: Head Gasket Repair



eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 07:26 PM
First of all allow me to introduce myself, my name is Erik im 20 years old and im in love with Cadillacs.A few months ago i bought a 1997 deville with a blown head gasket for $700. A tech i know who has never had a comeback from timeserting engines ( has time-serted numerous northstars for his own family) helped me out. Anyways today i finally finished everything, since we had the engine out i replaced almost all the seals. So after im done with everything i start it up but i notice the temperature rises pretty fast. Im very concerned about it so my question to you guys is basically what happens as far as coolant temperature and all that other good stuff, there is no SES light. Thanks for the help.

Ranger
03-29-10, 07:47 PM
I'm not following the question.

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 07:49 PM
Sorry let me clarify, after the inserts are put in and the repair is done. When i start the car the coolant temperature jumps up a lil too fast for me, is that normal?

Submariner409
03-29-10, 07:53 PM
Not sure whether you have a gauge or a digital bar readout.............

The thermostat is set to begin at 188 and be fully open at 206. Fans run in slow with any HVAC function that calls for the A/C compressor to run, including defrost. If A/C is not set, then the fans are controlled by the coolant temp sensor only and will come on in SLOW at 224 degrees and FAST at 236.

Initial warmup should be fast - the gauge/bars should get to that 12:00/center bar quickly - the system is set up that way. BUT then the gauge/bars should stay steady unless you're in heavy traffic.

Coolant level should be halfway up in the tank, cold - no higher than that. Another check is the purge line - that small hose which runs from the upper side of the coolant reservoir to the water pump housing nipple (actually a hollow bolt). The purge line constantly pisses a stream of coolant from the water pump discharge to the reservoir in order to purge the coolant of air and gasses in order to prevent corrosion and water pump cavitation from air bubbles. With the engine cold, remove the tank cap and the tank end of the purge line. Hold the end of the purge line in the tank neck. Have an assistant start the engine and check that a stream of coolant flows from the purge line.

After a few days of level checks the coolant level should stabilize at halfway up in the tank, cold.

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 07:57 PM
Thanks for the response sub, the dash is a digital one but it doesnt have a bar. I have to go by the actual number the IPC says, when it i seen it quickly jumped to about 210 i shut the car off. This was my first major job so im very nervous.

Ranger
03-29-10, 08:34 PM
210 is normal operating temperature. I think it will get to about 240 before it will start sending messages.

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 08:39 PM
210 is normal operating temperature. I think it will get to about 240 before it will start sending messages.
But at the rate of speed in which the temp was rising i think it wouldve passed 240

Skiller.
03-29-10, 08:52 PM
Take it for a drive and get it up to operating temperature if all repairs are done. It's hard to say there's a problem if you haven't tested it yet.

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 09:00 PM
I guess im just paranoid with all the doom and gloom stories i read on here about the HGs

cl1986
03-29-10, 09:48 PM
n* temps rise fast, works awesome in winter time, quickest car to warm up that i know off

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 10:02 PM
n* temps rise fast, works awesome in winter time, quickest car to warm up that i know off

Too fast if you ask me lol

Skiller.
03-29-10, 10:19 PM
I guess im just paranoid with all the doom and gloom stories i read on here about the HGs

You just had it repaired?! Go enjoy the car!

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 10:24 PM
You just had it repaired?! Go enjoy the car!

Hopefully i will

Ranger
03-29-10, 10:58 PM
The temp should not rise THAT fast. How long does it take to reach 210? Is the purge line clear?

eghernandez2007
03-29-10, 11:01 PM
To tell you the truth im not sure and i didnt even bother to check, it was 5 o clock i was ready to go home but i just wanted to make sure it started

creeker
03-29-10, 11:54 PM
To tell you the truth im not sure and i didnt even bother to check, it was 5 o clock i was ready to go home but i just wanted to make sure it started

Are you sure your coolant level is correct?.

