Mark G
08-28-04, 04:45 PM
I'm providing this information for all those considering this upgrade. The following are my impressions of this upgrade:
Overview:
I installed Monroe struts on my 93 Deville about 4 months ago to replace the original solonoid-operated units that were shot. BTW, the originals did pretty well as the car has 193,000 on it. The car would bottom out a lot and had that "float" attitude. But ultimately a rubber bladder on one of the rear shocks (load leveling system) rotted out and wouldn't hold air. The air compressor would run quite a bit (not full time), so it was time to do something.
Which Struts To Buy?
I was unsure on which way to go for replacements. I checked out the internet options, but I ended up going with the Monroe lower-end replacement struts for this car. They also have a higher end shock for about $20 more each. The biggest concern was should I go with the better shocks which were supposed to be firmer, or get the standard "original ride" replacements? Like I said, I settled on the 'original ride' replacements. The struts I bought cost around $45 ea from Northern Automotive Warehouse (Great place - do a Yahoo search). The rear struts DO have the air leveling feature just like the originals, which I really wanted since we DO sometimes load down the trunk. The rears were a few bucks more expensive than the fronts. I think all 4 struts came in around $225 or less with shipping.
Installation:
I installed the struts myself, more because I had a bunch of other things I needed to do (water pump, timing cover, oil pan, etc). I have a good mechanical background and all the tools for this kind of installation. But you wouldn't need any fancy tools other than a jack/jackstands and hand tools to do this job. An air impact wrench is truely a good tool for this job as the bolts can be very tough to remove after all the years. Basically the hardest part of the job was getting the old struts out, but that was more of a issue with my cheap Harbor Freight spring compressor. Once out, I compressed the spring more, removed the retaining plate and switched it over to the Monroes, then installed them. I always chain the spring to the strut and wear a face shield (not that it would really help), but it's good to use caution.
I also checked my ball joints. At 190,000+ miles they were still fine, so I left them alone. I purchased new ball joints ahead of time figuring to replace them, but they checked out fine ahead of time and were still snug in their sockets (I grease regularly), so why bother? Car has mostly highway miles on it.
The rear struts were a piece of cake to remove since there are no springs on them. I had the car up on jack stands and chained the coil spring to the suspension and just lowered the lower control arm with a jack till the spring was loose. The shocks came right out. I stuck the new ones in and hooked up the air line. I "eye-balled" the strut alignment on all shocks before putting everything back together, then took it in for an alignment. They only had to adjust the tow. I also had them double-check the ball joints and yeah, they said they were all tight.
Results:
As far as performance goes, it is a TREMENDOUS improment! The "Original" ride Monroe shocks don't seem to be rougher riding than the originals, but it's hard to judge because mine were so worn out. It doesn't bottom out any more or "float" as I drive. I wish I had done the conversion a year or two earlier. It's been a joy to drive. I don't miss the original active suspension. Personally I thought it was kind of a joke because of the way it was set up. It would switch to "firm" around 67 mph and stay at that position until ya get down to like 58 or 62. That meant that tooling on the interstate at 68 or 70 I would get a ride that was too firm for my tastes. The new rear load leveling work as they should and I can haul loads around again now.
Well, that's it. These are my experiences. Hope this helps others.
Mark G
Overview:
I installed Monroe struts on my 93 Deville about 4 months ago to replace the original solonoid-operated units that were shot. BTW, the originals did pretty well as the car has 193,000 on it. The car would bottom out a lot and had that "float" attitude. But ultimately a rubber bladder on one of the rear shocks (load leveling system) rotted out and wouldn't hold air. The air compressor would run quite a bit (not full time), so it was time to do something.
Which Struts To Buy?
I was unsure on which way to go for replacements. I checked out the internet options, but I ended up going with the Monroe lower-end replacement struts for this car. They also have a higher end shock for about $20 more each. The biggest concern was should I go with the better shocks which were supposed to be firmer, or get the standard "original ride" replacements? Like I said, I settled on the 'original ride' replacements. The struts I bought cost around $45 ea from Northern Automotive Warehouse (Great place - do a Yahoo search). The rear struts DO have the air leveling feature just like the originals, which I really wanted since we DO sometimes load down the trunk. The rears were a few bucks more expensive than the fronts. I think all 4 struts came in around $225 or less with shipping.
Installation:
I installed the struts myself, more because I had a bunch of other things I needed to do (water pump, timing cover, oil pan, etc). I have a good mechanical background and all the tools for this kind of installation. But you wouldn't need any fancy tools other than a jack/jackstands and hand tools to do this job. An air impact wrench is truely a good tool for this job as the bolts can be very tough to remove after all the years. Basically the hardest part of the job was getting the old struts out, but that was more of a issue with my cheap Harbor Freight spring compressor. Once out, I compressed the spring more, removed the retaining plate and switched it over to the Monroes, then installed them. I always chain the spring to the strut and wear a face shield (not that it would really help), but it's good to use caution.
I also checked my ball joints. At 190,000+ miles they were still fine, so I left them alone. I purchased new ball joints ahead of time figuring to replace them, but they checked out fine ahead of time and were still snug in their sockets (I grease regularly), so why bother? Car has mostly highway miles on it.
The rear struts were a piece of cake to remove since there are no springs on them. I had the car up on jack stands and chained the coil spring to the suspension and just lowered the lower control arm with a jack till the spring was loose. The shocks came right out. I stuck the new ones in and hooked up the air line. I "eye-balled" the strut alignment on all shocks before putting everything back together, then took it in for an alignment. They only had to adjust the tow. I also had them double-check the ball joints and yeah, they said they were all tight.
Results:
As far as performance goes, it is a TREMENDOUS improment! The "Original" ride Monroe shocks don't seem to be rougher riding than the originals, but it's hard to judge because mine were so worn out. It doesn't bottom out any more or "float" as I drive. I wish I had done the conversion a year or two earlier. It's been a joy to drive. I don't miss the original active suspension. Personally I thought it was kind of a joke because of the way it was set up. It would switch to "firm" around 67 mph and stay at that position until ya get down to like 58 or 62. That meant that tooling on the interstate at 68 or 70 I would get a ride that was too firm for my tastes. The new rear load leveling work as they should and I can haul loads around again now.
Well, that's it. These are my experiences. Hope this helps others.
Mark G