: Air Level Stuck On! Jacked rear of car to Max!!!! Help!



durrk johnson
05-17-10, 11:42 PM
I had to disconnect my battery.

I just got back from a drive, and when everyone got out of the car, the air ride stayed on and jacked the back of my car to the max!!!!

And then it stayed on, and I tried turning the car on and off, didnt work, and I tried just turning it to the on position without actually starting it, but it just kept turning back on, and then I started to hear hissing.

So I had to disconnect my battery to get it to stop.


Now I dont know what i shoudl do....

csbuckn
05-18-10, 01:48 AM
Sounds like a relay. There may be other relays in your car you can switch it with just to check.

Cadillac_Fan
05-18-10, 02:16 AM
Not sure of the configuration / orientation of the Level Ride compressor in a '96, yet I believe there is a connector which unclips leading to the compressor.

For cars so advanced beyond their years, it's hard to believe Cadillac used such cheap garbage in their electronics and circuitry.

I've mentioned this before, and it merits repeating: as one seasoned Cadillac tech once said to me, "Diagnosing and repairing an electrical fault in a Cadillac is trickier and more complex than fixing one in the space shuttle."

HUF
05-18-10, 09:51 AM
Not sure of the configuration / orientation of the Level Ride compressor in a '96, yet I believe there is a connector which unclips leading to the compressor.

For cars so advanced beyond their years, it's hard to believe Cadillac used such cheap garbage in their electronics and circuitry.

I've mentioned this before, and it merits repeating: as one seasoned Cadillac tech once said to me, "Diagnosing and repairing an electrical fault in a Cadillac is trickier and more complex than fixing one in the space shuttle."

Diagnosing and repairing an electrical fault in the space shuttle is trickier and more complex than fixing one in a Cadillac". :)

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 09:57 AM
You guys got nothin huh?


I gotta go to work in 3 hours and my cars sitting with the battery disconnected...

Shitttt.

It looks like it went back down since last night.... shittttt

csbuckn
05-18-10, 10:03 AM
disconnect the motor or pull the fuse. The harness should be right by the motor.

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 10:07 AM
disconnect the motor or pull the fuse. The harness should be right by the motor.

Okay, so If I disconnect the motor or pull the fuse...

Will codes/lights come up?
\Will i be able to drive safely without bouncing all over?


And I tried looking at the fuses but didnt see the air ride fuse... Which is it?

csbuckn
05-18-10, 10:11 AM
I dont think any codes will light up, maybe you level ridr light and you will be able to drive it safely. I think the fuse is the "body" fuse. Do you see the harness connected to the level ride motor?

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 10:20 AM
NO I dont see the motor...

Where is it?

And I noticed someone had added two extra wires into this fuse box, one is going into the RR CIG fuse and the otheris going into the RAP PWR fuse...

Not really sure about that...

Im looking at the fuse chart right now and I dont see any "body" fuse...

WHere is the motor disconnect located?

thefleetwoodguy
05-18-10, 10:56 AM
under hood pass side , theres a large fuse box, remove the cover
then remove the green 30 amp maxi fuse
the cover has a label in it that shows the legend
it wont throw any codes

fixing electrical issues are no more difficult in these cars then anything else
space shuttle/submarine/girlfriends vibrator etc... :)

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 11:12 AM
Heyy thanks Jim!

Thanks alot for chiming in like that... I can go to work now. haha

What do you recommend I do after...

Without the air ride... Are my shocks gonna suck really bad now?

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 02:18 PM
Okay, i was driving and yeah, my car feels like its lower but its driving like crap... Im not really sure what i should do...

Servicing the air ride will cost an arm and a leg... And now my caddys ass is sagging like all of those hoodish beater caddies. :(

thefleetwoodguy
05-18-10, 03:04 PM
just get a airline kit from any auto parts store $6.99
and you can bypass the compressor
and set the ride height where you want it
its as simple as unscrewing and rescrewing a couple of plastic caps
most likely its the axle sensor took a dump
I have them too,

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 03:07 PM
just get a airline kit from any auto parts store $6.99
and you can bypass the compressor
and set the ride height where you want it
its as simple as unscrewing and rescrewing a couple of plastic caps
most likely its the axle sensor took a dump
I have them too,

HEy thanks JIm...

