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Guys with 10.5'' rims on there cars please step inside

13K views 113 replies 27 participants last post by  maxspeed96ct 
#1 ·
I have decided to go with a 10.5'' rim with a 305 tire combo on my V. In an effort to maximize my down time I really want to order my rims while my car is at Madman's. My original intention was to do some extensive measuring once I received my new trailing arms, but MAP seems a little slow so I had to send my car out first, without taking measurements.

I need real world offset, backspacing specs and info from anyone who has successfully fit a 10.5'' wheel neatly under there car. Please post up any info and pictures you can offer so I can order my new rims ASAP. Thanks
 
#2 ·
I have not read anything on a V with 10.5" rims. A few of us run 10" CCWs, but no one with 305s.

Why not have Madman get you the wheels, tires, & fit-up to test it when he's doing your car??

10.5" to 11.5" required for 305s. 11" being ideal. Are you going 19s or 20s and what diameter overall on all 4s??

Have Madman do the offset trailing arms & anything else back there while he's got it. One stop shop/less headaches for you.

You sir, are now in a different league, than the rest of us.
And, good luck.
 
#17 ·
The shop who might do my widening will make them any size..so for piece of mind why not just have him widen them to 10 3/8 or 10 7/16...a spacer will just bring it out further towards the fender:hmm: i am not autocrossing my car.. and if i go fast it will be on a straight road....so what do u think......thanks Greg
 
#11 ·
i run 20x10.5 in the rear with a 285 tire. it sits beyond flush (1mm give or take) up against the fender it tucks. i don't see you running a 305 without other mods. some on here have a ran a 295 but it sticks out slightly.
I'm running 9.5' hre's with 295/35/18 bfg drag radials & just like you say They stick out slightly. If I don't keep the air bags with some air in them they rub the fender under acceleration.
The room just isn't there... period.
Don't see any way I could go an inch wider with the wheel & put 305's on it unless there are some other mods, first being the inner fender (frame), which has less than 3/4'' clearance now.
Anyone going in with the intentions of 10.5 wheels with 305's better have a big F**king hammer or figure on puttin about 1-1/2" outside the fender
 
#14 ·
This should be good.
 
#15 ·
Spectre Werks still lists the fender flares on their site, http://www.spectergtr.com/cadillac-exterior/ . Some people think such is cheese, but Chef did them on his car (you must do all four corners) and the pics were awesome. I searched for pics, could not find any, but I am sure others will attest that it makes the V look meaner, not ricey.
The flares are not cheap, I think they ran around $2K unpainted, install has to be done by a good shop, but in the end you may be able to go 11.5" with a 325.
 
#108 ·
Spectre Werks still lists the fender flares on their site, http://www.spectergtr.com/cadillac-exterior/ . Some people think such is cheese, but Chef did them on his car (you must do all four corners) and the pics were awesome. I searched for pics, could not find any, but I am sure others will attest that it makes the V look meaner, not ricey.
The flares are not cheap, I think they ran around $2K unpainted, install has to be done by a good shop, but in the end you may be able to go 11.5" with a 325.
It was a cool V OBC.
 
#16 ·
Found a pic:
 

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#18 ·
I was lookin at my rear end too. That trailing arm really limits what you can put back there...I wonder what the offset version looks like...

Is it the same length but moved to the side? or does it have an extra bend in it...
 
#25 ·
OR

you could get rims (or have yours widened) set with the correct backspacing, then minorly tub out the rear of the car so it isn't a "goodnuff" situation with your tires and big bumps. :highfive:

Everyone who does the 315 rears will require substantial modification to the rear of the car, or at least based on everything I'm measuring. Of course, if you're willing to spend 250+ per tire, obviously you don't care about blowing money.
 
#26 ·
Yes, i care about blowing money.:rolleyes:.I already have over$2,500.00 in just rubber sitting in my garage.. MAP saids i can put 315's inside the wheelwells and maybe with a 5mm space and i am taking him on his word on that...nobody has yet to put 315's on.. and if i get my wheels widened to 10 1/2"...and my 315's won't fit...i will be:annoyed:
one unhappy camper..Anyway, ready to pull off hub and take it to the shop so he can cut and balance rims...should have them done in a few days. I will post results asap...:alchi: damn i need to chill with a beer
 
#30 · (Edited)
ah...this again.

