I wan to lower my 07 AWD Escalade. Now before I am jumped on I have serched but no definitive answers on 2wd vs awd. I would like a 3/5 I have 26"s on it. I know there are a lot of products out there I just want to hear opinions. Also can you do the spindles with AWD?
07-12-10, 03:05 AM
McGaughy's Lowering Kits 30009/30008.The 30009 is for suv with air level ride,30008 is for non auto level ride.There kits are spindles(2" drop) for the front, springs(3" drop)for the rear and they are for AWD trucks.
07-12-10, 07:58 AM
I used a Ground Force kit 2.5" spindle front/3" spring rear. GF does sell a spring/spring kit as well. The spindle kit does require realignment. I just reset the front toe in and it was driveable, and 18" wheels would fit with trimming of lower ball joint stud. My 18" wheels would not fit though because I installed Baer Eradispeed 15" rotors at the same time which would not clear the brake calipers. This was not a problem because I had 24" Bazo's to put on but my Bazo's would not clear ANY fixed piston (i.e. any dual sided piston) calipers so I am limited by the wheels to floating calipers or would have to use wheel spacers to get the clearance. The front axle and steering angles seem to be OK with GF dropped spindles.
The rear kit includes spacers for the height sensors which retains the proper operation of the auto leveling and spacers for the rear sway bar so it clears everything. No cutting/bending of the rod was required. I also put on Hotchkiss front and rear sway bars and the Hotchkiss rear bar did not need the sway bar spacers.
After crawling around and checking clearances I found the rear axle tube will hit the inner exhaust pipe (dual Borla's) under full compression and several areas of the front and rear wheel liners needed heating and re-contouring. Also the rear pinion angle is changed when it is lowered with springs. DJM offers a kit to relocate the trailing arms to supposedly correct this issue. I did order their shock extenders to get a better shock angle and put the rear shocks closer to their original operating conditions but have not ordered their trailing arm kit because I want to set my pinion angle manually with modified trailing arms. But I will probably also have to change my transfer case from -3 degrees to +1 by shimming it up to more closely match the rear pinion angle.
3/5 is IMO a little much and although has been done by many I would suggest considerable research on the many factors and little things that could happen with that much drop. Actually would consider bagging if I wanted that much drop in the rear.
I have provided this information on what I encountered to just let you know it is more complicated and has more consequences than it seems on the surface. You need a comprehensive plan on where you are going in the future to prevent SNAFU's. Wheels/Tires and the offset has considerable impact. My 24" wheels have 35mm offset. I may still need to space the rear wheels out about 1/4" to feel comfortable even though I have clearanced the rear trailing arm mounting brackets/bolts. This would probably require new longer wheel studs for the rear axles (anybody know where to get them?). The stock Panhard rod allows considerable side movement of the rear axle and this MUST be checked to ensure the tires do not rub UNDER the significant side loads the rear encounters in turns under speed. Static checking (as I found out) does not give an accurate reflection of the clearances because the compression of the rubber bushings under load can result in more than 1/4" additional movement of the rear in ALL directions, literally.
07-13-10, 06:41 PM
I just installed a DJM 3/4 kit on my truck, contril arms in front and rear coils and hardware in back.