View Full Version : SLS High Voltage

06-26-10, 08:35 PM
1st let me say hello and there is so much info in this group I will be reading for awhile. But I am having a problem with a 2002 SLS saying High voltage on the DIC I have checked at the Battery it runs 14.3 and 14.5 at the from front
termainal at the fuse box. I think it is charging fine? It also displays service the stabillty system every now and then. I have read some posts but have not been able to figure anything out. Any push in the right direction would be good.


06-26-10, 10:15 PM
14.3 to 14.5 is absolutely normal for steady state charging voltage. If you check the battery voltage after the car is shut down for 5 hours it should read 12.5 to 12.6 volts. The system always supplies elevated voltage at a varying amperage rate in order to carry the running loads in the car.

Not sure why the "High Voltage" DIC warning - use the sticky thread at the top of the main Seville page - "How to pull codes" - to find out just which module/system is setting the message. This will teach you how to pull your Diagnostic Trouble Codes from your car's built-in scanner/reader system. Please read the entire thread and practice first.......

Same for the stability messages - something will show in the codes displayed.

06-27-10, 12:29 AM
I have checked the codes and here is what it is:
DIM B1982 Device Power Circuit High
IPC B1514 Voltage is greater then 16.2 with the engine running
IPM B1982 Device Power Circuit High

I have check the Voltage at both the front and battery both locations
are around 14.5 volts which should be good. There must be a bad resitor
somewhere? But I have know idea where to look? Any Help....


06-27-10, 01:24 AM
....There must be a bad resitor
somewhere? But I have know idea where to look? Any Help....

Not sure I can add anything to the discussion because I have zero first person experience with your year Seville.

However my 1998 model, and I have no idea what other years, has a thermistor buried in the battery positive battery cable design such that the thermistor can respond to battery ambient temperature.

Alternator output voltage is directly controlled by field current. And field current is "fine tuned" by the voltage value produced by the thermistor.

Look under the rear seat cushion at the battery terminal positive connections. Pay attention to small chassis connectors that are not connected. My knee jerk reaction is to suspect a failed battery temperature thermistor or an open thermistor connector.

As a test, you could purchase a package of 1.5K Ohm, 1/4 Watt resistors at Radio Shack (or?) and insert one of those resistors in the chassis connector that goes to the battery thermistor.

06-27-10, 11:44 AM
JimD, just took a look - no control thermistor in or near my positive battery cable under the rear seat. Must be an earlier control device.

06-27-10, 01:34 PM
I knew the thermistor was designed out at some point. That's the reason for my bail out qualifying clause.:)

To the original poster, if it was my car i would clear those codes, leave the voltmeter on the battery terminals with the meter face sitting on the center arm rest and drive the car for 20 to 30 minutes keeping an eye on the voltmeter. A meter with a "MAX" function would be useful.

The OnBoard Diagnostic system built into these models is very good and getter better. But it ain't perfect.

06-27-10, 01:38 PM
I made a VOM adapter out of a Radio Shack 12V cigarette lighter/power plug - simply stick it in one of the receptacles, hook up the VOM, and you can watch system voltage on the VOM as opposed to the DIC readout.

06-27-10, 10:15 PM
Thanks guy's for the help, I am sorry I didn't state that it is 2002 model. I have checked with my Fluke meter at the battery and the ALT. I have also rode around with the meter connected to the battery and it never goes over 15 volts. it doesn't seem to make a differance if the load it turned on or off.
I dont think there is any thermester on this car.


06-27-10, 10:16 PM
I was starting to lean toward the DIM Module.....being bad?

06-27-10, 11:02 PM
You did state your year model in your signature.

If you can live with the voltage your system settles down at after driving for some period after a cold engine crank, I would not go looking for problems that might not exist.

System voltage depends on many variables; battery age/condition, ambient temperature, time since last engine crank among others.

Your OBD system might have flagged a very brief voltage spike above 15 V due to some large load being removed and it took the alternator voltage regulator a few heartbeats to respond.

Drive it and observe.