: Removing distributor - stuck, help



hermanpj
06-27-10, 01:45 AM
I am continuing dis-assembly on my 472. Have decided to to make what was a 'stop the oil leak' job into a full rebuild while I am it. Anyway... cannot get the distributor out - anything I might be missing?

-distributor hold down is removed obviously.
-trying to lift and rotate the distributor to remove it is not working
-did i miss something?

csbuckn
06-27-10, 01:48 AM
Do you have the motor out of the engine? If you take off the timing cover, you will see the distributer shaft on the oil pump rod. You should be able to work something out from there.

mike1pat
06-27-10, 08:37 AM
Get a can of Knocker-Loose and spray it real good, let it sit for a day then gentley tap the distr base while twisting the housing. They rubber O-ring probably deteriortated and it binding it up.. Mike

outsider
06-27-10, 08:47 AM
Do you have the motor out of the engine?

you mean out of the car? :thumbsup:

deVille33
06-27-10, 08:47 AM
You can remove the oil pump rotors from the pump body and run a rod up through the drive rotor passage and gently tap on the bottom of the distributor shaft. You can also remove the front cover and remove as much baked on paraphin with a degreaser, purple power comes to mind, to free up the distributor from it's bore.

hermanpj
06-28-10, 12:43 AM
i think i'm going with this last suggestion - thanks guys. I do not have the motor out, but i have the radiator and grill out, the water pump out, and harmonic balancer off. so i will pull the crank pulley next weekend, remove the front cover, and then see why its stuck.

i know where to get purple power - love the stuff. Where do i get "knocker loose" spray?

hermanpj
07-05-10, 05:53 PM
cannot get the last pulley/plate off the crank. I have the crank pulley and harmonic balancer off. there is a plate on the end of the crank which the harmonic balancer mounts to. i have not been able to remove it. i rented a 3 jaw 5 ton pulley puller but could not get it to line up right bc of radiator core support interference with the puller jaws. cannot work out a position for the jaws that will clear the core support. i have one fender amd wheel housing off, the next one comes off next weekend, then i will remove the entire front cradle. then i should have complete access to the front of the engine with no interference

one thing that is weird - the pully puller's central core rod seemed to be drilling the crank snout - i.e. I expected it only to go so far into the crank and then stop, but it seemed to go in pretty far - i stopped bc i was concerned about harming the crank, anyone know about this?

csbuckn
07-05-10, 07:51 PM
I wish I would of took pics of what happened to mine. I ended up have to cut the hub off. I went through 2 hubs before I got it right. I'll see if I have some pics when I get home. You may have to call Marty at MTS to see how deep the hole is.

Brother_B
07-05-10, 09:54 PM
I got so mad a couple years ado, I created the Twist-O-Matic (R). If you absolutely run out of options, and you have another distributor to put in, i.e. you don't mind destroying the present distro, you could try my method, haha

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/500-472-425-368/100502-distributor-stuck.html

hermanpj
07-05-10, 10:20 PM
yeah marty and i are becoming 'friends' = i ask him a lot of questions and he's been a real sport answering them. glad to know i'm not alone on how tough this hub is to get off. i have tried heating it but its not making a difference. so you cut the darn thing off eh? will see if marty has any other ideas but that is an option.

Brother B I have no love for this distributor. I'm going with an aftermarket ignition system and distributor - probly MSD. I'll check out the twist-o-matic.

hermanpj
07-05-10, 10:30 PM
Brother B. the twist-o-matic is fiendishly clever. I'm all over that.

deVille33
07-06-10, 07:34 AM
I use a puller with a button on the end rather than the center point. I also try to find a thrust washer to fit the snout.

hermanpj
07-06-10, 10:35 AM
yeah i tried a button from another puller but it would not fit on the 3 jaw puller's shaft end.

deVille33
07-07-10, 08:34 AM
What you need is like a steering wheel puller. Bolts to the hub, pulls it off.

hermanpj
07-07-10, 08:41 PM
tried steering wheel puller actually. has perfect size button on it and it has perfect sized screws to bolt to the hub. unfortunately it doesnt have the right configuration of slots to allow pulling the hub off square and straight. So it pulls at an angle which makes the problem worse i think - not that it budged one RCH either way.

Brother_B
07-07-10, 11:37 PM
I think you just need to put a tiny twist-action on it to break the rust. Rather than pulling it. Can you clamp something to it and attach a 4-foot breaker bar, and then _gently_ twist it? By the way, I have these squeaky control arm bushings since I replaced them recently. A friend told mee about Kroil, and said it's the best penetrating oil in the world. I was googling around a lil bit, and found someone claiming the absolute best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF...

deVille33
07-08-10, 08:59 AM
tried steering wheel puller actually. has perfect size button on it and it has perfect sized screws to bolt to the hub. unfortunately it doesnt have the right configuration of slots to allow pulling the hub off square and straight. So it pulls at an angle which makes the problem worse i think - not that it budged one RCH either way.