How would I do this and what is an airline kit?

Do I need tools or anything?

brougham
05-18-10, 09:25 PM
If it's lower you also have worn springs. Figure out what's wrong with it. Either the switch at the back that tells it when it has to go up or down, or the compressor.

durrk johnson
05-18-10, 11:08 PM
Where is this switch?

jayoldschool
05-19-10, 09:59 AM
If it's lower you also have worn springs.

That's incorrect. On cars with Level Ride, the rear springs are a lower rate. The system is designed to operate with pressure in the shocks at all times, maintaining ride height. If you disconnect Level Ride, your car will sag. So, in order to maintain ride height, there are two options: fix the system (or go with a manual air fill), or swap to non-level ride springs.

durrk johnson
05-19-10, 11:25 AM
how do I do the manual air fill for now? COuld you tell me?

jayoldschool
05-19-10, 02:54 PM
Go to any parts store, ask for a manual fill kit for air shocks. Put the filler behind the license plate.

ScottConklin
05-19-10, 04:51 PM
Actually the factory level ride air shocks use a clip on the connector, whereas aftermarket shocks use a screw-on compression fitting(plastic). Monroe sells a special kit to adapt their shocks to level ride systems.

Best solution, put some Impala/Caprice springs and a set of Bilsteins under it. Add airbags if you want the additional load-leveling capability. If it's over 50 or 60k miles the original shocks are probably leaking oil anyway.

jayoldschool
05-19-10, 07:47 PM
Yes, it is implied that the adapter kit will be needed with factory shocks.

durrk johnson
05-19-10, 11:25 PM
Well, I know i need new shocks in the front, and Im pretty sure the shocks in back havent been replaced either... My car has 137ooo miles... What kind of shocks/ springs do you guys think I should go with?

And what shocks woudl i have to use in the rear to somehow keep my airlevel. And what what would need to be done to fix my airbaglevel system in the first place?

ScottConklin
05-20-10, 12:47 AM
As I said, Impala SS or 9C1 Caprice springs are your most price effective route. 50 bucks will get you a used set in good condition. The imapalassforum.com is a good place to look. Where I got mine. There are also lots of aftermarket springs available for the B/D body cars to lower them, alter handling, whatever. Any of the springs made for a B/D without Level Ride will eliminate the need for air shocks at all and thus any normal gas shock(Caprice/Impala/Roadmaster 91-96) will work. I said Bilstiens because that is the performance shock of choice but it's also expensive.

If you want to fix the level ride the first place to start is the switch in back. A metal rod runs down from a controller rigidly mounted above the lower trailing arm(passenger side if I remember right) to the axle. The position of the rear makes that rod move the arm on the controller, telling the comp when to turn on and off. Since your comp was running it is good(assuming it didn't burn up) and since the car jacked up it's safe to assume the lines are probably ok. Means it's almost certainly that switch.

Disconnect it(it just snaps on to a little carb linkage-like ball joint) and make certain it moves and nothing is visibly damaged, including the plug. If damaged you have your answer(or if simply loose). If not you'll need to have it tested but that is, probably, the culprit. As far as the shocks are concerned, Monroe air shocks with the adapter. That's the easy part.

Also possible, airbags in the replacement springs, thus giving you an overload capacity. I've seen these hooked up to the level ride, in fact and you get the best of all worlds between better springs, gas shocks and a maintained variation of the level ride.

No matter what you're getting into a couple hundred bucks or more even if you do the work yourself. Unless you hit the jackpot and the rod is simply off, bent, stuck, whatever. It does happen but even then, at 130k the back shocks aren't really shocks anymore. If not for the air system you'd be bouncing all over. In fact, you probably ARE bouncing all over now.

