: Proper drive cycle to register EVAP monitor for emissions



dixit
02-28-10, 09:12 PM
So took the car in the dealer a week ago to have the inside door handles replaced cause the chrome was peeling. Went to get emissions checked and it failed because the status was NOT READY. Upon hooking up my OBDII scanner I see that the EVAP monitor is the only one left still under pending not complete status.

So seems like the dealer either reset the codes (which there was none) or disconnected the battery just to replace the door handles. Well I didnt know so thats why the emissions is failing. Well Ive driving this joker about 200 miles and had about 24 ignition cycles, even tried the GM Drive cycle posted online at many websites. But for the life of my I cannot get this damn EVAP monitor to activate/register. Ive gone from a full tank to almost 1/4 tank now and been driving this joker in city traffic, drove it almost 150miles of hwy, still nothing.

Anyone have the proper method to get this damn EVAP register? I wish the dealer wouldve told me they were going to remove the battery, this emissions thing is killing me. Also zero modifications on this car, its all stock engine wise.

Dixit

dixit
03-02-10, 08:13 PM
If anyone has access to factory service manuals Id be grateful if someone can lookup what the procedure is to activate or complete the EVAP monitor. Ive put a good 300miles on this truck and still cant get this bad boy to activate. Ive done 2mins cold starts, even upto 18 min cold startups. Driven pure city, even drove 100miles on the hwy one day and still nothing. Gas has gone from a full tank to almost empty and Im getting nothing here. Not sure what the procedure is for EVAP.

I did read somewhere that temps must be supposedly above 40-50F outside, if thats the case then that might be my problem since its been freezing here in Atlanta lately. But Ive tried damn near 5 different drive cycles I saw online for GMs, none of them seem to help my EVAP not ready/not complete issue. Again I have no codes, its just that the dealer must have disconnected the battery and cleared the readiness.

Thanks
Dixit

dixit
03-09-10, 06:51 PM
Since I didnt get any responses for a few weeks I figured this out myself, you cant exactly use the generic GM Drive cycle that is posted all over the internet, below is the EXACT info.

================================================== =

Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) Complete System Set Procedure
Diagnostic Instructions
Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provide an overview of each diagnostic category.

Description
The purpose of the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) complete system set procedure is to satisfy the enable criteria necessary to execute all of the I/M readiness diagnostics and complete the drive cycles for those particular diagnostics. When all I/M monitored diagnostic tests are completed, the I/M System Status indicators are set to YES. Perform the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) Complete System Set Procedure if any I/M System Status indicators are set to NO.

I/M Data List
To determine if the I/M readiness diagnostic tests can be run this ignition cycle, use a scan tool to observe the I/M monitor enabled parameters in the I/M Data List.

Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start
The ignition voltage between 11-18 volts.
The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
The start-up engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30C (39-86F).
The start-up intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30C (39-86F).
The difference between the IAT and the ECT is less than or equal to 6C (10.8F)
The ambient air temperature is between 4-30C (39-86F).
Fuel level is between 15-85 percent
Without RPO LMG--The fuel alcohol content is less than 15 percent.
With RPO LMG--The fuel alcohol content is less than 87 percent.

Circuit/System Verification
Review the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status indicators with a scan tool. All I/M System Status indicators should report YES.

Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure
Important: Whenever the ignition is turned ON, ignition positive voltage is supplied to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heaters. After verifying the enable criteria, turn OFF the ignition for approximately 5 minutes to allow the sensors to cool before continuing with the test. Once the engine is started, do NOT turn the engine OFF for the remaining portion of the set procedure.
1. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above.
⇒ If the evaporative emission (EVAP) I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if available.
⇒ If the EVAP Service bay test is NOT available, it may take up to 6 drive cycles, with up to 17 hours between drive cycles, for the EVAP I/M System Status indicator to transition to YES.
⇒ If the O2S Heater System Status indicator displays NO, ensure that the ignition has been turned OFF for at least 10 hours.
2. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.
3. Turn OFF all accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc.
4. Start and idle the engine for at least 2 minutes and until 65C (149F) is achieved.
5. Run the engine for 6.5 minutes within the following conditions:
MAF parameter between 4-30 g/s
Engine speed steady between 1000-3000 RPM
6. Return the engine to idle for 1 minute.
7. Apply and hold brake pedal, and shift to Drive for automatic, or apply clutch pedal for manual and operate the vehicle within the following conditions for 2 minutes:
Depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor angle is more than 2 percent.
MAF signal between 15-30 g/s
RPM steady between 1200-2000 RPM

Important: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal during the idle period. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.

