: Are these just native quirks, or issues I should look into?



WesH8398
04-21-10, 12:49 AM
Hey everyone. I'm about 3 weeks into owning my "new" 2006 CTS-V, and while I'm absolutely loving it, there are a few things I'm hearing and/or feeling that I wanted to get some opinions on. I'll be the first to admit that I'm VERY picky about sounds and other anomalies my vehicles make ... which I think is a good thing, but it drives my wife nuts. Anyway...here are a couple things I've noticed. If anyone could comment on whether they think it needs attention or if it's just a quirk that's part of owning a V, that'd be great!

1) Bit of a 'jolt' on start-up. I can't really describe it, but it's not a smooth start-up like others cars I've owned. It still starts just fine, but right when the motor sparks up there's a definite jolt that can be felt and heard. I'm not used to such a beefy motor, so maybe it's part and parcel of that...?

2) Engine vibration at ~2,000 RPM. It doesn't seem to be rear-end related. It's present regardless of the gear I'm in or speed I'm going. Anytime around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM there's a faint vibration that can be felt throughout the car as well as in the steering wheel. This also seems to happen at idle but it's not as noticeable.

**Before moving to #3, an idea ... does 1+2 = possible engine mount issue?**

3) This wouldn't be a complete list without something pertaining to a rear-end issue. lol Fortunately I'm not getting any grinding or any abnormal sounds on turns, etc. But I am getting a whine from about 1,800 - 2,200 RPM's. It's most noticeable in 4th gear, but seems to be present in all gears. Also noteworthy is that it's only present on light acceleration or maintaining an RPM in that range. It's not there on deceleration and it's not there on moderate to heavy acceleration. My previous vehicle was a Mustang that whined on deceleration after I installed a 3.73 gear, so I'm totally used to the sound and it doesn't bother me ... but if it's a sign of things to come than I'll look into it further. The Mustang taught me that sometimes it's best to just leave well enough alone though. That, after re-installing that 3.73 a number of times before realizing that it just wasn't going to be a quiet gear.

4) Shifting isn't smooth at all. I've read a lot about the stock shifter being crap to begin with, so this is probably all part of that. It just doesn't seem to go from gear to gear very smoothly. I feel like I've really got to muscle it into each gear. My wife's car is a Mazda 3, so maybe comparing shifters isn't apples to apples.


Besides some issues with "personalizing" some controls (which I started another topic on), that's about all I can think of. Any input is greatly appreciated!!

Cheers!!

rand49er
04-21-10, 08:50 AM
From what you describe, it could be the motor mounts, but you don't say anything about engine shutdown, so I'm not sure. Might be a good idea to get under there and see if you can spot any MM leakage.

The other vibration your referring to may be a concern and may not. V8 engines go through different peaks and valleys of vibrations and harmonics as they move through the RPM range. Are you (maybe) just over sensitive in looking for something? I can tell you that going from the OEM flywheel to a lightweight FW has exposed some rawness of vibration at low RPMs in my motor that wasn't there before when it was masked by the heavier weight.

As far as your shifting is concerned, make sure you check your hydraulic clutch fluid level. If too low, you may want to bleed it or just plain flush the system and install new fluid. Beyond that, not sure what to tell you.

You'll have to come over the Blue Water bridge and visit some of us Yanks some time. Woodward Dream Cruise is in August. :highfive:

Houdini
04-21-10, 11:55 AM
Sounds like motor mounts and that can also cause the shifting problems you describe. As rand49er said, try bleeding the clutch.

WesH8398
04-21-10, 12:32 PM
Yah, there are no issues with engine shutdown. I've also read of others with MM problems having clunking or banging when shifting from gear to gear - which I don't seem to have either. I'll try to get under the car soon and have a good look. If it comes down to it I'll have the wife load up the motor with the emergency break on and I'll have a look at engine movement ...

My first day owning the car, I checked all the fluids. The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir was empty but it only took a couple ounces to top it up.

Speaking of all this ... does Chilton's or Haynes make a manual for our cars yet? I haven't been able to find one yet.