Aron9000
05-20-10, 02:34 AM
As I said, Impala SS or 9C1 Caprice springs are your most price effective route. 50 bucks will get you a used set in good condition. The imapalassforum.com is a good place to look. Where I got mine. There are also lots of aftermarket springs available for the B/D body cars to lower them, alter handling, whatever. Any of the springs made for a B/D without Level Ride will eliminate the need for air shocks at all and thus any normal gas shock(Caprice/Impala/Roadmaster 91-96) will work. I said Bilstiens because that is the performance shock of choice but it's also expensive.


Personally I would not put 9c1 or SS springs in my Caddy, it will ride stiffer. Go with some base Caprice or Roadmaster rear springs, those will keep the nice soft ride.

Of course if you want to do a performance build on your suspension and make your Cadillac handle like an Impala SS, the 9c1 springs are probably your best bet. Of course you'd have to swap to some 17-18" rims with some low profile tires. kind of pointless to pour all that $$$ into your suspension and be rolling the sidewall over on a set of stock 225/75/R15 series whitewalls.

Anyways, back to your orginal problem. I wouldn't try and fix the level ride system. As soon as you figure out what sensor is out of whack, the air compressor is going to take a dump, you'll get a crack in an air line, or the shocks will start leaking air. Lots of things to go wrong, so I'd just put in some A/C Delco shocks and springs designed for a Buick Roadmaster, save yourself a lot of hassle and fix the level ride for good.

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 03:08 PM
Well, i was looking at the MooG springs and for shocks i wanted something that had comfort and performance if there is such a thing... Expense shouldnt be that much of an issue, as long as theyre not superrrr expensive...

But my car is sagggging really bad in back and its easily taking away from my scceleration, it feels like im towing something...

Can someone give me a step-by step on what manual fill kit i need and how to do this? so that I can drive my car in the meantime without doing more damage?

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 03:52 PM
Also, Is there anychance I can keep the airlevel in back and have it manuaklly set with new shocks, springs, and front shjocks?

What kind would I have to buy?The air shocks?

Atthe moment i am getting ready to buy my parts online and then try to find someone that can install them for a decent price...

75sled
05-20-10, 03:56 PM
I know fleetwood guy knows how cause he put one in Goldie before he sold her to me. He must be really busy trying to sel his house cause I haven't seen him on here as much as usual. Maybe he will chime in shortly

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 03:56 PM
Okay guys, I am looking at getting new springs, spring insulators, shocks for front and back... What do you guys recommend?

csbuckn
05-20-10, 03:59 PM
impala stuff all the way around!! give it a nice look, a little lower to the ground, better handling

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 03:59 PM
kind of pointless to pour all that $$$ into your suspension and be rolling the sidewall over on a set of stock 225/75/R15 series whitewalls.

I have 235/70/15 Lemans SR on my car at the moment..


And csbuckin...I kinda liked when my back was raised and the back slightly higher than my front... made my car look a bit meaner

Im looking at the Moog Springs on rockauto, for the front and back.... And some spring insulators? Ehmm... Not sure....

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 04:45 PM
Hey sorry for the doublepost, but blisteins are on sale at allshocks.com

http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/show_shocks.asp?make=%27CHEVROLET%27&model=%27Full%20Size:%20Caprice%20Classic,%20Capri ce,%20Impala%27&year=%271996%27

Should I get blisteins for the frontand rear? or just the rear? And what kind of springs?

And there are two differnt sets, which part number is the right one?

Would this HD set for the roadmaster be correct?

http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/show_shocks.asp?make=%27BUICK%27&model=%27Full%20Size:%20Electra,%20Le%20Sabre,%20R oadmaster%27&year=%271996%27


Sorry guys, Im not really sure what Im suppossed to buy.

brougham
05-20-10, 06:39 PM
That's incorrect. On cars with Level Ride, the rear springs are a lower rate. The system is designed to operate with pressure in the shocks at all times, maintaining ride height. If you disconnect Level Ride, your car will sag. So, in order to maintain ride height, there are two options: fix the system (or go with a manual air fill), or swap to non-level ride springs.

