: can anyone recommend a good starter



ichpen
07-06-10, 09:21 AM
My stock starter had a bit of a meltdown so need to get a replacement asap. Anyone know of any good aftermarket starters that will fit in place of the stock starter. Will replace the solenoid also.

Cheers.

darkman
07-06-10, 12:08 PM
You might try powermastermotorsports dot com.

ichpen
07-06-10, 12:16 PM
Thanks darkman. Any part no? Have blackberry only internet access thanks to my internet provider so I'm going by word here.

Also need a heatshield as I suspect heat had a lot to do with it.

heavymetals
07-06-10, 12:28 PM
http://www.spiderautomotive.com/chevystarters.html

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&N=1010689&Ne=1&catalogId=10002&langId=-1

Some have restrictions about matching up to the T56.

darkman
07-06-10, 12:59 PM
Thanks darkman. Any part no? Have blackberry only internet access thanks to my internet provider so I'm going by word here.

Also need a heatshield as I suspect heat had a lot to do with it.

They list a part number 19509 for LS applications (XS Model with 200 ft. lbs of torque).

Their phone number is 630-849-7754 Tech, 630-849-4019 Sales.
e-mail is either sale or tech @ powermasterperformance dot com

Given all the LS applications and transmission combos you would probably want to talk to them.

ichpen
07-06-10, 01:10 PM
Thanks guys. Ordered the powermaster 200 ft lbs (9509). Called gm to get solenoid and apparently its part of the same starter assembly so I'm hoping new starter comes with it. Ordered new fuse box starter relay. Not sure what else I need to swap out.

ichpen
07-12-10, 04:35 PM
Update in case anyone's starter fails. Powermaster 9509 worked though it's not a direct fit (in its original orientation it will make contact with a connector). Not a problem as you can swivel the engine mounting bracket on the starter. Overall good. Starter sounds very beefy. Need to get some heatwrap as my shop ran out conveniently on the day I picked it up.

Please note nothing much bigger than this will fit with headers. It's really tight in there and the OEM starter is quite slender.

bpitas
03-27-11, 10:37 AM
Old thread, but when you changed your starter, did you figure out a way to do it without shifting the motor mount or dropping the passenger-side cat? My starter solenoid wiring is crumbled, and when I tried to get the old one out yesterday I couldn't figure out how to get it out. It seemed like the motor mount was more in the way than the cat, because it wouldn't come out of the bell housing enough to pivot all the way over to the cat, but I only played around with it for 5 minutes before coming up here to read the forums. :-)

4dr-ls6
06-17-11, 06:34 PM
Hi Guys:
The dealer tells me I need a new starter. My 2005 has 122K on the clock so I can't complain.

Of course they gave me an absolutely ridiculous estimate to change it, $925.

I think the PowerMaster 9509 is the way to go.

Can I assume the install procedure is not really too different from changing a starter in an old school Chevy 350???

.

darkman
06-17-11, 06:44 PM
Hi Guys:
The dealer tells me I need a new starter. My 2005 has 122K on the clock so I can't complain.

Of course they gave me an absolutely ridiculous estimate to change it, $925.

I think the PowerMaster 9509 is the way to go.

Can I assume the install procedure is not really too different from changing a starter in an old school Chevy 350???

.

I don't understand the $925 estimate. The MRSP on the part is $338 and the labor allowance is only 1.2 hours (excluding those environmental fees & shop supply charges than usually run $25.00 or so at dealerships).

4dr-ls6
06-17-11, 07:23 PM
He told me the starter goes for $414 and about $400 in labor to swap the starter and the connector which was fried plus taxes and other assorted BS. I just located an MSD for LS series engines for $250 delivered Monday. I'm assuming I can crimp a new connector without replacing the whole wire which is likely what Cadillac wants to do. Is the starter a relaticely simple install?

darkman
06-17-11, 07:44 PM
He told me the starter goes for $414 and about $400 in labor to swap the starter and the connector which was fried plus taxes and other assorted BS. I just located an MSD for LS series engines for $250 delivered Monday. I'm assuming I can crimp a new connector without replacing the whole wire which is likely what Cadillac wants to do. Is the starter a relaticely simple install?

The starter should be simple to install. We did have one report from a forum member that could not get the starter off the car. If I recall correctly that had to do with clearance between the starter and ground - in other words the jack stand were not tall enough. There has also been some dicussion about whether the passenger side cat has to be removed to access the starter. (Removing the passenger side cat can be trouble if you have not removed it before - the rust welds the bolt. The first time I removed my cats it took a powerful impact wrench with 1/2 inch (not 3/8) extensions and a lot of Liquid Wrnech or PB Blaster.)

Do Not Forget to Disconnect the battery first.

CadzillaTN
06-18-11, 01:10 AM
I removed my starter last time I did motor mounts because I couldn't get the cat off, and the passenger stock mount couldn't get through the gap between the starter and cat. I got the mount all buttoned up tight, and the damn starter needed 1/4 in more clearance to get back in! I had to loosen all the mount bolts to allow it to move up and away enough to get the starter back in. Not fun after hours on your back. Those parts get heavy fast..

So, I have to assume the starter isn't coming out without either loosening the mount or removing the cat, but I can't say for sure on the cat. You may have to loosen the mount.. Either way, angle it upward to remove and replace it.