I'm rolling 295/35-19s right now, the new wheeldude 19x10. I do not know what the backspace in inches are, didn't get a response from Dan BUT i cant go any further out at all and on the inside i have just ever so slightly more of a gap in the inner frame as the trailing arm. Keep in mind my new tires are a full 27", roughly .4" taller than stock size.

The widened trailing arms may provide a little more clearance, but if you're that far in you'll be dangerously close to the inner frame. I tried and the inner frame isn't pliable at all. Just be warned, they'll be more mods needed as Voodoo said.

Also, at full droop, there's only a sheet of paper's width between my 295 and the inner frame, and actually a pinky finger gap between the 295 and trailing arm. Under load the gap widens in both areas, but look below, no way that's going further out and wouldn't be safe closer in...and that's a 10" wheel, not a 10.5". If you go 10.5", just be ready for the rear tires to hang up on the inner frame if you jack it up. You'll have to consider jacking it up from the lower arms and just hope it doesn't hit under shock compression.

as seen here...you can't go further out at all, even with 275s it would be tight to the lip... (look close at pic 3 and 4)
http://www.gearnutlab.com/p445927940
 
#39 ·
You really cant use your rims as a measuring stick because they are 19s and we dont know the offset but I hear your concerns.
 
#31 ·
If your fitting 295's on your car, 315's are only .395" closer to the body of the car. This is why I recommended the 5mm - 10mm spacer to bring the tire away from the body of the car, a fender roll is recommended as well.

I guess I wasn't too far off with my measurements. All tire sized that I stated were based off the measurements I gathered while the car was in the air with stock 245's on it.

Radar, if your going to be a unhappy camper because you purchased tires based off measurement I provided before even installing these arms on my own ca. I would be upset with the person starring back at you in the mirror. You jumped the gun on buying the tires because of the good deal, way before anybody even got a set of trailing arms or tested them on the car. You bought the tires before you even got the trailing arms you ordered. You also jumped the gun BIG time when installing the trailing arms, and you went ahead and cut the car up without even giving me a chance to reply to your post on the boards here. Yes, I should of posted the installation instructions before I shipped out the trailing arms, but out of 30 people that received a set of our trailing arms, only two people contacted me for instructions on how to install them. Its just like replacing an OEM piece, so I figured most of it was common knowledge.

Like stated in the original trailing arm thread, fitting a 315 on a lowered car is going to be a little tougher however I don't doubt that it can be done. Once someone can widen my wheels in a reasonable amount of time, 315 D/R's will be going on my car regardless of what it takes.
 
#32 ·
here is your original thread and just a few other post u made.



Well, just wanted to get a post together of everyone that would be interested in custom trailing arms for the CTS-V that will allow you to put up to a 325 tire under our car.

Please post if you would be interested or DEFINITELY YES for a set of these. Once I show the demand for these to the fabricators, it will motivate them more to get them done before spring hits.

Once we get a set made we will post up pricing. We will probably make 20-25 of these and then if they fly off the shelves we will continue to make them. But if they don't move too fast we will probably make the 20-25 sets and that will be the end of it. So act fast once they are available.

I will be making a list here on the first post of all the users interested in the trailing arms, and another list of users DEFINITELY YES for the trailing arms.

This is the original thread, u made it sound pretty enticing. and a lot of members signed up for that reason only..and that is to have more rubber.......


So far without a spacer the first prototype will fit a 325 tire without a problem.



Heh, I'm personally going to run Mickey E/T Streets on the highway/cruises. I think if I can find a steel wheel that will fit our cars, I might put the E/T streets on steelies and in the trunk when I go out on the weekends for some fun. If not, I'm going to ride on them all the time (I don't drive my car that much, 7 miles everyday) then get a set of CCW's made for the street and run 315's out back and 275's up front.
:wtf3: these posts were made by u NOT ME !!! If my 315's don't fit on my stock silver 10 1/2" rims, then it looks like YOU jumped the gun:thepan:..i bought 315-30-18's which u said WILL WORK...so don't give me any bs. about how they now they won't fit..other members have told u it's almost impossible to do, but u insisted that a 315 will easily fit...so i bought the arms and tires on that premise...My shop will have rims and tires ready probably wed. or thur... We shall see then
 