Not true. The springs might be a lower rate but if it is just sitting there they should be able to hold the car at a normal height. I have never had a Cadillac with good springs sit low. Go through old posts and you will also find this info from someone who ordered and maintained the largest fleet of RWD Fleetwood/Broughams.

jayoldschool
05-20-10, 07:48 PM
I have never had a Cadillac with good springs sit low

Did you ever have a Cadillac with good springs, with Level Ride, with Level Ride disconnected, with bad shocks? That's when they sit low.

We'll agree to disagree on this one.

Back OT. durrk, we can't tell you what to do until you tell us what you want. Do you want stock ride height? Lowered? Cadillac ride? Stiff ride, improved handling?

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 08:00 PM
Well, Jay... id like to have it sit stock with the back slightly higher? I dunno, thats how it used to be when my airride worked.... I definately dont want it lowered.. because I would like improved handling, FOR SURE. BUt i also dontwant a bumpy ride....

So, I would really like improved comfort and handling which is why i atleast wanted blisteins in the front, but i also dont want to pay some shop a buttload to install this stuff so ease of installation would be good here too... And Im not sure what to do aboutthe level ride, try to getit fixed or converted, I would just get blisteins all around, but i cant because of the level ride correct? And I dontknow if I need new springs and spring insulators, I have no idea. :/

jayoldschool
05-20-10, 08:30 PM
Ok, well, I would say the first step is to figure out what is wrong with your current setup. Then you can decide what to do in the rear. If your Level Ride system is shot, I would go with Bilstein HD in front, with manual fill air shocks in the rear, keeping the same springs. OR, Bilsteins all the way around, and Air Ride bags in the springs to level things out and let your fill up when loaded.

HOWEVER, you say you want "improved comfort and handling". Unfortunately, those two things are usually mutually exclusive. Bilsteins are a FIRM shock. You will feel much more road than before. They are great on my SS. It handles like a Corvette. It also is lowered, has custom rear trailing arms, big sway bars, higher rate springs, and wiiiiiide low profile 18" tires. It rides FIRM. I don't want it to ride like a Cadillac. I also wouldn't want my Cadillac to ride like my SS ;)

Make sense?

durrk johnson
05-20-10, 08:49 PM
Ahh, I get it, so youre saying that I could either have comfort or performance?

Well, i wanted to get blistein HD in the front, I mean, They have to be more comfortable than the shocks that are in there now... And do you think my springs would be worn? My ride looks level right now, but wayyyyy lower. When I drive now, my acceleration is being held back majorly.

Do you think I could get blisetin up front, and something like the Monroe Max-air for the rear>?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Max-Air-Adjustable-Shock-Absorber-Monroe_15560054-P_34_R|GRPSHOCAMS_1110313640___

or the Ac Delco- Air adjustables in this link?ACDELCO Part # 504511
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

or something like these Gabriel Hi-Jackers?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=259481_116379_6636 _&skuDescription=Gabriel+Hi+Jackers+/+Shock/Strut+-+Rear&brandName=Gabriel+Hi+Jackers&displayName=Shock/Strut+-+Rear&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=1994&isSearchByPartNumber=&fromWhere=&fromString=&counter=2&itemId=661-0&navValue=14600661&filterByKeyWord=&productId=259481&searchText=&categoryDisplayName=Suspension+%26+Steering&parentId=46-0

And still keep the same springs? Or should I get new springs and insulators? Like the Moog springs i saw?

ScottConklin
05-21-10, 12:10 AM
You can compromise. 9c1 springs with airbags and a softer valve shock other than the Bilstiens. Put a lower, wider tire on the factory FWB wheels. 235/65 will fit, 255/60 will too but you may get some sidewall bulge. Good gas shocks on the front but, again, simply a good Monroe, say. Add a BMR sway bar to the front to control some of the body roll, but leave the stocker in the rear. Tubular rear arms are cool but their biggest purpose was to center up the wheel in the wheel opening on Caprices. For normal driving you really won't notice much difference.

OTOH, how nuts do you want to get? A set of SS wheels with altered center caps, have the rears widened to 10 inches and put on a pair of 315/45/17's back there(pretty sure that's the size, I'm too lazy to go look right now). Something smaller on the front with the same sidewall height...