8. Release the accelerator pedal and shift the vehicle to Park for automatic, or Neutral and release clutch pedal for manual, and allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes.
9. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor Angle is more than 8 percent and return to idle, repeat 3 times.
10. Allow engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
11. Release the parking brake and drive vehicle at 24 km/h (15 mph) or slower for 2 minutes.
12. Continue to drive the vehicle for at least 5.5 miles between 45-112 km/h (28-70 mph) with the vehicle reaching at least 80 km/h (50 mph).
13. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 2 seconds. This will allow the vehicle to enter decel fuel cut-off.
14. Depress the accelerator pedal until the TP Sensor angle is increased 3-20 percent and maintain a safe speed for 1 minute.
15. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or in neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual, idle for 2 minutes.
16. Shift to Park for automatic and apply the parking brake, or neutral and release clutch pedal for manual.

Important: Do NOT disturb the vehicle or turn ON the ignition until told to do so. Disturbing the vehicle may invalidate this portion of the test.

17. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 minutes.
18. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.
⇒ If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO turn OFF the ignition for 17 hours, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 12-18 six more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run. Follow the Conditions for Running the DTC in order to set the EVAP I/M System Status indicator
⇒ If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator. Follow the Conditions for Running the DTC in order to set the associated status indicator.

Dif
03-10-10, 12:26 AM
Wow, sorry I didn't see your post sooner, but then again my experience probably wouldn't have helped.
That happened to me once, battery died, and when I went for a sticker, emissions were Blank.
Dealer just said, take it out and drive around like normal for 3 days.
Start it up, drive city ,.. highway, city etc each day and bring it back.
Did that, went back and Emissions passed.
Can't imagine going through everything in the info you posted.
Hope you're all set now though. :cool:

dixit
03-10-10, 12:36 AM
Well I put over 40 ignition cycles on it and over 400 miles and still could not get the EVAP to activate. These are original instructions for the Escalade.


Dixit

Dif
03-10-10, 01:29 AM
I agree with you about the original instructions, just seems like a lot since mine worked after a few days of normal start, drive and stop etc.
If yours still isn't working my guess is there's something more involved that's not right.
I wouldn't put it past the dealer doing something wrong :helpless:
Be interested to hear what you find out.
Good luck and hope you get things worked out.

dixit
03-10-10, 12:33 PM
I agree with the specific drive cycle being crazy. I noticed anytime the code is cleared of battery is disconnected you get 4 items that go into Not Ready status. Those 4 are the 2 O2 ones (one for heater, one for monitoring), EVAP, and Catalyst.

I can get the 3 (2 O2s and Catalyst) to active easily within 15mins of driving from a cold start as the generic GM drive cycles show. The EVAP one seems to be damn near impossible.

I got fed up and went to my emissions and turns out I passed. Why? Cause GA lets only 1 I/M indicator sit in the Not Ready. So for me I was good. I still dont have a EVAP in ready mode now after 60 ignition cycles and probably 600 miles. No error codes, so there is nothing wrong, it just seems this EVAP requires very specific conditions. Thats why they also mention to do a service bay EVAP test which the technician probably can knock out in a few minutes.

Dixit

tjm183
11-03-10, 02:11 PM
hello dixit
i'm having a similiar issue. i can not get the "evap monitior" to show ready on my OBD tool. background story: had engine light on, showed error code po420 (clogged catalytic converter) got them replaced the week before inspection. the shop cleared the codes, i went to inspection and the car failed because most sensors were in the "not ready state". so i discovered the gm drive cycle and have performed it twice and it worked on all sensors except the evap monitor whic i was able to read a month ago when i bought my obd tool to find out what the engine code was, so at least i know it worked at some point. but, just like you i can not seem to get it ready, i also asked the dealer if there was a specific drive cycle to test the evap monitor. the instructions you uploaded are very detailed and difficult? any other recommendations?
thank you
tjm

dixit
11-03-10, 06:42 PM
but, just like you i can not seem to get it ready, i also asked the dealer if there was a specific drive cycle to test the evap monitor. the instructions you uploaded are very detailed and difficult? any other recommendations?
thank you
tjm

The instructions are intended for a Service Tech to perform at the dealer, thats why they are so specific and detailed. Its intended for them to perform this if there is some emissions related issue that they are trying to fix and verify.

As my last post stated, I didnt get my EVAP to complete at the time as my state allows any 1 monitor to be in the incomplete status and still pass. If you state requires ALL monitors to complete, then you have no choice but to wait.

I did check about 2weeks after I passed emissions and the EVAP did finally kick, but it was 2weeks later. All I know is the monitor is only activately monitoring when the tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 level, anything more or less and the monitor doesnt monitor conditions to set the I/M status for that monitor.

So all I can suggest is just drive normally like you do (as I did which was all really just short city trips and maybe weekend 50mi hwy) and eventually it will kick on as long as you get no other engine code.

Dixit