I think I got the cs mount out without removing the starter, so if you have cs mounts, perhaps you can get it out without removing either one of the above.

I couldn't get my cats off cause those bolts were frozen. I pb'd those bastards all night, then used a can of freeze off...nada. It felt like I could have snapped one so I wasn't really putting the meat on it.


I say take the time and do it yourself. That's a high price to pay..

If it helps here is the gm part number for the starter I got - 89017491, and the connector 12101763.

4dr-ls6
06-18-11, 12:30 PM
Thanks again Darkman. I assume I can apply some heat (propane torcgh) to the cat bolts to loosen if need be?

darkman
06-18-11, 01:18 PM
Thanks again Darkman. I assume I can apply some heat (propane torcgh) to the cat bolts to loosen if need be?

You may be able to use a propane torch, although it is pretty close quarters. A long nose heat gun would be another alternative.

When I removed my cats for the first time I had the luxury of spreading the task over more than one day - so I was able to soak the bolts with PB Blaster several times. Even then, I had to pull out all the stops using a 1/2 inch drive impact with a 1/2 6-point socket and the shortest extension that would work (longer or smaller diameter extensions soften the twisting torque). I also used 5/8 inch air hose from the compressor to the wrench instead of smaller line. Finally, I think Ewil (of Lindsay Cadillac) said that he prefers a long breaker bar to an impact wrench. A 2-3 foot cheater pipe might help.

kevm14
06-18-11, 01:44 PM
Breaker bar is a good way to snap off rusty fasteners, so YMMV. I'm terrified about having to do mine on a car that was driven all year in New England from about 28k to 100k. If I can cheat by screwing with the engine mounts instead, and leave the cat, then that would be ideal, because I'd like to change them anyway.

bpitas
06-20-11, 10:07 AM
I was able to do it without removing the passenger side cat by unbolting the passenger-side motor-mount and moving it forward a couple of inches. When I did mine a couple of months ago, I was thinking I would be able to find a way to wiggle the stock starter out without removing the cat or the motor mount, but there is just no way. I'd rather deal with a motor mount than rusty exhaust bolts any day of the week - I've had to drill too many of those damned things in the past. :-)

Also, I would highly recommend replacing the connector to the snout of the solenoid. There's a ton of radiational heat coming off the cat, which is about 4" away from the starter, so that plastic gets super-brittle over time. Definitely best to do both while you're under there!

kevm14
06-21-11, 12:04 AM
Do you have an LS6? If so, that is great news for me. I sense a new starter and CS mounts in my car's future. The starter's been behaving recently, but whatever is causing those intermittent no-cranks will just fail someday.

bpitas
06-21-11, 12:46 AM
Mine is an LS6, and mine was intermittent... until it wasn't and the car wouldn't start. The failure on mine was the connection to the solenoid - it was *cooked* and crumbled in my hand when I touched it.

CadzillaTN
06-21-11, 10:42 PM
makes me wonder if people should get the connector before they actually replace the starter. Mine was not in the best shape when I saw it during the mm install.

One morning before work I got the ole power but no start.. I assumed it was the starter so I decided to use my warranty's roadside service and call a wrecker to just drop it at the dealer. They couldn't get it on the truck because it was too low.. I contemplated jacking up the car and adjusting the gc but I wasn't sure an inch would make much difference so I reached up there and fiddled with the connector.. it felt loose so I just pushed it back in place and it started.. I did this about 5 times over a few months because it was much easier/less stressful than taking it in to get that one thing fixed.

Once after a business dinner I had to it in a parking lot in front of a couple of people from another country (asia)... They didn't laugh because I am the customer!

4dr-ls6
06-23-11, 02:45 PM
Hi All:

I completed the starter install with just a few obstacles along the way. The cat definitely had to be removed along with the outboard manifold stud. I just could not get the old starter around it otherwise. A propone torch made relative quick work of the manifold stud bolts and stud removal. The bolts and studs both have to be removed on the bottom of the cat to remove it (from the vehicle) and they came out easily with a deep well 15mm 1/2" drive socket (bolts) and a thin 15mm open end wrench (studs).

I replaced the manifold stud [removed] with an M10 thread stud and bolt with no problems (even cut a few extra threads on die cutter). One of the cat bolts cross threaded going back in and snapped. That had to be drilled and re-tapped with an M12 bolt.

The starter I used is an MSD Model# 5096. It is a perfect fit with no skims required. It has the 360 degree mounting boss but in its factory position it fit perfectly. One large battery terminal (break off the factory tab) and one for the ignition that needs the supplied connector crimped on since the factory starter has a push-in connector. It has a real trick look to it with a glossy bright red finish and a polished billet mounting block. It also sounds cool starting up with a bit of a quick drag car whine. Excellent piece delivered overnight (on Saturday) to my door for $256.90 through Summit.

Reagrds, PG

darkman
06-23-11, 05:30 PM
Congratulations, I am glad it worked out for you.

Slithering_Joe
06-29-11, 10:21 AM
Get some heat shielding to protect the starter from the cat or that pretty red paint will be toast in no time. Also, it will help the starter last long too. I wrapped part of the starter body, the wire harness and draped a portion of the header with DEi Heat Screen to protect mine. My original starter got baked and failed.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z130/Slithering_Joe/My%202005%20CTS-V/IMG_0739.jpg