#33 ·
i agree this whole thing was not done correctly. I believe that any forum sponsor should have a proven/tested product before being able to take anyone's money. This MAP trailing arm thing is going to leave a lot of people mad. MAP, although excited and willing to invest in the V community, was being overly optimistic up front, yet guys still threw money at him. I don't really get that, but to each his own. I've worked silently with a couple of vendors here testing products but you didn't see them taking pre-orders for things that hadn't been proven. Now they've got tested and proven products that are or will be sold to the public w/o all the drama.

Let this be a lesson to vendors and forum member/buyers. Maybe i'm just skeptical because in my industry, critical components must be verified, tested, and stamped with approval before being sold.
 
#34 ·
The problem that arose was that was right off the start, I could never go back and edit the first post. As things came together and people that have had experience shed some light I changed the sizing down to a 315. I also posted that I didn't recommend people to buy any tires until I tested and had proven results. It seems like Radar did that work for me in a sense because he was more anxious to buy tires before I was able to heh.

Not saying anything bad about ya Radar, it just seems like your more excited than anyone else I know about modding his V which is a good thing, but with modding comes patience. I personally like our babbles back and forth because it leads to more information being brought to the table.

I touched on the note that the arms were originally not designed to allow a wider tire/wheel, but to decrease front to back slop. Quoted from another thread:

We aren't doing this trailing arm kit to just fit a huge rear tire on the car, it is also a piece to the wheel hop puzzle. The front bushing on the trailing arm is horrible, and the hub bushing where the trailing arm bolts in the rear is a joke. We can take a screw driver and put it in the center of the stock bushing and pull slightly and the sleeve going through the center of the bushing touches the hub its mounted in. THIS IS NOT GOOD.

Front to back play in a suspension is almost the number one cause of wheel hop. I have been racing FWD cars for a VERY long time and the cure for wheel hop on those cars is stopping front to back play. They offer "traction arm" kits for FWD cars that keep the front control arms from moving front to back and it eliminates wheel hop 100% on FWD cars. The same applies to to RWD cars, Camber, front to back movement in the suspension, and axle harmonics play a huge part in wheel hop. Any play in the rear suspension for that matter causes wheel hop.

It sounds silly, but we are going to apply FWD technology to a RWD car (My CTS-V) and we are going to try to eliminate wheel hop 100%. Trailing arms ( Front to back play) Is just the first step, while allowing a wider tire** as well and adding rigidity to the rear suspension. Our trailing arm is going to allow smooth rotation with a spherical bushing, strength from DOM tubing, and design that won't put stress on any other components with a previously mentioned "Odd Angle".
The fact of the matter is, the design changed to allow people that wanted a wider tire like a 305 or up size tire would need the trailing arm regardless. The original design like I stated was going to be a straight tailing arm just like BMR's but with rear hub bushings and a superior front bushing. Everyone that heard I was going to produce trailing arms wanted "offset" trailing arms to allow for a wider tire. I did just that and produced the trailing arm then get hounded for it. The factory trailing arm will allow a 10" wide wheel with close to factory offset, one of my customers "gerry" has a 9.5" wheel and he is rubbing the factory trailing arm, so he needs our kit badly.

As stated in the original thread, the trailing arm is a piece to the wheel-hop puzzle and the wider wheel/tire puzzle. Just the trailing arm alone is not going to allow a wider tire, you will need to remove the dust cover on the coilover, move some brake lines, and possibly look into another sway bar. These trailing arms WILL allow you to run a wider rim which is obviously the safe way to install wider tires. CTS-Voodoo mentioned all this when he was the original guy to do offset trailing arms. He mentioned everything in the original trailing arm thread I started. Just trailing arms will not allow you to run a wider tire.

Me personally, I still am going to run a 325 tire. I will make it fit, that is not an issue. I will post the process and the results as soon as they are available.

