: question about new rebuild on 99 sts

07-27-10, 04:59 PM
Sounds good to me. :-). I do have another question though now. It seems that the valve train is very noisy Mostly near the rear of the engine. I added more oil b/c it's been burning oil (new rings and bearings) but the valves seem to be very very noisy. No overheating or anything though. I took it out on one trip so far to town and back. By the time i got back the valve noise was very distinct. Had a tick tick tick sound when running. I think something's wrong. Almost like not enough oil is getting to the rear of the engine. I put about 80 miles on the car so far. I did go up to approximately 3000 rpm once. For the most part hovered b/w 2000 and 2500 rpm the whole trip.

07-27-10, 05:20 PM
Ticking and valve train noise is usually due to wear in a hydraulic lash system.

Your engine was the last year to use flat tappet cam followers. 2000+ went to roller cams. The 1999 and back are prone to dishing the followers with subsequent cam lobe damage. ANY thought of overhaul should include a complete cylinder head(s) teardown and inspection - valve seals, cams, bearings, and followers (and make no mistake: cams and followers are literally worth their weight in gold - today's gold !).

There was a thread (in the Northstar Performance Forum) done by Jake (www.northstarperformance.com) last fall with a bunch of pictures of worn followers and cams, and another by someone else where the follower had actually worn through, hit the valve retainer, and dropped the valve into the cylinder.

07-27-10, 05:30 PM
I'll look that up. I had them tested at a local machine shop. They said the heads were good. IDK. I'm gonna check into the pics of those tho.

07-27-10, 05:31 PM
It sounds almost like theres no oil getting to the last valves near the side with the waterpump.

07-27-10, 07:38 PM
Do you think that it just needs to be broken in some more? Scared to run it as is. I read a post about using thinner engine oil. May try that when I get back. I left the car in alexandria for now.

07-27-10, 07:49 PM
Also, how critical is it that the harmonic balancer be torqued down. Could this be the problem? Could I maybe not have torqued it enough and the oil pump not be giving me the oil flow required?

07-27-10, 11:32 PM
It is EXTREMELY important. The clamping force is what drives the oil pump. Not enough torque and the oil pump does not work.

07-28-10, 09:28 AM
I thought I got it tight but gonna Check. :-(

07-28-10, 10:04 AM
Exactly how tight should it be?

07-28-10, 10:19 AM
I think the spec is 37 ft/lbs + 120 degrees.... That ended up being pretty tight when I did mine.... Not sure you can overtighten it.

07-28-10, 12:24 PM

37 ft/lb + 120 degrees. The flexplate needs to be locked to reach that torque.

You'll need to remove the RF wheel and fenderwell liner for clear access to the harmonic balancer bolt and then lock the flexplate using the inspection port between the bottom of the transmission and engine block. Either a wooden wedge or an assistant with small crow bar to lock the gear.

07-28-10, 01:00 PM
Hi miwise,
on another post you talked about some headlights at your local salvage yard.

Could you email me when you have time?

basscatt at hotmail dot com


07-28-10, 04:09 PM
That's cool basscat. I emailed you. Just let me know. I'll do whatever I can to help ya. Thanks sub!! Sounds doable. I didn't have a torque wrench. I believe I need to tighten it more. Gonna get my dads torque wrench and go do that today probably.

07-28-10, 05:17 PM
Micah, I go beyond 250 ft. lbs. I am very picky about torque on that bolt. That 250 ft. lbs is with the bolt soaked in penetrating lubricant and also WD-40 on the inside of the balancer. Remember to very lightly grease the outside of the balancer so the front crank seal is slightly lubed up.

When the torque wrench clicks at 250 ft. lbs, I give it a bit more. In this case; better too much than not enough. A bit of extra torque will not damage anything. Too loose it will cost an engine. If you feel the bolt begin to stretch; remove it and get another one. I've thrown out 3 or 4 so far that did not handle the torque. I know what GM recommends. I'm not exactly content with that torque.

Should the bolt ever snap in the crankshaft (crank threads will not strip out, don't worry), it will remove easily by tapping with a center punch in the counter clockwise direction or if need be; a small drill bit and an easy-out.

07-28-10, 05:26 PM
I'll try that. Funny the low oil pressure light never came on. I'm prettycertain it's the culprit tho

07-28-10, 10:51 PM
Torqued the harmonic balancer. Seems to have helped a lot. Drove it home today about `00 miles. No hitches (except ten million diagnostic codes). Of course I still have the problem with some wiring. Seems that SOMETIMES when I turn the key to start the car the car doesn't start or even turn over. Other times it starts great. I'm pretty sure I have a wire somewhere messed up. It is probably a ground honestly. No time to diagnose right now. I know that when I short the positive on the relay box to the solonoid it starts right up (I do this by closing the circuit with a jumper wire and turning the key to the on position). Also the trunk and the fuel door at times will not pop. Who knows. More electrical issues. LOL. If anyone has any ideas they sure would be welcome. Got several things to try.