: brake pads on 95 fleetwood



outsider
06-25-10, 01:08 PM
Ok, so I'm thinking I need to change the brakepads on my 95 fleetwood...

Reason being, sometimes when I apply the brakes I can feel a shaking in the pedal. I haven't had a chance to look at them yet, but I was thinking of leaving work early this afternoon to do the job.

I've changed brake pads before, but I'm just wondering if there's anything I need to look at or be careful for before I jump into this?

Any special tools etc...


Also, i don't have a C-Clamp to push the piston in, anyone know any other tricks to get this job done? :)

durrk johnson
06-25-10, 01:16 PM
Well, it might not just be the brake pads. If theres a shaking, be prepared to change the rotors aswell.

thefleetwoodguy
06-25-10, 01:25 PM
another common issue on these cars, as well on most cars these days

its lateral runout , just have the rotors resurfaced should do it

its from heat build up, causes the rotors to get slightly warped
if the rotors sre already cut too far I have some extras here I can work you a good deal
Im doing that to the 94 as we speak, and the 95 is just behind it,
I have some decent hardly used pads as well.....

thefleetwoodguy
06-25-10, 01:57 PM
Matt go buy a c clamp there cheap enough
also a common mistake is to compress the puck without opening the bleeder screw, that forces dirty fluid back into the system, its a good idea to open the bleeder then compress the puck

if the bleeder doesnt break off!!

outsider
06-25-10, 02:14 PM
Thanks for the tips Jim! I never did open up the bleeder in the past, but I'll do so this time!

I know C-Clamps are cheap, I should probably just bite the bullet and buy one. I'll probably do that after work, as well.


As for the rotors being bad, I'll have to look at them once I get the tires off. The shaking doesn't happen often, it's only every so often. I'll look at it tonight and see how they look before I start pulling things apart. Jim, I'll let you know if I need parts. I'm ganna be going in to NH this weekend to get fireworks for the 4th of july (not sure how close I'll be to your place because I don't know where the fire works store is :P) but I'll let you know. I trust your pricing, so if I do need to replace the rotors you'll be my first option :)

Rock Auto has some pretty cheap...around $50 for ACDelco ones, too.

sven914
06-25-10, 04:48 PM
A vibration in the pedal could indicate an issue with the rear brake drums. Front rotor run out will present itself in steering wheel vibration. So you should also take off the drums (you can do that without effecting/removing the rear brakes), and have them checked for out of round.

outsider
06-25-10, 05:11 PM
good call, thanks Sven. It might be related to the ABS/Traction light coming on after driving for a while and also the wheels seem to drag when first going into reverse after driving. I'm pretty sure it's not the tranny doing it, it feels like the back brakes lock up a bit and then it goes fine.

sven914
06-25-10, 05:57 PM
On a side note, if you stopping hard enough for the ABS to engage, or the ABS is engaging too early, you will feel a vibration in the pedal as the system pulses to brakes to prevent wheel lock.

durrk johnson
06-26-10, 11:22 AM
No no no no.

Now that you just said that it happenes when your abs/traction light comes on, thats exactly what it is.


Its your traction control module, which apparently commonly faults on these cars.

I have the same problem with my 96.

Sometimes my traction control and anti-lock brake light comes on while driving, and then while coming to a stop, if I press the brake pedal softly, sometimes you can hear/feel it slightly catch and grind/shake for a split second and then it goes away. I had the same problem and after going through two wheel speed sensors they guys told me my TCM had an internal fault. I also have new rotors and brakepads.

If this is the case, the only thing you can do is get a new TCM put in and the module itself is 900-1600$. It is what makes the anti-lock and traction control system work properly.

Super expensive. Which is why I havent fixed mine yet. Until then, if it happens, softly pump the brake.

firstimecaddi
06-28-10, 04:20 PM
how do you clear the codes on these 95 FWB?

sven914
06-28-10, 04:32 PM
Off topic, but what the hell. When you are looking at a code on the ECC, hit the off button to erase it. Hitting ECON, DEFROST, or turning the ignition off for ten seconds will exit you out of diagnostic mode, but the codes will still be there.

outsider
06-28-10, 04:37 PM
"A code can be cleared by pressing the "OFF" button while that particular code is being displayed. "
according to: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cfb-tech.html