I don't know what to tell you. I think mine worked with 2 bolts across from one another. The problem maybe with your particular puller. You may be able to open it up a little with a rotary file. I think I also had to add a little heat along with the puller on one of the engines.
One of the trickiest thing was finding a bolt to fit the threads of the crank snout.
And that is another thought. You could find a Threaded bolt to fit the crank snout, cut the head off and have it center drilled, then you could use the pointed end of your puller.

deVille33
07-08-10, 09:09 AM
I think you just need to put a tiny twist-action on it to break the rust. Rather than pulling it. Can you clamp something to it and attach a 4-foot breaker bar, and then _gently_ twist it? By the way, I have these squeaky control arm bushings since I replaced them recently. A friend told mee about Kroil, and said it's the best penetrating oil in the world. I was googling around a lil bit, and found someone claiming the absolute best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF...


Driving hub is keyed to crank. Do not twist. A couple raps with a mallet should be enough to loosen any rust.
Kroil works great. They sent me a sample. Been around for a long time, used to be sold basically for industrial applications for removing large mounting bolts.
I've read about the acetone/ATF solution, but haven't tried it yet.

hermanpj
07-08-10, 10:06 AM
I'm going to give the hub a rest until i get the engine out of the car and onto my stand. then i will have complete access to it and be able to use any puller. I'll also be able to better stop the engine turning by jamming the flexplate.

I did return my attention last night to the distributor itself. In preparation for using a home made removal tool like Brother B's, i stripped the distributor down to as bare as i could get it. i decided to drill the holes in it on Friday night. But i thought, "Hey i sprayed a ton of penetrating lube on this thing over the last couple weeks - let me just give it a light rap with a hammer and if it comes loose great, if not, I'll call it a night."

Well it did not come loose. Instead the case of the distributor cracked off near the engine block. :-) The shaft is still sticking out and completely immobile. So i can't just drill it out now.Before I go and make this thing impossible to remove I'm going to quit while I'm ahead, get the engine out, get the hub off the crank, get the front cover off, remove the timing set and the cam if possibel, and then try to get pressure on the distrubutor housing from the engine side outward. if i cant do it the machine shop will have to do it. :-)

Brother_B
07-09-10, 12:11 AM
Driving hub is keyed to crank. Do not twist. A couple raps with a mallet should be enough to loosen any rust.


I mean, twist the distributor! Like when you adjust your timing... Sorry, I think you guys are way beyond me!

hermanpj
07-09-10, 02:47 PM
i got what you meant! good advice I think! I was actually gearing up to implement your awesome distributor removal technology. unfortunately, i broke the housing off about a centimeter above the engine block. so now i'm thinking i need to wait until i can get the crank hub and front cover off. I'm ultimately pulling the motor anyway, so it probably can wait for that at which point I'll have much more room.

hermanpj
08-25-10, 11:55 AM
Here is how I was finally able to remove distributor. I punched out the spring which fastens the distributor drive gear to the distributor shaft. Removed distributor gear. Pulled distributor shaft out. Now just had 4 inches of the distributor housing sticking into the timing area. I was now able to take dremel and cut a slot into the distributor housing about in the middle of it. I then gave it a whack with a chisel blade, and about 2 inches came off so that i was able to un-bolt the cam timing gear and ease it past the remaining 2 inches of distributor housing. With the timing chain off, I then i pulled the cam itself out. Now i could get the crank out, although with hub, front cover, and flywheel still on it! Once the crank was out I had a good open space in the timing area and was able to drive the remains of the distributor housing out of the engine block using a 10 pound sledge hammer. Now i will go to work on the crank hub to get it off. Notice: if anyone wants a 472 Crank, let me know. I am being very careful not to damage the crank snout. You can also have the original flywheel that's mounted to it. You'll obviously need a new crank hub :-). I am taking the oil slinger but am leaving the crank timing gear on. If you want this crank, let me know, you'll just need to pay for the shipping. Other than that I am giving it away as I am replacing it with a 500 Crank and MTS does not need the 472 core.

Garys
08-31-10, 11:24 PM
Man, can I relate. I fought with mine off and on for two days before I got it to come out. The distributor is made of aluminum and the engine block is steel. Some kind of electrolysis has taken place where it slides in at the top. I had to unbolt the ac compressor to move it out of the way and I used a very large pipe wrench to get mine loose. I moved it back and forth and was eventually able to pull it out.

It worked for me. The funny thing is the distributor is quite short. You would not think it could get stuck like that.:banghead:

hermanpj
09-27-10, 01:33 PM
this saga is finally at an end. i was finally able to get the front cover off of the crankshaft. i had to grind the crank hub down to a nub. its still on there allthough i'll be darned if i know where the hub ends and the snout begins. if anyone wants it, 472 crank is your for free. yours to determine if the crank snout is damaged. i wont know until i get my new crank and compare the two.

csbuckn
09-27-10, 02:18 PM
MTS may buy that crank from you.