81.70 NEW GM Part No 25756336 for the fixed version.

I changed mine out for a new one and have the used one left over. All that is needed to make it work perfectly is a $3.00 rubber grommet you can purchase separately from a hardware or autoparts store but not from GM. If I knew that in advance,.. I would not have replaced my shift linkage at a cost of $220 from my local rip-off dealer. email questions, or if need more info or more photos see this link http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2852907922.html


BY THE WAY ,... Someone else on this blog string mentioned the DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING as the cause of the metal clicking,.. WRONG for sure,..I know because I had both issues occur. A BAD DIFFERENTIAL BUSHING noise is a massive THUD or CLUNK sound and is violent and abrupt only occurring while the engine is on and when shifting the gear while the engine is on,.. and also occurs when accelerating or releases your foot off the gas pedal abruptly. I have experienced this issue also ,.. changing the differential bushing required removal of the differential by first removing the drive axles,..and that required the use of a special GM dealer only J-TOOL part No. J-44394 Kent-Moore Differential Seal Tool. The differential bushing is $25.00 but the dealer wants $600 labor for 5 hours to do the job,.. however my local Goodyear store did it in 2 hours and charged me $200 labor and I paid $25.00 for the part so I felt good with my decision to tell the dealer to blow off.
see this link for the J tool needed - http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/2835168112.html

Kind Regards to all

Any pictures of the grommet you used to stop the noise? Did you do yourself?

956Caddy
10-05-13, 01:02 AM
Just did mine this evening , about 30-45min job. I used a piece of fuel hose cut in half long ways,then cut the width the same as linkage. Then put TWO flat water hose washers on EACH side of linkage and it made it very snug and tight fit to where it linkage cant swing without force. Will get pictures if anyone wants them. Thabks to Fellow guys that helped out

caddyfreaks
10-05-13, 12:12 PM
I too have the shifter linkage problem,how did you access it? From removing the shifter itself ?

956Caddy
10-05-13, 12:43 PM
I jacked up the passenger side, crawled underneath looked on the right passenger side of tranny, there is a shaft/nut and a rod that connects to.the shifterlever coming out of the floor pan. Then un screwed the 10mm nut let it hang.and with one hand held the connecting rod and with a 13mm wrench unbolted the rod that.connects to the tranny..

caddyfreaks
10-05-13, 07:28 PM
Pics would be awesome!

956Caddy
10-08-13, 10:58 PM
This weekend cause I got school and am loaded with work. Sorry

caddyfreaks
10-09-13, 12:53 PM
No problem,i figured it out, it was pretty easy!

956Caddy
10-09-13, 12:58 PM
Sounds alot better ey. Now I just have to fix the rear clunk when I press and release the gas and front squeky noise. And any other bushings I can buy.

Lifer
11-17-13, 09:01 PM
I jacked up the passenger side, crawled underneath looked on the right passenger side of tranny, there is a shaft/nut and a rod that connects to.the shifterlever coming out of the floor pan. Then un screwed the 10mm nut let it hang.and with one hand held the connecting rod and with a 13mm wrench unbolted the rod that.connects to the tranny..

I replaced my shift rod with the correct adjustable one. The shifting has been sloppy ever since. So, I jacked the car up and revisited the installation. I discovered that the adjustable piece was shipped and installed loose so it could be adjusted when installing. I then tightened the nut - 10mm- and she works like a new one. Be sure to tighten that item or it will shift sloppy.

fly187
11-18-13, 12:03 PM
Sounds like some fraudulent shop did some motor mounts.
I have a 2005 Cadillac STS with 33,000 miles, just dropped it off in the shop yesterday. Same noise, was the transmisison linkage cable and engine mounts. I bought an extended warranty with the car and thank god it's getting picked up by them. The car also has a small coolant leak. It's very odd because my car has always been garaged, no accidents, with all maintenance done and no after market parts. I love my Cadillac but I just can't believe at 33,000 Miles it can have these problems.

RUFNEKACE
05-07-14, 02:28 PM
Thank you for this thread! This is exactly the information i was looking for!