I guess I will second guess the new products that we are producing (i.e. Titanium intake, differential brace, wheel hop kit, toe-rods, turbo kit, etc etc) Might just end up "one-off"
 
#48 ·
The problem that arose was that was right off the start, I could never go back and edit the first post. As things came together and people that have had experience shed some light I changed the sizing down to a 315. I also posted that I didn't recommend people to buy any tires until I tested and had proven results. It seems like Radar did that work for me in a sense because he was more anxious to buy tires before I was able to heh.

Not saying anything bad about ya Radar, it just seems like your more excited than anyone else I know about modding his V which is a good thing, but with modding comes patience. I personally like our babbles back and forth because it leads to more information being brought to the table.

I touched on the note that the arms were originally not designed to allow a wider tire/wheel, but to decrease front to back slop. Quoted from another thread:



The fact of the matter is, the design changed to allow people that wanted a wider tire like a 305 or up size tire would need the trailing arm regardless. The original design like I stated was going to be a straight tailing arm just like BMR's but with rear hub bushings and a superior front bushing. Everyone that heard I was going to produce trailing arms wanted "offset" trailing arms to allow for a wider tire. I did just that and produced the trailing arm then get hounded for it. The factory trailing arm will allow a 10" wide wheel with close to factory offset, one of my customers "gerry" has a 9.5" wheel and he is rubbing the factory trailing arm, so he needs our kit badly.

As stated in the original thread, the trailing arm is a piece to the wheel-hop puzzle and the wider wheel/tire puzzle. Just the trailing arm alone is not going to allow a wider tire, you will need to remove the dust cover on the coilover, move some brake lines, and possibly look into another sway bar. These trailing arms WILL allow you to run a wider rim which is obviously the safe way to install wider tires. CTS-Voodoo mentioned all this when he was the original guy to do offset trailing arms. He mentioned everything in the original trailing arm thread I started. Just trailing arms will not allow you to run a wider tire.

Me personally, I still am going to run a 325 tire. I will make it fit, that is not an issue. I will post the process and the results as soon as they are available.

I guess I will second guess the new products that we are producing (i.e. Titanium intake, differential brace, wheel hop kit, toe-rods, turbo kit, etc etc) Might just end up "one-off"


Just wanted to requote, just incase some missed it. It seems like the same question was asked again.

As far as the second batch, you pm'd me and I gave you an update. Its hard to produce the 20 sets of trailing arms that are required in order for the Zinc company to even touch our order. Especially when we are in the midst of building another shop car that has a very short deadline. Both fabricators were arm deep in the EVO hand fabricating everything.

Also we make a bunch of other products that are built to order, with an order from one of our vendors (We do wholesale as well) comes through for 15 of our EVO downpipes, when we just finishing up our first batch of trailing arms. The fab guys get backed up and the second batch can't be built until the Downpipe order is complete.

We didn't realize that so many orders were going to come through for the trailing arms. Once the first 30 sets were gone before the second batch was even started we had to reorder the CNC pieces for the second batch which took 2-weeks to get. We get all our CNC work done by a Federal/Military contracted company which has prioritized work, which kind of sucks but the end result is 100% dead on.

The trailing arm is needed to go wider than a 295 tire, or anything wider than a 10" rim. They still are doing their job, they allow you to run a wider tire. However mentioned over and over again just bolting on our trailing arm kit is not going to allow you to run a 295+ tire, you will need to use a spacer if you plan on running a stock widened rim. Some rims with a lower than ET40 offset in the rear should be fine as the wheel comes away from the body with a lower offset, unless you add ALOT of width. Just like the example above, Gerry has a 9.5" rim and hits the factory trailing arm. If your thinking about purchasing this modification please make sure it is right for you.
 
#35 · (Edited)
the rims and 315's will be mounted next week and we shall see even with spacers etc. if they fit...the 315's are 30's so that should help..my V has Eibach's and lower that does not help the situation for 315's but according to u the new arms with the bushing work better on a lowered vehicle i guess for handling and wear purposes...Anyway, still hoping they will fit.. MAP, if they don't,, get those other parts made so we can make'm fit[gitterdun son]:wisdom:life is getting short...lol
 
#37 ·
I beat the crap out of my car with a sledge about that size lol I couldn't get it to budge. But I was on stands. A little heat and being on a lift would help a lot.
 
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