: 2002 engine into 1998 model? Or swap body parts instead?

Some Car Guy
05-04-10, 07:50 AM
My sister was in a wreck in the 2002 Seville. Front end mashed pretty good, fender, hood, core support, etc. Bags not blown.

The 1998 model has the dreaded HG problem.

From looking at car-part.com it appears that the body panels should interchange. Engines don;t appear to cross though.

Is swapping the 2002 engine into the 1998 going to be more trouble than swapping over the body parts? I do think the hood or at least the grille part of the hoods are different.

Would also have to swap the radiator and condensor.

Sorry to ask a bunch of things at once, just happened and the two cars aren't side by side to begin comparing. Just trying to get a plan in place ASAP. I will be back in a pickup that is mothballed right now until I can get something together.

05-04-10, 10:05 AM
If the 02 has mag ride, I would fix it instead (or in addition) to the 98.

05-04-10, 10:16 AM
The 2002 engine is entirely different from the 1998. Even most of the sensors......

05-04-10, 01:54 PM
If the 02 has mag ride, I would fix it instead (or in addition) to the 98.

Yup - fix them both - no big deal, assuming that neither is otherwise a POS.

05-04-10, 09:13 PM
you can make a 2002 engine work in a 1998 Seville

You can make it work and no DTC's will set

05-04-10, 11:03 PM
Am I correct in saying that you can make it work but it's not a drop-in swap ??

Exactly what needs to be done to "make it work" ???

Is the 1998 engine identical to the 2002 ?? All bolts, sensors, mounts, electrical connectors, fuel lines, PCM, ignition control, fuel management...............all a direct swap ????????

05-05-10, 11:37 AM
In 1998 the Seville was redesigned. This Seville ran from 1998 to 2004.
Deville got an update in 2000. This Deville ran from 2000 to 2005. This Deville is similar to the 1998 to 2004 Seville.
Eldo's never got the update.

You could roll a complete powertrain unit from a 2005 DTS under a 1998 STS and the 2005 DTS PCM will work in the 1998 STS.

You need to use the complete unit -- Engine, Trans, Harness, and PCM. You may need to repin 2 Connectors on the main harness, but it is just a few wires that need to be swapped positions.

05-05-10, 12:27 PM
So the OP's question of a simple engine swap is a bit more complicated ???:devil:

Some Car Guy
05-06-10, 12:34 AM
The wrecked car is the 02, not worth fixing and I get best friend pricing on paint and body work. Shame, it was a decent car.

How do I know what wires to redo in the 98 to make the 02 engine work? Having just spent the last two months searching for my mom a car, I know that the market is pretty, no make that VERY tight right now for decent used cars.

So fixing the 98 is an attractive option.

Another possibility is to snag a 99 model engine for 750 bucks, hope for the best, do the HG repair job before it goes in, and handle fixing the 98 model car that way. Not sure I trust the 99 engine, SUPPOSEDLY has 70 K on it, I would still do the HG job now.

Not sure I trust the 98 model engine being repaired, it got really hot 2 times. Does run with no noise though.

05-06-10, 01:46 AM
I say fix the '98 engine - then re-nstall. My '97 ETC with 158K miles has a lot more balls than my 2000 DTS with 81K miles - and both are rated 300HP. Damn near impossible to kill a N* with overheating - limp home mode and all. If possible, remove and save the 2002 engine in case you need it some day - trans also The only weak part of the '98 may be the cams wearing out at some point. That's not an issue with the 2002 - it has the roller cam followers. Still, I think it would be easier to reinstall the original '98 engine in the '98 car. Others may differ with me - just my gut.

Some Car Guy
05-06-10, 09:53 AM
So the limp home mode would have saved it from killing itself? Mom was driving it the last time, meeting a ride to get farther down the road to pick up her new car.

She said the last couple of miles it would only do about 20 MPH even held WOT. I wasn't in town to take her and who knew 3 days later the 02 car would be smashed.

I can take it to a shop not real far away and get the whole HG job done. I just don;t want to drag it down there only to find that the engine has been ran too hot for too long.

05-06-10, 10:17 AM
The "camel mode" was developed to allow the car to run for 50 miles without coolant at reduced power - the mode alternately drops pairs and quads of cylinders to hold down heat buildup. It's a feeling similar to your 02 Deville entering Torque Management due to wheelspin - cylinders are shut down sequentially.

The "limp" mode applies to stuff like ignition and fuel problems - then settings default to fixed values to allow you to get to a shop.

Some Car Guy
05-06-10, 11:35 AM
So in theory it sounds like it should be OK. It had coolant and it must have went into limp mode since the temps spiked.

It loks like it is between 2K plus my diesel costs to haul it to the shop and what kind of car we can get for around 5K. Would have to have less miles, similar options, etc.