What sort of specs does everyone run with their Cad?

Stock?

Custom?

I haven't go the rack on mine yet, but typically I maintain the toe myself (home made jig, accuracy? When I went to the shop to check it, I was shooting for slightly toe in, and was at 0.02 degrees toe in. Good enough for me!)

On my 91 Bonneville I ran:

0.5 Degrees negative camber
as much positive caster as I could grind and hammer into it, then balance it for pulling
Toe, at a measurement distance of 6 feet from tire center, I shoot for 0.25in toe in.

I left rear stock, but that is going to change too. I plan on keeping it at 0 toe 0 camber. Car needs to be more neutral.

If I can get a flat surface, I will do the alignment myself. It isn't that hard, takes some time to set it up, something to load the suspension on and then some UUUMMMMMPPPPPPPPPPPPPHHHHHHHHHHH for the strut to spindle nuts.

In my book: Max out Caster, run as much as you possibly can. If an S500 Mercedes runs 10 degrees caster, having 5-6 degrees on a Cad is still not enough. And no car EVER should run positive caster, that is an appointment with disaster. Caster is camber gain in turns. So when the tire turns it gains more and more negative camber while you turn harder and harder. This is bad why? Thought so. I did that to mine and it was an immediate relief. Car drove so much better. And stopped that annoying tire squeal in corners.

The Cadillac will get an alignment soon, it is terrible positive camber now, and I can't stand it.

Thoughts anyone?
Is there any reason a 91 DeVille can't corner on rails???

Tom