If you really want to learn just how much stuff is out there go register on the impalassforums.com and start reading. Don't bother to post, it's sorta like a den of vipers over there. One clown told me to "die in a fire" his first post out. But there's a lot of info there, hours of it, even after the crash wiped it a year ago. Just start searching; shocks, wheels, BMR...your eyes will glaze eventually but you'll learn a lot. Pretty much anything that can be done to a LT1 Caprice can be done just as well to a Fleet and everyone has their own ideas of the combination of mods they think will be perfect for them. And you can learn it all via search because if you can think it up someone else has already asked it(and been made fun of usually).

durrk johnson
05-21-10, 12:20 AM
Well, actually, Im just trying to put some quality parts on my ride that will last a while...

My tires are 235/70/15 Lemans SR and I dont have enough money for new tires and these arent worn...

Id just like to get my shocks replaced so I can have a good ride hieght, better handling, and so I dont have to worry about them anymore and can drive my car, because right now I cant... It feels like My car is dragging itself with the airide off...

ScottConklin
05-21-10, 12:47 AM
Then the cheapest thing is to buy a set of Monroe air shocks, run the lines out the back, air them up to the height you want and run with it. Leave the fuse out and the plug pulled for the level ride compressor. BUT, seal the ends of the level ride lines very well so if at some future point you have the time/money/interest you can put the system back in play. If you just leave them dangle they'll collect dirt and damage and suck in moisture, none of which will help an already problematic system.

Any decent set of gas shocks up front will be an improvement over the factory shocks when they were new, let alone at your miles.

I'd still recommend springing for a heavier front sway bar. Unless you're one of those folks who likes the battleship roll the big sway bar all by itself is worth the money. Every cent.

brougham
05-21-10, 01:37 AM
Did you ever have a Cadillac with good springs, with Level Ride, with Level Ride disconnected, with bad shocks? That's when they sit low.

We'll agree to disagree on this one.

Back OT. durrk, we can't tell you what to do until you tell us what you want. Do you want stock ride height? Lowered? Cadillac ride? Stiff ride, improved handling?

Yes. More then one. They might not have taken loads as well but all sat perfectly normal.

I'll agree with that.

brougham
05-21-10, 02:00 AM
Well, actually, Im just trying to put some quality parts on my ride that will last a while...

My tires are 235/70/15 Lemans SR and I dont have enough money for new tires and these arent worn...

Id just like to get my shocks replaced so I can have a good ride hieght, better handling, and so I dont have to worry about them anymore and can drive my car, because right now I cant... It feels like My car is dragging itself with the airide off...

Unless there's any load in the car bad level ride really shouldn't give that kind of feeling. If you really want the raked look with back higher the only way to do it is changing to some other kind of springs. Shocks really aren't meant to hold the weight of a car. I second hitting up an Impala forum to see what kind of stuff they are doing. Or do the pre-internet thing- find a garage that deals with older cars. They can probably also tell you where to get good parts locally. There are lots of people around who know GM suspension.

durrk johnson
05-21-10, 09:38 AM
Then the cheapest thing is to buy a set of Monroe air shocks, run the lines out the back, air them up to the height you want and run with it. Leave the fuse out and the plug pulled for the level ride compressor. BUT, seal the ends of the level ride lines very well so if at some future point you have the time/money/interest you can put the system back in play. If you just leave them dangle they'll collect dirt and damage and suck in moisture, none of which will help an already problematic system.

Any decent set of gas shocks up front will be an improvement over the factory shocks when they were new, let alone at your miles.

I'd still recommend springing for a heavier front sway bar. Unless you're one of those folks who likes the battleship roll the big sway bar all by itself is worth the money. Every cent.


Okay well, I was thinking of getting the Monroe max-Air for the back, and getting the blisteins for up front.... But do I need new springs?

And are these the blisteins i need? (correct part number?)
http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/show_shocks.asp?make=%27BUICK%27&model=%27Full%20Size:%20Electra,%20Le%20Sabre,%20R oadmaster%27&year=%271996%27

And where could I find a front sway bar? And is it expensive?