Oleksakjr
04-21-10, 09:10 PM
i got the same whinning to you, but no leaky diff or grinding or anything, ill have to wait and see what the oldhats gotta say...

darkman
04-21-10, 09:28 PM
Speaking of all this ... does Chilton's or Haynes make a manual for our cars yet? I haven't been able to find one yet.

Go to HelmInc.com - $135 will get three 3-inch thick factory authorzed Service Manuals that you will not regret buying.

The whine you describe is the standard whine many of these differentials develope over time. If you want to verify it just test drive it with the rear-seat trunk access open - if it is the differential it will be louder.

Aron9000
04-21-10, 09:47 PM
Go to HelmInc.com - $135 will get three 3-inch thick factory authorzed Service Manuals that you will not regret buying.

The whine you describe is the standard whine many of these differentials develope over time. If you want to verify it just test drive it with the rear-seat trunk access open - if it is the differential it will be louder.

I'd search ebay first before shelling out $135. Last two factory service manuals(printed by GM) ran less than $25 each. I'm sure there are a lot of used copies out there with the number of dealers out of business.

WesH8398
04-21-10, 11:43 PM
I'd search ebay first before shelling out $135. Last two factory service manuals(printed by GM) ran less than $25 each. I'm sure there are a lot of used copies out there with the number of dealers out of business.

I'm all about Ebay, so that's exactly where I was headed! haha Appreciate the tip though!! Would there be much difference between the model years 04-07? Or should I shop for a 2006 manual set only?




The whine you describe is the standard whine many of these differentials develope over time. If you want to verify it just test drive it with the rear-seat trunk access open - if it is the differential it will be louder.

I know a differential whine, and this is definitely what I'm hearing. My concern was more regarding whether the whine was "normal" or a sign of premature wear and/or problems down the road. Like "Oleksakjr", I'm not getting any grinding or leaking, so I'm hoping the whine isn't a sign of something bad.

heavymetals
04-22-10, 03:53 AM
Have you visited Reed's FAQ's?

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/

There is a lot of info available that can save you the cost of a manual.

Houdini
04-22-10, 09:57 AM
the service manuals that you can buy... how do they compare to gmtechline on the computer or alldata products? I have both gmtechline and the alldata stuff and they seem to have everything. I'm wondering if the service manuals provide more detail/pics?

WesH8398
04-22-10, 09:20 PM
I came across those FAQ's today - definitely very helpful!! They're bookmarked, that's for sure.

A bit of an update:
I had the car at a shop today (to do the muffler delete) and I took advantage of it being up on the hoist and had a good look under there. I was able to get a good look at the passenger and driver's side motor mounts and both appeared as if they'd been through a muddy drive .. I'm not sure if this mud-looking stuff was leaked mount fluid/grease or if it was actually dirt. Both mounts looked like this though. That evidence along with the trans taking some effort to get into gear sometimes, I'm leaning towards the mounts being shot...or at least on their way out.

stixx
04-23-10, 02:13 PM
Got my motor mounts replace on my 2006 yesterday and I cant believe what a difference it made. I would bet that your issues #1 and #2 would be resolved if your mounts were replaced.

WesH8398
04-23-10, 08:24 PM
Can the mounts be done without an engine hoist? If not, how many hours do you guys figure a shop should charge to do the mounts?

darkman
04-23-10, 09:48 PM
Attached

WesH8398
04-23-10, 11:09 PM
Attached

Wow..those are great!! Do you mind me asking what program that is? Or is it a scan/copy of the GM service manual? Regardless, I really appreciate it!
If I don't have the confidence or time to tackle this myself, how much time would you say a shop should be charging to do this job?

darkman
04-24-10, 09:51 AM
Standard flat rate manual = 4.6 hours, hourly labor rates, of course vary from shop to shop.

Vee
04-24-10, 11:53 AM
Are MM's covered under the GM Warranty?

darkman
04-24-10, 01:12 PM
Are MM's covered under the GM Warranty?