90BeigeElDorado
03-30-10, 12:25 AM
How fast is too fast? Are we talking 2 minutes of idling and boom, 210? Or do you let it idle for 5 minutes and check it? As stated earlier, check the purge line to make sure that it is not obstructed. Check for any leaks, if all is clear, and the coolant level in the tank is halfway up when cold, then go drive it. The only way you are going to know it is overheating is by getting it up to temp and monitering the display. After driving it for 30 minutes with some stop and go driving post the highest temp it hits. Someone on here will let you know if it too high. Good luck.

eghernandez2007
04-06-10, 05:15 PM
Hey you guys sorry i took forever but u guys were right by opening up the purge line, once air and steam stopped coming out and only coolant came out its running good. As far as driving it with the A/C on the highest the coolant temperature went was about 221-223 but it came back down to the 212 range.

Submariner409
04-06-10, 06:42 PM
Check your fan relay block and the maxi-fuses in the underhood box. Fans should run in SLOW whenever any A/C function is set, and the gauge should sit at 12:00 or so - rock solid.

Don't forget: the proper coolant level is about halfway up in the reservoir, COLD.

eghernandez2007
04-06-10, 08:23 PM
Thanks, How fast is it suppose to get to running temperature?

coaster
04-06-10, 10:08 PM
take it from me just let your hair down and drive it like you stole it and have fun the problem is over you fixed it now enjoy:):yup:

Ranger
04-06-10, 10:08 PM
5 minutes or so depending on ambient temperatures. It will take longer at -20 than it will at +70.

eghernandez2007
04-06-10, 10:41 PM
oh ok good, seems like everything is workin fine but the fuel level sensor

Skiller.
04-06-10, 10:58 PM
oh ok good, seems like everything is workin fine but the fuel level sensor
Try a bottle of Chevron Techron (20 gal tank treatment). Dump it into your fuel tank near empty and refuel. It's proven to clean up fuel sensors within the fuel tank. If it's really bad, you may need to treat it twice.

http://content.costco.com/Images/Content/Product/11579b.jpg

zonie77
04-07-10, 11:44 AM
Try a bottle of Chevron Techron (20 gal tank treatment). Dump it into your fuel tank near empty and refuel. It's proven to clean up fuel sensors within the fuel tank. If it's really bad, you may need to treat it twice.

http://content.costco.com/Images/Content/Product/11579b.jpg

Skiller's instructions are right...don't be tempted to run in stronger than that.

maeng9981
04-13-10, 08:06 PM
However, if you are getting "open or shorted" codes from your fuel sensor (i.e. PZM B0533), it won't fix the problem.

In order to get access to the fuel tank/fuel sensor, you need to drop the fuel tank.......

ponyboyt
04-14-10, 12:52 PM
all this talk of fast warmup... i always thought northstars took longer? In the winter mine would NEVER get to normal temp by idling in the driveway, i had to drive it. Even now in the spring on warm days.... in the morning when i go to work, its just under 3km, and i stop at tim hortons on the way (usualy 5-10 cars in line) and it still does not hit 12 oclock by the time i pull into the parking lot at work. Unless i peel outa hortons......

Always hated how cold mine runs, its a noisy engine when its cold :P

Submariner409
04-14-10, 03:15 PM
3km = 1.8 miles = extremely short-hop driving. Your OLM must decrease rapidly; that sort of driving is murder on an engine and oil because, regardless of where the temp gauge is the whole engine system is not "warmed up" until greater than 10 miles have been covered ! I would expect the gauge to hit about 12:00 at >3km or 2 miles - then the coolant begins fully circulating in the block/heads, but the oil, cam drive and lower end of the engine continue to warm up for the aforementioned 10 miles.

Go back to Post #4 to get an idea of temps and bounce that against the 188 degree number - that's when the thermostat begins to open, and it's not fully open until 206, so a Northstar normally runs with the thermostat open about 75% to 80%.

Ranger
04-14-10, 04:39 PM
that sort of driving is murder on an engine and oil
Doesn't do the exhaust system any good either.