ScottConklin
05-21-10, 09:41 AM
He noted the car has 130k+ miles. If, like so many Caddys with level ride, it's packing the original shocks then they probably aren't shocks any more. Just empty metal tubes with an airbag wrapped around them which was doing all the work. When the airbag deflated that was that. He might as well not even have shocks on the car since he left all the oil that was inside on the road 40,000 miles ago.

I've had level ride Caddys that sat fine and some that sagged when the level ride quit. My Eldorado got turned into a low rider after the paint job back in the early 90's when the level ride quit and the back end sat down. I had a sudden attack of stupid and backed off the tension on the front torsion bars and Voila! Low rider!

Still rode better than something with bags or hydraulics...

abdullahone
05-21-10, 02:37 PM
I am also interested in a better sway bar in front. Is the part number SB006 correct for 95-96 FWB?
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/ImpalaSS.htm

How hard is it to install myself?

ScottConklin
05-22-10, 01:47 AM
Umm, no, I don't think those are the shocks. IIRC the numbers you want are actually for a 2000 Astro. There's two, one softer than the other. I'll try and find the numbers on the other forum in the morning and post them here.

SB006 is the swaybar for a basic upgrade. SB008 is a heavier bar that I'm pretty certain fits stock height non SS B/D bodies. It's the one on my list, if I ever get time to write or call BMR and make sure it's what I want, but I'm going probably too stiff. Not likely what you want. Oh, Hotchkiss makes a sway bar as well. Don't know too much about that one except I'm guessing it's got a pretty price tag on it... Hardest part to installing a sway bar is dealing with the dirt and rusty factory hardware. Once cleaned up and the old crap extracted it's a breeze. Having a third hand for the links can help but it's not that big a deal.

ScottConklin
05-22-10, 02:07 AM
I apologize, durrk, the 1104's are the correct shock you are looking for, and I think you have the cheapest source there, too.

durrk johnson
05-22-10, 10:31 AM
Wait huh? Which shocks are you talking about?
Thse are for the Sports application. I want the HD shocks.

And do you think i should go for Monroe Max-Air in the back, and blisteins in the front?

And do you guys think I need new springs?

Id really like to order these parts soon, I just dont know what parts to order.

ScottConklin
05-22-10, 11:31 AM
The HD's are the ones at the top of your linked page. 1516's.

Monroe air shocks are as good as any. No reason not to use them. No need to change rear springs if you're going to use air shocks, either. It's just level ride without the automatic aspect.

OTOH I think the Bilstiens on the front are probably overkill with no other mods. Like I said before, any good gas shock will be a step up from factory. I think Monroe makes something called the "sensa-trac" which would probably be available from the same place you get the air shocks and for considerably less than $85 a shock. Whatever, again, any gas shock you put on will be an improvement so do what floats your boat(no pun intended).

durrk johnson
05-22-10, 11:54 AM
The HD's are the ones at the top of your linked page. 1516's.

Monroe air shocks are as good as any. No reason not to use them. No need to change rear springs if you're going to use air shocks, either. It's just level ride without the automatic aspect.

OTOH I think the Bilstiens on the front are probably overkill with no other mods. Like I said before, any good gas shock will be a step up from factory. I think Monroe makes something called the "sensa-trac" which would probably be available from the same place you get the air shocks and for considerably less than $85 a shock. Whatever, again, any gas shock you put on will be an improvement so do what floats your boat(no pun intended).

What do you mean overkill? It wouldnt be good?

I am planning on modding my car in the future... Id like to at least get it to 350 HP one day...

Would I need springs for front? So if I got springs for the front, I might as well get them for the back too? Ahh shit, I dunno what Im suppossed to do. haha

ScottConklin
05-22-10, 02:44 PM
It simply wouldn't be needed or utilized to its full potential in a stock suspension/car. But if you're planning on future mods then you may well utilize the potential. Regardless, again, any quality gas shock you buy will be an improvement and there are no "bad" shocks out there(at least not among common names). So you really can't make a mistake here except, perhaps, ending up with a stiffer ride than you really want.