Yes, and therein lies a conundrum-the warranty only gets you a fresh set of OEM mounts.

WesH8398
04-24-10, 10:08 PM
Are MM's covered under the GM Warranty?


Yes, and therein lies a conundrum-the warranty only gets you a fresh set of OEM mounts.

I've read that some dealerships will still cover the labour if you supply aftermarket MM's...
Unfortunately I'm beyond the warranty at 57,000 miles. I've been in touch with Max from Creative Steel and plan on buying a set of new MM's from him. My wife and I had a deal that if I got this car I wouldn't dump any money into it until we first paid off a good chunk of the loan, so the cost of the MM's is enough to set her off. Labour costs for 4.5 hours of work is going to be WAAAY too much, so I don't know what I'm going to do. Thanks to Darkman I've got those instructions, so maybe I'll tackle it myself. I have to say I'm a little uneasy about it though.
I read somewhere on here that people have swapped MM's withOUT having to remove the passenger side cat or the starter. If that's actually do-able, than I'm a lot more willing to give it a shot. Although madman's .pdf files are great, I'll take any other tips/tricks and/or instructions too!!

WesH8398
04-26-10, 11:40 PM
Here's a picture of one of my MM's. Would you guys think the dried mud-lookin stuff is leaked fluid? Nothing else in that immediate area looks like that, so I'm thinkin that's what it is. Regardless, a set of Max's mounts is definitely on my wish-list. I just wish I felt a little more comfortable with doing the job.

CTSV468
02-14-12, 11:46 AM
Just got my 2006 V last night and noticed the same jolt at startup that you describe, haven't driven enough to notice the rough idle, whine and/or hard shifting.

Did you do the mounts yourself?

CancerJCC
02-15-12, 08:05 AM
Did you do the mounts yourself?

Go for it. Best "mod" you can do hands down if yours are shot.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzOpfqZM1cE


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GJ7N8FU_r4

CTSV468
02-15-12, 06:40 PM
Did the mm's cure the jolt? Or are you finding this is the normal startup for this engine?

LS6Steve
02-16-12, 03:09 AM
Another dual mass flywheel bites the dust.

Start with the mounts, but I'm betting the flywheel play is causing the jolt. I had the same issue, post motor mount install. Time to pull out the checkbook for a new clutch!

CTSV468
02-17-12, 02:53 PM
Can you explain how the flywheel play is causing the jolt?

Where does the flywheel play come from?

So, I need a new flywheel and/or clutch?

Thanks!

darkman
02-17-12, 04:04 PM
Can you explain how the flywheel play is causing the jolt?

Where does the flywheel play come from?

So, I need a new flywheel and/or clutch?

Thanks!

The dual-mass flywheel, unlike the conventional single-mass flywheel, consists of more than a single piece and is a spring-loaded unit. It is designed to absorb some the engine vibration and torsional force from the crank. Once the internal spring strength deteriorates the dual-mass flywheel no longer dampens with the engine vibration or the torsional force from the crank. Our clutch disc, on the other hand, is not spring loaded like those commonly found in clutch setups.

By the time the dual-mass flywheel fails most folks also need a new clutch disc and pressure plate, although that is not an absolute rule. Additionally, most will replace the entire clutch system given the amount of labor required just to access the various components.

lollygagger8
02-17-12, 04:08 PM
Can the mounts be done without an engine hoist? If not, how many hours do you guys figure a shop should charge to do the mounts?

You can use a thick piece of wood the size of the oil pan and lift the engine high enough to get the mounts out. I did mine that way (both times)

The fluid that comes out of the stock MM's is initially green, but after it dries, it's brown. Almost looks like an oil leak.

I would guess your mounts are bad. Everyone's stockers go bad eventually.

Shifting would be dramatically improved with a clutch bleed. Also, get a short shifter mod from PISINUOFF. That will help even more.

The whine is most likely your diff. Just a quirk. You'll either learn to deal with it, or replace it with a 8.8" or a 9" like me :lildevil: