: 2nd Design "Cartridge" Rear Main Seal



KHE
04-28-10, 03:11 PM
The service bulleting on the rear main seal states engines up to 2/29/96 build date have an 8mm depth pocket for the rear mail seal and the engines produced from 3/1/96 on have an approximate depth of 15mm for the seal to sit in. I measured my '97 block and it was 13mm. I'm assuming that is close enough to 15mm and that even though the engine has a lip seal, the cartridge seal will work. Correct? I'm assuming a 1997 engine block would have been built after 3/1/96.

tateos
04-28-10, 05:00 PM
Correct

KHE
04-28-10, 06:20 PM
Correct

That's what I thought but I do not want to have to do this job again...

tateos
04-28-10, 07:34 PM
the new design is thicker - would not fit. Also, it definitely requires a special tool - I bought it direct from SPX - paid almost $300. You can frequently find them on e-bay nowadays for about $20-30

cl1986
04-28-10, 08:40 PM
Ive got the tool i paid $30 for it and didnt need it on my 94

If you want it for that price let me know

Joe

tateos
04-28-10, 09:38 PM
Right - '94 takes the old school lip seal - that one they said required a special tool also, but it was one of those special tools that you really didn't absolutely need - you could devise something else that would work. The second design seal really does require that special tool, and it's different from the tool for the 1st design seal. I'm not sure which tool you have, but if you have the correct one for your '94 block, it will not work on the new design seal on a '97 block The new seals are 2 pieces - one piece presses into the block, the other presses onto the crankshaft output flange - different from anything I have ever seen before.

This is the tool you need - I found this for someone else recently - he bought it for a great deal - 10% of what I paid for mine, just to use it for 30-40 seconds:

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENT-MOORE-J-45930-REAR-MAIN-SEAL-INSTALLER-TOOLS_W0QQitemZ390151798476QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad6dbfecc

cl1986
04-28-10, 10:00 PM
on the 94 there was no designing involved, it simply pushes in with your fingers or light tap of screwdriver

bigds01
04-29-10, 09:53 AM
I bought j-45930a for my 94. I was going to resell it on ebay anyway after we were done, although it sounds like we didn't need it.

I really do need guidance on how to drop just the tranny. ANy help will be rewarded with basically me saying thanks.


The reason I assume it is the rear main seal is that the car leaks like a sieve only when the engine is running. Based upon everything else I have read, the oil pan or half seals don't leak as much oil as we were seeing.

cl1986
04-29-10, 11:21 AM
you have to have a jig to hold the engine in place while lowering the rest of the cradle.

You could fab one up, but shops have a specific hoist to do this. Id imagine you have to pull the hood, hold the engine by its appropriate spot, unhook the electrical to the trans.

I had enought problems seperating the engine from the trans when the whole cradle was out. I couldnt imagine doing it while in vehicle yet. Remove the starter for sure.

I would just follow the service manuals directions if this is the way you want to do it.

If it were me id drop everything then hoist the engine off. You not really saving any time by dangling the engine in the car when thats what you want to work on anyway.

tateos
04-29-10, 01:30 PM
you have to have a jig to hold the engine in place while lowering the rest of the cradle.

You could fab one up, but shops have a specific hoist to do this. Id imagine you have to pull the hood, hold the engine by its appropriate spot, unhook the electrical to the trans.

I had enought problems seperating the engine from the trans when the whole cradle was out. I couldnt imagine doing it while in vehicle yet. Remove the starter for sure.

I would just follow the service manuals directions if this is the way you want to do it.

If it were me id drop everything then hoist the engine off. You not really saving any time by dangling the engine in the car when thats what you want to work on anyway.

I couldn't have said it better myself - perfectly put!

tateos
04-29-10, 01:58 PM
you have to have a jig to hold the engine in place while lowering the rest of the cradle.

You could fab one up, but shops have a specific hoist to do this. Id imagine you have to pull the hood, hold the engine by its appropriate spot, unhook the electrical to the trans.

I had enought problems seperating the engine from the trans when the whole cradle was out. I couldnt imagine doing it while in vehicle yet. Remove the starter for sure.

I would just follow the service manuals directions if this is the way you want to do it.

If it were me id drop everything then hoist the engine off. You not really saving any time by dangling the engine in the car when thats what you want to work on anyway.

I couldn't have said it better myself - perfectly put!