Anyway, hope I helped 'cause I see I and this forum are already parting company. Definitely not my kind of place, so take care and good luck.

durrk johnson
05-22-10, 05:28 PM
Okay, Thanks everyyyyone that posted....

I ended up going with the blisteins HD for the front and the Monroe Max-air with adapter kit for the rear...

Now I just gotta find someone that can do a good job of installing them.

jayoldschool
05-22-10, 05:34 PM
Now I just gotta find someone that can do a good job of installing them.

Look in the mirror ;)

brougham
05-23-10, 04:47 AM
Wait huh? Which shocks are you talking about?
Thse are for the Sports application. I want the HD shocks.

And do you think i should go for Monroe Max-Air in the back, and blisteins in the front?

And do you guys think I need new springs?

Id really like to order these parts soon, I just dont know what parts to order.

If you need new springs depends on how low the back of the car really sits. If it's a lot and you're going to depend on air shocks to hold it up change the springs too. Its not like they cost a whole lot and its better doing that then risk wrecking the shock mounts.

csbuckn
05-23-10, 11:00 AM
What about the level ride? Did you find the problem with that? I bet its the relay, its a five dollar part. You just pull it out like a fuse and push the new one in.
For the shocks and stuff. I would probably get new OEM shocks all the way around(Monroe would work for me), no springs. I would hook the back shocks to an air valve on the back bumper so you could set your own ride height in the rear. Any new shock is gonna give you a firmer ride because the old ones are pretty worn. I dont know how much firmer you want it but I think you will like how the car rides with new shocks all the way around.

durrk johnson
05-23-10, 01:01 PM
What about the level ride? Did you find the problem with that? I bet its the relay, its a five dollar part. You just pull it out like a fuse and push the new one in.
For the shocks and stuff. I would probably get new OEM shocks all the way around(Monroe would work for me), no springs. I would hook the back shocks to an air valve on the back bumper so you could set your own ride height in the rear. Any new shock is gonna give you a firmer ride because the old ones are pretty worn. I dont know how much firmer you want it but I think you will like how the car rides with new shocks all the way around.


Hey thanks Csbuckn..

I am at the moment debating if I need new sprinsg or not... I figure I might as well get some while Im getting these shocks all the way around done, but then i was thinking, the Moog springs i want are 175$ for front and back, and thats not including insulators... And I figure that would make a labor cost gooo wayy up aswell compared to just the front and rear shocks installation...

I already have a front set of Blisteins and a rear set of Monroe Max-Air coming in the mail. Total for the blisteins was 192$ and the total for the Monroes was 82$...

And now I havent figured out the problem with my air ride. I wasnt able to find this "switch" or "relay" you guys speak of... help me out! If this is really a 5 dollar fix, and if someone could help me fix it, I would be forever greatfull!

csbuckn
05-23-10, 02:53 PM
Well if you do the front springs, you will need new lower ball joints since they will be took apart.

Hopefully thefleetwoodguy will chime in on the relay/switch.

durrk johnson
05-23-10, 03:22 PM
Well if you do the front springs, you will need new lower ball joints since they will be took apart.

Hopefully thefleetwoodguy will chime in on the relay/switch.

Oh really?

I just got new balljoints installed a few months ago with my front end work. hmm..

What kind of differnce would new Moog Springs make?

My car doesnt look too low right now, the trim line looks kinda level, and the right rear wheel fender goes down to about the center cap, and I know its suppossed to be to about the top of the rim. But i havent been driving it because it seriously feels like its being help-up in back, like my tires are touching, but i know thyere are not because I would be able to hear them. But my acceleration is off since the level ride thing happened.

Do you think it would be a significant difference with the new shocks I bought, or do you think that my current springs will be fine? I could take a pic of my car if needed.

csbuckn
05-23-10, 04:47 PM
Personally, I think you will be okay with just shocks. But this is just me. If your balljoints are new, they should be able to reuse them as long as they don't damage them getting them loose. Do you have a service manual?